2001 Jaguar XJ8 Project
Discussion
Cheers for the kind words.
I'm glad I've started this really, as although it's quite a lot of work I've caught it before the rust has set in. I imagine a higher mileage/less cared for one could be an absolute heap if you start digging into it. I suspect cheap ones (and probably some pricier examples too!) could hide some real nightmares...
So far so good on this though. Thus far...!
I'm glad I've started this really, as although it's quite a lot of work I've caught it before the rust has set in. I imagine a higher mileage/less cared for one could be an absolute heap if you start digging into it. I suspect cheap ones (and probably some pricier examples too!) could hide some real nightmares...
So far so good on this though. Thus far...!
The next stage of the project has been completed... (or more properly, I have a few more photos to make a small update worthwhile).
I had to send the hubs away to be rebuild as a special tool is required to undo and refit the ABS rotor. It took a little while to be done, but finally picked them up. I also borrowed the spring compressor again, so that was most helpful.
So, hubs back:
20200925_104906 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
While waiting for the hubs to come back, I finished the wire brushing and the and undersealing of the rest of the car. For wire brushing, these have been my weapons of choice. Still a filthy job though...!
20200912_123032 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
20200912_123040 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Once the hubs were back, I fitted them and the upper wishbones to the subframe.
20200925_104917 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The next stage was to fit the springs - I confess this is one of my least favourite things to do on a car; especially when you have to compress the spring about 2/3 of its length...
20200928_145818 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
A lot of force is required, which felt a trifle uncomfortable at times...!
To help guide the spring pan into place, I made a couple of guide pins to screw in to the spring pan bolt holes. This worked quite well, but I was having to be careful not to bend them etc while compressing the spring.
20200928_160922 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Finally done, and ready for install - I'm glad there aren't anymore to do though to be honest!
20201001_124920 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I had to send the hubs away to be rebuild as a special tool is required to undo and refit the ABS rotor. It took a little while to be done, but finally picked them up. I also borrowed the spring compressor again, so that was most helpful.
So, hubs back:
20200925_104906 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrWhile waiting for the hubs to come back, I finished the wire brushing and the and undersealing of the rest of the car. For wire brushing, these have been my weapons of choice. Still a filthy job though...!
20200912_123032 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr20200912_123040 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrOnce the hubs were back, I fitted them and the upper wishbones to the subframe.
20200925_104917 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThe next stage was to fit the springs - I confess this is one of my least favourite things to do on a car; especially when you have to compress the spring about 2/3 of its length...
20200928_145818 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrA lot of force is required, which felt a trifle uncomfortable at times...!
To help guide the spring pan into place, I made a couple of guide pins to screw in to the spring pan bolt holes. This worked quite well, but I was having to be careful not to bend them etc while compressing the spring.
20200928_160922 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrFinally done, and ready for install - I'm glad there aren't anymore to do though to be honest!
20201001_124920 by Jon Fellows, on Flickrstickleback123 said:
Looks great. I'd forgotten how horrible dealing with those front springs is, I think the spring being curved so much makes it extra nail biting somehow.
I think you're right - the curve looks scary and also makes it harder to line everything up. I'm glad it's done!Another thrilling update on this long drawn out refresh...!
Finally, the subframe is back in! Sadly I have no pictures of the actual process as it was done entirely in the dark for those added difficulty points.
First thing was to prep the car. That merely involved putting the engine beam back on so that the long-reach axle stands could be removed. As these had picked up on the engine mount brackets, now they were gone I could fit the new (and expensive!) engine mounts.
20201007_141605 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I also had the shocks ready to go in as well.
The actual fitting didn't take very long at all. Two jacks, a bit of care with PAS pipes and the like and it was in. No worries... This morning I also fitted the steering rack which was a bit fiddly, although much easier once I fitted the bushes the right way round!
20201008_114644 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
20201008_114705 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Progress at last! The rest should be just bolting things on. Easy!
Finally, the subframe is back in! Sadly I have no pictures of the actual process as it was done entirely in the dark for those added difficulty points.
First thing was to prep the car. That merely involved putting the engine beam back on so that the long-reach axle stands could be removed. As these had picked up on the engine mount brackets, now they were gone I could fit the new (and expensive!) engine mounts.
20201007_141605 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI also had the shocks ready to go in as well.
