The £1k 4.3 V8 Lexus LS430
Discussion
STIfree said:
Not yet, now the big mechanical issues are sorted I'm happy to address the cosmetic stuff. I'm trying to work out what the best method of removing the flaking lacquer as it's properly thick. Wire wheel on a drill maybe? I also need to figure out wheres cheapest for rattle paint. Internet seems pricey and I'm a little reluctant to do a non-essential shop at Boyes or somewhere similar. I'm still on the lookout on FB market place for some 18's with tyres that would look nice, maybe OEM+ looking.
Not sure if you've sorted your wheels yet but I did my alloys the other week, got some U-pol etch primer, E-tech alloy wheel paint and U-pol lacquer from ebay. I'm not sure how good the e-tech paint is but if you're going to put good quality lacquer on afterwards it probably isn't as important as long as you get smooth coverage. U-pol stuff is spot on, I'd recommend it.I used 1x can of etch, 2x cans of silver and 2x cans of lacquer though my wheels are tiny skinny MR2 alloys so you might need a bit more for yours!
In terms of removing the paint it depends how patient you are, you'll get the best finish using sandpaper in various grades although it's terminally boring. I used a wire wheel to remove the bulk of the paint and in some places it's scored the metal, managed to sand out the worst of it but still visible if you look very closely. It depends what you're aiming for though, like you I didn't want to spend £200 having them refurbished on a £2k car and just wanted them to look better than the terrible condition they were in when I bought it.
toast boy said:
Not sure if you've sorted your wheels yet but I did my alloys the other week, got some U-pol etch primer, E-tech alloy wheel paint and U-pol lacquer from ebay. I'm not sure how good the e-tech paint is but if you're going to put good quality lacquer on afterwards it probably isn't as important as long as you get smooth coverage. U-pol stuff is spot on, I'd recommend it.
I used 1x can of etch, 2x cans of silver and 2x cans of lacquer though my wheels are tiny skinny MR2 alloys so you might need a bit more for yours!
In terms of removing the paint it depends how patient you are, you'll get the best finish using sandpaper in various grades although it's terminally boring. I used a wire wheel to remove the bulk of the paint and in some places it's scored the metal, managed to sand out the worst of it but still visible if you look very closely. It depends what you're aiming for though, like you I didn't want to spend £200 having them refurbished on a £2k car and just wanted them to look better than the terrible condition they were in when I bought it.
Great advice here, thanks! I think in the coming weeks I should end up buying some. (I've been hoping for an ideal set of aftermarket wheels to come up for sale at a bargain price, but it's looking unlikely)I used 1x can of etch, 2x cans of silver and 2x cans of lacquer though my wheels are tiny skinny MR2 alloys so you might need a bit more for yours!
In terms of removing the paint it depends how patient you are, you'll get the best finish using sandpaper in various grades although it's terminally boring. I used a wire wheel to remove the bulk of the paint and in some places it's scored the metal, managed to sand out the worst of it but still visible if you look very closely. It depends what you're aiming for though, like you I didn't want to spend £200 having them refurbished on a £2k car and just wanted them to look better than the terrible condition they were in when I bought it.
Medic-one said:
The amount of kit on that car, especially for that money is insane!
I'm jealous of the amount of buttons in the rear compartment!
There are more buttons and extras in the back of this car than the front most of my previous ones I'm jealous of the amount of buttons in the rear compartment!
ajprice said:
Could you get the wheel paint off with an acid or thinner as a spray on or bath?
I do have a tin of nitromors, but I'm not sure how comfortable I'd feel using it with the tyres still on the rim.Latest update -
Haven't been able to source the cause of the lost coolant. Took it for an hour or so's drive and came back and checked the rad but doesn't show any signs of leakage. Although there is this purply bit on the end, which is a similar colour to the coolant, but it wasn't showing any signs of being damp recently so maybe nothing.
Coolant hasn't dropped since the last episode so will just keep an eye on it. Driving from Teesside to Manchester later in the week so should give a good indication anything that I should sort prior to a trip over to Europe in July.
Managed to get some kind of fix on the factory sub that had blown. £5 on eBay for a replacement foam piece, glued it in place (easier said than done, pissing superglue worked better on my fingers than anything else).
