2006 Mazda MX-5 NC 2.0 Sport
Discussion
geraintthomas said:
TheJimi said:
Sorry, just realised I misspelled your name. Now fixed!
and yes, good to hear that it's clean.
At least you didn't think I was a cyclist!and yes, good to hear that it's clean.
RelentlessForwardProgress said:
Geraint, great work on the MX5. Did you find inserting the SD micro card to the camera difficult? I ordered on the back of your recommendation and can’t for the life of me get the card to click on. Thanks for any advice- Amazon just suggest sending a replacement.
Try using your nail to click it in as far as it can go. I've got two and didn't have any issues with them so it could be the card catch itself?
The knocking is still on my mind. Normal every day driving, you can't hear it. Even going over some bumps in the road, it's completely silent. Driving over speed bumps, or driving slowly off a curb, causes the knock. Essentially it's when the suspension is at it's most extreme, no matter what the speed.
It sounds like it's the top mounts; imagine there's a gap which when driving over bumps, pushes the suspension upwards and the gap opens and closes, causing the knock. That's just what it sounds like, it may well not be that at all.
The garage found no loose arms or bolts, and I couldn't find any myself either. However when I took the wheel off today I took some photos of the two upper wishbone bushes, and the lower one too.
Passenger side, top left:
Top right:
Lower:
The lower one doesn't look too bad, but the upper bushes look quite worse for wear. This makes me think of when I bought the car, the fact that the car had spend 11 months on suspension that wasn't pre-loaded, causing the bushes to keep the car at a higher ride height, which damages the bushes. I'm thinking whether these bushes are causing the knock due to their condition. I'm tempted to get polybush replacements as not only would they be better for track use, but they're far easier to install (two halfes go into the wishbone).
Would anyone have any suggestions what the knock is? Unless you agree it's most likely these bushes? Any way to confirm?
It sounds like it's the top mounts; imagine there's a gap which when driving over bumps, pushes the suspension upwards and the gap opens and closes, causing the knock. That's just what it sounds like, it may well not be that at all.
The garage found no loose arms or bolts, and I couldn't find any myself either. However when I took the wheel off today I took some photos of the two upper wishbone bushes, and the lower one too.
Passenger side, top left:
Top right:
Lower:
The lower one doesn't look too bad, but the upper bushes look quite worse for wear. This makes me think of when I bought the car, the fact that the car had spend 11 months on suspension that wasn't pre-loaded, causing the bushes to keep the car at a higher ride height, which damages the bushes. I'm thinking whether these bushes are causing the knock due to their condition. I'm tempted to get polybush replacements as not only would they be better for track use, but they're far easier to install (two halfes go into the wishbone).
Would anyone have any suggestions what the knock is? Unless you agree it's most likely these bushes? Any way to confirm?
I think it's unlikely to be suspension bushes, they don't look overly worn to me. Top mounts would also be unlikely I think. The MX5 design is very simple, just two rubber rings sandwiched either side of the metal top mount (only takes the damper loads, spring loads go directly into the body). So there isn't a lot to clonk in this design, and if it was that, I think you'd hear it constantly.
How are the ARB drop links and bushes looking? I had a clonk in certain conditions, particularly when dry scrubbing lock to lock. Turned out to be an unusual drop link failure, not play in the ball joint itself, but rather the plastic race had actually become loose in the link. (These were 'Meyle HD' ones, replaced with genuine Mazda, not had a problem since).
I put it down to the fact that there was a drop link design change from the earliest cars. My theory is that the earliest cars with their higher ride height may have had a slightly different range of articulation angle of the joints, so my car being lowered was pushing them to the limit of their travel at certain combinations of wheel travel/steering lock, causing the race to pull out of the link. (Or Mazda simply got the articulation angles wrong on the original design, and corrected this on later cars)
Just a theory! In my experience having had many cars with suspension knocks, ARB links and bushes are the first thing I inspect & are often the cause.
How are the ARB drop links and bushes looking? I had a clonk in certain conditions, particularly when dry scrubbing lock to lock. Turned out to be an unusual drop link failure, not play in the ball joint itself, but rather the plastic race had actually become loose in the link. (These were 'Meyle HD' ones, replaced with genuine Mazda, not had a problem since).