The actual fitting didn't take very long at all. Two jacks, a bit of care with PAS pipes and the like and it was in. No worries... This morning I also fitted the steering rack which was a bit fiddly, although much easier once I fitted the bushes the right way round!
20201008_114644 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr20201008_114705 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrProgress at last! The rest should be just bolting things on. Easy!
Another update, hot on the heels of my last one - progress is rapid (plus I don't want to use my Mx5 in the rain/snow etc!)... Following on from attaching the steering rack, it is now a case of bolting on new parts or at the least freshly powder coated ones. Suddenly it looks like loads of work has happened!
The first thing I did was boring though, and just go round torqueing up the subframe bolts. That done, I bolted the engine mounts to the subframe from underneath. Boring picture:
20201009_094225 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Originally this hole had a bung in it, but I destroyed it getting it out. Apparently you can still get them though, and fairly cheaply. The tart in me insisted on getting new ones, so then they were fitted:
20201009_094603 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Next I fitted the ARB and new drop links. This was nice and simple and went on quickly. I also fitted track rod ends at the same time.
20201009_110537 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Unfortunately, the ARB has a couple of lateral locks pressed onto it, and these did not survive removal.
20200709_160817 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
20200709_160641 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
These cannot be bought, you need a brand new ARB - not doing that! I looked at having new plastic inserts made up etc, but then found you can buy bolt on lateral locks from Whiteline. These seem to be more usually fitted to aftermarket ARBs on Mx5s, Imprezas and the like. But now they are also on a XJ. I assume that now makes it a sports car, as they are bright anodised orange!
20201009_110934 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And fitted...
20201009_110947 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And lastly a shot showing off some progress at last - the garage is finally being cleared of new parts!
20201009_114059 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The first thing I did was boring though, and just go round torqueing up the subframe bolts. That done, I bolted the engine mounts to the subframe from underneath. Boring picture:
20201009_094225 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrOriginally this hole had a bung in it, but I destroyed it getting it out. Apparently you can still get them though, and fairly cheaply. The tart in me insisted on getting new ones, so then they were fitted:
20201009_094603 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrNext I fitted the ARB and new drop links. This was nice and simple and went on quickly. I also fitted track rod ends at the same time.
20201009_110537 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrUnfortunately, the ARB has a couple of lateral locks pressed onto it, and these did not survive removal.
20200709_160817 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr20200709_160641 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThese cannot be bought, you need a brand new ARB - not doing that! I looked at having new plastic inserts made up etc, but then found you can buy bolt on lateral locks from Whiteline. These seem to be more usually fitted to aftermarket ARBs on Mx5s, Imprezas and the like. But now they are also on a XJ. I assume that now makes it a sports car, as they are bright anodised orange!
20201009_110934 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd fitted...
20201009_110947 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd lastly a shot showing off some progress at last - the garage is finally being cleared of new parts!
20201009_114059 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrEdited by Lewis's Friend on Monday 12th October 07:46
So, a slightly overdue update for those brave souls who have kept following this refresh...
The reassembly of the front end continued and was nice and easy, with everything bolting up without drama.
20201014_150931 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
See, no dramas!
20201020_101442 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I then put the car down on ramps (midway through lowering/raising here with only the front up on ramps) and let it settle before torqueing up the suspension bolts.
20201016_151759 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I had feared that access would be a pain, but actually I could get a torque wrench to everything quite easily - the top wishbone fulcrum bolt had me embracing the wheel rather more closely than a well balanced person would enjoy, but nothing too difficult!
I then finished undersealing and treating the area that the axle stands had rested on as I couldn't before, and also sprayed cavity wax everywhere with a long lance before replacing all the floor bungs etc.
20201019_100602 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
That done, the only thing to do was get an alignment done. Easy you might think, and so it should be. However, in a weak moment I went to a Well-Known Chain of Fools to have the work done as they were local and I didn't want to drive far with dodgy alignment.
The alignment was done (with me unable to see what was happening, or with a print out of the results - broken printer) and I drove the Jag to work. It was lethal, pulled violently over every imperfection in the road and in the end I didn't go above 45mph on the way in! I then popped to another branch of the Well-Known Chain of Fools (who in fairness were much better) and asked them to recheck. This they couldn't do as they don't have an XJ8 in their system - odd as the original lot were quite happy to start adjusting things!
