£600 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE, 2.5 v6
Discussion
carinaman said:
Well it's a cheap enough car to learn on. Don't injure yourself.
Indeed and if I make an arse of it I don't rely on the car so can just call a mobile mechanic. This thread might turn into the journey of PrinceRupert becoming a time served home mechanic.
Or it might be an opportunity for all to laugh at my miserable failures.
Probably the latter...
Just to let you know, yes your car is a pre-facelift and also being a Y Reg quite likely a PPD car ( or certainly be some of it!). The auto box is a 5 speed (not 4) and also has a lock-out which drops the revs a bit more when cruising.
This thing will grow on you, I bought my first in 2009 as a stop gap, now on my third having done over 200k miles in them.. all V6’s.
This was my first one ...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WMAzi6MKxzA
This thing will grow on you, I bought my first in 2009 as a stop gap, now on my third having done over 200k miles in them.. all V6’s.
This was my first one ...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WMAzi6MKxzA
sjc said:
Just to let you know, yes your car is a pre-facelift and also being a Y Reg quite likely a PPD car ( or certainly be some of it!). The auto box is a 5 speed (not 4) and also has a lock-out which drops the revs a bit more when cruising.
This thing will grow on you, I bought my first in 2009 as a stop gap, now on my third having done over 200k miles in them.. all V6’s.
This was my first one ...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WMAzi6MKxzA
Thanks! What do you mean by PPD car? This thing will grow on you, I bought my first in 2009 as a stop gap, now on my third having done over 200k miles in them.. all V6’s.
This was my first one ...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WMAzi6MKxzA
Hopefully I can get the suspension knock sorted out and start to enjoy it!
I thought it was a 4 speed because I only seem to have the option to force it into 2nd 3rd and 4th. That must be wrong!
If you think it's a drop link then ones with a 4 year warranty:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
They are a pain in the arse on the R75 as the top nut is behind the back of the shock so I just took the strut out which I wouldn't say is a DIY job for a newbie. You'll need narrow spanners as it's easy to nick the rubber using regular ones which means they fail again.
I'd fit the spring protectors at the same time. In fact I bought complete strut assemblies from DMGRS as my origonal springs were looking shoddy and they were on offer.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
They are a pain in the arse on the R75 as the top nut is behind the back of the shock so I just took the strut out which I wouldn't say is a DIY job for a newbie. You'll need narrow spanners as it's easy to nick the rubber using regular ones which means they fail again.
I'd fit the spring protectors at the same time. In fact I bought complete strut assemblies from DMGRS as my origonal springs were looking shoddy and they were on offer.
PrinceRupert said:
Thanks! What do you mean by PPD car?
Hopefully I can get the suspension knock sorted out and start to enjoy it!
I thought it was a 4 speed because I only seem to have the option to force it into 2nd 3rd and 4th. That must be wrong!
PPD stands for Pre Project Drive. Project Drive was a round of silly little bits of petty cost cutting which happened over a period of time in 2001/2. The big cost cut came with the facelift of 2004, the cars are massively inferior in NVH levels and quality of materials.Hopefully I can get the suspension knock sorted out and start to enjoy it!
I thought it was a 4 speed because I only seem to have the option to force it into 2nd 3rd and 4th. That must be wrong!
You’re right about the auto box, you can only hold it manually in 2,3 and 4. If it feel stupidly sluggish or lazy to kick down,check the slack on the throttle cable (common fault) and also the Vis motors( there’s a power one and a balance one).
dai1983 said:
If you think it's a drop link then ones with a 4 year warranty:
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
They are a pain in the arse on the R75 as the top nut is behind the back of the shock so I just took the strut out which I wouldn't say is a DIY job for a newbie. You'll need narrow spanners as it's easy to nick the rubber using regular ones which means they fail again.
I'd fit the spring protectors at the same time. In fact I bought complete strut assemblies from DMGRS as my origonal springs were looking shoddy and they were on offer.
I ordered two of these a short while ago. So I'm going to give it a bash ... hopefully without taking the strut out. I ordered some obstruction spanners, as I read somewhere that these would be helpful. I've just spent a small fortune on tools (a lot more than it would have cost me to chuck it into a garage!) so hopefully I succeed https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
They are a pain in the arse on the R75 as the top nut is behind the back of the shock so I just took the strut out which I wouldn't say is a DIY job for a newbie. You'll need narrow spanners as it's easy to nick the rubber using regular ones which means they fail again.