Also, CDB1983, how you said this was a 10 minute job to take the seats out I'll never know! Maybe I'm just a retard but it was a right faff, made worse as I did it on a hot sunny day
Anyway, seems to have done the job somewhat. Still think that the speakers in my '08 Mondeo are x10 better mind you.
Also keep finding this message amusing. Who calls a sunroof this?
Got a copy of Toyota/Lexus Techsmart software and a cable the other day. Ebay job for £17, but it only seems to work on XP so I'll have to create some virtual PC to emulate XP on my windows 10. Again, something that sounds easier than I imagine it'll be.
Air horns, I'm still waiting on the relay turning up before I can find out what amazing tune it'll play. Hopefully that'll come in the next day or so.
Aircon needs regassing. I've never had a car done before, does the price depend on the size of the system? I'm hearing it's around £60, which I dont mind paying aslong as it's pressure tested for leaks before topped up. I really want the rear fridge to get working again! One thing though that's slowing me down with it, is I'm considering having the timing belt changed as I've no record of when it was last done, but not sure if that will cause the a/c system to be disconnected whilst doing so, anyone have a guess?
Finally a bunch of snaps from a drive out this evening -
STIfree said:
I do have a tin of nitromors, but I'm not sure how comfortable I'd feel using it with the tyres still on the rim.
Latest update -
Haven't been able to source the cause of the lost coolant. Took it for an hour or so's drive and came back and checked the rad but doesn't show any signs of leakage. Although there is this purply bit on the end, which is a similar colour to the coolant, but it wasn't showing any signs of being damp recently so maybe nothing.
Coolant hasn't dropped since the last episode so will just keep an eye on it. Driving from Teesside to Manchester later in the week so should give a good indication anything that I should sort prior to a trip over to Europe in July.
Managed to get some kind of fix on the factory sub that had blown. £5 on eBay for a replacement foam piece, glued it in place (easier said than done, pissing superglue worked better on my fingers than anything else).
Also, CDB1983, how you said this was a 10 minute job to take the seats out I'll never know! Maybe I'm just a retard but it was a right faff, made worse as I did it on a hot sunny day
Anyway, seems to have done the job somewhat. Still think that the speakers in my '08 Mondeo are x10 better mind you.
Also keep finding this message amusing. Who calls a sunroof this?
Got a copy of Toyota/Lexus Techsmart software and a cable the other day. Ebay job for £17, but it only seems to work on XP so I'll have to create some virtual PC to emulate XP on my windows 10. Again, something that sounds easier than I imagine it'll be.
Air horns, I'm still waiting on the relay turning up before I can find out what amazing tune it'll play. Hopefully that'll come in the next day or so.
Aircon needs regassing. I've never had a car done before, does the price depend on the size of the system? I'm hearing it's around £60, which I dont mind paying aslong as it's pressure tested for leaks before topped up. I really want the rear fridge to get working again! One thing though that's slowing me down with it, is I'm considering having the timing belt changed as I've no record of when it was last done, but not sure if that will cause the a/c system to be disconnected whilst doing so, anyone have a guess?
Finally a bunch of snaps from a drive out this evening -
Glad you managed mate, honestly it gets easier and quicker the more you do it, Was a bi weekly thing for me when I had coilovers as was constantly trying to get the settings right until I binned them in favour of OEM shocks and springs Latest update -
Haven't been able to source the cause of the lost coolant. Took it for an hour or so's drive and came back and checked the rad but doesn't show any signs of leakage. Although there is this purply bit on the end, which is a similar colour to the coolant, but it wasn't showing any signs of being damp recently so maybe nothing.
Coolant hasn't dropped since the last episode so will just keep an eye on it. Driving from Teesside to Manchester later in the week so should give a good indication anything that I should sort prior to a trip over to Europe in July.
Managed to get some kind of fix on the factory sub that had blown. £5 on eBay for a replacement foam piece, glued it in place (easier said than done, pissing superglue worked better on my fingers than anything else).
Also, CDB1983, how you said this was a 10 minute job to take the seats out I'll never know! Maybe I'm just a retard but it was a right faff, made worse as I did it on a hot sunny day
Anyway, seems to have done the job somewhat. Still think that the speakers in my '08 Mondeo are x10 better mind you.
Also keep finding this message amusing. Who calls a sunroof this?
