E46 330i Touring
Discussion
The CDV really is a pointless fitting for anyone who knows how to drive a car with a manual gearbox. 
DBW accelerators are supposed to adapt to driving style, but can be reset. Yours probably went back to the factory default after your battery die, but if it feels better that's great!
DBW accelerators are supposed to adapt to driving style, but can be reset. Yours probably went back to the factory default after your battery die, but if it feels better that's great!
Mr Tidy said:
The CDV really is a pointless fitting for anyone who knows how to drive a car with a manual gearbox.
DBW accelerators are supposed to adapt to driving style, but can be reset. Yours probably went back to the factory default after your battery die, but if it feels better that's great!
Honestly, I can't believe how much nicer it is without it. I've not driven a BMW without one for years.DBW accelerators are supposed to adapt to driving style, but can be reset. Yours probably went back to the factory default after your battery die, but if it feels better that's great!
True, I did reset it previously and mostly just noticed an smoother pedal response.. I did test it this morning on the work drag strip (old air field access road), and again, it felt like it was pulling harder mid range and up, and didn't have to try as hard to hit speeds at certain markers. I had zero expectation of feeling any difference in the engine by opening that valve, in fact it hadn't crossed my mind, but I am definitely noticing something currently. Meh, I'll mark it as over excitement. The exhaust does sound better always open, which is nice.
Edited by Jhonno on Tuesday 17th October 09:34
Random shot from Tesco car park the other night.. 200 miles in, feels like it is settling nicely. The handling is so much better, as is the ride, never mind the stance. Still not had it aligned, but it doesn't seem to be chewing tyres anymore and it's driving well on my string alignment. I'll save it for when I get the rear tyres changed.
Clean MOT pass today after the washers stopped working last night.. Grabbed a spare nozzle and solved it at 10pm. That one was leaking anyway. It had a pair of Goodyear Asymmetric 6's on the rear 2 weeks ago, the old tyres lasted longer than I thought after sorting the bushes.
Needs a new level sensor on the rear, but fixed with WD40 and a cable tie for now.
Insurance went up 30% this year, road tax is now >£400 a year for a ULEZ compliant car, but it's still driving really well. I had the alignment done, my string alignment was actually pretty damn close and I had zero thrust angle, I have ended up with 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front for reference..
Next job to sort is the new cam cover gasket started leaking again already. Will get that done this month.
Needs a new level sensor on the rear, but fixed with WD40 and a cable tie for now.
Insurance went up 30% this year, road tax is now >£400 a year for a ULEZ compliant car, but it's still driving really well. I had the alignment done, my string alignment was actually pretty damn close and I had zero thrust angle, I have ended up with 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front for reference..
Next job to sort is the new cam cover gasket started leaking again already. Will get that done this month.
Jhonno said:
Clean MOT pass today after the washers stopped working last night.. Grabbed a spare nozzle and solved it at 10pm. That one was leaking anyway. It had a pair of Goodyear Asymmetric 6's on the rear 2 weeks ago, the old tyres lasted longer than I thought after sorting the bushes.
Needs a new level sensor on the rear, but fixed with WD40 and a cable tie for now.
Insurance went up 30% this year, road tax is now >£400 a year for a ULEZ compliant car, but it's still driving really well. I had the alignment done, my string alignment was actually pretty damn close and I had zero thrust angle, I have ended up with 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front for reference..
Next job to sort is the new cam cover gasket started leaking again already. Will get that done this month.
Just a note on that, the half moon bits need a dab of RTV to stop them leaking. If it's popped out, might be worth checking the CCV valve, if that's clogged then it does cause the rocker gasket to pop a bit more often. Needs a new level sensor on the rear, but fixed with WD40 and a cable tie for now.
Insurance went up 30% this year, road tax is now >£400 a year for a ULEZ compliant car, but it's still driving really well. I had the alignment done, my string alignment was actually pretty damn close and I had zero thrust angle, I have ended up with 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front for reference..
Next job to sort is the new cam cover gasket started leaking again already. Will get that done this month.
A bit of an update
It's been a slightly eventful period, it's had a ride on a low loader, run out of fuel, blown damper..
Cam cover gasket has been done and no longer leaks, oil usage has subsequently reduced.
I went to Loughborough to pick up a crank for the Mustang and it ran out of electricity as the alternator brushes were worn down to a nub and the slip ring was worn well undersized.
Whilst it was sat awaiting an alternator I noticed a puddle of oil under the rear wheel, which I had thought was rain, turns out the 6 month old B8 had blown.
Then this weekend just gone, was off to see family and it cut out and then went off a roundabout, weird.. Thinking it was a throttle issue I nursed it and went through the back way rather than the M1.. A few miles later it was doing it more, so a thought passed through my head, I wonder if the fuel gauge is lying (saying I had 60 miles, fuel light had literally just come on).. I'll stick £10 in it and see.. Sadly fuel stations were non existent, and a few miles from my destination it conked out in a manner that made me think it had actually run out of fuel.. A quick call to my cousin and a short while later a can of petrol arrived and it fired right up.
So potentially needs a new sender..
Also, does anyone know how the wiring for the boot open sensor works? Mine reads permanently open, boot lights work as they should, wiper doesn't work. I'm going to replace the main lock actuator as it's missing the knob which connects it to the actual lock, so god knows how that works still. Ironically on the way back from the family gathering, the boot lights randomly came on whilst driving home..
It's been a slightly eventful period, it's had a ride on a low loader, run out of fuel, blown damper..
Cam cover gasket has been done and no longer leaks, oil usage has subsequently reduced.
I went to Loughborough to pick up a crank for the Mustang and it ran out of electricity as the alternator brushes were worn down to a nub and the slip ring was worn well undersized.
Whilst it was sat awaiting an alternator I noticed a puddle of oil under the rear wheel, which I had thought was rain, turns out the 6 month old B8 had blown.
Then this weekend just gone, was off to see family and it cut out and then went off a roundabout, weird.. Thinking it was a throttle issue I nursed it and went through the back way rather than the M1.. A few miles later it was doing it more, so a thought passed through my head, I wonder if the fuel gauge is lying (saying I had 60 miles, fuel light had literally just come on).. I'll stick £10 in it and see.. Sadly fuel stations were non existent, and a few miles from my destination it conked out in a manner that made me think it had actually run out of fuel.. A quick call to my cousin and a short while later a can of petrol arrived and it fired right up.
So potentially needs a new sender..
Also, does anyone know how the wiring for the boot open sensor works? Mine reads permanently open, boot lights work as they should, wiper doesn't work. I'm going to replace the main lock actuator as it's missing the knob which connects it to the actual lock, so god knows how that works still. Ironically on the way back from the family gathering, the boot lights randomly came on whilst driving home..
Jhonno said:
Also, does anyone know how the wiring for the boot open sensor works? Mine reads permanently open, boot lights work as they should, wiper doesn't work. I'm going to replace the main lock actuator as it's missing the knob which connects it to the actual lock, so god knows how that works still. Ironically on the way back from the family gathering, the boot lights randomly came on whilst driving home..
I've got an issue with the rear heater not working either. But from what i read around, the wiring tracks through the door jams apparently tend to fray inside the boot and causes shorts.I've got to have another go and see if i can find the break in mine for the rear heater circuit as it's not getting any power.
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