The shediest ML in the WORLD (possibly)
Discussion
C70R said:
Agreed.
I suspect it was one of those situations where it felt harder to avoid buying it (although that's probably what should have happened), so the OP almost talked himself into it.
I can't wait to see the rust report on the first MOT. There's no way that thing isn't packing some serious structural rot.
My ML looks like that on the outside but structurally is absolutely fine. Just coming up to two years problem-free.I suspect it was one of those situations where it felt harder to avoid buying it (although that's probably what should have happened), so the OP almost talked himself into it.
I can't wait to see the rust report on the first MOT. There's no way that thing isn't packing some serious structural rot.
Structurally it’s not much like a CLK as it has a chassis underneath. That’s quite an important difference.
Jimmy Recard said:
My ML looks like that on the outside but structurally is absolutely fine. Just coming up to two years problem-free.
Structurally it’s not much like a CLK as it has a chassis underneath. That’s quite an important difference.
How do you find the ride on yours? Mines very hard and crashy going over speed bumps.Structurally it’s not much like a CLK as it has a chassis underneath. That’s quite an important difference.
rich12 said:
How do you find the ride on yours? Mines very hard and crashy going over speed bumps.
Soft and wobbly, so very different to your experienceMine is on 17” wheels, but I think all of them have pretty high profile tyres
They’re a bit jiggly by nature and you’ll get a bit of a shock hitting a speed bump at pace because the springs and dampers are short (the top of them is around the bottom of the engine)
Edited by Jimmy Recard on Wednesday 17th June 09:04
I like this a lot.
However threads like this make me miss living in the UK.
The cheapest ML500 within 60 miles of me is a 2002 with a rh front wing that isn’t quite the same shade of silver as the rest of the car for $4999, so about 2 and a half thousand pounds.
Next cheapest is a 2005 for $8,500.
Although fuel is about 50p a litre and cars don’t rust, so not all bad I suppose.
However threads like this make me miss living in the UK.
The cheapest ML500 within 60 miles of me is a 2002 with a rh front wing that isn’t quite the same shade of silver as the rest of the car for $4999, so about 2 and a half thousand pounds.
Next cheapest is a 2005 for $8,500.
Although fuel is about 50p a litre and cars don’t rust, so not all bad I suppose.
Jimmy Recard said:
Have you tried bouncing it by pushing down hard on the front wing to see if the damper is controlling it properly? Bad dampers are very possible
Just give it a sharp push down on each front wing and see if it continues to bounce on its spring more than once. Mine doesn’t
I don't want to put a hand shaped hole in the wing haha.Just give it a sharp push down on each front wing and see if it continues to bounce on its spring more than once. Mine doesn’t
rich12 said:
Jimmy Recard said:
My ML looks like that on the outside but structurally is absolutely fine. Just coming up to two years problem-free.
Structurally it’s not much like a CLK as it has a chassis underneath. That’s quite an important difference.
How do you find the ride on yours? Mines very hard and crashy going over speed bumps.Structurally it’s not much like a CLK as it has a chassis underneath. That’s quite an important difference.
rich12 said:
Jimmy Recard said:
Have you tried bouncing it by pushing down hard on the front wing to see if the damper is controlling it properly? Bad dampers are very possible
Just give it a sharp push down on each front wing and see if it continues to bounce on its spring more than once. Mine doesn’t
I don't want to put a hand shaped hole in the wing haha.Just give it a sharp push down on each front wing and see if it continues to bounce on its spring more than once. Mine doesn’t
Slow said:
rich12][/url said:
Looks solid to me. Get much newer cars in much worse state up here in the north of Scotland.
I agree that the underside doesn't look too bad at all. Ideally you would get a couple of cans of Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 or UB, crawl underneath and spraycoat the underside. Less than an hour to do a decent job.
rich12 said:
Operation 'f
k you rust' is complete!
Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it's come out.
By the time I actually drive it again, it probably won't start but atleast the rust is hidden.
Looks quite respectable, what was the process, rust kill, fill, prime paint or get the worst off and run a black marker pen over it ?k you rust' is complete!Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it's come out.
By the time I actually drive it again, it probably won't start but atleast the rust is hidden.
Edited by rich12 on Tuesday 16th June 15:50
Done both over the years, as long as it doesnt draw the eye its all good.
J4CKO said:
Looks quite respectable, what was the process, rust kill, fill, prime paint or get the worst off and run a black marker pen over it ?
Done both over the years, as long as it doesnt draw the eye its all good.
Scraper, screwdriver, wire brush and hammerite in the end. All visible parts were then painted in the remainder bit of proper mercedes paint I had. Done both over the years, as long as it doesnt draw the eye its all good.
Still need to lacquer the visible points at some point but i'm looking out of my office window staring at a very big black cloud..
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