The shediest ML in the WORLD (possibly)
Discussion
I ran a 2004 ML20CDI (Exclusive??) from 2009 to 2014 and it cost me a fortune! Rear springs crack because water builds up in the cup they sit it and rot the springs. As they are a complete unit with the shocks they are v pricey. Plastic inlet manifold was replaced at the flappy brass valve thing wears them out. All diesel injectors were replaced at once each. Both front shocks went. Rear boot lid lock seized. Drivers window motor failed etc etc. They were built in California and the build quality was poor, but also so were the materials. At only 6 years old mine had the rust on the boot lid above the number plate and soon after rust on the front wings came through, the headlights were misting over. Seat trims fell off etc etc. It looked like a minter when I first got it. Hope you have more luck!
Gixer968CS said:
I ran a 2004 ML20CDI (Exclusive??) from 2009 to 2014 and it cost me a fortune! Rear springs crack because water builds up in the cup they sit it and rot the springs. As they are a complete unit with the shocks they are v pricey. Plastic inlet manifold was replaced at the flappy brass valve thing wears them out. All diesel injectors were replaced at once each. Both front shocks went. Rear boot lid lock seized. Drivers window motor failed etc etc. They were built in California and the build quality was poor, but also so were the materials. At only 6 years old mine had the rust on the boot lid above the number plate and soon after rust on the front wings came through, the headlights were misting over. Seat trims fell off etc etc. It looked like a minter when I first got it. Hope you have more luck!
Built in AlabamaMine is covered in rust too unfortunately but everything else is fine, so I’ll keep it until it dies now
BrettMRC said:
Do you have AC?
Presume the main fan is still on the engine...
Nope. 270 / 500 / 55 use a fan module and separate fan. The other petrol engines have dual fans.Presume the main fan is still on the engine...
The fan module is fed `CAN` information meaning it's just not on or off but works at different speeds depending on heat / temp. If you stand at the front, look down, `behind the rad, left hand side, at the top, you will see some wires under a cover. This is where the CAN connects to the module, and + and - from the battery
I had to replace my fan module (£100 on ebay) as the previous owner cut it out and replaced it with a probe / relay. It's feed by a 100amp at the battery terminal, little square fuse.
If the fan module fails then it defaults to `on` at top speed. However it it fails due to no power then you're buggered but a light should some on the dash. orange / rad pic. Switch your AC on and the fan should switch on.
I have a secondary fan on mine. I installed a `push` fan on the front of the rad, and a Davies Craig probe / relay setup. This means that Ive set the probe / relay to go off at 84' (rad temp). This helps cooling and has saved me twice when the fan module stopped working.
i could bore you for hours on the cooling system on these MLs :-) You also have a secondary water pump. Look at the engine, right hand side of battery, there is a boosch electric pump. Mine was siezed when I brought mine. 80 quid on amazon. This continues to pump water when the engine is switched off to prevent hot spots. IT also helps cooling. check yours, bet its siezed. Switch car off and feel it, it should be buzzing away.
Simon
Edited by sbk1972 on Thursday 30th July 08:40
sbk1972 said:
Nope. 270 / 500 / 55 use a fan module and separate fan. The other petrol engines have dual fans.
The fan module is fed `CAN` information meaning it's just not on or off but works at different speeds depending on heat / temp. If you stand at the front, look down, `behind the rad, left hand side, at the top, you will see some wires under a cover. This is where the CAN connects to the module, and + and - from the battery
I had to replace my fan module (£100 on ebay) as the previous owner cut it out and replaced it with a probe / relay. It's feed by a 100amp at the battery terminal, little square fuse.
If the fan module fails then it defaults to `on` at top speed. However it it fails due to no power then you're buggered but a light should some on the dash. orange / rad pic. Switch your AC on and the fan should switch on.
I have a secondary fan on mine. I installed a `push` fan on the front of the rad, and a Davies Craig probe / relay setup. This means that Ive set the probe / relay to go off at 84' (rad temp). This helps cooling and has saved me twice when the fan module stopped working.
i could bore you for hours on the cooling system on these MLs :-) You also have a secondary water pump. Look at the engine, right hand side of battery, there is a boosch electric pump. Mine was siezed when I brought mine. 80 quid on amazon. This continues to pump water when the engine is switched off to prevent hot spots. IT also helps cooling. check yours, bet its siezed. Switch car off and feel it, it should be buzzing away.
