£600 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE, 2.5 v6
Discussion
And it passed! I used a wire brush on a drill to get all the crust of the front o/s jacking point/sill and sprayed it with some hammerite and even the rust advisory disappeared on the retest.
£104 to get through the MOT, cannot complain. Might treat it to an oil change as a thank you
£104 to get through the MOT, cannot complain. Might treat it to an oil change as a thank you
Nowt much to report, just keeps plodding along. Apparently is the best car I have ever bought, according to my better half. Every now and again i get the urge to replace it - likely with a V8, probably a CLK500/CLK55, S Type R, XJ R, or something of that ilk - i get told that we should keep the Rover.
Treated it to an oil change today.
59097 miles now, so about 4000 under my ownership.
Every now and again get an inkling to chuck some money at it - bodywork, sills, inlet manifold, cambelt...but realise id be cheaper just buying a better example.
Treated it to an oil change today.
59097 miles now, so about 4000 under my ownership.
Every now and again get an inkling to chuck some money at it - bodywork, sills, inlet manifold, cambelt...but realise id be cheaper just buying a better example.
I've got my fathers April 2005 made / 2006 registered MK2 with not a mark on it. All the bells and whistles and 48k miles for sale soon. He's not dead, just decided to downsize to a hatchback.
Absolutely no idea what it's worth as values are all over the place. Been watching a few MK2 with 60k miles go through Matthewsons with an estimate of £2.5-£3.5k over the Summer
Absolutely no idea what it's worth as values are all over the place. Been watching a few MK2 with 60k miles go through Matthewsons with an estimate of £2.5-£3.5k over the Summer
sutoka said:
sjc said:
Engine /gearbox/trim ?
Might be worth putting on the 75 FB pages .
1.8T Connoisseur manualMight be worth putting on the 75 FB pages .
Lost a dipped beam on the commute yesterday. Sourced myself a bulb, went to replace it. Surely straight forward ...
Remove a hatch in the wheel arch, remove a rubber cover over the rear of the bulb unit, unplug the bulb and there is a clip which you squeeze open to release the bulb. Straight-forward enough, though forums suggest that losing that clip by releasing the wrong end accidentally means a bumper off job to find it and refit which I was nervous about. However, could I get the bulb refitted and clip closed - of course not. So I needed to take the bloody wheel off.
With the wheel off, access was much better and it was straightforward - could see that the bulb needed to be fitted in a particular orientation to allow the clip to close, which I could do with the wheel on now I know how. However, more difficult than it needed to be on a very cold November evening...
Remove a hatch in the wheel arch, remove a rubber cover over the rear of the bulb unit, unplug the bulb and there is a clip which you squeeze open to release the bulb. Straight-forward enough, though forums suggest that losing that clip by releasing the wrong end accidentally means a bumper off job to find it and refit which I was nervous about. However, could I get the bulb refitted and clip closed - of course not. So I needed to take the bloody wheel off.
With the wheel off, access was much better and it was straightforward - could see that the bulb needed to be fitted in a particular orientation to allow the clip to close, which I could do with the wheel on now I know how. However, more difficult than it needed to be on a very cold November evening...
Cascade360 said:
Lost a dipped beam on the commute yesterday. Sourced myself a bulb, went to replace it. Surely straight forward ...
Remove a hatch in the wheel arch, remove a rubber cover over the rear of the bulb unit, unplug the bulb and there is a clip which you squeeze open to release the bulb. Straight-forward enough, though forums suggest that losing that clip by releasing the wrong end accidentally means a bumper off job to find it and refit which I was nervous about. However, could I get the bulb refitted and clip closed - of course not. So I needed to take the bloody wheel off.
With the wheel off, access was much better and it was straightforward - could see that the bulb needed to be fitted in a particular orientation to allow the clip to close, which I could do with the wheel on now I know how. However, more difficult than it needed to be on a very cold November evening...
Yes that's about normal for your first one in a R75. Next time you won't need the wheel off, and third time you'll do it one handed in the dark in 60 seconds!Remove a hatch in the wheel arch, remove a rubber cover over the rear of the bulb unit, unplug the bulb and there is a clip which you squeeze open to release the bulb. Straight-forward enough, though forums suggest that losing that clip by releasing the wrong end accidentally means a bumper off job to find it and refit which I was nervous about. However, could I get the bulb refitted and clip closed - of course not. So I needed to take the bloody wheel off.
