The shediest ML in the WORLD (possibly)
Discussion
J4CKO said:
So no oil of any description left in it ?
Only joking, I reckon you will make a half decent car out of that, £700, worth that for some entertainment, the cost of the slightly different interior wood or stitching on a new one.
Only joking, I reckon you will make a half decent car out of that, £700, worth that for some entertainment, the cost of the slightly different interior wood or stitching on a new one.
I was shocked though. Really did expect to see puddles of oil.
Quick q for the more mechanically minded...
The brakes are really squeaky when braking normally (ie not if I slam my foot down).
The discs and pads are fine so is it likely to be a case of needing more copper grease on the pads?
rich12 said:
Tommie38 said:
Good effort OP!
Looks like a fun project. The M113 500 is a brilliant engine and, bar a few oil leaks, should be fine. Gearboxes are good too, again keep an eye on the level.
The rust? Pah, par for the course with a Merc that age. Better than it having a dodgy respray and being done for £2,500...
Best result for me was waking up Sunday morning, looking under the car and not a single spot of oil.. Looks like a fun project. The M113 500 is a brilliant engine and, bar a few oil leaks, should be fine. Gearboxes are good too, again keep an eye on the level.
The rust? Pah, par for the course with a Merc that age. Better than it having a dodgy respray and being done for £2,500...
Took the cover off yesterday and looks pretty dry.
Gearbox oil a big job?
To be honest I’d probably leave that one if it is shifting properly. Any issues I’d start by checking the oil level (you need to buy a dipstick) and then topping up.
Excellent Thread !! :-)
I have a 2003 ML55. In Black. So a virtual `fist pump`.
Rusty hatch is common, mine was similar when I brought my 4 years ago. Luckerly black smoothrite is the same colour as I use that to touch around wheel arches etc. I use a halfords gloss black for above the sill level.
Owning one these things is a joy if you accept regular maintenance and are up for a challenge by doing it yourself.
ML500 is near identical to ML55 engine, so things to be aware of :-
Cooling fan - the module goes wrong / fuse at the battery blows so be aware and now and then check that the fan comes on.
Washer fluid tank cracks at top and leaks to a certain level.
BAS errors on the dash are normally a brake switch replacement.
I replaced my shocks, fronts were easy, rears were hard. Had to unbolt the body to give me a inch more clearance to get to bolts.
Spare keys take 6/10 weeks from Mercedes to order - 200
Sunroof drains block, or disconnect meaning water runs down the A pillars over various ecus. I have to reconnect mine, then remove both wings to clear out the drains which are around both front foot wells.
Immobiliser ring, around the key ignition, can play up and show start errors
If your low range light flashes around 16 times on start then you then to give the low range a go. these motors get stuck and need cycling. Put in N, switch on / off the low range.
Ive pretty much over service mine now. I regularly do the gearbox filter / oil, diffs, ive install a secondary cooling fan system on mine as Ive had 1 fan module go, and poor connection issues which could of resulted in the engine over heating. so I have my own one to `catch` this.
I had endless rattles which took a year to fix each one so now my car is quiettttttt :-)
i love my truck. I was looking at getting a ML63 original for 16K. However I say my one for £4K. came with new tyres, private plate, 20inch alloys and had 89K miles. I get 85% of the fun at 25% of the cost.
There is a tremendous US ML forum you need to join. Packed with manuals, pdfs, and experienced owners. There is never a problem or code I upload to the group which someone hasnt had and fixed. benzworld.org
Simon
I
I have a 2003 ML55. In Black. So a virtual `fist pump`.
Rusty hatch is common, mine was similar when I brought my 4 years ago. Luckerly black smoothrite is the same colour as I use that to touch around wheel arches etc. I use a halfords gloss black for above the sill level.
Owning one these things is a joy if you accept regular maintenance and are up for a challenge by doing it yourself.
ML500 is near identical to ML55 engine, so things to be aware of :-
Cooling fan - the module goes wrong / fuse at the battery blows so be aware and now and then check that the fan comes on.
