2012 Ford Focus Titanium
Discussion
bungz said:
If reusing the pads I would maybe swap them.
I have had aftermarket pads with really badly shaped backing plates on them that didn't fit that great.
I do think it may be them. They don't fit that well and aren't sliding great. The old brembo pads have plenty of meat on them. I'll swap them and will use lots of red rubber grease on the sliders, then if that doesn't work, new brake hose.I have had aftermarket pads with really badly shaped backing plates on them that didn't fit that great.
I bought them from EuroCarParts, Eicher was the brand. I thought that cheap from a known outlet such as those would be better than cheap on ebay, but I think I've learnt my lesson there. Weirdly even changing the pads and caliper, the brake still gets hotter than the other side. Not by much, but you can tell when you touch the caliper that it's hotter. When spinning the brake disc with the wheel off, you can see the slight wobble in the reflection of the face, so I'm guessing it's warped. Now and again you'll hear a faint repetitive squeak coming from that brake, so my guess is that it's warped so slightly that it's touching the pad as it goes round, hence the squeak and the ever so slight heat compared to the other side.
Either way, it brakes fine, no wobble and no problems. The squeak is very rare, so I can live with it. I'm certainly not buying another set of discs to change it.
The O/S/R are still the Eichers as they haven't caused an issue, aren't making a noise and aren't overheating, so there's no need to change.
The aux belt tensioner has arrived to replace my noisy one, so will be tackling that this week.
Either way, it brakes fine, no wobble and no problems. The squeak is very rare, so I can live with it. I'm certainly not buying another set of discs to change it.
The O/S/R are still the Eichers as they haven't caused an issue, aren't making a noise and aren't overheating, so there's no need to change.
The aux belt tensioner has arrived to replace my noisy one, so will be tackling that this week.
Out with the old
In with the new
The old one was knackered, with a bearing that sounded like a toy car over wood. Was a doddle to replace. Pull the tensioner back with a spanner and slide in a pin (I used a drill bit). Three bolts which you can access from the top, then pull out. New one goes in, three bolts back in place, remove the pin and job done.
The weird hissing noise whilst revving has gone, and I'm now reminded on how quiet this car is for a diesel. The engine's very smooth for what it is, but what's most impressive is the sound proofing in the cabin. Cruising along in as high gear as possible makes for some very relaxing journeys. You genuinely can't hear if the engine is a diesel or not.
Remember the Rim Blade fell off the front right wheel? I've lost it somewhere... can't find it for the life of me, which is annoying. Looks like I'll need to buy another full set for £30. At least I have spares. It fell off due to a previous owner painting the curbing with a paintbrush, so the Rim Blades had stuck to the paint rather than the wheel. When it fell off, the paint was on the rim blade, and it had totally come off the wheel itself. Not a bad thing as it leaves a clean alloy to adhere to next time, rather than someone's touch up paint. The other three wheels seem to be doing very well though.
I've still got an annoying squeak from the brakes. It's a tiny squeak that's in rotation of the wheel. This could be a couple of things. I've either not greased the front left pads enough when I did the caliper change, or it could be coming from the front right which I've not even touched since replacing the discs and pads initially. It doesn't massively bother me, and it's very quiet (you wouldn't hear it over the air con, and it's only now and again). But in the future I'll whip both wheels off and will grease up the brakes. It's either this, or it's due to a warped disc and it's touching the pad slightly as it rotates. But surely I'd feel a shudder whilst breaking? I don't feel anything (which is fantastic), so maybe it's just lack of grease.
I'm only bothered by it as it's quite literally the only thing that's on the car that isn't working or looking perfect. The rest of the car is an absolute dream.
In with the new
The old one was knackered, with a bearing that sounded like a toy car over wood. Was a doddle to replace. Pull the tensioner back with a spanner and slide in a pin (I used a drill bit). Three bolts which you can access from the top, then pull out. New one goes in, three bolts back in place, remove the pin and job done.
The weird hissing noise whilst revving has gone, and I'm now reminded on how quiet this car is for a diesel. The engine's very smooth for what it is, but what's most impressive is the sound proofing in the cabin. Cruising along in as high gear as possible makes for some very relaxing journeys. You genuinely can't hear if the engine is a diesel or not.
