2008 BMW 335d E91
Discussion
To your opening post. Pre-lci is not a bad bit.
Forgetting the fact that all the original engine line up in the e9x are superior in reliability and complexity i think time will be kinder to the pre-facelift.
I really don’t like the lci e9x. It might be its association with chocolate engines, but the pre-facelift is more edgy and classy in my opinion.
Forgetting the fact that all the original engine line up in the e9x are superior in reliability and complexity i think time will be kinder to the pre-facelift.
I really don’t like the lci e9x. It might be its association with chocolate engines, but the pre-facelift is more edgy and classy in my opinion.
Jakg said:
Todays job - fuel filter.
I removed the old one to find the new one I'd bought had the end broken off!
So I'm now waiting for another...
I removed the old one to find the new one I'd bought had the end broken off!
So I'm now waiting for another...
Round #2 was much quicker with the car jacked that little bit higher.
Jakg said:
I'd also been hearing a "whooshing" sound under acceleration - I presumed it was a vacuum leak but when I took the undertray off I could see the new boost hose had popped off.
The o-ring had somehow split
I worked out the problem was probably the "lip" on the intercooler needs to be fully removed (i'd just loosely cut a bit off the end) to ensure the connector is fully fitted.
I contacted MTC to get a new o-ring - they mentioned this regularly happens if you install without lubrication. Maybe it wouldn't happen so regularly if they included instructions (I originally used lubricant when installing btw).
Again, I needed the car now so I used the o-ring off the standard hose to re-assemble, but theres no longer a visible gap between the intercooler and connector
When I contacted MTC, I was advised the new O-Ring is 0.5mm bigger. Doesn't sound like a lot but it was really, really tricky to get enough force on to fully seat the connector, and then put the clip on to hold it in place.The o-ring had somehow split
I worked out the problem was probably the "lip" on the intercooler needs to be fully removed (i'd just loosely cut a bit off the end) to ensure the connector is fully fitted.
I contacted MTC to get a new o-ring - they mentioned this regularly happens if you install without lubrication. Maybe it wouldn't happen so regularly if they included instructions (I originally used lubricant when installing btw).
Again, I needed the car now so I used the o-ring off the standard hose to re-assemble, but theres no longer a visible gap between the intercooler and connector
Lotusgone said:
I don't half envy your pan roof.
If it's any consolation, it broke a couple of months ago and wouldn't close!I had to leave it open and keep an eye on it at work until I could get home to work out how to manually close it.
I've tried recalibrating it but without much success - the glass isn't sitting right.
My next job is take the glass out, see whats going on and cover it in the special BMW lube (which is like £10 a sachet).
For the time being it tilts (which, until I tried recalibrating, I had no idea it did), but doesn't slide.
I would warn any future owner that the sunroof lets in a lot of noise - even when closed. With the shade back the difference is noticeable.
Looks good from above, though
Edited by Jakg on Thursday 17th September 21:07
The drop links were I think the original part so I swapped them for some new Meyle HD ones.
Simple job, especially when it's all been apart recently.
Except for when you somehow drop one of the nuts inside the hub of the brake disc and need to take the caliper + disc off to remove it. Twice!
Note how the original was slightly bent.
Ball joints didn't have any play but did seem very loose off the car.
I've also realised pretty much every picture is of it in some state of repair, so here's one of the new stance.
Lowering was an unintended side effect but the ground clearance still seems ok.
I'm still undecided on how I feel about the suspension - the ride is less forgiving but clearly tauter.
But a more agile front end does exacerbate the fact it's a large heavy car, and you can feel the weight more.
That, combined unsupportive SE seats, poor mismatched tyres and autobox does make it feel a little confused sometimes.
Hopefully some more time in the car and a little more work and i'll change my mind!
Simple job, especially when it's all been apart recently.
Except for when you somehow drop one of the nuts inside the hub of the brake disc and need to take the caliper + disc off to remove it. Twice!
Note how the original was slightly bent.
Ball joints didn't have any play but did seem very loose off the car.
I've also realised pretty much every picture is of it in some state of repair, so here's one of the new stance.
Lowering was an unintended side effect but the ground clearance still seems ok.
I'm still undecided on how I feel about the suspension - the ride is less forgiving but clearly tauter.
But a more agile front end does exacerbate the fact it's a large heavy car, and you can feel the weight more.
That, combined unsupportive SE seats, poor mismatched tyres and autobox does make it feel a little confused sometimes.
Hopefully some more time in the car and a little more work and i'll change my mind!
scottos said:
I think there's a lot to be said for a well spec'd fast 'SE' spec, someones obviously wanted the performance and shove in the back but wanted to blend in and in this case had probably paid a premium for it!