As a result, I went to another alignment place with a better reputation, and they adjusted everything properly with the result that it drives properly now! However, I will leave this 'before' printout for your viewing delight as obtained from the good alignment shop. This is how the Well-Know Chain of Fools left the car following their expert adjustments (note: the camber etc is only correct as through pure luck this didn't need adjusting - the settings I put in from my reference photos when I stripped everything down was still spot on!):
20201023_091148 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Still, it works now and was MOT'd successfully with no advisories so that is a win.
The reassembly of the front end continued and was nice and easy, with everything bolting up without drama.
20201014_150931 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrSee, no dramas!
20201020_101442 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI then put the car down on ramps (midway through lowering/raising here with only the front up on ramps) and let it settle before torqueing up the suspension bolts.
20201016_151759 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI had feared that access would be a pain, but actually I could get a torque wrench to everything quite easily - the top wishbone fulcrum bolt had me embracing the wheel rather more closely than a well balanced person would enjoy, but nothing too difficult!
I then finished undersealing and treating the area that the axle stands had rested on as I couldn't before, and also sprayed cavity wax everywhere with a long lance before replacing all the floor bungs etc.
20201019_100602 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThat done, the only thing to do was get an alignment done. Easy you might think, and so it should be. However, in a weak moment I went to a Well-Known Chain of Fools to have the work done as they were local and I didn't want to drive far with dodgy alignment.
The alignment was done (with me unable to see what was happening, or with a print out of the results - broken printer) and I drove the Jag to work. It was lethal, pulled violently over every imperfection in the road and in the end I didn't go above 45mph on the way in! I then popped to another branch of the Well-Known Chain of Fools (who in fairness were much better) and asked them to recheck. This they couldn't do as they don't have an XJ8 in their system - odd as the original lot were quite happy to start adjusting things!
As a result, I went to another alignment place with a better reputation, and they adjusted everything properly with the result that it drives properly now! However, I will leave this 'before' printout for your viewing delight as obtained from the good alignment shop. This is how the Well-Know Chain of Fools left the car following their expert adjustments (note: the camber etc is only correct as through pure luck this didn't need adjusting - the settings I put in from my reference photos when I stripped everything down was still spot on!):
20201023_091148 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrStill, it works now and was MOT'd successfully with no advisories so that is a win.
[quote=Lewis's Friend]So, a slightly overdue update for those brave souls who have kept following this refresh...
The reassembly of the front end continued and was nice and easy, with everything bolting up without drama.
20201014_150931 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Be sure to cable tie the PAS pipe to the subframe, stops the pipe rubbing through the alternator and you losing fluid.
The reassembly of the front end continued and was nice and easy, with everything bolting up without drama.
20201014_150931 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrBe sure to cable tie the PAS pipe to the subframe, stops the pipe rubbing through the alternator and you losing fluid.
Sidewaysteve]ewis's Friend said:
So, a slightly overdue update for those brave souls who have kept following this refresh...
The reassembly of the front end continued and was nice and easy, with everything bolting up without drama.
20201014_150931 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Be sure to cable tie the PAS pipe to the subframe, stops the pipe rubbing through the alternator and you losing fluid.
Nice one, cheers for that. Mine wasn't like that when I took it apart unfortunately. Should the cable tie be put round the subframe and the part of the PAS pipe with the rubber sleeve that's slightly curved?The reassembly of the front end continued and was nice and easy, with everything bolting up without drama.
20201014_150931 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrBe sure to cable tie the PAS pipe to the subframe, stops the pipe rubbing through the alternator and you losing fluid.
Another update to follow on quickly from the last. Having got everything back together, my wife and I took the Jag on holiday with us and put about 600miles on it.
20201103_210500 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Very nice it was too. However, the car wasn't entirely faultless. For reasons known only to itself, the boot release button decided to stop working. No big deal. Slightly more sadly, on the return journey and with only about 20miles to go I noticed a rather unpleasant background noise while travelling round the M25. At first I though a wheel bearing, but as I cam off the motorway and could hear better, after some experimenting, I found the noise changed with engine revs... Oh dear...
I got it home and it sounded awful! Hoping it was something on the accessory drive, I flicked the belt off and briefly started up again. Noise gone.
