2006 Mazda MX-5 NC 2.0 Sport
Discussion
Thanks, definitely what I was going for, and by the convenient size of the vents I'd wager Mazda were too.
Annoyingly I have an issue, and that's with the temperatures. After 40 minutes of driving they're reading the following:
Idle: 78c
Around town: 74c
Motorway: 68c
After some research, it looks like the issue is that it's reading the temperature of the oil sump pan more than the oil, which is susceptible to wind chill. If you look at the photo below you can see that it can't stick out of the top, and due to the inner taper of the sump plug, it can't go all the way in:
So to help with this, I can either buy a longer sensor (which I can't find anywhere) or a stumpier non-tapered sump plug. So I've bought something similar to this:
Should be shorter and not tapered, which would allow the sensor to sit further in.
On another note, I've modelled and 3D printed a set of dash gauges that fit into the dash speaker hole, just to see if they came out alright.
They did:
I've bought a cheap 52mm ebay gauge just to test fit, and if it works then this could be another option. All that it would need is to re-print in PETG or Nylon (heat resistance inside the cabin on warm days, this material would melt) and to be sprayed a textured matt black.
I think I'll pass on these, mainly because the gauge that's currently in there is spot on and looks the part, but if anyone wants to print these I'll happily give them the 3D file for free.
Annoyingly I have an issue, and that's with the temperatures. After 40 minutes of driving they're reading the following:
Idle: 78c
Around town: 74c
Motorway: 68c
After some research, it looks like the issue is that it's reading the temperature of the oil sump pan more than the oil, which is susceptible to wind chill. If you look at the photo below you can see that it can't stick out of the top, and due to the inner taper of the sump plug, it can't go all the way in:
So to help with this, I can either buy a longer sensor (which I can't find anywhere) or a stumpier non-tapered sump plug. So I've bought something similar to this:
Should be shorter and not tapered, which would allow the sensor to sit further in.
On another note, I've modelled and 3D printed a set of dash gauges that fit into the dash speaker hole, just to see if they came out alright.
They did:
I've bought a cheap 52mm ebay gauge just to test fit, and if it works then this could be another option. All that it would need is to re-print in PETG or Nylon (heat resistance inside the cabin on warm days, this material would melt) and to be sprayed a textured matt black.
I think I'll pass on these, mainly because the gauge that's currently in there is spot on and looks the part, but if anyone wants to print these I'll happily give them the 3D file for free.
I think what you're doing is brilliant. I bought myself an 08 NC 2.0 Sport in March and am itching to start playing with it. But exactly like you, I want it to appear OEM+ with genuinely improved parts, rather than for any particular "look".
And you're right, the best performance improvement someone can make to their car is getting the driver up to speed! (which I am certainly, not!!)
That said, a BBR trip does appeal
Keep up the good work - and keep posting!
And you're right, the best performance improvement someone can make to their car is getting the driver up to speed! (which I am certainly, not!!)
That said, a BBR trip does appeal
Keep up the good work - and keep posting!
I need to consolidate down to one car for....reasons. You've made me want one of these so badly. So much so, I'm about to buy one with a load of surface rust on the underside that will take some serious tidying up, but it's dirt cheap 
I too will be going from a 986 Boxster S. I was going to get another MK3 MR2 but reading you talk about how good the MX5 is has turned me on to them 
That means anything bad that happens with the one I buy is your fault, btw
I too will be going from a 986 Boxster S. I was going to get another MK3 MR2 but reading you talk about how good the MX5 is has turned me on to them That means anything bad that happens with the one I buy is your fault, btw
Jeenyus161 said:
I think what you're doing is brilliant. I bought myself an 08 NC 2.0 Sport in March and am itching to start playing with it. But exactly like you, I want it to appear OEM+ with genuinely improved parts, rather than for any particular "look".
And you're right, the best performance improvement someone can make to their car is getting the driver up to speed! (which I am certainly, not!!)
That said, a BBR trip does appeal
Keep up the good work - and keep posting!
Many thanks for the kind words, there's always bits to improve that you know you'll make use of; suspension, better brakes, and so on. I'd love the Super 200 package but I think the 180 package is what I'll be going for, but will be doing it myself. Pipercross filter is already there, it just needs the IL Motorsport headers and a remap.And you're right, the best performance improvement someone can make to their car is getting the driver up to speed! (which I am certainly, not!!)
That said, a BBR trip does appeal
Keep up the good work - and keep posting!
Rockets7 said:
,could I have the make / model of the steam cleaner please OP?
Yes of course, it's a Kärcher SC 4 EasyFix.TroubledSoul said:
I need to consolidate down to one car for....reasons. You've made me want one of these so badly. So much so, I'm about to buy one with a load of surface rust on the underside that will take some serious tidying up, but it's dirt cheap I too will be going from a 986 Boxster S. I was going to get another MK3 MR2 but reading you talk about how good the MX5 is has turned me on to them
That means anything bad that happens with the one I buy is your fault, btw
Be careful buying one with a lot of surface rust! Lots of people told me that it's the rust you can't see is the worrying part, so unless you're handy with aluminium and a welder, it may be a good idea to get a good example one. They are out there, I got this one with no rust at all and 43,000 on the clock for £3,500 to give perspective. I too will be going from a 986 Boxster S. I was going to get another MK3 MR2 but reading you talk about how good the MX5 is has turned me on to them That means anything bad that happens with the one I buy is your fault, btw
The MR2's are great cars, but I used to have a Celica with the same 1.8 VVT-i engine, so unless you get the end-of-line models of the MK3 MR-2, they'll be oil burners. They all suffer bad piston ring designs. The other option would be to deliberately buy one with a failed/knocking engine for cheap, buy a 2ZZ-GE engine from the Celica VVTL-i (or Elise S2 111R, same engine) and pay to have a swap done. I'm told the swap isn't that expensive at all, and you'd end up with an outstanding combination of a mid-engined Toyota with that engine. My second Celica had the 2ZZ-GE and is the best engine in a car I've owned, hands down.
But to be honest, as you've probably seen in the 30 pages, these MX-5's are absolutely fantastic
Got round to replacing the sump plug today with a better adapter. I've purchased a much shorter and brass sump plug. The shorter size will allow the sensor to protrude out of the top, and it'll heat up better with the oil as brass is a better conductor of heat than steel.
You can see how short the new one is in comparison to the old.
Much better. I've also used thread lock on the sensor thread to ensure a good seal.
All in, no leaks.
That's better. I'm now getting 80c motorway, 83c casual driving and 87c stop/start right after the motorway trip. Seems spot on.
The whole job came to about £55, which for the information you're getting is worth its weight in gold. Not just for track use, but for convenience to know when the oil is up to running temperature so that you can push the car. It gets to running temperature much later than coolant, especially in an NC as the coolant gauge is fake.
There's a person who's replaced the fake oil pressure gauge in the dials with a real one, fitting a pressure sensor at the original oil switch location, and putting the original needle onto an aftermarket gauge. Worked a charm, and it's something I'd love to attempt at some point.
You can see how short the new one is in comparison to the old.
Much better. I've also used thread lock on the sensor thread to ensure a good seal.
All in, no leaks.
That's better. I'm now getting 80c motorway, 83c casual driving and 87c stop/start right after the motorway trip. Seems spot on.
The whole job came to about £55, which for the information you're getting is worth its weight in gold. Not just for track use, but for convenience to know when the oil is up to running temperature so that you can push the car. It gets to running temperature much later than coolant, especially in an NC as the coolant gauge is fake.
There's a person who's replaced the fake oil pressure gauge in the dials with a real one, fitting a pressure sensor at the original oil switch location, and putting the original needle onto an aftermarket gauge. Worked a charm, and it's something I'd love to attempt at some point.
Edited by geraintthomas on Tuesday 10th August 21:49
I was going to 2ZZ one tbh. I know all about the oil burning, the pre cats, the lot. Had plenty of them. So, so good handling wise, but for me a serious lack of feedback through the steering, hence time to try something different! I'd say the Boxster also lacks feel through the steering, don't know if you'd agree?
TroubledSoul said:
I was going to 2ZZ one tbh. I know all about the oil burning, the pre cats, the lot. Had plenty of them. So, so good handling wise, but for me a serious lack of feedback through the steering, hence time to try something different! I'd say the Boxster also lacks feel through the steering, don't know if you'd agree?
The steering was good, but wasn't anything more than that. It just didn't feel engaging, and for the longest time I was kidding myself because it was my car and I'd wanted one for such a long time. But needs changed over the years and I found myself wanting the MX-5 more, and I don't regret it at all.The 2zz option is a monster! Do it...
