The shediest ML in the WORLD (possibly)
Discussion
Going to an lpg place tomorrow to get them to look at why the system is t working correctly.
In other news, I need to attach something to the exhaust as it drones far too much and doing a 300 mile round trip every other weekend isn't going to be fun.
Can't seem to find a box/silencer etc anywhere.
Any cheapo solutions?
In other news, I need to attach something to the exhaust as it drones far too much and doing a 300 mile round trip every other weekend isn't going to be fun.
Can't seem to find a box/silencer etc anywhere.
Any cheapo solutions?
Slow said:
Universal clamp on backbox and coat hanger wire.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264375341387
Something like this, just see what size your pipes are.
A backbox in the middle of the car? Would that work?https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264375341387
Something like this, just see what size your pipes are.
Slow said:
Then as long as there is space to fit backboxes in there then its fine. Dont get like a 3" into 5" type of box or the noise wont get better.
Yeh they'll be space as the centre box I took out was probably about 750mm long. It's 2 pipes so I'll have to measure the distance between the 2 and try and find a way to buy one that has 2 in one out.
Is a silencer a silencer? Found one for a ml350 but no idea how they'd be different.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274339487329
(That's too much to spend by the way)
Edited by rich12 on Monday 27th July 21:43
sbk1972 said:
Nope. 270 / 500 / 55 use a fan module and separate fan. The other petrol engines have dual fans.
The fan module is fed `CAN` information meaning it's just not on or off but works at different speeds depending on heat / temp. If you stand at the front, look down, `behind the rad, left hand side, at the top, you will see some wires under a cover. This is where the CAN connects to the module, and + and - from the battery
I had to replace my fan module (£100 on ebay) as the previous owner cut it out and replaced it with a probe / relay. It's feed by a 100amp at the battery terminal, little square fuse.
If the fan module fails then it defaults to `on` at top speed. However it it fails due to no power then you're buggered but a light should some on the dash. orange / rad pic. Switch your AC on and the fan should switch on.
I have a secondary fan on mine. I installed a `push` fan on the front of the rad, and a Davies Craig probe / relay setup. This means that Ive set the probe / relay to go off at 84' (rad temp). This helps cooling and has saved me twice when the fan module stopped working.
i could bore you for hours on the cooling system on these MLs :-) You also have a secondary water pump. Look at the engine, right hand side of battery, there is a boosch electric pump. Mine was siezed when I brought mine. 80 quid on amazon. This continues to pump water when the engine is switched off to prevent hot spots. IT also helps cooling. check yours, bet its siezed. Switch car off and feel it, it should be buzzing away.
Simon
Hi Simon, The fan module is fed `CAN` information meaning it's just not on or off but works at different speeds depending on heat / temp. If you stand at the front, look down, `behind the rad, left hand side, at the top, you will see some wires under a cover. This is where the CAN connects to the module, and + and - from the battery
I had to replace my fan module (£100 on ebay) as the previous owner cut it out and replaced it with a probe / relay. It's feed by a 100amp at the battery terminal, little square fuse.
If the fan module fails then it defaults to `on` at top speed. However it it fails due to no power then you're buggered but a light should some on the dash. orange / rad pic. Switch your AC on and the fan should switch on.
I have a secondary fan on mine. I installed a `push` fan on the front of the rad, and a Davies Craig probe / relay setup. This means that Ive set the probe / relay to go off at 84' (rad temp). This helps cooling and has saved me twice when the fan module stopped working.
i could bore you for hours on the cooling system on these MLs :-) You also have a secondary water pump. Look at the engine, right hand side of battery, there is a boosch electric pump. Mine was siezed when I brought mine. 80 quid on amazon. This continues to pump water when the engine is switched off to prevent hot spots. IT also helps cooling. check yours, bet its siezed. Switch car off and feel it, it should be buzzing away.
Simon
Edited by sbk1972 on Thursday 30th July 08:40
Great info.
So just to clarify, my car is not missing 2 smaller fans?
Do you know what temp the main fan should come on at? I left it running after changing the coolant to about 90 and the fan still wasn't on.
sbk1972 said:
Hi
Your car doesnt have front dual fans.
Depends on whether AC is on, or off. Using my secondary probe / relay, which has a LCD screen on it. My OEM fan comes on at 84' at the Rad. This is rad temp which is about 10' cooler than the thermostat housing sensor, so 94/95.
The dashboard temp gauge does move up and down. At first this worried me as coming from my BMW m3 where the temp gauge stayed mid way all the time.
Take a look on this US forum. It pretty much has every question you will ever ask, with manuals, etc.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class.35/
Thank you.Your car doesnt have front dual fans.
Depends on whether AC is on, or off. Using my secondary probe / relay, which has a LCD screen on it. My OEM fan comes on at 84' at the Rad. This is rad temp which is about 10' cooler than the thermostat housing sensor, so 94/95.
The dashboard temp gauge does move up and down. At first this worried me as coming from my BMW m3 where the temp gauge stayed mid way all the time.
Take a look on this US forum. It pretty much has every question you will ever ask, with manuals, etc.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class.35/
Seems changing the coolant didn't help my little LPG dilemma so perhaps it is the reducer/vaporiser.
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