Remember the Rim Blade fell off the front right wheel? I've lost it somewhere... can't find it for the life of me, which is annoying. Looks like I'll need to buy another full set for £30. At least I have spares. It fell off due to a previous owner painting the curbing with a paintbrush, so the Rim Blades had stuck to the paint rather than the wheel. When it fell off, the paint was on the rim blade, and it had totally come off the wheel itself. Not a bad thing as it leaves a clean alloy to adhere to next time, rather than someone's touch up paint. The other three wheels seem to be doing very well though.
I've still got an annoying squeak from the brakes. It's a tiny squeak that's in rotation of the wheel. This could be a couple of things. I've either not greased the front left pads enough when I did the caliper change, or it could be coming from the front right which I've not even touched since replacing the discs and pads initially. It doesn't massively bother me, and it's very quiet (you wouldn't hear it over the air con, and it's only now and again). But in the future I'll whip both wheels off and will grease up the brakes. It's either this, or it's due to a warped disc and it's touching the pad slightly as it rotates. But surely I'd feel a shudder whilst breaking? I don't feel anything (which is fantastic), so maybe it's just lack of grease.
I'm only bothered by it as it's quite literally the only thing that's on the car that isn't working or looking perfect. The rest of the car is an absolute dream.
More brake stuff.
Here's what's happened:
- Bought the car
- Brakes were shuddering whilst in use
- Changed discs and pads after suspected rust (mistake!)
- N/S/F brake started to shudder and get hot again after 100 miles
- Changed caliper - cured
The brakes work fine, they don't shudder at all.
But now...
- Brake now squeaks a little with every rotation of the wheel whilst driving
- Disc only wearing on the middle/outside
- Caliper still hotter than the other side, but not 'binding' hot
I guess it's the pad that's been worn uneven due to the old caliper binding, but now my (original) slider pins aren't releasing the pad enough, and is constantly catching on top, hence the squeak, heat and uneven disc wear. The pins looked absolutely fine though, but for the sake of £5 I've ordered some new ones.
I hope I don't have to have new discs and pads - again.
Here's what's happened:
- Bought the car
- Brakes were shuddering whilst in use
- Changed discs and pads after suspected rust (mistake!)
- N/S/F brake started to shudder and get hot again after 100 miles
- Changed caliper - cured
The brakes work fine, they don't shudder at all.
But now...
- Brake now squeaks a little with every rotation of the wheel whilst driving
- Disc only wearing on the middle/outside
- Caliper still hotter than the other side, but not 'binding' hot
I guess it's the pad that's been worn uneven due to the old caliper binding, but now my (original) slider pins aren't releasing the pad enough, and is constantly catching on top, hence the squeak, heat and uneven disc wear. The pins looked absolutely fine though, but for the sake of £5 I've ordered some new ones.
I hope I don't have to have new discs and pads - again.
Adam-8b6jv said:
Nice to see URJ again that was my Dad’s company car when it was new we had it for 4 years. I was in my early 20’s then and used to use it to go clubbing on the town etc to save my own car lol even took it to the V festival for the weekend. It had many a family holiday to the Isle of Wight and Devon too. We never had any problems with it mechanically it did 80,000 miles with us over 4 years. The only issue we had was the tailgate rusting around the chrome handle which Ford were going to fix but a bloke in a Mondeo fixed it by smashing into the rear of the car instead so a new tailgate was used. Glad to see it’s still going brings back many happy memories.
That's fantastic to hear! So weird too as they loved their old Focus, and always used to go the Isle of White for family holidays back in the day. I'll have to tell them when I see them this evening, they'll be happy to hear.So, brake issues. Still.
After replacing the caliper, I've got this squeaking coming from the brake that goes when I apply the brakes. I've just taken it all apart, cleaned it all with a wire brush, tried different pads (the Brembo's from the other side that I took off) and put brand new sliding pins on.