Washer fluid tank cracks at top and leaks to a certain level.
BAS errors on the dash are normally a brake switch replacement.
I replaced my shocks, fronts were easy, rears were hard. Had to unbolt the body to give me a inch more clearance to get to bolts.
Spare keys take 6/10 weeks from Mercedes to order - 200
Sunroof drains block, or disconnect meaning water runs down the A pillars over various ecus. I have to reconnect mine, then remove both wings to clear out the drains which are around both front foot wells.
Immobiliser ring, around the key ignition, can play up and show start errors
If your low range light flashes around 16 times on start then you then to give the low range a go. these motors get stuck and need cycling. Put in N, switch on / off the low range.
Ive pretty much over service mine now. I regularly do the gearbox filter / oil, diffs, ive install a secondary cooling fan system on mine as Ive had 1 fan module go, and poor connection issues which could of resulted in the engine over heating. so I have my own one to `catch` this.
I had endless rattles which took a year to fix each one so now my car is quiettttttt :-)
i love my truck. I was looking at getting a ML63 original for 16K. However I say my one for £4K. came with new tyres, private plate, 20inch alloys and had 89K miles. I get 85% of the fun at 25% of the cost.
There is a tremendous US ML forum you need to join. Packed with manuals, pdfs, and experienced owners. There is never a problem or code I upload to the group which someone hasnt had and fixed. benzworld.org
Simon
I
sbk1972 said:
Excellent Thread !! :-)
I have a 2003 ML55. In Black. So a virtual `fist pump`.
Rusty hatch is common, mine was similar when I brought my 4 years ago. Luckerly black smoothrite is the same colour as I use that to touch around wheel arches etc. I use a halfords gloss black for above the sill level.
Owning one these things is a joy if you accept regular maintenance and are up for a challenge by doing it yourself.
ML500 is near identical to ML55 engine, so things to be aware of :-
Cooling fan - the module goes wrong / fuse at the battery blows so be aware and now and then check that the fan comes on.
Washer fluid tank cracks at top and leaks to a certain level.
BAS errors on the dash are normally a brake switch replacement.
I replaced my shocks, fronts were easy, rears were hard. Had to unbolt the body to give me a inch more clearance to get to bolts.
Spare keys take 6/10 weeks from Mercedes to order - 200
Sunroof drains block, or disconnect meaning water runs down the A pillars over various ecus. I have to reconnect mine, then remove both wings to clear out the drains which are around both front foot wells.
Immobiliser ring, around the key ignition, can play up and show start errors
If your low range light flashes around 16 times on start then you then to give the low range a go. these motors get stuck and need cycling. Put in N, switch on / off the low range.
Ive pretty much over service mine now. I regularly do the gearbox filter / oil, diffs, ive install a secondary cooling fan system on mine as Ive had 1 fan module go, and poor connection issues which could of resulted in the engine over heating. so I have my own one to `catch` this.
I had endless rattles which took a year to fix each one so now my car is quiettttttt :-)
i love my truck. I was looking at getting a ML63 original for 16K. However I say my one for £4K. came with new tyres, private plate, 20inch alloys and had 89K miles. I get 85% of the fun at 25% of the cost.
There is a tremendous US ML forum you need to join. Packed with manuals, pdfs, and experienced owners. There is never a problem or code I upload to the group which someone hasnt had and fixed. benzworld.org
Simon
I
Ooooh you're my new best friend. Would've loved a 55 but obviously I wasn't looking to spend £4k+.I have a 2003 ML55. In Black. So a virtual `fist pump`.
Rusty hatch is common, mine was similar when I brought my 4 years ago. Luckerly black smoothrite is the same colour as I use that to touch around wheel arches etc. I use a halfords gloss black for above the sill level.
Owning one these things is a joy if you accept regular maintenance and are up for a challenge by doing it yourself.
ML500 is near identical to ML55 engine, so things to be aware of :-
Cooling fan - the module goes wrong / fuse at the battery blows so be aware and now and then check that the fan comes on.