With the wheel off, access was much better and it was straightforward - could see that the bulb needed to be fitted in a particular orientation to allow the clip to close, which I could do with the wheel on now I know how. However, more difficult than it needed to be on a very cold November evening...
So the 75 has a problem. Heaters are very inconsistent and barely work. Air con works fine and I get some hot air on certain settings but not working as should. Do not seem to have any symptoms of overheating and i think coolant levels are fine (though the bottle is very opaque and it is incredibly difficult to read...). Googling suggests possibly (1) clogged heater matrix (2) stuck open thermostat (3) broken air mixing flaps. Before i drain coolant and try and get at heater matrix any ideas? I have had some intermitteng ticking / rattling etc noises from dash over last year or so, maybe flaps...
So a little bit of investigation this morning.
1) I think the thermostat is not the problem. Using diagnostics mode, monitored temperatures on commute to work. Steadily rose to 85 or so, then fluctuated between 85 and 100 (basically nose to tail traffic the whole way). Sadly didn't have an opportunity to see the impact of fast or downhill sections, but that seems to be normal behaviour.
2) Coolant level is very difficult to read. I think the reason is however that it is filled past the max line, so there isn't actually a line to read. Which is odd, as I am sure I have checked and got a level on this car before. I siphoned a tiny bit out and the coolant looks fairly fresh and pink, which is good. Might try and pull a bit more out and see if I can get it down to the actual level. I've not topped up coolant in 18 months though so surely isn't cause of heating problem.
3) Heater operation is very inconsistent. For the first 20/30 minutes, I was getting more or less no air from the driver/passenger vents, but could get air from the windscreen vent. At the end of my journey, I was getting strong hot air from the centre driver vent; weak hot air from vent on driver right; no air from passenger left vent; and some warm air from passenger centre vent. The windscreen vent was hot near the centre driver side; cold centre passenger side; a tiny bit of air driver door side; and nothing at all passenger door side.
4) Vents were rattling a bit on start up.
So it seems it is either some sort of flap issue, or clogged heater matrix. Likely the latter I think, as Googling suggests that is a very common problem. It seems taking it apart to clean/flush isn't hugely difficult, but getting it back together without leaks can be a nightmare. So not sure whether to risk it or just live with it. Was a bit cold and miserable this morning ....
1) I think the thermostat is not the problem. Using diagnostics mode, monitored temperatures on commute to work. Steadily rose to 85 or so, then fluctuated between 85 and 100 (basically nose to tail traffic the whole way). Sadly didn't have an opportunity to see the impact of fast or downhill sections, but that seems to be normal behaviour.
2) Coolant level is very difficult to read. I think the reason is however that it is filled past the max line, so there isn't actually a line to read. Which is odd, as I am sure I have checked and got a level on this car before. I siphoned a tiny bit out and the coolant looks fairly fresh and pink, which is good. Might try and pull a bit more out and see if I can get it down to the actual level. I've not topped up coolant in 18 months though so surely isn't cause of heating problem.
3) Heater operation is very inconsistent. For the first 20/30 minutes, I was getting more or less no air from the driver/passenger vents, but could get air from the windscreen vent. At the end of my journey, I was getting strong hot air from the centre driver vent; weak hot air from vent on driver right; no air from passenger left vent; and some warm air from passenger centre vent. The windscreen vent was hot near the centre driver side; cold centre passenger side; a tiny bit of air driver door side; and nothing at all passenger door side.
4) Vents were rattling a bit on start up.
So it seems it is either some sort of flap issue, or clogged heater matrix. Likely the latter I think, as Googling suggests that is a very common problem. It seems taking it apart to clean/flush isn't hugely difficult, but getting it back together without leaks can be a nightmare. So not sure whether to risk it or just live with it. Was a bit cold and miserable this morning ....
JeremyH5 said:
A tricky one! Use the TVR when it’s cold? 