The squeaking is 99% gone, and you can only hear it going about 10mph close to a wall. It's barely audible, so I'm happy with that and can live with it. However I did notice that the inner part of the outside face of the disc isn't being worn, and the outer part of the inside face is the same. So I had a look.
The caliper is on an angle?!
It's slight, but it's definitely on an angle. The caliper is bolted onto the carrier on an angle! Which is causing the section of the disc not to wear. It also most likely explains the squeaking as there's a section of the pad constantly in touch with the disc (also why it's warmer than the other side). I literally can't explain why a brand new caliper is on an angle though. It seems as if the sliding pins are straight, but the caliper holes that they go through aren't.
Eventually the pads will wear to match the angle, and the disc will be used in its entirety. The squeaking is barely there too, so if nothing gets worse then I'll just keep it as is. If it does get worse however, I've still got the old caliper so I'll buy a rebuilt kit and will rebuild it. I may even put the old caliper back on as a test fit to see if that's in fact on an angle.
Such a simple job has turned out to be such a pain in the ***.
After replacing the caliper, I've got this squeaking coming from the brake that goes when I apply the brakes. I've just taken it all apart, cleaned it all with a wire brush, tried different pads (the Brembo's from the other side that I took off) and put brand new sliding pins on.
The squeaking is 99% gone, and you can only hear it going about 10mph close to a wall. It's barely audible, so I'm happy with that and can live with it. However I did notice that the inner part of the outside face of the disc isn't being worn, and the outer part of the inside face is the same. So I had a look.
The caliper is on an angle?!
It's slight, but it's definitely on an angle. The caliper is bolted onto the carrier on an angle! Which is causing the section of the disc not to wear. It also most likely explains the squeaking as there's a section of the pad constantly in touch with the disc (also why it's warmer than the other side). I literally can't explain why a brand new caliper is on an angle though. It seems as if the sliding pins are straight, but the caliper holes that they go through aren't.
Eventually the pads will wear to match the angle, and the disc will be used in its entirety. The squeaking is barely there too, so if nothing gets worse then I'll just keep it as is. If it does get worse however, I've still got the old caliper so I'll buy a rebuilt kit and will rebuild it. I may even put the old caliper back on as a test fit to see if that's in fact on an angle.
Such a simple job has turned out to be such a pain in the ***.
Turns out the caliper was on an angle due to an ill-fitted clip (my fault). Nevertheless, after adjusting, greasing and cleaning, the noise is still there. It's essentially a scraping/scratching noise that happens twice per rotation of the wheel, and a quieter scrape that happens in between, also twice per rotation, meaning there's a scratch/scrape four times per rotation. As suspected, a warped disc pushing the pads. I took the wheel off and spun the brake disc, and the reflection wobbles along with it. The other side is fine, along with my MX-5 which the reflection of the disc doesn't move at all. This has confirmed that the disc is warped, and that it's catching on the pads. Finally an answer.
Rather than trying to faff around, I've just ordered a brand new set of discs and pads. Again. I was quite reluctant from only recently replacing them, but it was a mistake in doing so.
Essentially, I replaced the discs and pads before replacing the binding caliper, and drove to Cornwall on it, which ruined the new disc, hence the problems. Now that it has a new caliper, new boots and new slighting bolts, it's best to just throw a new disc and set of pads on it too.
Question though. The brake disc and pads on the other side are around 1,000-2,000 miles old. Probably a couple of months. Do I replace these too? The new brakes came in a full set, so I could either replace the almost-new side so that both fronts are identical, or just leave it be as it's relatively new?
Rather than trying to faff around, I've just ordered a brand new set of discs and pads. Again. I was quite reluctant from only recently replacing them, but it was a mistake in doing so.
Essentially, I replaced the discs and pads before replacing the binding caliper, and drove to Cornwall on it, which ruined the new disc, hence the problems. Now that it has a new caliper, new boots and new slighting bolts, it's best to just throw a new disc and set of pads on it too.
Question though. The brake disc and pads on the other side are around 1,000-2,000 miles old. Probably a couple of months. Do I replace these too? The new brakes came in a full set, so I could either replace the almost-new side so that both fronts are identical, or just leave it be as it's relatively new?