I'd fit the spring protectors at the same time. In fact I bought complete strut assemblies from DMGRS as my origonal springs were looking shoddy and they were on offer.
The front shock absorbers were apparently replaced last November, at an apparent cost of £460. With that knowledge, and the knowledge of my compete lack of any mechanical ability, is there anything else I should try and replace at the same time as the arb links? Lower wishbone bushes?
sjc said:
PPD stands for Pre Project Drive. Project Drive was a round of silly little bits of petty cost cutting which happened over a period of time in 2001/2. The big cost cut came with the facelift of 2004, the cars are massively inferior in NVH levels and quality of materials.
You’re right about the auto box, you can only hold it manually in 2,3 and 4. If it feel stupidly sluggish or lazy to kick down,check the slack on the throttle cable (common fault) and also the Vis motors( there’s a power one and a balance one).
Ah, the vendor claimed it was pre cost-cutting. Is there any way to check? You’re right about the auto box, you can only hold it manually in 2,3 and 4. If it feel stupidly sluggish or lazy to kick down,check the slack on the throttle cable (common fault) and also the Vis motors( there’s a power one and a balance one).
For kickdown, it takes about a second or so before it floors it. I am not sure if this is normal practice for these boxes? I don't know how to check the throttle cable or vis motors, but can certainly google it!
PrinceRupert said:
Ah, the vendor claimed it was pre cost-cutting. Is there any way to check?
For kickdown, it takes about a second or so before it floors it. I am not sure if this is normal practice for these boxes? I don't know how to check the throttle cable or vis motors, but can certainly google it!
For your perusal squire ...For kickdown, it takes about a second or so before it floors it. I am not sure if this is normal practice for these boxes? I don't know how to check the throttle cable or vis motors, but can certainly google it!
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread....
sjc said:
Excellent thank you. I am VIN 210575 so looks like I got cost-cutting 1 to 5! Which seems right as I don't have the embossed headrest or D post badge but do have the plastic front seat belt lower anchorage bolt head cap at base of BC post. Though my key fobs don't have the Rover logo ...PrinceRupert said:
Excellent thank you. I am VIN 210575 so looks like I got cost-cutting 1 to 5! Which seems right as I don't have the embossed headrest or D post badge but do have the plastic front seat belt lower anchorage bolt head cap at base of BC post. Though my key fobs don't have the Rover logo ...
Key fob covers would likely have been replaced as the buttons wear out, and Rover branded ones aren’t available anymore.I also have a current thread running !
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
sjc said:
Key fob covers would likely have been replaced as the buttons wear out, and Rover branded ones aren’t available anymore.
I also have a current thread running !
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Excellent will check it out. I also have a current thread running !
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
PrinceRupert said:
Excellent thank you. I am VIN 210575 so looks like I got cost-cutting 1 to 5! Which seems right as I don't have the embossed headrest or D post badge but do have the plastic front seat belt lower anchorage bolt head cap at base of BC post. Though my key fobs don't have the Rover logo ...
You've become quite the Rover beard over the past few days!
The original advert editors note about black sills - these were only black on Cowley built cars. Only the very earliest 75s were Cowley built, they soon moved to Longbridge were a vast majority of cars rolled off the line. Longbridge cara had body colour-coded sills, not sure why they made the change but personally I think the body colour versions look better. The facelift didn't come along until 2004, yours is definately a pre-facelift!
Regarding the suspension knocking, as others have mentioned, it'll be an ARB drop link. I have it on good authority that the best brand to buy are Meyle HD drop links. I got through several sets in a short space of time, before fitting Meyle variants. They've been whisper quiet so far. They're a bugger to fit, the top but is an arse to remove. You're best off cutting 7mm off the top of the new thread on new link, so that you can get a spanner on it.
Regarding the autobox, it may be due a fluid change. The JATCO box ought to be smooth, however I'd trust only a 75 specialist with changing the fluid - for some reason it has to be done at a specific temperature, a pain! It may also be worth doing twice - the box holds 8 litres of fluid, however only 4 litres will drain. To get a bit of a flush going, I'd recommend having it done a couple of times with a bit of a drive between changes.
Regarding the suspension knocking, as others have mentioned, it'll be an ARB drop link. I have it on good authority that the best brand to buy are Meyle HD drop links. I got through several sets in a short space of time, before fitting Meyle variants. They've been whisper quiet so far. They're a bugger to fit, the top but is an arse to remove. You're best off cutting 7mm off the top of the new thread on new link, so that you can get a spanner on it.