I put it down to the fact that there was a drop link design change from the earliest cars. My theory is that the earliest cars with their higher ride height may have had a slightly different range of articulation angle of the joints, so my car being lowered was pushing them to the limit of their travel at certain combinations of wheel travel/steering lock, causing the race to pull out of the link. (Or Mazda simply got the articulation angles wrong on the original design, and corrected this on later cars)
Just a theory! In my experience having had many cars with suspension knocks, ARB links and bushes are the first thing I inspect & are often the cause.
The suspension bushes will be fine, and you really dont want to use Polybush replacements on a road car.
Top moounts are unlikely as they are not a bearing mount like a car with struts, its literally a plate bolted to the monocoque that has no part in steering or wheel lcoating loads - just suspension movement. The only thing that goes wrong with them is people miss off the plastic gasket/shims when changing the shocks and they squeak as its metal on metal.
ARB drop links are by a country mile the most likely suspect.
Top moounts are unlikely as they are not a bearing mount like a car with struts, its literally a plate bolted to the monocoque that has no part in steering or wheel lcoating loads - just suspension movement. The only thing that goes wrong with them is people miss off the plastic gasket/shims when changing the shocks and they squeak as its metal on metal.
ARB drop links are by a country mile the most likely suspect.
arb droplinks are normally the culprit for knocking over bumps.
A good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
A good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
My wishbone bushes looked similar, they made no untoward noises but looked very scruffy so I polybushed them when I was changing my struts. I regret it a little, the ride is fine but I'm not sure the polybushes function in the same way as the OE bushes that are designed to be clamped in place with the car on the ground and then twist as the suspension moves. I can't see how a solid lump of poly could ever twist like that, I think most of the aftermarket bushes rely on the bush rotating slightly within the wishbone, which is probably fine until the grease used during installation washes away or dries out. I've bought a set of used wishbones with reasonable OE bushes that I'll probably revert to the next time I take the suspension apart.
ARB bushes and droplinks are a good shout. Worth changing (and cheap) if they haven't been done for a while. If they have been changed recently check that the bolts are still tight, I had one back off a little and start clunking.
If they've been on there a while you'll probably end up cutting the old droplinks off. A cheap nut splitter works really well as there can be limited access for a grinder - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-PC70-Splitter-...
ARB bushes and droplinks are a good shout. Worth changing (and cheap) if they haven't been done for a while. If they have been changed recently check that the bolts are still tight, I had one back off a little and start clunking.
If they've been on there a while you'll probably end up cutting the old droplinks off. A cheap nut splitter works really well as there can be limited access for a grinder - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-PC70-Splitter-...
shalmaneser said:
arb droplinks are normally the culprit for knocking over bumps.
A good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
Good way to fA good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
k up your door hinges by using door as a lever!TheJimi said:
shalmaneser said:
arb droplinks are normally the culprit for knocking over bumps.
A good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
Good way to fA good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
k up your door hinges by using door as a lever!I did consider adding a disclaimer for the hard of thinking but considered it unnecessary. Thanks for clearing that up.
shalmaneser said:
TheJimi said:
shalmaneser said:
arb droplinks are normally the culprit for knocking over bumps.
A good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
Good way to fA good trick is to open the car door, then use that as a lever to get the car bouncing. You can quite often find the frequency the clunk occurs at, then it's just a question of getting a long-suffering partner to wobble the door as you climb under the vehicle to locate the source of the clunk.
The other option is just to leave it until it gets worse and so easier to figure out where it's coming from!
k up your door hinges by using door as a lever!I did consider adding a disclaimer for the hard of thinking but considered it unnecessary. Thanks for clearing that up.
k up your door hinges. What part of that statement is incorrect, and worthy of the "for the hard of thinking" snipe?Had quite substantial rattling coming from the dash and found that if I push in the radio, it stops entirely.
It was coming from this area
I've removed all screws, placed padding (numberplate adhesive tape) underneath, and screwed everything back.
I've also padded these areas
It's silent. It's also surprising the difference it makes on what you think the quality of the ride is like. Seems quite a bit more 'plush', even though it's just some rattles that have gone. Even so, if anyone has a rattly MX-5 radio, try that.