After letting things cool down a bit I then spun all the pulleys by hand, and found the AC compressor was totally seized. Not ideal, but better than a shot engine...
I've got hold of a used compressor from AutoReserve (who are a pleasure to deal with), and got a mobile AC guy to come over and suck all the refrigerant out of my system. Unfortunately there was less in the system than there should have been. A quick look though showed quite a major leak from the AC pressure switch, which is easy and fairly cheap to replace. That brings me on to this picture:
20201117_122516 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The AC compressor is a bit fiddly to remove, but nothing too bad happily. New one filled with oil and plumbed in with a new switch and o-ring installed. I tried draining the old compressor to measure the oil in it and found not a drop in there! Might explain the failure... I also have a new receiver/drier to go on, but I'll only fit that just before the regas.
20201112_162446 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Lastly was to fix the boot release. I stripped the boot down, and removed the switch, at which point it started working again and I can't make it fail!
20201107_124438 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
A cheap fix, but a bit of a waste of time, apart from the fact that the chrome boot plinth needs removing for access and in doing so it revealed the beginnings of rust around the mounting holes. Ah well, best to catch it early. So I ground off all of the rust, treated with Bilt Hamber and painted for protection.
20201107_124617 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Small improvements, but hopefully it should keep it looking good in the future.
20201103_210500 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrVery nice it was too. However, the car wasn't entirely faultless. For reasons known only to itself, the boot release button decided to stop working. No big deal. Slightly more sadly, on the return journey and with only about 20miles to go I noticed a rather unpleasant background noise while travelling round the M25. At first I though a wheel bearing, but as I cam off the motorway and could hear better, after some experimenting, I found the noise changed with engine revs... Oh dear...
I got it home and it sounded awful! Hoping it was something on the accessory drive, I flicked the belt off and briefly started up again. Noise gone.
After letting things cool down a bit I then spun all the pulleys by hand, and found the AC compressor was totally seized. Not ideal, but better than a shot engine...
I've got hold of a used compressor from AutoReserve (who are a pleasure to deal with), and got a mobile AC guy to come over and suck all the refrigerant out of my system. Unfortunately there was less in the system than there should have been. A quick look though showed quite a major leak from the AC pressure switch, which is easy and fairly cheap to replace. That brings me on to this picture:
20201117_122516 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThe AC compressor is a bit fiddly to remove, but nothing too bad happily. New one filled with oil and plumbed in with a new switch and o-ring installed. I tried draining the old compressor to measure the oil in it and found not a drop in there! Might explain the failure... I also have a new receiver/drier to go on, but I'll only fit that just before the regas.
20201112_162446 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrLastly was to fix the boot release. I stripped the boot down, and removed the switch, at which point it started working again and I can't make it fail!
20201107_124438 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrA cheap fix, but a bit of a waste of time, apart from the fact that the chrome boot plinth needs removing for access and in doing so it revealed the beginnings of rust around the mounting holes. Ah well, best to catch it early. So I ground off all of the rust, treated with Bilt Hamber and painted for protection.
20201107_124617 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrSmall improvements, but hopefully it should keep it looking good in the future.
With regards to the boot switch I would check the condition of the wires where they ‘bend’ in the boot, remove the plastic cover on the O/S hinge and the boot lid loom is cable tied around the gas strut, remove all the tape and look for broken wires. Best looking shape XJ IMO and a perfect car for munching the miles up.
Sidewaysteve said:
With regards to the boot switch I would check the condition of the wires where they ‘bend’ in the boot, remove the plastic cover on the O/S hinge and the boot lid loom is cable tied around the gas strut, remove all the tape and look for broken wires. Best looking shape XJ IMO and a perfect car for munching the miles up.
Sorry, I've only just seen this post - if it goes again I'll know where to look!Another update – following on from my AC compressor giving up the ghost, the Jag was due a little service and I decided while I was ordering parts to fix a couple of small issues I’d previously noted.
First of these was when I changed the spark plugs last year there was some oil build up in the plug wells. This seems to be not uncommon, especially if someone hasn’t torqued the bolts correctly. So I bought a cam cover gasket set and et about changing them. This isn’t particularly hard happily.
