Peugeot 205 XR

[Cascade360]

TEKNOPUG said:

What was done to get the carb running right?

I believe removed and cleaned the idle jets and adjusted idle speed.

[Cascade360]

So...the carb still ain't running right. Took it out for its first proper journey, and it runs okay when cold now but once up to temperature it will still stall with choke in. It also occasionally stalls when in neutral for some reason. It was fun when it happened half way round a busy roundabout ...

Think it is just the carb is goosed and needs rebuilt? Was also wondering if it could be ignition related. I've replaced plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm but haven't checked timing so it could be that? I have a timing gun in my shed but don't actually know what I'm doing

[mercedeslimos]

Sounds like an air leak to me, is the carb to inlet manifold rubber gasket OK, I know on VWs they crack and age then leak and the engine is sucking air but no more fuel, so it runs lean hence the need for the extra fuel (or more accurately, deficit of air) that the choke brings.

[TEKNOPUG]

If you can get a carb rebuild kit it's pretty straightforward to do. Take everything apart, clean, replace gaskets, put it back together.

You either don't have enough fuel without the choke, so blocked jets in the carb, that need to be cleaned. Or you have an air leak which only having the choke open supplies enough fuel. So either leaking gaskets or hoses.

...or a stuck float.

[C70R]

Fair play to you for persevering - I'd have given up long ago. Without meaning to sound rude, I think we are of a similar level of mechanical patience/talent.

I learned many years ago that I shouldn't work on my own cars - not from the perspective of safety, but quality. I am incapable of dedicating the correct amount of time and patience, and I inevitably do a substandard job.

I stopped frustrating myself with my work (and wasting money on paying people to rectify my mistakes), and just conceded to find really good specialists to work on my car.

[Cascade360]

C70R said:

Fair play to you for persevering - I'd have given up long ago. Without meaning to sound rude, I think we are of a similar level of mechanical patience/talent.

I learned many years ago that I shouldn't work on my own cars - not from the perspective of safety, but quality. I am incapable of dedicating the correct amount of time and patience, and I inevitably do a substandard job.

I stopped frustrating myself with my work (and wasting money on paying people to rectify my mistakes), and just conceded to find really good specialists to work on my car.

I had no skill, I now have not very much skill but more skill than when I started, the only purpose of this car is to tinker with it, otherwise might as well sell it rather than paying someone to sort it (I realise I just paid someone to do the hub and wheel bearing after I fked it up, but only because I had just taken the suspension apart and couldn't bear to do it again but plus had no press for the bearing ...). Practice makes perfect ... (for example, I have learned through my mistakes to use power tools to take things off and not put them on ) Plus much of my earlier issues were from having the wrong bloody parts (thermostat gasket, alternator belt, radiator etc. etc. etc.)

Carb rebuild seems next on my to do, its something I'm willing to try, at least I can do it sitting down rather than on my back underneath a car

I think it might be air leak, as the garage cleaned the jets which improved the issues but obviously didn't fix it.

Edited by Cascade360 on Monday 28th June 18:46

[Cascade360]

TEKNOPUG said:

If you can get a carb rebuild kit it's pretty straightforward to do. Take everything apart, clean, replace gaskets, put it back together.

You either don't have enough fuel without the choke, so blocked jets in the carb, that need to be cleaned. Or you have an air leak which only having the choke open supplies enough fuel. So either leaking gaskets or hoses.

...or a stuck float.

Can't find a rebuild kit, ugh. There seems to be a few carb specialists out there, might need to give one a ring.

[xstian]

You can test for air leaks by spraying some easy start around the carb manifold. If the revs increases when you spray, you knows its sucking in air where it shouldn't.

I doubt you will be able to buy a rebuild kit as such, you might even find it difficult to get any parts for it. There isn't really that much in a carb that wears out that can be replaced easily. If any of the moving parts wear, it's probably going to be uneconomical to repair.

Saying all that, a carb can do a lot of miles with out any problems and I think you have to be pretty unlucky to get a completely clapped out carb. It might just need another clean, have you got a fuel filter fitted. It's an easy job really, you just need to make sure you take note of a couple of the screw settings and don't force anything.

[Cascade360]

xstian said:

You can test for air leaks by spraying some easy start around the carb manifold. If the revs increases when you spray, you knows its sucking in air where it shouldn't.

I doubt you will be able to buy a rebuild kit as such, you might even find it difficult to get any parts for it. There isn't really that much in a carb that wears out that can be replaced easily. If any of the moving parts wear, it's probably going to be uneconomical to repair.

Saying all that, a carb can do a lot of miles with out any problems and I think you have to be pretty unlucky to get a completely clapped out carb. It might just need another clean, have you got a fuel filter fitted. It's an easy job really, you just need to make sure you take note of a couple of the screw settings and don't force anything.

Thanks. It seems carb rebuild kits are available for some carbs (see https://classiccarbs.co.uk/products/solex-carbs-pa... but can't see anything for my carb which is marked Solex 72273 (though this might not be the model number - http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205F/1/14A21A.HTM - this suggests it is a SOLEX 34 PBISA 17/481).

Good tip on the easy start, will give it a go. Will also change the fuel filter.

[TEKNOPUG]

Take it apart. Clean everything. Check for anything leaking/blown gaskets. Put it back together. Take it from there.