Have a look how quiet it is:
Lovely stuff. Anyway, brakes up next.
It was coming from this area
I've removed all screws, placed padding (numberplate adhesive tape) underneath, and screwed everything back.
I've also padded these areas
It's silent. It's also surprising the difference it makes on what you think the quality of the ride is like. Seems quite a bit more 'plush', even though it's just some rattles that have gone. Even so, if anyone has a rattly MX-5 radio, try that.
Have a look how quiet it is:
Lovely stuff. Anyway, brakes up next.
I'm a sucker for a good diffuser at the rear of a car, and the NC's standard 'diffuser' is a little disappointing. Granted, it's never meant to be one, but the plastic area on the rear bumper certainly sparks some ideas.
I'm giving something a try with some universal diffuser fins from ebay. They should arrive today so I'll stick them temporarily in place and will take some photos. I'm quietly confident, but the last thing I'd want is for it to look tacky. If it works, it'll be a good visual upgrade for £9. Far cheaper than the full-on diffuser for £150 on ebay (though that is quite beautiful).
I'm also getting closer to purchasing the suspension after constantly staring at the wheel arch on this car...
I'm putting it back purely to drive it on track as standard first, but I'm constantly thinking of the reasons for this. It will obviously handle better than standard, I've replaced suspension on previous cars and don't need a track day to figure that out. It was being held off purely to give myself a bigger appreciation for the upgrade after tracking it standard.
But that arch gap...
I'm giving something a try with some universal diffuser fins from ebay. They should arrive today so I'll stick them temporarily in place and will take some photos. I'm quietly confident, but the last thing I'd want is for it to look tacky. If it works, it'll be a good visual upgrade for £9. Far cheaper than the full-on diffuser for £150 on ebay (though that is quite beautiful).
I'm also getting closer to purchasing the suspension after constantly staring at the wheel arch on this car...
I'm putting it back purely to drive it on track as standard first, but I'm constantly thinking of the reasons for this. It will obviously handle better than standard, I've replaced suspension on previous cars and don't need a track day to figure that out. It was being held off purely to give myself a bigger appreciation for the upgrade after tracking it standard.
But that arch gap...
Great to hear that the suspension is that good, I think I'm inclined to buy it sooner rather than later.
I've priced up what I'll be purchasing:
- StopTech front & rear pads
- Brembo front & rear discs
- Eibach Pro 30/35mm springs
All comes to around £435, with Eurocarparts' never ending deals for the discs. The StopTech pads are Ebay (can't seem to source them elsewhere) and the Eibach springs are DemonTweeks (cheaper than MX-5 Parts and Ebay).
I'd happily buy Brembo OE replacement pads for the new discs, but having heard how fast road pads wear through on track, it's probably best I uprate them to something like these. Also a bit of a shame on GreenStuff pads, had high hopes for those and they worked well on my previous Celica.
I'll let you know once I order everything. Once this is all fitted, it'll be time for some tasty cosmetics (wheels, calipers, rear diffuser, door decals, and some interior changes too).
I've priced up what I'll be purchasing:
- StopTech front & rear pads
- Brembo front & rear discs
- Eibach Pro 30/35mm springs
All comes to around £435, with Eurocarparts' never ending deals for the discs. The StopTech pads are Ebay (can't seem to source them elsewhere) and the Eibach springs are DemonTweeks (cheaper than MX-5 Parts and Ebay).
I'd happily buy Brembo OE replacement pads for the new discs, but having heard how fast road pads wear through on track, it's probably best I uprate them to something like these. Also a bit of a shame on GreenStuff pads, had high hopes for those and they worked well on my previous Celica.
I'll let you know once I order everything. Once this is all fitted, it'll be time for some tasty cosmetics (wheels, calipers, rear diffuser, door decals, and some interior changes too).
If your buying from euro car parts then check www.carparts4less.Co.Uk. Same company same parts just cheaper.
sdh2903 said:
If your buying from euro car parts then check www.carparts4less.Co.Uk. Same company same parts just cheaper.
Wait... how on earth does that work? You're right, it's identical and I've saved about £30, but why would they do that?Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff