£600 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE, 2.5 v6
Discussion
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k me the 40 quid pipe I ordered was only half of it, its another 40 quid for the other half:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LLH102820
k me the 40 quid pipe I ordered was only half of it, its another 40 quid for the other half: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LLH102820
sjc said:
Get a quote off Tom Force,for the cills etc he's done loads of them with good reports
Can't speak for welding but he replaced my "75" 2.5 engine recently after a connecting rod snapped, very reasonably priced repair and the new engine runs much better than the one it replaced.PrinceRupert said:
fk me the 40 quid pipe I ordered was only half of it, its another 40 quid for the other half:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LLH102820
No, not this.k me the 40 quid pipe I ordered was only half of it, its another 40 quid for the other half: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LLH102820
These pipes always go hard and brittle due to the heat build up.
Simply snap the ends off each pipe (the part that pushes into the manifolds) making sure you have about 3/4 inches of length.
Then just get some rubber hose (I used to go to Halfords where they sold it in whatever length you wanted) which costs only a few pounds, cut the rubber hose to the correct lengths, and then insert the plastic ends from the original pipework into each end of the new rubber hose, then fit to the car. Job jobbed!
I did that on all the 75's I had, worked perfectly. You can ensure no air leaks by simply using small jubilee clips at the ends of the rubber hose where the plastic "ends" are pushed in.
I probably haven't explained that very well, but if you think about it you will work it out!
It saved me a fortune in breather pipes, because they required replacement on all 5 cars I had!
Edited by SirGriffin on Sunday 3rd July 12:04
SirGriffin said:
No, not this.
These pipes always go hard and brittle due to the heat build up.
Simply snap the ends off each pipe (the part that pushes into the manifolds) making sure you have about 3/4 inches of length.
Then just get some rubber hose (I used to go to Halfords where they sold it in whatever length you wanted) which costs only a few pounds, cut the rubber hose to the correct lengths, and then insert the plastic ends from the original pipework into each end of the new rubber hose, then fit to the car. Job jobbed!
I did that on all the 75's I had, worked perfectly. You can ensure no air leaks by simply using small jubilee clips at the ends of the rubber hose where the plastic "ends" are pushed in.
I probably haven't explained that very well, but if you think about it you will work it out!
It saved me a fortune in breather pipes, because they required replacement on all 5 cars I had!
Wish I had read this before today! I ordered the pipe and it arrived yesterday. I snapped another bloody breather hose putting it all back together, the one that runs across the top of the engine. However it snapped cleanly in the middle so should be able to piece it back together with a length of rubber hose and two jubilee clips. These pipes always go hard and brittle due to the heat build up.
Simply snap the ends off each pipe (the part that pushes into the manifolds) making sure you have about 3/4 inches of length.
Then just get some rubber hose (I used to go to Halfords where they sold it in whatever length you wanted) which costs only a few pounds, cut the rubber hose to the correct lengths, and then insert the plastic ends from the original pipework into each end of the new rubber hose, then fit to the car. Job jobbed!
I did that on all the 75's I had, worked perfectly. You can ensure no air leaks by simply using small jubilee clips at the ends of the rubber hose where the plastic "ends" are pushed in.
I probably haven't explained that very well, but if you think about it you will work it out!
It saved me a fortune in breather pipes, because they required replacement on all 5 cars I had!
Edited by SirGriffin on Sunday 3rd July 12:04
Everything is now back together and it is running well. However, unfortunately, two of the front three fuel injectors are leaking. The one rear one I can see is not, but can't see the other two ...
I did replace the three back o-rings and not the front three (for some reason only remembered to order three), so hopefully it is just a case of fitting three replacement o-rings. They aren't expensive (8 quid delivered) and should hopefully be able to do it (although a bit fiddly) without taking the inlet manifold back off (just coils out and fuel rail off).
Also need to bleed the coolant but the torx screw holding the expansion tank to the car is so tight it snapped my torx bit before giving up. got some penetrating oil on it to see if that loosens it off.
JeremyH5 said:
I admire your tenacity. This reminds me why I always take my cars to “the man”. 
Well at this juncture it is either fix it or scrap it 
If the back fuel injectors are leaking, or the thermostat, which involves dismantling the engine again, it probably will be the latter ...When bleeding the coolant, it is absolutely critical to raise the expansion tank. This creates the highest point in the circuit and makes getting trapped air out so much easier.
Simply undo the bolt's holding it in place, but do not disconnect the coolant hoses. Just place something underneath it to keep it raised up under the bonnet.
Remove the cap, and run the engine. As the engine warms up, the thermostat will open and more trapped air will burp up through the expansion tank. You can help it by squeezing the main coolant hoses, taking care not to scald yourself.
As trapped are burps out, the coolant level will drop so remember to keep it topped up to the max line.
Switch off and when things have cooled, bolt the expansion tank back in place, check the level again, then replace the cap.
I didn't bother trying to remove the bleed screw because it always snaps off. Using the method outlined above should expell the air from the coolant, just keep and eye on it the first few times you drive the car.
Simply undo the bolt's holding it in place, but do not disconnect the coolant hoses. Just place something underneath it to keep it raised up under the bonnet.
Remove the cap, and run the engine. As the engine warms up, the thermostat will open and more trapped air will burp up through the expansion tank. You can help it by squeezing the main coolant hoses, taking care not to scald yourself.
As trapped are burps out, the coolant level will drop so remember to keep it topped up to the max line.