Washer fluid tank cracks at top and leaks to a certain level.
BAS errors on the dash are normally a brake switch replacement.
I replaced my shocks, fronts were easy, rears were hard. Had to unbolt the body to give me a inch more clearance to get to bolts.
Spare keys take 6/10 weeks from Mercedes to order - 200
Sunroof drains block, or disconnect meaning water runs down the A pillars over various ecus. I have to reconnect mine, then remove both wings to clear out the drains which are around both front foot wells.
Immobiliser ring, around the key ignition, can play up and show start errors
If your low range light flashes around 16 times on start then you then to give the low range a go. these motors get stuck and need cycling. Put in N, switch on / off the low range.
Ive pretty much over service mine now. I regularly do the gearbox filter / oil, diffs, ive install a secondary cooling fan system on mine as Ive had 1 fan module go, and poor connection issues which could of resulted in the engine over heating. so I have my own one to `catch` this.
I had endless rattles which took a year to fix each one so now my car is quiettttttt :-)
i love my truck. I was looking at getting a ML63 original for 16K. However I say my one for £4K. came with new tyres, private plate, 20inch alloys and had 89K miles. I get 85% of the fun at 25% of the cost.
There is a tremendous US ML forum you need to join. Packed with manuals, pdfs, and experienced owners. There is never a problem or code I upload to the group which someone hasnt had and fixed. benzworld.org
Simon
I
Car has 3 permanent lights, one being the BAS.
No sunroof
Came with one of those non fob spare keys
On my journey the temp seemed to sit around 90 but when on the motorway, it was sitting under 80. Is that normal?
Took my dog for a walk last night and went past the passenger side and realised there is about twice as much rust on that side so not looking forward to doing that today.
Will need to go out and get more black paint but may need to buy a litre tin.
Hi,
3 red lights normally point to an abs issue with the pump. The ABS pump is located under the washer fluid tank. If that is leaking then it leaks onto the pump. Also the wiring to the pump runs very close to the chasis and rubs away, so check that too.
These trucks run hot / cold. The temp gauge isnt like a BMW where it just stays level all the time. My temp gauge can move from 90 / 110 depending on activity. At the start this really worried me and I kept on looking at it all the time thinking my engine was over heating.
The gauge is fed from a sensor at the top of the thermostat, it isnt rad temp. The thermostat opens at 86/90 and your fan should start coming on about 99/100. The fan doesnt just come on or off it has various speeds which the car's CAN will decide. So start the car, let it get to temp 90ish, switch on the AC and that should switch the fan on. Run it without the AC and watch to see when the fan comes on under normal engine temp. Normally when modules break there is a default `fan always on` mode. If not then sometimes the fuse, at the battery terminal and is thick / square can blow.
I have a secondary system that as probe in the rad, and a `push` fan on the front of the rad pack. I set a temperture via the control relay, normally around the same temp as when the fan comes on under non ac use, to run at the same time.
You need get get yourself a cheap code scanner. I brought one from Amazon, 100, i now read all my codes, delete / clear etc. Saved me 80 quid a time at the local mercedes dealership.
Also, prepare yourself for spark plugs. i have 2x per cylinder so thats 16x. All platnium. driver's side read plugs are a pain to get too so jack the car up, remove drivers wheel, remove liner and boom there you go.
Simon
3 red lights normally point to an abs issue with the pump. The ABS pump is located under the washer fluid tank. If that is leaking then it leaks onto the pump. Also the wiring to the pump runs very close to the chasis and rubs away, so check that too.
These trucks run hot / cold. The temp gauge isnt like a BMW where it just stays level all the time. My temp gauge can move from 90 / 110 depending on activity. At the start this really worried me and I kept on looking at it all the time thinking my engine was over heating.
The gauge is fed from a sensor at the top of the thermostat, it isnt rad temp. The thermostat opens at 86/90 and your fan should start coming on about 99/100. The fan doesnt just come on or off it has various speeds which the car's CAN will decide. So start the car, let it get to temp 90ish, switch on the AC and that should switch the fan on. Run it without the AC and watch to see when the fan comes on under normal engine temp. Normally when modules break there is a default `fan always on` mode. If not then sometimes the fuse, at the battery terminal and is thick / square can blow.
I have a secondary system that as probe in the rad, and a `push` fan on the front of the rad pack. I set a temperture via the control relay, normally around the same temp as when the fan comes on under non ac use, to run at the same time.
You need get get yourself a cheap code scanner. I brought one from Amazon, 100, i now read all my codes, delete / clear etc. Saved me 80 quid a time at the local mercedes dealership.
Also, prepare yourself for spark plugs. i have 2x per cylinder so thats 16x. All platnium. driver's side read plugs are a pain to get too so jack the car up, remove drivers wheel, remove liner and boom there you go.
Simon
sbk1972 said:
Hi,
3 red lights normally point to an abs issue with the pump. The ABS pump is located under the washer fluid tank. If that is leaking then it leaks onto the pump. Also the wiring to the pump runs very close to the chasis and rubs away, so check that too.
These trucks run hot / cold. The temp gauge isnt like a BMW where it just stays level all the time. My temp gauge can move from 90 / 110 depending on activity. At the start this really worried me and I kept on looking at it all the time thinking my engine was over heating.
The gauge is fed from a sensor at the top of the thermostat, it isnt rad temp. The thermostat opens at 86/90 and your fan should start coming on about 99/100. The fan doesnt just come on or off it has various speeds which the car's CAN will decide. So start the car, let it get to temp 90ish, switch on the AC and that should switch the fan on. Run it without the AC and watch to see when the fan comes on under normal engine temp. Normally when modules break there is a default `fan always on` mode. If not then sometimes the fuse, at the battery terminal and is thick / square can blow.
I have a secondary system that as probe in the rad, and a `push` fan on the front of the rad pack. I set a temperture via the control relay, normally around the same temp as when the fan comes on under non ac use, to run at the same time.
You need get get yourself a cheap code scanner. I brought one from Amazon, 100, i now read all my codes, delete / clear etc. Saved me 80 quid a time at the local mercedes dealership.
Also, prepare yourself for spark plugs. i have 2x per cylinder so thats 16x. All platnium. driver's side read plugs are a pain to get too so jack the car up, remove drivers wheel, remove liner and boom there you go.
Simon
Awesome info. Thanks3 red lights normally point to an abs issue with the pump. The ABS pump is located under the washer fluid tank. If that is leaking then it leaks onto the pump. Also the wiring to the pump runs very close to the chasis and rubs away, so check that too.
These trucks run hot / cold. The temp gauge isnt like a BMW where it just stays level all the time. My temp gauge can move from 90 / 110 depending on activity. At the start this really worried me and I kept on looking at it all the time thinking my engine was over heating.
The gauge is fed from a sensor at the top of the thermostat, it isnt rad temp. The thermostat opens at 86/90 and your fan should start coming on about 99/100. The fan doesnt just come on or off it has various speeds which the car's CAN will decide. So start the car, let it get to temp 90ish, switch on the AC and that should switch the fan on. Run it without the AC and watch to see when the fan comes on under normal engine temp. Normally when modules break there is a default `fan always on` mode. If not then sometimes the fuse, at the battery terminal and is thick / square can blow.
I have a secondary system that as probe in the rad, and a `push` fan on the front of the rad pack. I set a temperture via the control relay, normally around the same temp as when the fan comes on under non ac use, to run at the same time.
You need get get yourself a cheap code scanner. I brought one from Amazon, 100, i now read all my codes, delete / clear etc. Saved me 80 quid a time at the local mercedes dealership.
Also, prepare yourself for spark plugs. i have 2x per cylinder so thats 16x. All platnium. driver's side read plugs are a pain to get too so jack the car up, remove drivers wheel, remove liner and boom there you go.
Simon
sbk1972 said:
Excellent Thread !! :-)
I have a 2003 ML55. In Black. So a virtual `fist pump`.
