Fury "Egoboost 2.0" - CBR1000RR to Ecoboost
Discussion
Further progress today:
Firstly some essential modifications that needed doing but I’ve made them look prettier.
The vacuum pump on the rear of the engine isn’t needed so it gets removed and then blanked off. SBD make this component although Gemzoe Motorsport also make one.
After that the rear solenoid gets removed and blanked off. That’s also an SBD product.
Next was to replace the Ecoboost thermostat housing with a Sigma housing. Not sure why, it probably simplifies the circuit. It’s what is recommended so I’m doing it!
Hmm, that doesn’t look right! I’m not sure what’s going on there, I think it might be due to the engine sitting around for a while. Please comment if you know.
Firstly some essential modifications that needed doing but I’ve made them look prettier.
The vacuum pump on the rear of the engine isn’t needed so it gets removed and then blanked off. SBD make this component although Gemzoe Motorsport also make one.
After that the rear solenoid gets removed and blanked off. That’s also an SBD product.
Next was to replace the Ecoboost thermostat housing with a Sigma housing. Not sure why, it probably simplifies the circuit. It’s what is recommended so I’m doing it!
Hmm, that doesn’t look right! I’m not sure what’s going on there, I think it might be due to the engine sitting around for a while. Please comment if you know.
Edited by MagicalTrevor on Monday 31st August 18:25
Edited by MagicalTrevor on Monday 31st August 18:26
The turbo is really tight against the pedal box and that’s a major headache as the exhaust needs to make an incredibly tight turn.
So I’m going to get extension piece fabricated that lowers it and twists it slightly so the exhaust outlet points more towards the outside of the bodywork
There’s now loads of space as I’ve removed the brake MCs to get better access.
So I’m going to get extension piece fabricated that lowers it and twists it slightly so the exhaust outlet points more towards the outside of the bodywork
There’s now loads of space as I’ve removed the brake MCs to get better access.
MagicalTrevor said:
Next step is to fit the dry sump as the height of that from the floor is critical to fitment of the engine mounts.
Once you measure it can you please let me know the height difference with the titan sump? I haven’t ordered mine yet but have the bellhousing and box so would like to start fabricating mounts TheDrBrian said:
Couple of daft questions.
Does the engine need any modifications to make it run longitudinally rather than transversely?
Not worth keeping the Ford ECU for traction control or any other goodies?
No, just a bellhousing and an in-line gearbox such as a Type 9 derivative.Does the engine need any modifications to make it run longitudinally rather than transversely?
Not worth keeping the Ford ECU for traction control or any other goodies?
The new ecu has TC. Ford ECU just isn’t an option and it would have a meltdown because all the emissions and safety systems have been removed
MagicalTrevor said:
shirt said:
Once you measure it can you please let me know the height difference with the titan sump? I haven’t ordered mine yet but have the bellhousing and box so would like to start fabricating mounts
Will do, what box are you using?Borrowed an engine stand so I could more easily work on the dry sump fitting
Obvious reason for the engine stand is turning the engine upside down
Not photos mid way through as there’s nothing particularly exciting.
One thing to note is that the Titan pump comes with a mount but it won’t work with the usual mounts that you buy for this type of car as it blocks the mounting holes.
Gemzoe Motorsport sells a suitable mount to replace the Titan mount and also allows you to use an engine mount.
Basically, you need this if you’re using this mount.
It fits like this
Obvious reason for the engine stand is turning the engine upside down
Not photos mid way through as there’s nothing particularly exciting.
One thing to note is that the Titan pump comes with a mount but it won’t work with the usual mounts that you buy for this type of car as it blocks the mounting holes.
Gemzoe Motorsport sells a suitable mount to replace the Titan mount and also allows you to use an engine mount.
Basically, you need this if you’re using this mount.
It fits like this
Edited by MagicalTrevor on Saturday 5th September 18:05
Progress has been a bit slow since the last update. Still trying to fit the dry sump but work and other commitments have got in the way.
I made the mistake of mounting the engine on the stand without the flywheel fitted which meant that I couldn’t fit the locking tool. That meant that I had to remove the engine from the stand and fit it. Then, after re-mounting it I found that one small part of the flywheel got caught on the mount, so off it came again!
That took a great deal of my garage time yesterday.
