Peugeot 205 XR
Discussion
So I have a problem
Haynes said lift engine and remove engine mount bracket to access water pump
When it lifted off the bolt it jumped back and right
I now can't get it aligned with the bolt
I can Lever it forward with a pry bar but can't lever it right enough
Ffs...
Anyone in SE London with an engine hoist
Haynes said lift engine and remove engine mount bracket to access water pump
When it lifted off the bolt it jumped back and right
I now can't get it aligned with the bolt
I can Lever it forward with a pry bar but can't lever it right enough
Ffs...
Anyone in SE London with an engine hoist
Edited by PrinceRupert on Saturday 5th December 13:34
There's likely to be other engine mounts that are causing pressure or force in a particular direction. Seeing as you've got a hoist I would loosen all of them in order to get as much cambelt/pump access you need, then you should be able to drop them into place.
Do you notice a thump/bang/knock when you pull away sometimes? Or when trying to drive at low speed? You might benefit from some new engine mounts anyway, but specifically, there are a set of shims available from Baker BM (£15 incl delivery) which take up the gap on the upper engine mounts - that aluminium arm you've got the strap attached to.
ps I think the rounded off thing that you pointed out might possibly be the gearbox + diff oil level plug. There might be a sump plug at the back of the sump.
Do you notice a thump/bang/knock when you pull away sometimes? Or when trying to drive at low speed? You might benefit from some new engine mounts anyway, but specifically, there are a set of shims available from Baker BM (£15 incl delivery) which take up the gap on the upper engine mounts - that aluminium arm you've got the strap attached to.
ps I think the rounded off thing that you pointed out might possibly be the gearbox + diff oil level plug. There might be a sump plug at the back of the sump.
Edited by ReverendCounter on Saturday 5th December 17:28
Edited by ReverendCounter on Saturday 5th December 17:43
If your battery is to the right and front of the bay near the passenger headlight, if you remove the battery you might have a mount under there that attaches to the top of the gearbox.
In addition you might have mounts under the engine at the back sort of next to the drivers bulkhead, attaching to the subframe. You might have to undo all of these to get the top mounts back in the right place.
Or it might be just that the engine want to tilt back due to its own weight.
In addition you might have mounts under the engine at the back sort of next to the drivers bulkhead, attaching to the subframe. You might have to undo all of these to get the top mounts back in the right place.
Or it might be just that the engine want to tilt back due to its own weight.
Thank you. I've taken the battery out and loosened the bolts on the right hand mount to no avail. I may need to do the same with the rear lower mount. I've given up for the evening and left the engine mount sitting on a bit of wood. Painful. Can't work out why it won't go back to where it should.
I haven't driven the car yet but new mounts were on my to do. If it is going to be this painful though....
I haven't driven the car yet but new mounts were on my to do. If it is going to be this painful though....
PrinceRupert said:
Feeling a bit deflated so ordered some BM fast road Mounts to cheer myself up! Figured I might as well given the engine is lifted...
Every cloud and all that! I would definitely recommend doing google searches on the 205 GTi Drivers site for any symptoms you might experience, its been around for years in comparison to the FB group. There's also the UK Peugeot Sport forums at pscuk.net in case you want to look a bit further afield.ps this link should give you lots of things to read through, regarding XR's from the 205 site:
https://www.google.com/search?q=205gtidrivers+XR+s...
Edited by ReverendCounter on Saturday 5th December 18:50
Jacking the engine up on the sump (with a bit of wood to spread the load) and then pulling the engine forward should be sufficient to align the top mount. You shouldn't need to touch the other mounts (unless they are completely knackered!). Also, can you unbolt the mounting bracket from the engine? Might be easier to get the engine in the right place then drop it back on?
Random thought - if the exhaust downpipe is still attached is it wedging in somewhere and limiting movement of the engine?
Random thought - if the exhaust downpipe is still attached is it wedging in somewhere and limiting movement of the engine?
I can't help with the engine mount, but maybe that's a sign.