Regarding the autobox, it may be due a fluid change. The JATCO box ought to be smooth, however I'd trust only a 75 specialist with changing the fluid - for some reason it has to be done at a specific temperature, a pain! It may also be worth doing twice - the box holds 8 litres of fluid, however only 4 litres will drain. To get a bit of a flush going, I'd recommend having it done a couple of times with a bit of a drive between changes.
Thanks Muddle!
I ordered these drop links which came recommended on the 75 forum: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
Looking forward to failing to fit them. I've ordered an angle grinder. No doubt going to break something
It isn't that the autobox is not smooth, but rather it takes a little bit of time to kickdown and on. Will need to drive a bit more to see what it's like.
I ordered these drop links which came recommended on the 75 forum: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
Looking forward to failing to fit them. I've ordered an angle grinder. No doubt going to break something
It isn't that the autobox is not smooth, but rather it takes a little bit of time to kickdown and on. Will need to drive a bit more to see what it's like.
PrinceRupert said:
Thanks Muddle!
I ordered these drop links which came recommended on the 75 forum: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
Looking forward to failing to fit them. I've ordered an angle grinder. No doubt going to break something
It isn't that the autobox is not smooth, but rather it takes a little bit of time to kickdown and on. Will need to drive a bit more to see what it's like.
I found mine was quicker to kickdown after a 'box fluid change. Not sure why, maybe it was just a placebo effect but it certainly seemed brisker. I ordered these drop links which came recommended on the 75 forum: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/suspension/pro...
Looking forward to failing to fit them. I've ordered an angle grinder. No doubt going to break something
It isn't that the autobox is not smooth, but rather it takes a little bit of time to kickdown and on. Will need to drive a bit more to see what it's like.
I believe the gearbox also "learns" your driving style, adjusting gearchanges to suit. It may be that it has learned someone else's driving style and thus a little sluggish. I believe the usual way to reset the gearbox "brain" is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect. This shouldn't have any adverse affects on a 75, other than loosing the radio code - but then again, not all 75s had the code activated at the factory, but that's a different story.
Muddle238 said:
I found mine was quicker to kickdown after a 'box fluid change. Not sure why, maybe it was just a placebo effect but it certainly seemed brisker.
I believe the gearbox also "learns" your driving style, adjusting gearchanges to suit. It may be that it has learned someone else's driving style and thus a little sluggish. I believe the usual way to reset the gearbox "brain" is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect. This shouldn't have any adverse affects on a 75, other than loosing the radio code - but then again, not all 75s had the code activated at the factory, but that's a different story.
Thanks! It got a new battery just fifty miles ago, so perhaps it just needs some time to learn.I believe the gearbox also "learns" your driving style, adjusting gearchanges to suit. It may be that it has learned someone else's driving style and thus a little sluggish. I believe the usual way to reset the gearbox "brain" is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect. This shouldn't have any adverse affects on a 75, other than loosing the radio code - but then again, not all 75s had the code activated at the factory, but that's a different story.
PrinceRupert said:
Muddle238 said:
I found mine was quicker to kickdown after a 'box fluid change. Not sure why, maybe it was just a placebo effect but it certainly seemed brisker.
I believe the gearbox also "learns" your driving style, adjusting gearchanges to suit. It may be that it has learned someone else's driving style and thus a little sluggish. I believe the usual way to reset the gearbox "brain" is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect. This shouldn't have any adverse affects on a 75, other than loosing the radio code - but then again, not all 75s had the code activated at the factory, but that's a different story.
Thanks! It got a new battery just fifty miles ago, so perhaps it just needs some time to learn.I believe the gearbox also "learns" your driving style, adjusting gearchanges to suit. It may be that it has learned someone else's driving style and thus a little sluggish. I believe the usual way to reset the gearbox "brain" is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect. This shouldn't have any adverse affects on a 75, other than loosing the radio code - but then again, not all 75s had the code activated at the factory, but that's a different story.
So I sorted the electric mirrors today, which were a bit hesitant. Dismantled the switch unit, cleaned up the connectors, and works a treat. Did lose a button which caused a bit of a panic. Turned up in the garden 
In investigating the non working heated seats I found this under the drivers seat
No idea what it does or where it should plug into.
In investigating the non working heated seats I found this under the drivers seat
No idea what it does or where it should plug into.
Edited by PrinceRupert on Friday 26th June 22:30
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