Got a copy of Toyota/Lexus Techsmart software and a cable the other day. Ebay job for £17, but it only seems to work on XP so I'll have to create some virtual PC to emulate XP on my windows 10. Again, something that sounds easier than I imagine it'll be.
Air horns, I'm still waiting on the relay turning up before I can find out what amazing tune it'll play. Hopefully that'll come in the next day or so.
Aircon needs regassing. I've never had a car done before, does the price depend on the size of the system? I'm hearing it's around £60, which I dont mind paying aslong as it's pressure tested for leaks before topped up. I really want the rear fridge to get working again! One thing though that's slowing me down with it, is I'm considering having the timing belt changed as I've no record of when it was last done, but not sure if that will cause the a/c system to be disconnected whilst doing so, anyone have a guess?
Finally a bunch of snaps from a drive out this evening -
AC regass - apparently the pipes to the rear AC can corrode over time and release gas, hopefully it isn't this as they can be a pain to replace. (Other option is just capping them.and running without rear AC)
Subwoofer fix looks ace!
Great to see one of these old barges getting the love it deserves
STIfree said:
Got a copy of Toyota/Lexus Techsmart software and a cable the other day. Ebay job for £17, but it only seems to work on XP so I'll have to create some virtual PC to emulate XP on my windows 10. Again, something that sounds easier than I imagine it'll be.
Before you go to the hassle of creating a VM and so forth, worth trying this:When the program is installed, go to the install directory and find the .exe file. Right click and select the "compatibility" tab
Check the box for "Run in compatibility mode" and try selecting the earliest one you've got an option for. I only seem to have an option for Vista, YMMV.
Not saying it'll definitely work, but worth a go before you go to the faff of creating a new environment etc (if you *do* go down that route I've got an old Windows XP license key you can use!)
Just noticed your coolant comment, mine often sits around the minimum, always has done. I put it down to when they installed the LPG they must if have let a little bit escape. (The reducer uses the coolant to warm the gas up before injecting it) wouldn't worry too much. If you haven't already done so it's worth installing an aftermarket ATF cooler to prevent a potential strawberry milkshake of death scenario. £100 tops.
Usget said:
Before you go to the hassle of creating a VM and so forth, worth trying this:
When the program is installed, go to the install directory and find the .exe file. Right click and select the "compatibility" tab
Check the box for "Run in compatibility mode" and try selecting the earliest one you've got an option for. I only seem to have an option for Vista, YMMV.
Not saying it'll definitely work, but worth a go before you go to the faff of creating a new environment etc (if you *do* go down that route I've got an old Windows XP license key you can use!)
Thanks, I gave it a try but no luck. When the program is installed, go to the install directory and find the .exe file. Right click and select the "compatibility" tab
Check the box for "Run in compatibility mode" and try selecting the earliest one you've got an option for. I only seem to have an option for Vista, YMMV.
Not saying it'll definitely work, but worth a go before you go to the faff of creating a new environment etc (if you *do* go down that route I've got an old Windows XP license key you can use!)
Set up a virtual copy of XP on my laptop, problem is it doesn't recognise any of the USB slots so I can't get it to talk to the cable to the car. And I can't seem to get files from my laptop into the virtual system, bloody thing! A friend had an old Toughbook with Win 7 on it, managed to install everything properly on there but it still wouldn't talk to the car. I've given up for now as I'm not sure what the program can actually do and bought it because it sounded like it could be something useful in future.
CDB1983 said:
Just noticed your coolant comment, mine often sits around the minimum, always has done. I put it down to when they installed the LPG they must if have let a little bit escape. (The reducer uses the coolant to warm the gas up before injecting it) wouldn't worry too much. If you haven't already done so it's worth installing an aftermarket ATF cooler to prevent a potential strawberry milkshake of death scenario. £100 tops.
The coolant issue has been strange. I overfilled it after noticing it'd gone from max to min in like 200 miles. Then it sat overfilled for weeks. I've since had to drain out about 100ml so it would sit back at max. I'm not complaining, it would appear I've got no leak in the end!Aircon still hasn't been addressed. It damn hot in there, especially when the blowers only put out hot air if the cars been sat in the sun for a while. I'm also guessing the cooled seats work off the same aircon system? I couldn't spot any aircon lines (not sure exactly what they'd look like to be honest) that looked corroded under the rear of the car although there's plenty of other rusty stuff so will just have to take it to somewhere first and get them to pressure test it. I've no idea what price I should be looking at to refill the gas in it!