GIYess said:
If they have a fairly flat surface I'd say pads will be grand.
My first thought when reading the brake woes was the slider pins but I see you have looked at them. You maybe more experienced than me at brakes but having lots of Japanese stuff I have met about every problem brakes can throw at you! Do the slide pins right in and out freely? I've had a few that will jam when pushed right in and caused the brakes to bind. Needed a new caliper carrier.
Sliding pins are perfect, caliper doesn't overheat anymore, it's greased well too. The pins go through rubber boots so it's all lovely and free, but I think the damage had been done and now the disc is warped and is catching the pads as it rotates. I've got the discs/pads waiting to go on, just waiting for some good weather.My first thought when reading the brake woes was the slider pins but I see you have looked at them. You maybe more experienced than me at brakes but having lots of Japanese stuff I have met about every problem brakes can throw at you! Do the slide pins right in and out freely? I've had a few that will jam when pushed right in and caused the brakes to bind. Needed a new caliper carrier.
I'm slowly loosing my mind here.
This was the old disc:
You can clearly see the brake pads are being applied on an angle, which could be down to the pads being worn incorrectly, or the disc wearing incorrectly, all from the old binding caliper. This started after I put the new caliper on, and even after new pins and pin boots, it was still wearing like this. Assuming that the old caliper had just worn the disc/pads incorrectly, today I put on a new disc and a new set of pads.
But guess what:
The new disc is doing the same thing.
It's not making any sounds this time, but it's not wearing on the inner part of the outside face, and not wearing on the outer part of the inside face, showing that it's still braking on an angle still.
So a new caliper, new pins, new boots, new disc and pads, and it's still wearing on an angle. This has only started with the new caliper, so at this point I'm thinking that the new caliper is at fault here, and the piston is coming out on an angle.
I'm going to buy a rebuild kit to rebuild the original binding caliper, and will also pick up a used carrier to ensure that mine's not somehow out of shape.
After I do this, it'll all be new. It's impossible for it to still be wearing on an angle with the old caliper rebuilt sitting on a new carrier.
But with my luck...
This was the old disc:
You can clearly see the brake pads are being applied on an angle, which could be down to the pads being worn incorrectly, or the disc wearing incorrectly, all from the old binding caliper. This started after I put the new caliper on, and even after new pins and pin boots, it was still wearing like this. Assuming that the old caliper had just worn the disc/pads incorrectly, today I put on a new disc and a new set of pads.
But guess what:
The new disc is doing the same thing.
It's not making any sounds this time, but it's not wearing on the inner part of the outside face, and not wearing on the outer part of the inside face, showing that it's still braking on an angle still.
So a new caliper, new pins, new boots, new disc and pads, and it's still wearing on an angle. This has only started with the new caliper, so at this point I'm thinking that the new caliper is at fault here, and the piston is coming out on an angle.
I'm going to buy a rebuild kit to rebuild the original binding caliper, and will also pick up a used carrier to ensure that mine's not somehow out of shape.
After I do this, it'll all be new. It's impossible for it to still be wearing on an angle with the old caliper rebuilt sitting on a new carrier.
But with my luck...
bungz said:
That's a right pain in the arse.
If it was me I would prob get a scrapper caliper and carrier, it obviously isn't sitting right at all.
I would maybe avoid the cheap reman stuff and just get a used genuine one, they are dirt cheap on the bay.
This is what the plan is, except I'll rebuild my original caliper that I still have. A rebuild kit is cheap and I've done it before, so I know it'll function well. I'll pick up a second hand carrier too, and will also buy new sliding pin boots as the previous new ones may be warped due to the newish caliper being bad. Should all be sitting fine after this.If it was me I would prob get a scrapper caliper and carrier, it obviously isn't sitting right at all.
I would maybe avoid the cheap reman stuff and just get a used genuine one, they are dirt cheap on the bay.
Drives well though with no sounds, so there's no rush.
GIYess said:
Can I suggest one more thing if you don't mind.
The spring clip, that sits in two holes in the caliper and over the caliper carrier, could it be out of shape?