[Cascade360]

TEKNOPUG said:

Take it apart. Clean everything. Check for anything leaking/blown gaskets. Put it back together. Take it from there.

Might be risky if i can't find a gasket kit first?

[TEKNOPUG]

Cascade360 said:

TEKNOPUG said:

Take it apart. Clean everything. Check for anything leaking/blown gaskets. Put it back together. Take it from there.

Might be risky if i can't find a gasket kit first?

Why? It doesn't work now and you can always put the old gaskets back.

It could be a simple as the gasket between the carb and inlet manifold, which will almost certainly just be paper.

[Cascade360]

From a bit of investigation with the help of another forum it has been determined that the carb is a solex 34 pbisa 17 and the idle circuit is the problem. Took out idle jet cleaned it and if i loosen it off a bit i can get it running okay with choke in. So needs a rebuild. Pondering between rebuilding current carb and buying a good xs carb and manifold which will apparently give more power and better driving characteristics to boot.

In the meantime decided to bleed the brakes as pedal feel is soft and fluid looks manky. Used my easibleed which was remarkably easy. Except disaster struck. First bleed nipple was rounded off and wouldnt turn. Second bleed nipple turned and bled okay. Third bleed nipplr was rounded off and wouldnt turn. Fourth bleed nipple........snapped. fml. Guess its new front caliper time.

[darkyoung1000]

Cascade360 said:

From a bit of investigation with the help of another forum it has been determined that the idle circuit is the problem. Took out idle jet cleaned it and if i loosen it off a bit i can get it running okay with choke in. So needs a rebuild. Pondering between rebuilding current carb and buying a good xs carb and manifold which will apparently give more power and better driving characteristics to boot.

In the meantime decided to bleed the brakes as pedal feel is soft and fluid looks manky. Used my easibleed which was remarkably easy. Except disaster struck. First bleed nipple was rounded off and wouldnt turn. Second bleed nipple turned and bled okay. Third bleed nipplr was rounded off and wouldnt turn. Fourth bleed nipple........snapped. fml. Guess its new front caliper time.

At least there's some progress with the carb! Sorry to hear about the brake caliper problems though. Depending on where it's snapped, you might be able to carefully drill out the remains using a decent hss bit, and pick the remains out of the thread using a pick.
A caliper on an exchange basis, or removing it and posting it to a specialist might be the best bet though.

Good luck!

[Cascade360]

So given this is not likely to be a long termer, ordered a service kit for the existing carb and will try to rebuild it. Also trying to buy a second hand caliper rather than faffing about trying to drill out. Could get a brand new one for only £45. Query - can you replace a caliper without draining all fluid out of the brake system?

[TEKNOPUG]

Cascade360 said:

So given this is not likely to be a long termer, ordered a service kit for the existing carb and will try to rebuild it. Also trying to buy a second hand caliper rather than faffing about trying to drill out. Could get a brand new one for only £45. Query - can you replace a caliper without draining all fluid out of the brake system?

Yes. Obviously you'll lose some fluid. Depends how quick you are! If it has rubber hoses, you can clamp them. Alternatively, remove the hoses and fit an M10 dome nut (or whatever the fitting size is) on the brake line.

[Cascade360]

I decided to swap the caliper over this evening ... I'm starting to get pissed off at the number of bolts I snap. Any tips on not snapping bolts? I did soak this one in plenty of plus gas and tried a bit of heat but was too close to the rubber parts of the caliper to get much heat on it.

|https://thumbsnap.com/cTqpToM9[/url]

Is fixing this as straight forward as swapping out the flexi hose? I can get a new one for a tenner. Really need to make sure I don't snap it ...

[url]

[The ArtfulBodger]

Cascade360 said:

I decided to swap the caliper over this evening ... I'm starting to get pissed off at the number of bolts I snap. Any tips on not snapping bolts? I did soak this one in plenty of plus gas and tried a bit of heat but was too close to the rubber parts of the caliper to get much heat on it.

|https://thumbsnap.com/cTqpToM9[/url]

Is fixing this as straight forward as swapping out the flexi hose? I can get a new one for a tenner. Really need to make sure I don't snap it ...

[url]

The best place for a 32 year old flexible hoses is in the bin!

Sometimes it can’t be help, enough heat to free the shagged hose and you will knacker the calliper anyway.
Having access to machine tools means removing sheared fasteners is easy, the trick is to planning ahead and accepting its more likely than not you’ll have to get agricultural with rusty three decade old sh!te amd put it right after the event.

If you don’t have the skill to remove sheared screws etc you’ll just have to accept you will be replacing components rather than repairing them.

[Cascade360]

Thanks. I guess I can't use lots of heat on the connection between flexi and hard line as brake fluid is flammable?

I have drilled out and helicoiled quite a few bolts now but didn't fancy trying it on the caliper with the consequences of it failing in use ...

[TEKNOPUG]

You should be able to tell by the size of the fittings and what they attach to, as to how tight they should be and how much force you can apply. If they are rusted together, heat is the best option. Quite often you can cut along the length of the fitting to help separate it.

Or consider the parts sacrificial and figure out the cheapest place to. You've discovered why preventative maintenance is so important on older cars.