Once it was all properly done I had to lock the crankshaft, camshafts and flywheel so I could replace the main crankshaft bolt with a modified one that would allow fitting of the Titan pulley.
It was fairly straight forward, especially as I’ve never done anything like this before, however I found that the crankshaft vibration damper alignment tool, that comes with the Sealey engine locking kit, isn’t quite the correct length. Because of this I found that it was tricky to check the alignment. It required jamming it in the hole rather than using the engine mounting position.
Difficult to explain but I got there in the end.
The instructions are here if you’re interested.
Mounted the pump next and it all looks like it’s aligned ready for adding the belt and the pipes.
Sorry, no pictures!
I made the mistake of mounting the engine on the stand without the flywheel fitted which meant that I couldn’t fit the locking tool. That meant that I had to remove the engine from the stand and fit it. Then, after re-mounting it I found that one small part of the flywheel got caught on the mount, so off it came again!
That took a great deal of my garage time yesterday.
Once it was all properly done I had to lock the crankshaft, camshafts and flywheel so I could replace the main crankshaft bolt with a modified one that would allow fitting of the Titan pulley.
It was fairly straight forward, especially as I’ve never done anything like this before, however I found that the crankshaft vibration damper alignment tool, that comes with the Sealey engine locking kit, isn’t quite the correct length. Because of this I found that it was tricky to check the alignment. It required jamming it in the hole rather than using the engine mounting position.
Difficult to explain but I got there in the end.
The instructions are here if you’re interested.
Mounted the pump next and it all looks like it’s aligned ready for adding the belt and the pipes.
Sorry, no pictures!
Dry sump is now installed!
[imghttps://www.s9motorsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/D62BC402-41DE-446E-985D-55B4438D713A-scaled.jpeg[/img]
The pump fits neatly down the side. The oil cooler gets removed and a shorter oil filter is fitted to help with packaging however my car isn't narrow like a Westfield so I remain unconvinced by this and will fit a larger filter if I can later. I have an older Laminova oil cooler to replace the function of the OEM oil cooler.
Both sides of the engine are now looking a bit tidier and purposeful without all the unnecessary hoses and the wiring loom.
Next step is to fit the placeholder Type 9 gearbox (as most sequential boxes are built based on the T9 fitment) and then start fabricating engine mounts.
I'm undecided on the exhaust/turbo side but this is where the mount for the inlet side will go.
Finally, just some photos of the rear of the engine for reference
[imghttps://www.s9motorsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/D62BC402-41DE-446E-985D-55B4438D713A-scaled.jpeg[/img]
The pump fits neatly down the side. The oil cooler gets removed and a shorter oil filter is fitted to help with packaging however my car isn't narrow like a Westfield so I remain unconvinced by this and will fit a larger filter if I can later. I have an older Laminova oil cooler to replace the function of the OEM oil cooler.
Both sides of the engine are now looking a bit tidier and purposeful without all the unnecessary hoses and the wiring loom.
Next step is to fit the placeholder Type 9 gearbox (as most sequential boxes are built based on the T9 fitment) and then start fabricating engine mounts.
I'm undecided on the exhaust/turbo side but this is where the mount for the inlet side will go.
Finally, just some photos of the rear of the engine for reference
Loving your work!
Might I suggest supporting the 'span' in that feed (?) hose. No real reason for saying it other than the unsupported length feels a bit 'long' and the potential for vibrating might mean a catastrophic failure. However, that really is based on a feel so feel free to ignore
Might I suggest supporting the 'span' in that feed (?) hose. No real reason for saying it other than the unsupported length feels a bit 'long' and the potential for vibrating might mean a catastrophic failure. However, that really is based on a feel so feel free to ignore
dom9 said:
Loving your work!
Might I suggest supporting the 'span' in that feed (?) hose. No real reason for saying it other than the unsupported length feels a bit 'long' and the potential for vibrating might mean a catastrophic failure. However, that really is based on a feel so feel free to ignore
Good suggestion. That’s how SBD have designed it but it does seem prudent to add some support. I’ll add it to my list, thanksMight I suggest supporting the 'span' in that feed (?) hose. No real reason for saying it other than the unsupported length feels a bit 'long' and the potential for vibrating might mean a catastrophic failure. However, that really is based on a feel so feel free to ignore
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