Peugeot 205 XR
Discussion
1602Mark said:
If anyone else is tempted there's another 2 door up for grabs...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205/28409141810...
I did spot that one before I bought my one - I got the registration number from the seller, H615 PVG. It had a failed MOT when I looked but now passed. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205/28409141810...
C70R said:
Love the priorities.
Two sizeable water leaks and a big rusty hole next to the fuel tank; so let's refurbish the black trim and buy some alloys first.
Two sizeable water leaks and a big rusty hole next to the fuel tank; so let's refurbish the black trim and buy some alloys first.
In fairness to me, I have attacked some of the potential leak locations with some sealant, and will need to resolve the sunroof leak sooner rather than later. Spraying some back to black on the bumpers costs 3 quid and take 10 minutes ...
The rusty hole is a small rusty hole and have painted on some rust inhibitor, not sure it needs welded any time soon and if it does, it isn't really something I can DIY ...
C70R said:
PrinceRupert said:
C70R said:
Love the priorities.
Two sizeable water leaks and a big rusty hole next to the fuel tank; so let's refurbish the black trim and buy some alloys first.
Two sizeable water leaks and a big rusty hole next to the fuel tank; so let's refurbish the black trim and buy some alloys first.
In fairness to me, I have attacked some of the potential leak locations with some sealant, and will need to resolve the sunroof leak sooner rather than later. Spraying some back to black on the bumpers costs 3 quid and take 10 minutes ...
The rusty hole is a small rusty hole and have painted on some rust inhibitor, not sure it needs welded any time soon and if it does, it isn't really something I can DIY ...
If I get it running well and back on the road, will certainly ensure I attend to the rust. The leaks are high on my priority list though fortunately I can keep it out of the rain for now!
So I have a problem
Haynes said lift engine and remove engine mount bracket to access water pump
When it lifted off the bolt it jumped back and right
I now can't get it aligned with the bolt
I can Lever it forward with a pry bar but can't lever it right enough
Ffs...
Anyone in SE London with an engine hoist
Haynes said lift engine and remove engine mount bracket to access water pump
When it lifted off the bolt it jumped back and right
I now can't get it aligned with the bolt
I can Lever it forward with a pry bar but can't lever it right enough
Ffs...
Anyone in SE London with an engine hoist
Edited by PrinceRupert on Saturday 5th December 13:34
Thank you. I've taken the battery out and loosened the bolts on the right hand mount to no avail. I may need to do the same with the rear lower mount. I've given up for the evening and left the engine mount sitting on a bit of wood. Painful. Can't work out why it won't go back to where it should.
I haven't driven the car yet but new mounts were on my to do. If it is going to be this painful though....
I haven't driven the car yet but new mounts were on my to do. If it is going to be this painful though....
I feel a bit silly - I took the bracket off, lowered the engine, put bracket back on and lined it up in about 5 minutes. Doh. Glad I spent 200 quid on an engine hoist I didn't need...
I now have the timing belt on. I had the belt tight and turned the engine over by hand but it just didn't want to turn. I figured it was too tight so loosened off the nut on the tensioner pulley and loosened off the belt. I now can't get it to tighten. Ugh.
I now have the timing belt on. I had the belt tight and turned the engine over by hand but it just didn't want to turn. I figured it was too tight so loosened off the nut on the tensioner pulley and loosened off the belt. I now can't get it to tighten. Ugh.
So I appeared to get it sufficiently tight, tightened the tensioner pulley bolt, and manually turned the engine via the camshaft. It didn't turn smoothly - it was very tight and felt like it "jumped". After doing so the belt was much looser again.
I've just read that I should turn the engine by hand using the crankshaft ie bottom not camshaft ie top. Is that right? Hopefully I've not damaged the engine...
Should I try tightening the tensioner and then turning by crankshaft
I've just read that I should turn the engine by hand using the crankshaft ie bottom not camshaft ie top. Is that right? Hopefully I've not damaged the engine...
Should I try tightening the tensioner and then turning by crankshaft
Edited by PrinceRupert on Sunday 6th December 19:03
CarlosV8 said:
Glad you got the engine back in place. It's all a learning curve 
Regarding the timing, lock the flywheel in place again and then make sure the cam pulley still lines up with the locking hole. At that point it's also worth putting a tipex mark on the cambelt and pulley to make checking alignment easier later. And definitely only use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine.
I would also check the number of teeth on your cambelt matches the old one. There's more than one version so I always double check.
Indeed a learning curve it is Regarding the timing, lock the flywheel in place again and then make sure the cam pulley still lines up with the locking hole. At that point it's also worth putting a tipex mark on the cambelt and pulley to make checking alignment easier later. And definitely only use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine.
I would also check the number of teeth on your cambelt matches the old one. There's more than one version so I always double check.
Do you mean lock flywheel, remove belt, spin camshaft to locking hole?
Given it is the flywheel that is locked not the crankshaft there is no way of checking if they still line up with the belt on.
CarlosV8 said:
The flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft, so by locking the flywheel you're also locking the crankshaft.
When trying to rotate the engine on the cam pulley was the locking pin still in the flywheel? If so the crankshaft would never rotate, so you could have caused the pulley to slip a tooth. Whatever you do don't force the cam pulley around with the flywheel locked, you don't want valves hitting pistons. I would suggest getting the belt off and carefully realign the cam pulley before putting the belt back on. Also check the belt isn't damaged.
Sorry i mean that the flywheel locking pin isn't visible so it isnt easy to see if it lines up.When trying to rotate the engine on the cam pulley was the locking pin still in the flywheel? If so the crankshaft would never rotate, so you could have caused the pulley to slip a tooth. Whatever you do don't force the cam pulley around with the flywheel locked, you don't want valves hitting pistons. I would suggest getting the belt off and carefully realign the cam pulley before putting the belt back on. Also check the belt isn't damaged.
No the flywheel and cam pulley were unlocked. Problem was rotating it by the cam pulley seemed to loosen off the tension on the belt and concerned it jumped a tooth as it was loose on the teeth of the pulley
If I take the belt off and align the cam pulley how do I make sure the crank is in the right place? I could possibly tighten up turn by crankshaft till cam pulley locking pin lines up then see if I can insert bolt into flywheel?
Some good news - I tensioned the belt, removed the spark plugs and VERY SLOWLY turned the engine by hand (by the crankshaft this time!). It turned easily and I got it back to the camshaft locking position with no metal on metal contact. So I locked the camshaft and the flywheel and took the belt and tensioner off.
Two bits of bad news:
- It seems the crankshaft is not actually locked - can move it a little both directions with the belt off. So need to find the timing again.
- The belt was fouled with oil. The one I took off wasn't, so wonder if it got touched by oil when refitting (it is quite oily down there). I'm going to have to clean the engine up and try and find the source of the oil leak. Is it safe to liberally apply Gunk degreaser and/or brake cleaner, and then lightly hose it down?
From reading online, it seems that oil leaking from the head gasket on this side of the engine is very common on these engines. I really think a head gasket change may be beyond my skill set. If it is that, do you think cleaning it up and keeping an eye on oil levels would be okay for now? I don't think there was oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil - will post up a pic of the drained coolant momentarily (it is a bit grotty but i think that will be from sitting in the car ten years rather than mixed with oil).
Two bits of bad news:
- It seems the crankshaft is not actually locked - can move it a little both directions with the belt off. So need to find the timing again.
- The belt was fouled with oil. The one I took off wasn't, so wonder if it got touched by oil when refitting (it is quite oily down there). I'm going to have to clean the engine up and try and find the source of the oil leak. Is it safe to liberally apply Gunk degreaser and/or brake cleaner, and then lightly hose it down?
From reading online, it seems that oil leaking from the head gasket on this side of the engine is very common on these engines. I really think a head gasket change may be beyond my skill set. If it is that, do you think cleaning it up and keeping an eye on oil levels would be okay for now? I don't think there was oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil - will post up a pic of the drained coolant momentarily (it is a bit grotty but i think that will be from sitting in the car ten years rather than mixed with oil).
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