Not much info on how to do the conversion on this thread, but it's probably a similar route I would take if I owned your car, except for the coilovers.
https://www.205gtidrivers.com/forums/topic/175064-...
Not much info on how to do the conversion on this thread, but it's probably a similar route I would take if I owned your car, except for the coilovers.
https://www.205gtidrivers.com/forums/topic/175064-...
I feel a bit silly - I took the bracket off, lowered the engine, put bracket back on and lined it up in about 5 minutes. Doh. Glad I spent 200 quid on an engine hoist I didn't need...
I now have the timing belt on. I had the belt tight and turned the engine over by hand but it just didn't want to turn. I figured it was too tight so loosened off the nut on the tensioner pulley and loosened off the belt. I now can't get it to tighten. Ugh.
I now have the timing belt on. I had the belt tight and turned the engine over by hand but it just didn't want to turn. I figured it was too tight so loosened off the nut on the tensioner pulley and loosened off the belt. I now can't get it to tighten. Ugh.
So I appeared to get it sufficiently tight, tightened the tensioner pulley bolt, and manually turned the engine via the camshaft. It didn't turn smoothly - it was very tight and felt like it "jumped". After doing so the belt was much looser again.
I've just read that I should turn the engine by hand using the crankshaft ie bottom not camshaft ie top. Is that right? Hopefully I've not damaged the engine...
Should I try tightening the tensioner and then turning by crankshaft
I've just read that I should turn the engine by hand using the crankshaft ie bottom not camshaft ie top. Is that right? Hopefully I've not damaged the engine...
Should I try tightening the tensioner and then turning by crankshaft
Edited by PrinceRupert on Sunday 6th December 19:03
Glad you got the engine back in place. It's all a learning curve 
Regarding the timing, lock the flywheel in place again and then make sure the cam pulley still lines up with the locking hole. At that point it's also worth putting a tipex mark on the cambelt and pulley to make checking alignment easier later. And definitely only use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine.
I would also check the number of teeth on your cambelt matches the old one. There's more than one version so I always double check.
Regarding the timing, lock the flywheel in place again and then make sure the cam pulley still lines up with the locking hole. At that point it's also worth putting a tipex mark on the cambelt and pulley to make checking alignment easier later. And definitely only use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine.
I would also check the number of teeth on your cambelt matches the old one. There's more than one version so I always double check.
CarlosV8 said:
Glad you got the engine back in place. It's all a learning curve
Regarding the timing, lock the flywheel in place again and then make sure the cam pulley still lines up with the locking hole. At that point it's also worth putting a tipex mark on the cambelt and pulley to make checking alignment easier later. And definitely only use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine.
I would also check the number of teeth on your cambelt matches the old one. There's more than one version so I always double check.
Indeed a learning curve it is Regarding the timing, lock the flywheel in place again and then make sure the cam pulley still lines up with the locking hole. At that point it's also worth putting a tipex mark on the cambelt and pulley to make checking alignment easier later. And definitely only use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine.
I would also check the number of teeth on your cambelt matches the old one. There's more than one version so I always double check.
Do you mean lock flywheel, remove belt, spin camshaft to locking hole?
Given it is the flywheel that is locked not the crankshaft there is no way of checking if they still line up with the belt on.
The flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft, so by locking the flywheel you're also locking the crankshaft.
When trying to rotate the engine on the cam pulley was the locking pin still in the flywheel? If so the crankshaft would never rotate, so you could have caused the pulley to slip a tooth. Whatever you do don't force the cam pulley around with the flywheel locked, you don't want valves hitting pistons. I would suggest getting the belt off and carefully realign the cam pulley before putting the belt back on. Also check the belt isn't damaged.
When trying to rotate the engine on the cam pulley was the locking pin still in the flywheel? If so the crankshaft would never rotate, so you could have caused the pulley to slip a tooth. Whatever you do don't force the cam pulley around with the flywheel locked, you don't want valves hitting pistons. I would suggest getting the belt off and carefully realign the cam pulley before putting the belt back on. Also check the belt isn't damaged.
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