A mid gasket change shot:
20201117_151109 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The other little job I wanted to do was to change the thermostat as I’d noticed the car overcooled slightly. Sometimes on a run, the temp needle would only just reach the middle of the gauge. Given the way the gauge doesn’t really give a real temp readout, and there is a large range of temps that will show on the gauge as right in the middle I figured that if I wasn’t making it to properly warm at all there was a problem. And as winter is firmly here, the fault would be exacerbated. So, change the thermostat. Easy…..
It should be easy. Drain the coolant, remove a hose, undo three bolts and change it. But no…
The thermostat housing is plastic, and the rubbish captive nut on one of the bolts spun. Such joy! Happily, these housings seem to be known for being absolute rubbish and full aluminium housings are available for £40 delivered which seemed very reasonable to me (though annoying that there is a need for them).
Hateful thermostat housing:
20201201_102552 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Notice if you will the rear bolts holding the housing to the engine. They are a little tricky to get to without removing the inlet manifold. The best way I found is to sacrifice an 8mm spanner and bend it until you can get it to fit, then undo one flat at a time…
This bolt and its twin on the other side… Very annoying!
20201201_102600 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Housing removed:
20201201_102717 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And engine without the housing:
20201201_103149 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And this bolt/nut. Wretched thing!
20201204_122435 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Still, the aluminium housing came quickly and is good quality which was nice. Fitted easily and the new thermostat was put in:
20201204_144245 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Coolant replaced and bled with no issues, and happily no leaks and the overcooling problem is resolved. I can forgive problems working on cars if when the job is done it fixes the issue!
First of these was when I changed the spark plugs last year there was some oil build up in the plug wells. This seems to be not uncommon, especially if someone hasn’t torqued the bolts correctly. So I bought a cam cover gasket set and et about changing them. This isn’t particularly hard happily.
A mid gasket change shot:
20201117_151109 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThe other little job I wanted to do was to change the thermostat as I’d noticed the car overcooled slightly. Sometimes on a run, the temp needle would only just reach the middle of the gauge. Given the way the gauge doesn’t really give a real temp readout, and there is a large range of temps that will show on the gauge as right in the middle I figured that if I wasn’t making it to properly warm at all there was a problem. And as winter is firmly here, the fault would be exacerbated. So, change the thermostat. Easy…..
It should be easy. Drain the coolant, remove a hose, undo three bolts and change it. But no…
The thermostat housing is plastic, and the rubbish captive nut on one of the bolts spun. Such joy! Happily, these housings seem to be known for being absolute rubbish and full aluminium housings are available for £40 delivered which seemed very reasonable to me (though annoying that there is a need for them).
Hateful thermostat housing:
20201201_102552 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrNotice if you will the rear bolts holding the housing to the engine. They are a little tricky to get to without removing the inlet manifold. The best way I found is to sacrifice an 8mm spanner and bend it until you can get it to fit, then undo one flat at a time…
This bolt and its twin on the other side… Very annoying!
20201201_102600 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrHousing removed:
20201201_102717 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd engine without the housing:
20201201_103149 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd this bolt/nut. Wretched thing!
20201204_122435 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrStill, the aluminium housing came quickly and is good quality which was nice. Fitted easily and the new thermostat was put in:
20201204_144245 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrCoolant replaced and bled with no issues, and happily no leaks and the overcooling problem is resolved. I can forgive problems working on cars if when the job is done it fixes the issue!
stickleback123 said:
Nice jobs to get done and out of the way, I'd forgotten about those horrible bolts on the thermostat housing!
I notice your secondary chain tensioner is orange, aren't the later non failure prone tensioners white?
I noticed that too. I notice your secondary chain tensioner is orange, aren't the later non failure prone tensioners white?
The orange plastic ones are the first gen type, the second gen are a off white plastic which can also fail and the ones you really want to see are the third gen aluminum bodied type which are a err... sort of aluminum colour.
Jaguar steve said:
I noticed that too.
The orange plastic ones are the first gen type, the second gen are a off white plastic which can also fail and the ones you really want to see are the third gen aluminum bodied type which are a err... sort of aluminum colour.
They are on my list, though I had assumed they would be the second gen tensioners due to the year of the car?The orange plastic ones are the first gen type, the second gen are a off white plastic which can also fail and the ones you really want to see are the third gen aluminum bodied type which are a err... sort of aluminum colour.
Obviously not!
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