That makes me feel better. 
Mine is a manual 55 plate E90 330iSE so has the earlier N52 engine that seems to be less troublesome than the later N53.
As it is Sparkling Graphite it certainly blends in - it's hard to find in a car park.
But it has the electric glass sunroof, power-fold mirrors and has been retro-fitted with a DAB head unit.
Jakg said:
That, combined unsupportive SE seats, poor mismatched tyres and autobox does make it feel a little confused sometimes.
Hopefully some more time in the car and a little more work and i'll change my mind!
I fitted a £100 M-Sport Alacantra seats/interior in my 2012 SE E91 easy fit and somewhat more exclusive than leather.Hopefully some more time in the car and a little more work and i'll change my mind!
Made the world of difference and so adjustable, the standard SE seats are/were terrible I don't miss them one bit - sold the whole lot for £15
DailyHack said:
I fitted a £100 M-Sport Alacantra seats/interior in my 2012 SE E91 easy fit and somewhat more exclusive than leather.
Made the world of difference and so adjustable, the standard SE seats are/were terrible I don't miss them one bit - sold the whole lot for £15
I'm on the lookout for some sports seats, the current ones are heated so I don't want to lose that which makes it a bit trickier.Made the world of difference and so adjustable, the standard SE seats are/were terrible I don't miss them one bit - sold the whole lot for £15
I did make a start on fitting some Corsa VXR Recaro seats but that was one project too far.
Over the last 2k miles it's averaged 37.6 MPG which is, well, pretty rubbish really.
I'd read all the horror stories on economy before I bought it but just couldn't believe a modern diesel could be that rubbish.
Good job that working from home / COVID has shrunk my mileage massively - I could probably afford to run a petrol estate instead now, but looking back I'm not sure what else would've fitted the bill without being way worse (i.e. S4).
Dad-wagon duties settling in well.
Bit of a pain getting the buggy in the back though - keep browsing eBay for F11 535ds...
I'd read all the horror stories on economy before I bought it but just couldn't believe a modern diesel could be that rubbish.
Good job that working from home / COVID has shrunk my mileage massively - I could probably afford to run a petrol estate instead now, but looking back I'm not sure what else would've fitted the bill without being way worse (i.e. S4).
Dad-wagon duties settling in well.
Bit of a pain getting the buggy in the back though - keep browsing eBay for F11 535ds...
Jakg said:
Over the last 2k miles it's averaged 37.6 MPG which is, well, pretty rubbish really.
I'd read all the horror stories on economy before I bought it but just couldn't believe a modern diesel could be that rubbish.
Good job that working from home / COVID has shrunk my mileage massively - I could probably afford to run a petrol estate instead now, but looking back I'm not sure what else would've fitted the bill without being way worse (i.e. S4).
Dad-wagon duties settling in well.
Bit of a pain getting the buggy in the back though - keep browsing eBay for F11 535ds...
Is that lots of urban driving or motorway? 37 isn't too bad, my single turbo 04 auto 530d struggles to average 30 mpg with 50/50 urban/motorway.I'd read all the horror stories on economy before I bought it but just couldn't believe a modern diesel could be that rubbish.
Good job that working from home / COVID has shrunk my mileage massively - I could probably afford to run a petrol estate instead now, but looking back I'm not sure what else would've fitted the bill without being way worse (i.e. S4).
Dad-wagon duties settling in well.
Bit of a pain getting the buggy in the back though - keep browsing eBay for F11 535ds...
Some boring updates.
The car came with 2018 maps and the seller suggested I should update as it was easy.
You can update via a USB stick and you can download the maps online, but they need a VIN-locked activation code (FSC) - unique to your car.
Unfortunately, I couldn't get this to work.
As I have a retrofitted CIC iDrive system, the car has two VINs - the VIN of the physical car, and the VIN of the CIC system (it's out of a 2011 Russian 320xd apparently!).
To allow these units to work together, some kind of patch has been installed to bypass the VIN check - and the side effect of this is whatever FSC code you use (even one I bought), it doesn't work.
I asked for help online, but I was disappointed to find very little freely available information - retrofitting these systems is a profitable business it seems, and instead you just get "PM me" comments and they couldn't even really help.
Someone eventually pointed me in the right direction, and using a piece of software you can temporarily bypass the FSC check in the car, enough to upgrade it.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2685...
Next problem - the USB port in the car (for media) has never worked.
I assumed it was a coding error, but it was eventually pointed out that when the CIC system was fitted, two existing modules - MULF & TCU - were removed, replaced with a Combox - a media unit that does Bluetooth etc.
These all live under the boot floor, where you might otherwise expect a spare tyre to live.
However, only the cables that went to the TCU were ever connnected to the Combox - the MULF cable (blue) wasn't connected.
It's not a straight swap and a changeover cable was made when it was first fitted (red wires).
Kufatec sell a plug&play retrofit loom, very expensive for something you could easily make yourself (£90!) but at the moment I want little hassle.
Unfortunately while it's plug and play, you need to connect to CANBUS - a little way further around the boot and theres some spare CAN wires, helpfully isolated as they are connected to the trailer socket wiring.
Not the neatest job as all the cables are too short, but connected up and it worked first time.
Unfortunately, it turns out USB is pretty useless - Bluetooth seems more reliable, and the USB port doesn't really have enough power to charge my phone.
You can use the BMW ConnectedApp to put destinations in which is handy though - but only when plugged in.
One benefit of a working USB port was the ability to upgrade the Combox software - again getting hold of the update was more hassle than it needed to be as the BMW website recognised neither of the VINs I had.
Don't worry, oily bits will be coming next time.
The car came with 2018 maps and the seller suggested I should update as it was easy.
You can update via a USB stick and you can download the maps online, but they need a VIN-locked activation code (FSC) - unique to your car.
Unfortunately, I couldn't get this to work.
As I have a retrofitted CIC iDrive system, the car has two VINs - the VIN of the physical car, and the VIN of the CIC system (it's out of a 2011 Russian 320xd apparently!).
To allow these units to work together, some kind of patch has been installed to bypass the VIN check - and the side effect of this is whatever FSC code you use (even one I bought), it doesn't work.
I asked for help online, but I was disappointed to find very little freely available information - retrofitting these systems is a profitable business it seems, and instead you just get "PM me" comments and they couldn't even really help.
Someone eventually pointed me in the right direction, and using a piece of software you can temporarily bypass the FSC check in the car, enough to upgrade it.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2685...
Next problem - the USB port in the car (for media) has never worked.
I assumed it was a coding error, but it was eventually pointed out that when the CIC system was fitted, two existing modules - MULF & TCU - were removed, replaced with a Combox - a media unit that does Bluetooth etc.
These all live under the boot floor, where you might otherwise expect a spare tyre to live.
However, only the cables that went to the TCU were ever connnected to the Combox - the MULF cable (blue) wasn't connected.
It's not a straight swap and a changeover cable was made when it was first fitted (red wires).
Kufatec sell a plug&play retrofit loom, very expensive for something you could easily make yourself (£90!) but at the moment I want little hassle.
Unfortunately while it's plug and play, you need to connect to CANBUS - a little way further around the boot and theres some spare CAN wires, helpfully isolated as they are connected to the trailer socket wiring.
Not the neatest job as all the cables are too short, but connected up and it worked first time.
Unfortunately, it turns out USB is pretty useless - Bluetooth seems more reliable, and the USB port doesn't really have enough power to charge my phone.
You can use the BMW ConnectedApp to put destinations in which is handy though - but only when plugged in.
One benefit of a working USB port was the ability to upgrade the Combox software - again getting hold of the update was more hassle than it needed to be as the BMW website recognised neither of the VINs I had.
Don't worry, oily bits will be coming next time.
Oily update.
After replacing the glowplug controller, I still had a two glowplugs showing a fault on INPA.
One frustration is that the engine is so far back, you have to remove quite a lot from the bulkhead to be able to remove it.
Some of the plastic you have to remove.
You also need to disconnect the battery to remove a power connector.
The battery is in the boot.
The boot release is electric.
Don't disconnect the battery and then close the boot!
I tried the emergency release but it didn't work - luckily I could reconnect the battery to get the boot open - after climbing through the car.
When removing the inlet manifold, I managed to drop a nut - couldn't be bothered to jack the car up and retrieve it so bought another.
I'd read about the glowplugs being difficult to remove so I gave the car a good run first to get it nice and hot.
I also used a torque wrench set to 30nm to remove them - the glowplugs have a snapping torque of 35nm so theoretically it's impossible to snap them this way.
Luckily they came out very easily.
They are very oily - I suspect either the inlet manifold gaskets or swirl flaps were leaking oil - but luckily this meant the threads were well lubricated!
Replaced all 6.
With the inlet manifold off I gave it a clean.
I also checked the swirl flap actuation but all good - not a fan of removing them.
Finally I replaced the gaskets - probably unnecessary but the old ones had hardened significantly.
All of the "collets" on the inlet manifold separated from the little rubber gaskets and I couldn't get them back together by hand.
I had a brainwave and a little clamp did the job
Remember the bolt I dropped during disassembly? Well I dropped it again so waiting for another!
With the engine in bits I also had a go at the vacuum lines.
The car has a twin sequential turbo setup, with quite a complicated pneumatic setup for operation.
It's plumbed together with vacuum hoses but they can deteriorate causing boost issues.
I didn't have any problems, but it seemed prudent to try tor replace them.
I only managed to get a couple done - I couldn't work out how disassemble the pressure converter assembly to go any further.
Of the hoses I looked at, the ones at the back with the pressure converter were fine - I think it's only the area around the turbos were things start to deteriorate - of those I managed to replace three of the four.
I don't think the old hoses were leaking, but they were chafed and oddly solid in the bends
Back together and after an eternity, it started - I was worried I'd done something wrong. I think the battery is on it's way out.
It still runs so I guess that's something!
After replacing the glowplug controller, I still had a two glowplugs showing a fault on INPA.
One frustration is that the engine is so far back, you have to remove quite a lot from the bulkhead to be able to remove it.
Some of the plastic you have to remove.
You also need to disconnect the battery to remove a power connector.
The battery is in the boot.
The boot release is electric.
Don't disconnect the battery and then close the boot!
I tried the emergency release but it didn't work - luckily I could reconnect the battery to get the boot open - after climbing through the car.
When removing the inlet manifold, I managed to drop a nut - couldn't be bothered to jack the car up and retrieve it so bought another.
I'd read about the glowplugs being difficult to remove so I gave the car a good run first to get it nice and hot.
I also used a torque wrench set to 30nm to remove them - the glowplugs have a snapping torque of 35nm so theoretically it's impossible to snap them this way.
Luckily they came out very easily.
They are very oily - I suspect either the inlet manifold gaskets or swirl flaps were leaking oil - but luckily this meant the threads were well lubricated!
Replaced all 6.
With the inlet manifold off I gave it a clean.
I also checked the swirl flap actuation but all good - not a fan of removing them.
Finally I replaced the gaskets - probably unnecessary but the old ones had hardened significantly.
All of the "collets" on the inlet manifold separated from the little rubber gaskets and I couldn't get them back together by hand.
I had a brainwave and a little clamp did the job
Remember the bolt I dropped during disassembly? Well I dropped it again so waiting for another!
With the engine in bits I also had a go at the vacuum lines.
The car has a twin sequential turbo setup, with quite a complicated pneumatic setup for operation.
It's plumbed together with vacuum hoses but they can deteriorate causing boost issues.
I didn't have any problems, but it seemed prudent to try tor replace them.
I only managed to get a couple done - I couldn't work out how disassemble the pressure converter assembly to go any further.
Of the hoses I looked at, the ones at the back with the pressure converter were fine - I think it's only the area around the turbos were things start to deteriorate - of those I managed to replace three of the four.
I don't think the old hoses were leaking, but they were chafed and oddly solid in the bends
Back together and after an eternity, it started - I was worried I'd done something wrong. I think the battery is on it's way out.
It still runs so I guess that's something!
Is there a reason to leave the swirl flaps in there? I bought the blanking kit for my F01 730d and upon removing the manifold etc. 2 of the 'flaps' were missing! One we found when blasting clean the manifold, the other we never recovered and has either passed through the engine (unlikely) or has lodged in the intercooler area where it hopefully remains!
First job if I buy another 30d will be to remove and blank off the swirl flaps. Its just not worth a rebuild for me. My engine has done a lot less miles thank yours also.
Nice car BTW, I think the SE is a better steer personally. More understated looks, cheaper to buy and that M Sport suspension (especially on RFT's) is too harsh for me!
First job if I buy another 30d will be to remove and blank off the swirl flaps. Its just not worth a rebuild for me. My engine has done a lot less miles thank yours also.
Nice car BTW, I think the SE is a better steer personally. More understated looks, cheaper to buy and that M Sport suspension (especially on RFT's) is too harsh for me!
dhibbert said:
Is there a reason to leave the swirl flaps in there? I bought the blanking kit for my F01 730d and upon removing the manifold etc. 2 of the 'flaps' were missing! One we found when blasting clean the manifold, the other we never recovered and has either passed through the engine (unlikely) or has lodged in the intercooler area where it hopefully remains!
I think some engines are more prone to swirl flap issues than others - I think the later ones were more reliable. Certainly I've not heard of a 335d killed by them.Plus, they are there for a reason - I know loads of people say they don't notice a difference, but BMW didn't put them there for fun and one of the TIS documents explains in more detail the benefits.
There's a similar argument about the DISA valve on the M54 engine as found in my Z4 - I'm not convinced there either!
Divisive opinion though, I know, and I can see why people do it.
If any of the flaps were damaged I might feel differently, though...
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