I've been a bit busy the past few weeks so haven't done much with the car except drive it. I bought another shed to tinker with so most of my free time has been spent with this -
I might make a thread on it.
I did get the airhorns sorted in the end. I was slightly disappointed to find out that they don't make a tune, but just one solid tone. Then again, when it sounds this loud I'm actually very happy
Can't wait for the first time I need to use them in anger!I also managed to get the car up on ramps last night to have a look under it.
So a recap, I have an EML on for "Catalyst system efficiency below threshold, bank 1 & 2". I can hear a blow from the exhaust somewhere near the front and because it was both sensors showing an error, I was thinking it the fault wasn't with the sensors but something else.
Sure enough, both flanges on the cats are rusty and have holes in them.
As I love a bodge fix that means I don't have to open my wallet, my friend had a tube of heat paste stuff for exhausts. Smeared a bit of that around the flange (that was a rude sentence) and so far it might have done the job. Well, I can still hear a blow, but the EML hasn't come back on in the 30 miles I've driven. If it stays off then happy days, one less thing to worry about.
Also noticed whilst under the car that both back boxes were crap. One had a hole in it, the other wasn't really attached to the rest of the exhaust. So in a cheap attempt to make more V8 noises and delete some rust, the backboxes were chopped off. I need to get welded up about 30cm of exhaust pipe just so it exits after the bumper.
I forgot to take a picture at the end. But just imagine the backbox is missing.
It's slightly louder, but inside the car, you can't hear a thing. Even at (German) motorway speeds, it's barely noticeable.
Video's aren't the best to transfer the sound. The standstill video (can't get it the right way up) is revved very high (a friend was in it) and rarely would sound like that. And the drive-by was in a small space. But still, better than nothing.
Couple of the tyres are getting close to the limit (nothing to do with the burnout, probably) so I've been on the look out for some new wheels and tyres.
Spotted a set of 5 LS400 wheels on Gumtree described as "lots of tread" for £75. Thought it's worth a punt as I had a long journey to Germany coming up and for piece of mind it'd be nice to have the tyres done.
It was only when I got there that I realised they were winter tyres. Oh well, not the worst but not really what I needed. Also it was 4 different brands, again not ideal. But with me travelling to Germany sometimes during winter where winter tyres are a legal requirement I thought for £75 I might as well take them.
Spent a few hours sanding them down and painting them back up. They're far from a good paint job, but they're far better than they were. Anyway, in the shed they go until winter.
Also prior to the long drive to Germany I thought it might be best to do an oil and filter change as I had no paperwork that indicated when it was last done. The oil was certainly dirty enough when I drained it!
Total cost for 4 litres of oil and a filter from Euro? £28.
Whilst the car was up in the air I took another look at the flange for the cats. It has been blowing (see previous post for picture) and last time it was up in the air it was filled with exhaust paste and it stopped it for a while and also took the EML off (lamba sensors) but after a day or so it blew through and EML came back on. A friend asked if I'd be likely to take the exhaust off at any point in the near future, I replied no to which he offered to weld the flange up to stop it blowing. He did so and although it has quietened the blow down, it is still blowing on the top side (which can't be reached without removing) and it still shows an EML. Maybe I'll give exhaust paste another go but in a more generous amount.
Also a quick snap of the back box delete situation. Looks a bit odd at the moment until I get some pipe to extend it to the bumper. At least you can't see the lack of exhaust tips when the cars on the ground.
Car all loaded up for the drive to Munich, surprisingly large boot that took more than I expected.
On the over-night ferry from Hull to Rotterdam, was joined by another barge.
The drive went pretty well. Only issue was half way through a message for "brake wear" popped up on the dash, assume its related to the rear pads that I changed last month. Not sure how or where you reset that issue.
I ran out of LPG gas after about 200 miles and found the next problem. German LPG pumps are different to UK pumps. An adaptor is required, ordered off Amazon for £15.
Arrived with an average MPG over the 680 miles of 25.6MPG. Which I'm fairly happy about as I was expecting lower 20's but I think doing 400 miles on petrol improved that figure.
I'm also happy because the last 2 hours of the journey were done on mostly derestricted autobahns where the average speed was around 110-120mph.