Really neat, works well And good job on making sure it is working as you want it, and modify it along the journey
For the brake cooling ducts, I had a look too: looks great and give some more "sporty/track" DNA. But.... I also read that some "performance" brake do need to get into a bit of temperature to be really efficient. Downside of cooling ducts is if you go for a drive in winter, with performance brakes installed: the first few braking might be a bit "low" as the brakes will be cold and the cooling duct will make them even colder... "glazing" effect sort of things...
And good job on making sure it is working as you want it, and modify it along the journey For the brake cooling ducts, I had a look too: looks great and give some more "sporty/track" DNA. But.... I also read that some "performance" brake do need to get into a bit of temperature to be really efficient. Downside of cooling ducts is if you go for a drive in winter, with performance brakes installed: the first few braking might be a bit "low" as the brakes will be cold and the cooling duct will make them even colder... "glazing" effect sort of things...
cedrichn said:
Really neat, works well And good job on making sure it is working as you want it, and modify it along the journey
For the brake cooling ducts, I had a look too: looks great and give some more "sporty/track" DNA. But.... I also read that some "performance" brake do need to get into a bit of temperature to be really efficient. Downside of cooling ducts is if you go for a drive in winter, with performance brakes installed: the first few braking might be a bit "low" as the brakes will be cold and the cooling duct will make them even colder... "glazing" effect sort of things...
I did think of this, and was tempted to create almost a valve/shutter so I could regulate the cooling if it's a tad too much. They're not so bad for you to notice poor performance on cold, they work well straight away, but they certainly come into their own when heated up. Would hate to loose that so I'll definitely have a think about it. Cheers for the heads up. And good job on making sure it is working as you want it, and modify it along the journey For the brake cooling ducts, I had a look too: looks great and give some more "sporty/track" DNA. But.... I also read that some "performance" brake do need to get into a bit of temperature to be really efficient. Downside of cooling ducts is if you go for a drive in winter, with performance brakes installed: the first few braking might be a bit "low" as the brakes will be cold and the cooling duct will make them even colder... "glazing" effect sort of things...
TroubledSoul said:
Don't blame me for your bank account loosing an extra zero! You're part of the club now!geraintthomas said:
cedrichn said:
I did think of this, and was tempted to create almost a valve/shutter so I could regulate the cooling if it's a tad too much. They're not so bad for you to notice poor performance on cold, they work well straight away, but they certainly come into their own when heated up. Would hate to loose that so I'll definitely have a think about it. Cheers for the heads up.
- go back to the genuine part on "non-fog light car" in winter, but I am not sure they are so accessible and you might put some strength on the bumper clips (especially in winter!) - might have a look at how people inserted after market fog lights,
- or design the ducting plate with clips, so you can clip a part that close the ducting when you are not on track: some 3D design and printing would make this
Then you can sell them on :P
TroubledSoul said:
Yeah I might put a thread up, although mine isn't half as nice as yours, nor is my attention to detail at your level!
I'd be keen to know where you got the fog adapters and the tubing and flanges for the backing plates, if you wouldn't mind? That's defo a mod I want to do.
Definitely do it, it's lovely looking back at the thread in a year's time to see where the car's come from. I'd love to look at it.I'd be keen to know where you got the fog adapters and the tubing and flanges for the backing plates, if you wouldn't mind? That's defo a mod I want to do.
The flanges would be:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292811288752
With the tubing:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184926059530
Attached to these adapters:
https://www.duct3d.co.uk/shop/p/mazda-mx5-nc-fogli...
supacool1 said:
Brilliant Write up my good man. Really enjoyed reading that and following you on your journey. Car looks ace.
Many thanks, it's certainly been a journey so far. I've got many more a plan up my sleeve.I've just bought two things.
The first is a black fuel cap to replace the chrome one. I'm starting to really dislike it, as a friend told me "it looks a little Halfords" (cheers Macaulay), and now I can't stop thinking it. The fuel cap was £30 and I have a buyer for my chrome one, so it's a straight swap.
The second thing I've bought is a duck tail spoiler... you'll see tomorrow.
The first is a black fuel cap to replace the chrome one. I'm starting to really dislike it, as a friend told me "it looks a little Halfords" (cheers Macaulay), and now I can't stop thinking it. The fuel cap was £30 and I have a buyer for my chrome one, so it's a straight swap.
The second thing I've bought is a duck tail spoiler... you'll see tomorrow.
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