Rusty hatch is common, mine was similar when I brought my 4 years ago. Luckerly black smoothrite is the same colour as I use that to touch around wheel arches etc. I use a halfords gloss black for above the sill level.
Owning one these things is a joy if you accept regular maintenance and are up for a challenge by doing it yourself.
ML500 is near identical to ML55 engine, so things to be aware of :-
Cooling fan - the module goes wrong / fuse at the battery blows so be aware and now and then check that the fan comes on.
Washer fluid tank cracks at top and leaks to a certain level.
BAS errors on the dash are normally a brake switch replacement.
I replaced my shocks, fronts were easy, rears were hard. Had to unbolt the body to give me a inch more clearance to get to bolts.
Spare keys take 6/10 weeks from Mercedes to order - 200
Sunroof drains block, or disconnect meaning water runs down the A pillars over various ecus. I have to reconnect mine, then remove both wings to clear out the drains which are around both front foot wells.
Immobiliser ring, around the key ignition, can play up and show start errors
If your low range light flashes around 16 times on start then you then to give the low range a go. these motors get stuck and need cycling. Put in N, switch on / off the low range.
Ive pretty much over service mine now. I regularly do the gearbox filter / oil, diffs, ive install a secondary cooling fan system on mine as Ive had 1 fan module go, and poor connection issues which could of resulted in the engine over heating. so I have my own one to `catch` this.
I had endless rattles which took a year to fix each one so now my car is quiettttttt :-)
i love my truck. I was looking at getting a ML63 original for 16K. However I say my one for £4K. came with new tyres, private plate, 20inch alloys and had 89K miles. I get 85% of the fun at 25% of the cost.
There is a tremendous US ML forum you need to join. Packed with manuals, pdfs, and experienced owners. There is never a problem or code I upload to the group which someone hasnt had and fixed. benzworld.org
Simon
I
To add to the BAS thing, if you get the BAS ESP light and it is brake light switch, you won’t be able to move the gear lever out of Park.I have a 2003 ML55. In Black. So a virtual `fist pump`.
Rusty hatch is common, mine was similar when I brought my 4 years ago. Luckerly black smoothrite is the same colour as I use that to touch around wheel arches etc. I use a halfords gloss black for above the sill level.
Owning one these things is a joy if you accept regular maintenance and are up for a challenge by doing it yourself.
ML500 is near identical to ML55 engine, so things to be aware of :-
Cooling fan - the module goes wrong / fuse at the battery blows so be aware and now and then check that the fan comes on.
Washer fluid tank cracks at top and leaks to a certain level.
BAS errors on the dash are normally a brake switch replacement.
I replaced my shocks, fronts were easy, rears were hard. Had to unbolt the body to give me a inch more clearance to get to bolts.
Spare keys take 6/10 weeks from Mercedes to order - 200
Sunroof drains block, or disconnect meaning water runs down the A pillars over various ecus. I have to reconnect mine, then remove both wings to clear out the drains which are around both front foot wells.
Immobiliser ring, around the key ignition, can play up and show start errors
If your low range light flashes around 16 times on start then you then to give the low range a go. these motors get stuck and need cycling. Put in N, switch on / off the low range.
Ive pretty much over service mine now. I regularly do the gearbox filter / oil, diffs, ive install a secondary cooling fan system on mine as Ive had 1 fan module go, and poor connection issues which could of resulted in the engine over heating. so I have my own one to `catch` this.
I had endless rattles which took a year to fix each one so now my car is quiettttttt :-)
i love my truck. I was looking at getting a ML63 original for 16K. However I say my one for £4K. came with new tyres, private plate, 20inch alloys and had 89K miles. I get 85% of the fun at 25% of the cost.
There is a tremendous US ML forum you need to join. Packed with manuals, pdfs, and experienced owners. There is never a problem or code I upload to the group which someone hasnt had and fixed. benzworld.org
Simon
I
There’s a little flap under D on the shift pattern indicator and you do something with that to unlock it. Remember you’ll have no brake lights though
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