Switch off and when things have cooled, bolt the expansion tank back in place, check the level again, then replace the cap.
I didn't bother trying to remove the bleed screw because it always snaps off. Using the method outlined above should expell the air from the coolant, just keep and eye on it the first few times you drive the car.
So given the state of those o rings, not shocked the fuel injectors were leaking. Three new viton o rings and they no longer seem to be leaking. Bled the coolant as suggested above and took for a quick spin and seems to hold temperature fine. Sure it will be a few journeys before I trust it...
There seems to be a slight clunking noise from the osr, wonder what that is...
Is this the point I can be a smug dick? 
All good learning experiences for the future, of course!
itcaptainslow said:
Make sure you ensure all the mating surfaces are scrupulously clean, and get some manifold o-rings, manifold to head gaskets and injector seals (you have to remove these from the lower inlet manifolds) from DMGRS or similar. Some multi purpose grease to ease everything back together helps, too.
Glad to hear you’ve got it all sorted. They’re a proper fiddly sod to get everything seated right-my fuel rail was weeping when I put mine back together the first time, fortunately it didn’t have to totally come apart to fix but it’s damn disheartening when something doesn’t go right. All good learning experiences for the future, of course!
PrinceRupert said:
There seems to be a slight clunking noise from the osr, wonder what that is...
Broken spring?
It was pressed back into service on the commute today. After what was a reasonably big job for me, I was a little nervous that it was going to overheat in the Blackwall Tunnel, but it performed admirably.
I quite like the juxtaposition in the office car park:
The hot weather over the last few weeks has done a number on the headlining, which was drooping in places before but is now drooping in many more places.
Another problem I've had for a while is a slightly jerky gearbox, seemingly between 1/2 or 2/3. That seems to be getting worse, with quite a firm jerk on certain low gear changes. From a bit of searching, it seems to be a fairly common problem with Jatco gearboxes and may be a couple of solenoids that can be changed easily enough - though without Rover diagnostics, not likely to know which ones. If I just leave it, is it likely to stop working altogether at some point or simply continue to clunk?
I quite like the juxtaposition in the office car park:
The hot weather over the last few weeks has done a number on the headlining, which was drooping in places before but is now drooping in many more places.
Another problem I've had for a while is a slightly jerky gearbox, seemingly between 1/2 or 2/3. That seems to be getting worse, with quite a firm jerk on certain low gear changes. From a bit of searching, it seems to be a fairly common problem with Jatco gearboxes and may be a couple of solenoids that can be changed easily enough - though without Rover diagnostics, not likely to know which ones. If I just leave it, is it likely to stop working altogether at some point or simply continue to clunk?
itcaptainslow said:
Has the gearbox ever had a fluid change?
Not in the last two years with me and I have no history. It seems this is a specialist endeavour with requiring the autobox at a certain temperature etc., and not something straightforward to DIY or to get my local garage to do?
There’s a guide somewhere on the 75/ZT community about being able to diagnose which solenoid is the problem one, using a multimeter. Not sure where it is but a search ought to reveal it.
Getting the correct ATF level into the ‘box afterwards is a bit fiddly, it has to be a certain temperature. I’ve done a couple of ATF changes on my JATCO in the past, but never being entirely satisfied, I’ve had Jules double check it. Talking of which, it’s probably due another ATF change…
Getting the correct ATF level into the ‘box afterwards is a bit fiddly, it has to be a certain temperature. I’ve done a couple of ATF changes on my JATCO in the past, but never being entirely satisfied, I’ve had Jules double check it. Talking of which, it’s probably due another ATF change…
PrinceRupert said:
itcaptainslow said:
Has the gearbox ever had a fluid change?
Not in the last two years with me and I have no history. It seems this is a specialist endeavour with requiring the autobox at a certain temperature etc., and not something straightforward to DIY or to get my local garage to do?
I highly recommend doing it, as it smooths out the changes no end, even on my 38k miler.
So the 75 is driving well, holding temperature even in heavy traffic, no issues in that regard.
The coolant level does however seem to drop intermittently - some journeys it won't drop at all, some it will drop from max to min. These are generally short journeys which is all it has been used for recently. I have looked around with a torch and can't see any obvious evidence of fresh leaks from the thermostat and associated tubes, or from the radiator elsewhere. Could it be air burping its way out of the system as it is being used and driven?
The coolant level does however seem to drop intermittently - some journeys it won't drop at all, some it will drop from max to min. These are generally short journeys which is all it has been used for recently. I have looked around with a torch and can't see any obvious evidence of fresh leaks from the thermostat and associated tubes, or from the radiator elsewhere. Could it be air burping its way out of the system as it is being used and driven?
PrinceRupert said:
So the 75 is driving well, holding temperature even in heavy traffic, no issues in that regard.
The coolant level does however seem to drop intermittently - some journeys it won't drop at all, some it will drop from max to min. These are generally short journeys which is all it has been used for recently. I have looked around with a torch and can't see any obvious evidence of fresh leaks from the thermostat and associated tubes, or from the radiator elsewhere. Could it be air burping its way out of the system as it is being used and driven?
Possibly-did you fill and bleed the system with the expansion tank unbolted and raised?The coolant level does however seem to drop intermittently - some journeys it won't drop at all, some it will drop from max to min. These are generally short journeys which is all it has been used for recently. I have looked around with a torch and can't see any obvious evidence of fresh leaks from the thermostat and associated tubes, or from the radiator elsewhere. Could it be air burping its way out of the system as it is being used and driven?
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