Frustratingly I live yards outside of the newly expanded ULEZ zone and my office is within it, and two of my three cars are non-compliant! May end up selling the 205 and buying a second ULEZ compliant vehicle so if the 75 breaks I have a replacement for the commute. I keep being very tempted by cheap C215 MB CL500s, but the bork potential is extreme ...
Doesn't seem any point selling the 75 - I'd get scrap value for it and it keeps chugging away reliably.
Edited by Cascade360 on Tuesday 23 November 12:05
I've done a few heater matrix flushes using just a hose pipe and a valve, never had any major issues! As long as you're reasonably careful, take your time and replace any worn clips, you shouldn't have much trouble. Flush both ways if you can to get the most gunk out (ideally reverse first but it can be difficult to see which pipe does what). All you need is a hose, a valve for said hose like this:
so you can turn water on and off easily without a spring to the tap and maybe a jubilee clip to make sure the matrix hose is on your connector tight. I've cleaned a fair few out using just these and never had any leaks afterwards. You seem to have gained some mechanical experience through the ownership of this car so you shouldn't have a problem with this. Remember, if you cant easily pop a hose off, get some piers on and twist the hose right at the end. Not too tight but should help get the hose off no problem. Worth doing, even if it doesn't solve your problem. It sounds to me like yours is more electrical than a blocked matrix though.
so you can turn water on and off easily without a spring to the tap and maybe a jubilee clip to make sure the matrix hose is on your connector tight. I've cleaned a fair few out using just these and never had any leaks afterwards. You seem to have gained some mechanical experience through the ownership of this car so you shouldn't have a problem with this. Remember, if you cant easily pop a hose off, get some piers on and twist the hose right at the end. Not too tight but should help get the hose off no problem. Worth doing, even if it doesn't solve your problem. It sounds to me like yours is more electrical than a blocked matrix though.
RazerSauber said:
I've done a few heater matrix flushes using just a hose pipe and a valve, never had any major issues! As long as you're reasonably careful, take your time and replace any worn clips, you shouldn't have much trouble. Flush both ways if you can to get the most gunk out (ideally reverse first but it can be difficult to see which pipe does what). All you need is a hose, a valve for said hose like this:
so you can turn water on and off easily without a spring to the tap and maybe a jubilee clip to make sure the matrix hose is on your connector tight. I've cleaned a fair few out using just these and never had any leaks afterwards. You seem to have gained some mechanical experience through the ownership of this car so you shouldn't have a problem with this. Remember, if you cant easily pop a hose off, get some piers on and twist the hose right at the end. Not too tight but should help get the hose off no problem. Worth doing, even if it doesn't solve your problem. It sounds to me like yours is more electrical than a blocked matrix though.
Super, thanks. I gained much more mechanical experience by working on my 205 than the 75 which has steadfastly refused to go wrong, so am a semi-competent amateur car fiddler now, but on simple cars. I assume you mean remove the matrix and flush off the car? I have read that you can attempt to do it in situ, but it isn't obvious to me exactly how. I need to do a little bit more research. so you can turn water on and off easily without a spring to the tap and maybe a jubilee clip to make sure the matrix hose is on your connector tight. I've cleaned a fair few out using just these and never had any leaks afterwards. You seem to have gained some mechanical experience through the ownership of this car so you shouldn't have a problem with this. Remember, if you cant easily pop a hose off, get some piers on and twist the hose right at the end. Not too tight but should help get the hose off no problem. Worth doing, even if it doesn't solve your problem. It sounds to me like yours is more electrical than a blocked matrix though.
The 75 decided to misbehave for the first time yesterday. Loud clunk in the supermarket car park and then my better half said "why does the Rover now sound like the TVR". Exhaust had rusted through and detached from the backbox. Excellent timing as the newest addition to the fleet is in bits on the drive and refusing to go back together, blocking the TVR in. So three cars, but getting the bus to work this morning 
In the circumstances I do not fancy wrestling with a rusty exhaust on my back under the car so will be going into the local garage for a new exhaust rear section this week.
In the circumstances I do not fancy wrestling with a rusty exhaust on my back under the car so will be going into the local garage for a new exhaust rear section this week.Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff