Peugeot 205 XR
Discussion
PrinceRupert said:
In other developments i decided to pop the new wheels on the rear as well. It was a bit rusty and grim back there so I attacked it with a wire brush. Found two problems...
This fell off. Any ideas what it is...
Assume a bodged brake line?
Bump stop for the rear axle and handbrake cable. Replace the pair at the same time if you can, it will help keep the imbalance across the axle downThis fell off. Any ideas what it is...
Assume a bodged brake line?
So, I just took it for a quick run round the block. It drives and stops!
There seems to be a constant squealing noise of some description, which increases with revs. Cam belt too tight?
It seemed to want to stall a few times, though only did so once.
My low coolant light came on once. As mentioned previously, it was disconnected when I bought the car.
On arrival back home, I opened the bonnet and it was giving off steam. May well just be burning off the coolant I had spilled on it.
Oh and the drivers seat has a LOT of movement!
There seems to be a constant squealing noise of some description, which increases with revs. Cam belt too tight?
It seemed to want to stall a few times, though only did so once.
My low coolant light came on once. As mentioned previously, it was disconnected when I bought the car.
On arrival back home, I opened the bonnet and it was giving off steam. May well just be burning off the coolant I had spilled on it.
Oh and the drivers seat has a LOT of movement!
Edited by PrinceRupert on Sunday 17th January 16:48
OK, re the mayo in the cap - too early to say until the amount mayo increases after a decent run - no increase, could just be moisture in the system burning off.
Loss of coolant would suggest split hose, bad hose connection, HGF, damaged rad (hopefully not all at once). Like you say, could just be previously spilled coolant turning to steam.
Seat movement will possibly/probably be a corroded captive nut/fastner, which is in the body/seat support, which is a transverse support, spot welded into the bodyshell. This beam supports the two front mounting points of the seat runners. The rears aren't as susceptible to corrosion. However it might be the frame/structure of the seats themselves.
All in all, could be worse and it's alive!
BTW the squealing could just be the auxiliary belt from the alternator or alternator bearings if you're unlucky (won't be the cambelt).
Might be a good idea to replace the belt, not too expensive and gives peace of mind. If there is remaining budget I would look at a new alternator if possible, and a new earth strap from the battery to the gearbox. Earth strap not expensive either.
Loss of coolant would suggest split hose, bad hose connection, HGF, damaged rad (hopefully not all at once). Like you say, could just be previously spilled coolant turning to steam.
Seat movement will possibly/probably be a corroded captive nut/fastner, which is in the body/seat support, which is a transverse support, spot welded into the bodyshell. This beam supports the two front mounting points of the seat runners. The rears aren't as susceptible to corrosion. However it might be the frame/structure of the seats themselves.
All in all, could be worse and it's alive!
BTW the squealing could just be the auxiliary belt from the alternator or alternator bearings if you're unlucky (won't be the cambelt).
Might be a good idea to replace the belt, not too expensive and gives peace of mind. If there is remaining budget I would look at a new alternator if possible, and a new earth strap from the battery to the gearbox. Earth strap not expensive either.
Edited by ReverendCounter on Sunday 17th January 18:18
Edited by ReverendCounter on Sunday 17th January 18:19
Breadvan72 said:
Just kidding.I hope it isn't really.
ReverendCounter said:
OK, re the mayo in the cap - too early to say until the amount mayo increases after a decent run - no increase, could just be moisture in the system burning off.
Loss of coolant would suggest split hose, bad hose connection, HGF, damaged rad (hopefully not all at once). Like you say, could just be previously spilled coolant turning to steam.
Seat movement will possibly/probably be a corroded captive nut/fastner, which is in the body/seat support, which is a transverse support, spot welded into the bodyshell. This beam supports the two front mounting points of the seat runners. The rears aren't as susceptible to corrosion. However it might be the frame/structure of the seats themselves.
All in all, could be worse and it's alive!
BTW the squealing could just be the auxiliary belt from the alternator or alternator bearings if you're unlucky (won't be the cambelt).
Might be a good idea to replace the belt, not too expensive and gives peace of mind. If there is remaining budget I would look at a new alternator if possible, and a new earth strap from the battery to the gearbox. Earth strap not expensive either.
Thanks. The aux belt is new, but could be too tight? Can take it for a spin without the aux belt on to isolate it to the belt. Budget not a problem so can replace alternator if needed.Loss of coolant would suggest split hose, bad hose connection, HGF, damaged rad (hopefully not all at once). Like you say, could just be previously spilled coolant turning to steam.
Seat movement will possibly/probably be a corroded captive nut/fastner, which is in the body/seat support, which is a transverse support, spot welded into the bodyshell. This beam supports the two front mounting points of the seat runners. The rears aren't as susceptible to corrosion. However it might be the frame/structure of the seats themselves.
All in all, could be worse and it's alive!
BTW the squealing could just be the auxiliary belt from the alternator or alternator bearings if you're unlucky (won't be the cambelt).
Might be a good idea to replace the belt, not too expensive and gives peace of mind. If there is remaining budget I would look at a new alternator if possible, and a new earth strap from the battery to the gearbox. Earth strap not expensive either.
Edited by ReverendCounter on Sunday 17th January 18:18
Edited by ReverendCounter on Sunday 17th January 18:19
And yes being alive is great! Wasn't brave enough to take it for a long run today, maybe next weekend!
Also ordered some replacement bump stops. Apparently if the nut is snapped off I won't get them drilled out without removing the rear axle...
PrinceRupert said:
Thanks. The aux belt is new, but could be too tight?
I'd guess at too loose. Did you see the adjustment nut that tightens/slackens the belt? It might just need a little adjustment. The tightness isn't as critical as the cambelt. If that doesn't solve it, need to eliminate things bit by bit. When you're stationary and you rev it does it still squeal?As a quick check you could spray a little WD40 or something on the belt, rather than any pulleys - that way if the squeal stops you know its almost certainly just the tension.
Good luck with the bump stops!
ReverendCounter said:
I'd guess at too loose. Did you see the adjustment nut that tightens/slackens the belt? It might just need a little adjustment. The tightness isn't as critical as the cambelt. If that doesn't solve it, need to eliminate things bit by bit. When you're stationary and you rev it does it still squeal?
As a quick check you could spray a little WD40 or something on the belt, rather than any pulleys - that way if the squeal stops you know its almost certainly just the tension.
Good luck with the bump stops!
Yes, can adjust it tighter without much difficulty. I didnt hear it squealing whilst stationary, only when out on the road. Good tip on the WD40.As a quick check you could spray a little WD40 or something on the belt, rather than any pulleys - that way if the squeal stops you know its almost certainly just the tension.
Good luck with the bump stops!
PrinceRupert said:
Thanks. The aux belt is new, but could be too tight? Can take it for a spin without the aux belt on to isolate it to the belt. Budget not a problem so can replace alternator if needed.
And yes being alive is great! Wasn't brave enough to take it for a long run today, maybe next weekend!
Also ordered some replacement bump stops. Apparently if the nut is snapped off I won't get them drilled out without removing the rear axle...
Rear axle is like 6 bolts. Swapped one on a GTi and it was no hassle.And yes being alive is great! Wasn't brave enough to take it for a long run today, maybe next weekend!
Also ordered some replacement bump stops. Apparently if the nut is snapped off I won't get them drilled out without removing the rear axle...
Ordered some new bits. I know I should probably wait until I am confident the engine is running well, but oh well. Ordered a rocker cover gasket (it appears to be weeping a bit) and a feeler gauge to check valve clearances whilst I'm in there (Haynes makes it sound easy...). Also bought Powerflex bump stops and cups to sit them in, lets hope I don't need to drop the rear axle...
I forgot to mention, after my drive yesterday when I turned the key off the engine overran for a few seconds. I have had it suggested to me this could be a carb or points problem. So both needing checked.
I forgot to mention, after my drive yesterday when I turned the key off the engine overran for a few seconds. I have had it suggested to me this could be a carb or points problem. So both needing checked.
Question: I need a tachometer for various things to do with carb and distributor etc.
Would a non-contact one like this do the business?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Digital-Tachometer-...
Would a non-contact one like this do the business?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Digital-Tachometer-...
PrinceRupert said:
Question: I need a tachometer for various things to do with carb and distributor etc.
Would a non-contact one like this do the business?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Digital-Tachometer-...
Can't see why not. May need a tipp-ex mark on the crank pulley to make it pick up. Would a non-contact one like this do the business?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Digital-Tachometer-...
Sadly, I think I do have a problem with burning coolant. I took off the air filter housing this morning to inspect the carburettor and found a milky coolant/oil mixture inside the oil breather hose (plus still under the oil filter lid). The coolant level in the header tank appears to have dropped quite a bit. I also had quite a lot of oil on the cambelt side of the engine when I did the cambelt, which apparently may be from a headgasket leak. This plus steam apparently coming out of the engine does not seem good...
That does seem to indicate head gasket failure. I think you've got two options - new headgasket installed, or try an off the shelf bodge in an attempt to repair it, which would be something like Holts Rad Weld.
I seem to recall you flush your coolant system out, dump the radweld in the rad/expansion tank, run the engine through a few cycles, flush, drain, add coolant and hopefully you're good to go.
But you might also have to consider you may have a warped head from overheating in the past, which radweld would not fix and even a new headgasket possibly wouldn't fix (did you confirm that the fans are actually running?).
Just to add, if the oil near the cambelt could be cleaned away, and it doesn't re-appear when you run/drive the engine next, then I might be tempted to try radweld or similar. But you could definitely do with a second opinion - radweld and the like isn't highly regarded by some as it can apparently restrict coolant flow in some places.
I seem to recall you flush your coolant system out, dump the radweld in the rad/expansion tank, run the engine through a few cycles, flush, drain, add coolant and hopefully you're good to go.
But you might also have to consider you may have a warped head from overheating in the past, which radweld would not fix and even a new headgasket possibly wouldn't fix (did you confirm that the fans are actually running?).
Just to add, if the oil near the cambelt could be cleaned away, and it doesn't re-appear when you run/drive the engine next, then I might be tempted to try radweld or similar. But you could definitely do with a second opinion - radweld and the like isn't highly regarded by some as it can apparently restrict coolant flow in some places.
Edited by ReverendCounter on Tuesday 19th January 14:50
ReverendCounter said:
That does seem to indicate head gasket failure. I think you've got two options - new headgasket installed, or try an off the shelf bodge in an attempt to repair it, which would be something like Holts Rad Weld.
I seem to recall you flush your coolant system out, dump the radweld in the rad/expansion tank, run the engine through a few cycles, flush, drain, add coolant and hopefully you're good to go.
But you might also have to consider you may have a warped head from overheating in the past, which radweld would not fix and even a new headgasket possibly wouldn't fix (did you confirm that the fans are actually running?).
I haven't yet seen the fans running. I'm starting to wonder if the seller knew he had a problem...I seem to recall you flush your coolant system out, dump the radweld in the rad/expansion tank, run the engine through a few cycles, flush, drain, add coolant and hopefully you're good to go.
But you might also have to consider you may have a warped head from overheating in the past, which radweld would not fix and even a new headgasket possibly wouldn't fix (did you confirm that the fans are actually running?).
I'm tempted to get a mobile mechanic out to take a look and if necessary do the head gasket. He would have the experience to diagnose and know when its apart if there are other issues. If I strip it down for him I cant imagine it would be particularly expensive.
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