Peugeot 205 XR
Discussion
Cascade360 said:
TEKNOPUG said:
Would you consider fitting a tach? Would make everything a lot easier.
Yes if it was straightforward...The idle jet should be screwed in tight, it may run better loose but how are you going to find the real problem if you don't have it fixed correctly.
Set your idle as low as it will go, even if it runs rough as long as it will keep idling. Then you can adjust the idle mixture screw, the manual should give you a base setting. Then adjust until it runs the smoothest normally this will be within 1 turn and then readjusted the idle to a smooth tick over.
You can't adjust the mixture screw if its idling too fast, it will seem like it is doing nothing. If the mixture screw still does nothing at very low idle, there is a problem elsewhere, probably a air leak. Should the mixture screw have an o-ring fitted?
xstian said:
Cascade360 said:
TEKNOPUG said:
Would you consider fitting a tach? Would make everything a lot easier.
Yes if it was straightforward...The idle jet should be screwed in tight, it may run better loose but how are you going to find the real problem if you don't have it fixed correctly.
Set your idle as low as it will go, even if it runs rough as long as it will keep idling. Then you can adjust the idle mixture screw, the manual should give you a base setting.
But yes, as you say, if the idle jet is fitted properly and you are still having issues, then you have either too much air (leak) or not enough fuel (blockage/fuel pressure).
xstian said:
I wouldn't waste your money fitting a tacho, while you are still trying to get it to run right. It's a nice to have rather than need to have.
The idle jet should be screwed in tight, it may run better loose but how are you going to find the real problem if you don't have it fixed correctly.
Set your idle as low as it will go, even if it runs rough as long as it will keep idling. Then you can adjust the idle mixture screw, the manual should give you a base setting. Then adjust until it runs the smoothest normally this will be within 1 turn and then readjusted the idle to a smooth tick over.
You can't adjust the mixture screw if its idling too fast, it will seem like it is doing nothing. If the mixture screw still does nothing at very low idle, there is a problem elsewhere, probably a air leak. Should the mixture screw have an o-ring fitted?
This was super helpful, tried it this evening. The mixture screw was miles from where it is now. From a bit of tweaking and trial and error, I have managed to make it idle okay. See here - that is it idling hot with choke in after a run. It still isn't perfect - there is definitely a bit of an irregular hesitation. But it runs and drives fine which is good. This is on the old idle screw (and I've lost the bloody rubber gasket for it which I will need to try and locate).The idle jet should be screwed in tight, it may run better loose but how are you going to find the real problem if you don't have it fixed correctly.
Set your idle as low as it will go, even if it runs rough as long as it will keep idling. Then you can adjust the idle mixture screw, the manual should give you a base setting. Then adjust until it runs the smoothest normally this will be within 1 turn and then readjusted the idle to a smooth tick over.
You can't adjust the mixture screw if its idling too fast, it will seem like it is doing nothing. If the mixture screw still does nothing at very low idle, there is a problem elsewhere, probably a air leak. Should the mixture screw have an o-ring fitted?
Engine is very tappety - valve clearances is on my to do list.
I have also reinstalled the alternator and it doesn't seem to be knocking. Woohoo. Let's hope it stays that way.
One very minor annoyance - the analogue clock is SO BLOODY LOUD even with engine off. TICK TICK TICK TICK. Tried to take dash apart but thought I'd break something so stopped. Anyone experienced this before ...
Edited by Cascade360 on Wednesday 8th September 22:22
Cascade360 said:
If you don't tape it up how do you not just end up with paint everywhere?
Mask over things like the windows and then fade the paint in. An example is when doing the arch lip on my old E46 shed, I taped it up and did the lip then it came out like a strip of paint as did every other car I painted up to the tape. With my Focus when I did the lip I taped off a large area and faded it in so you now can't tell its been painted other than the appalling paint match. I would've masked the roof and windows to avoid paint dust sticking then blended it in across the entire length instead of being taped either side. 
aaron_2000 said:
If it does come out like tape then you should be able to literally peel it off making it very easy to rectify and do again so I wouldn't worry about it. See how it comes out
Spray a larger area and then use fine wet and dry sandpaper to blend the edges in then polish.Turns out using spray filler on a slightly windy day without proper masking ain't a great idea. There is quite a bit of filler speckled over the car now 
Hopefully polishes out...
At the same time the bits i was trying to fill are still visible after a few coats. This is going to look s
t
Hopefully polishes out...At the same time the bits i was trying to fill are still visible after a few coats. This is going to look s
t So I tried to do the valve clearances today. Each and every one was very tight. So i loosened them all off using a feeler gauge in the middle of the range given by Haynes. I followed the order. I have definitely not done it right as the engine sounds horrible. Doh. Take two i guess...
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