Simon
Hi Simon, The fan module is fed `CAN` information meaning it's just not on or off but works at different speeds depending on heat / temp. If you stand at the front, look down, `behind the rad, left hand side, at the top, you will see some wires under a cover. This is where the CAN connects to the module, and + and - from the battery
I had to replace my fan module (£100 on ebay) as the previous owner cut it out and replaced it with a probe / relay. It's feed by a 100amp at the battery terminal, little square fuse.
If the fan module fails then it defaults to `on` at top speed. However it it fails due to no power then you're buggered but a light should some on the dash. orange / rad pic. Switch your AC on and the fan should switch on.
I have a secondary fan on mine. I installed a `push` fan on the front of the rad, and a Davies Craig probe / relay setup. This means that Ive set the probe / relay to go off at 84' (rad temp). This helps cooling and has saved me twice when the fan module stopped working.
i could bore you for hours on the cooling system on these MLs :-) You also have a secondary water pump. Look at the engine, right hand side of battery, there is a boosch electric pump. Mine was siezed when I brought mine. 80 quid on amazon. This continues to pump water when the engine is switched off to prevent hot spots. IT also helps cooling. check yours, bet its siezed. Switch car off and feel it, it should be buzzing away.
Simon
Edited by sbk1972 on Thursday 30th July 08:40
Great info.
So just to clarify, my car is not missing 2 smaller fans?
Do you know what temp the main fan should come on at? I left it running after changing the coolant to about 90 and the fan still wasn't on.
Hi
Your car doesnt have front dual fans.
Depends on whether AC is on, or off. Using my secondary probe / relay, which has a LCD screen on it. My OEM fan comes on at 84' at the Rad. This is rad temp which is about 10' cooler than the thermostat housing sensor, so 94/95.
The dashboard temp gauge does move up and down. At first this worried me as coming from my BMW m3 where the temp gauge stayed mid way all the time.
Take a look on this US forum. It pretty much has every question you will ever ask, with manuals, etc.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class.35/
Your car doesnt have front dual fans.
Depends on whether AC is on, or off. Using my secondary probe / relay, which has a LCD screen on it. My OEM fan comes on at 84' at the Rad. This is rad temp which is about 10' cooler than the thermostat housing sensor, so 94/95.
The dashboard temp gauge does move up and down. At first this worried me as coming from my BMW m3 where the temp gauge stayed mid way all the time.
Take a look on this US forum. It pretty much has every question you will ever ask, with manuals, etc.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class.35/
sbk1972 said:
Hi
Your car doesnt have front dual fans.
Depends on whether AC is on, or off. Using my secondary probe / relay, which has a LCD screen on it. My OEM fan comes on at 84' at the Rad. This is rad temp which is about 10' cooler than the thermostat housing sensor, so 94/95.
The dashboard temp gauge does move up and down. At first this worried me as coming from my BMW m3 where the temp gauge stayed mid way all the time.
Take a look on this US forum. It pretty much has every question you will ever ask, with manuals, etc.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class.35/
Thank you.Your car doesnt have front dual fans.
Depends on whether AC is on, or off. Using my secondary probe / relay, which has a LCD screen on it. My OEM fan comes on at 84' at the Rad. This is rad temp which is about 10' cooler than the thermostat housing sensor, so 94/95.
The dashboard temp gauge does move up and down. At first this worried me as coming from my BMW m3 where the temp gauge stayed mid way all the time.
Take a look on this US forum. It pretty much has every question you will ever ask, with manuals, etc.
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class.35/
Seems changing the coolant didn't help my little LPG dilemma so perhaps it is the reducer/vaporiser.
rich12 said:
BrettMRC said:
Fitted a supercharger yet?
No but the new owner may do 
I sold it a few weeks ago. It was sell it or spend loads of money on it which didn't make sense for a cat C leggy 19 year old car.
Ripping the exhaust off wasn't a great idea either.
I can recommend big engined X5's if you still like looking for trouble?
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