The Elan M100 "Doer Upper"
Discussion
CallMeLegend said:
I've recently had several things printed in SLS nylon which are excellent. The one caveat I would have is that it's quite porous and difficult to get a good primer finish on, you really do need to do about a dozen incredibly thin coats otherwise it just chips off. Not sure if it's the same for the carbon stuff. HM-2 said:
CallMeLegend said:
I've recently had several things printed in SLS nylon which are excellent. The one caveat I would have is that it's quite porous and difficult to get a good primer finish on, you really do need to do about a dozen incredibly thin coats otherwise it just chips off. Not sure if it's the same for the carbon stuff. shalmaneser said:
Excellent work here!
Whats the condition of the running gear like? Is it a rolling resto or will you take it off the road and recondition it all?
Great job with the door card by your daughter!
Once the brakes (namely the handbrake) are sorted I think it's time to pop it in for an MOT & it will be a rolling restoration, once passed.Whats the condition of the running gear like? Is it a rolling resto or will you take it off the road and recondition it all?
Great job with the door card by your daughter!
Some new hardware for the refurbished caliper, waiting on the Copper washers & the nipple dust cap.
Stainless banjo in place of the steel one.
A new bleed nipple, sadly m10 x 1.5 in stainless appear to be like hens teeth, so this is a plated one.
Here's an example of what the caliper looks like after paint stripping & 12 hrs after Deox-C, flash rust sets in very quickly. It will have a very quick bath in Deox-C tomorrow (5mins is all it takes to clean off the flash rust, dry it & paint as quickly as possible afterwards.
I need to do something tidier about the heat shielding around the cone filter too. I may even revert back to the original airbox, source from a Montego I believe.
This will get some attention in good time. Lots of tidying required.
There's also something fishy going on with the wiring behind the dash.
Stainless banjo in place of the steel one.
A new bleed nipple, sadly m10 x 1.5 in stainless appear to be like hens teeth, so this is a plated one.
Here's an example of what the caliper looks like after paint stripping & 12 hrs after Deox-C, flash rust sets in very quickly. It will have a very quick bath in Deox-C tomorrow (5mins is all it takes to clean off the flash rust, dry it & paint as quickly as possible afterwards.
I need to do something tidier about the heat shielding around the cone filter too. I may even revert back to the original airbox, source from a Montego I believe.
This will get some attention in good time. Lots of tidying required.
There's also something fishy going on with the wiring behind the dash.
Edited by CallMeLegend on Tuesday 14th July 22:11
There is a guide bush that's a super tight fit over the piston I've been struggling to fit. One kind member of the Elan M100 Owners & Enthusiasts Facebook group had a tool made specifically for the job, he no longer needed it as has non standard rear calipers now, so he kindly swapped it for a few beer tokens.
Very simple tapered part, with a pusher sleeve & bingo, worked first time.
Very simple tapered part, with a pusher sleeve & bingo, worked first time.
....and then there were two.
Cannot for the life of me see how 45Nm on the handbrake lever arm nut is correct, backed it off until the spring did it;s job & Loctited it.
Annoyingly the second one appears to have slightly more paint on it, so is glossier, but once they are on different sides of the car you'll never notice.
Cannot for the life of me see how 45Nm on the handbrake lever arm nut is correct, backed it off until the spring did it;s job & Loctited it.
Annoyingly the second one appears to have slightly more paint on it, so is glossier, but once they are on different sides of the car you'll never notice.
After a pretty fruitless search for door lock escutcheons that were a price I was happy with (£40 each is a bit steep) I took matters into my own hands.
I measured, modelled in CAD & had 3d printed in carbon fibre reinforced SLS a replacement to see if it was a viable proposition.
It is. A minor change to the profile is required to get it sitting down slightly better, but I happy overall. The best bit if I need another I just hit the online print button & it arrives in the post.
I'm convinced given the vast range of materials the 3d printing will help keep many a classic car on the road in the future. I addition to the plastics the metal printing technology is improving beyond belief, steel, aluminium & Ti can all be readily printed with mechanical properties matching a die cast part of the same material.
I measured, modelled in CAD & had 3d printed in carbon fibre reinforced SLS a replacement to see if it was a viable proposition.
It is. A minor change to the profile is required to get it sitting down slightly better, but I happy overall. The best bit if I need another I just hit the online print button & it arrives in the post.
I'm convinced given the vast range of materials the 3d printing will help keep many a classic car on the road in the future. I addition to the plastics the metal printing technology is improving beyond belief, steel, aluminium & Ti can all be readily printed with mechanical properties matching a die cast part of the same material.
Edited by CallMeLegend on Friday 17th July 11:45
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