I think you may be onto something here. I don't know why I didn't compare the 'look' of the calipers before, from side to side. Doing so yesterday, I found one was sitting differently.The spring clip, that sits in two holes in the caliper and over the caliper carrier, could it be out of shape?
This is the O/S/F caliper, that's functioning perfectly:
This is the N/S/F caliper, that's not using the inner part of the disc:
You can see there's a much bigger gap as it's not being pulled towards the carrier as much as the other side. This could well be down to that clip, so I'm going to swap the clip with the other side and take it for a drive to see if that fixes it.
Any other ideas as to why it's sitting like this if it's not the clip?
bungz said:
The reason the spring looks wonky is because you can see the caliper is skewed in the carrier, something not right with it.
The spring looks wonky? I can't see a difference between the two photos, they look the same to me. The only difference I see is the caliper sitting higher. I'm not sure if this is because of the clip itself not pulling it down as far as it should, or because of a bad carrier.What I may do is put old binding caliper back on as a test fit. I won't link it up to the brake line, I'll just bolt it up as if it's a finished job - clip, pads, etc. I'll see where it sits as if it sits the same, it has to be the clip or carrier. If it sits lower then it could well be that the holes which the sliding bolt boots fit into aren't straight on the new caliper.
I'm struggling to think what else it could be.
bungz said:
From the picture it looks like it isn't sitting flush because the caliper doesn't look to be sitting true.
Swap it back see if you can get the old one to sit nicely, may be better if it has tension on it though from being hooked up though.
I see. The other side looks the same to be in the photos mind, but I could be looking at something different.Swap it back see if you can get the old one to sit nicely, may be better if it has tension on it though from being hooked up though.
It's alright I'll be hooking up the old one fully, the clip and everything, just not the brake hose (the other caliper will be connected to it, hanging out of the way) so I can see how it would sit. I have a shock absorber to replace on my MX-5 first, and then I'll be tackling this.
I've never had such a simple job turn into such a mess.
bungz said:
Sorry to keep replying to this but just look at the caliper, the quality of the casting is awful compared to the original
The area that the spring goes into is completely different...
Lob it in the bin.
Not at all! It's all helping.The area that the spring goes into is completely different...
Lob it in the bin.
I painted the good side silver, the new caliper is silver that hasn't been painted, so it looks a little different. But you're right in saying about the area that the clip goes into. Hadn't noticed that before...
I'll hook up the old caliper. If it sits good then I'll rebuild it with new a piston and seals.
Before I sort the caliper problem out, I have a new problem. Engine problems!
Very strange tapping (or very light knocking) noise. Has only started a few weeks ago, but the main thing is that it doesn't happen all the time. It does happen more than not, but some days the engine is totally smooth without this tapping at all. Very inconsistent.
Here's what it sounds like from the inside:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZX0rgrFKec
Here's what it sounds like from the outside (the noise doesn't come from the belt area):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcyftgbnG4E
It's on 141,000 miles and had its timing belt replaced about a year ago. Full service with oil change was around April. Engine's oil level is normal and there's no leaks around the engine.
One thing: the temperature gauge only seems to heat up to about 25% on the gauge, and it fluctuates now and again. This seems to be a bad thermostat which I'm going to replace soon, but I thought I'd throw it out there in case it's somehow weirdly related to this noise.
Very strange tapping (or very light knocking) noise. Has only started a few weeks ago, but the main thing is that it doesn't happen all the time. It does happen more than not, but some days the engine is totally smooth without this tapping at all. Very inconsistent.
Here's what it sounds like from the inside:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZX0rgrFKec
Here's what it sounds like from the outside (the noise doesn't come from the belt area):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcyftgbnG4E
It's on 141,000 miles and had its timing belt replaced about a year ago. Full service with oil change was around April. Engine's oil level is normal and there's no leaks around the engine.
One thing: the temperature gauge only seems to heat up to about 25% on the gauge, and it fluctuates now and again. This seems to be a bad thermostat which I'm going to replace soon, but I thought I'd throw it out there in case it's somehow weirdly related to this noise.
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