It did also get up to a GPS indicated 138mph before slowing for traffic. If I get the right conditions I might see how far she'll go, I think 150 could be possible.
Had the car parked up just down the road from BMW HQ for a few days in the heat.
I didn't notice until I'd driven an hour away and parked up that my number plate was no longer on the car. Not great.
I recalled noticing the front plate looked like it was 2 glued together at some point so investigated and found that indeed, that was the case.
For a temp measure I taped that plate on the rear so I wasn't so obvious.
Luckily once I returned to where the car had been parked previously I found the plate on the floor with not very sticky, sticky pads. Guess the heat got to them. Fitted back on with some new pads and hopefully, it'll stay on til I'm back in blighty.
Spotted a set of 5 LS400 wheels on Gumtree described as "lots of tread" for £75. Thought it's worth a punt as I had a long journey to Germany coming up and for piece of mind it'd be nice to have the tyres done.
It was only when I got there that I realised they were winter tyres. Oh well, not the worst but not really what I needed. Also it was 4 different brands, again not ideal. But with me travelling to Germany sometimes during winter where winter tyres are a legal requirement I thought for £75 I might as well take them.
Spent a few hours sanding them down and painting them back up. They're far from a good paint job, but they're far better than they were. Anyway, in the shed they go until winter.
Also prior to the long drive to Germany I thought it might be best to do an oil and filter change as I had no paperwork that indicated when it was last done. The oil was certainly dirty enough when I drained it!
Total cost for 4 litres of oil and a filter from Euro? £28.
Whilst the car was up in the air I took another look at the flange for the cats. It has been blowing (see previous post for picture) and last time it was up in the air it was filled with exhaust paste and it stopped it for a while and also took the EML off (lamba sensors) but after a day or so it blew through and EML came back on. A friend asked if I'd be likely to take the exhaust off at any point in the near future, I replied no to which he offered to weld the flange up to stop it blowing. He did so and although it has quietened the blow down, it is still blowing on the top side (which can't be reached without removing) and it still shows an EML. Maybe I'll give exhaust paste another go but in a more generous amount.
Also a quick snap of the back box delete situation. Looks a bit odd at the moment until I get some pipe to extend it to the bumper. At least you can't see the lack of exhaust tips when the cars on the ground.
Car all loaded up for the drive to Munich, surprisingly large boot that took more than I expected.
On the over-night ferry from Hull to Rotterdam, was joined by another barge.
The drive went pretty well. Only issue was half way through a message for "brake wear" popped up on the dash, assume its related to the rear pads that I changed last month. Not sure how or where you reset that issue.
I ran out of LPG gas after about 200 miles and found the next problem. German LPG pumps are different to UK pumps. An adaptor is required, ordered off Amazon for £15.
Arrived with an average MPG over the 680 miles of 25.6MPG. Which I'm fairly happy about as I was expecting lower 20's but I think doing 400 miles on petrol improved that figure.
I'm also happy because the last 2 hours of the journey were done on mostly derestricted autobahns where the average speed was around 110-120mph.
It did also get up to a GPS indicated 138mph before slowing for traffic. If I get the right conditions I might see how far she'll go, I think 150 could be possible.
Had the car parked up just down the road from BMW HQ for a few days in the heat.
I didn't notice until I'd driven an hour away and parked up that my number plate was no longer on the car. Not great.
I recalled noticing the front plate looked like it was 2 glued together at some point so investigated and found that indeed, that was the case.
For a temp measure I taped that plate on the rear so I wasn't so obvious.
Luckily once I returned to where the car had been parked previously I found the plate on the floor with not very sticky, sticky pads. Guess the heat got to them. Fitted back on with some new pads and hopefully, it'll stay on til I'm back in blighty.
king looks like it's very pleasant. STIfree said:
Set up a virtual copy of XP on my laptop, problem is it doesn't recognise any of the USB slots so I can't get it to talk to the cable to the car. And I can't seem to get files from my laptop into the virtual system, bloody thing! A friend had an old Toughbook with Win 7 on it, managed to install everything properly on there but it still wouldn't talk to the car. I've given up for now as I'm not sure what the program can actually do and bought it because it sounded like it could be something useful in future.
I used this VM that someone had already set up. I could not get it to work from within Windows 10 or Windows 7 but this worked perfectly.http://blog.obdii365.com/2019/11/04/download-techs...
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