2003 BMW 530iA Sport Touring (E39)
Discussion
I haven't updated for a few months. I took it to a new-to-me German service specialist to check the overall suspension and steering. As I feared the rack was shot along with cooked PAS fluid. A new rack, TREs and £1,300 later and it's driving a lot better. It's still way too camber sensitive for my liking and compared against my old 2.5.
I took it back as the steering wheel was still on the piss to the right and it had another go at alignment on its Hunter machine.
After rack fitted and how it was when I collected:
Second attempt:
A bit of an improvement but the steering wheel is still off to the right. It said the next step was to replace all the suspension and with that wonderful attempt at diagnosis, I bid it farewell. I will book it in with WiM. I may replace the tyres to all-seasons but cash is not coming in at the moment so they will have to wait.
I then booked in to my usual garage and asked it to check over the work done and inspect the suspension. It gave it the all-clear. At the same time it reset the EML (fault code relating to fuel tank vent valve and fuel trim). £48 today please sir.
I hadn't had the ABS light return since the rack was fitted a month prior, not that I had driven it more than 100 miles, and as I drove out of the garage it came back on! I had cleaned one sensor but I really CBA with it so I will book it back in.
I took it back as the steering wheel was still on the piss to the right and it had another go at alignment on its Hunter machine.
After rack fitted and how it was when I collected:
Second attempt:
A bit of an improvement but the steering wheel is still off to the right. It said the next step was to replace all the suspension and with that wonderful attempt at diagnosis, I bid it farewell. I will book it in with WiM. I may replace the tyres to all-seasons but cash is not coming in at the moment so they will have to wait.
I then booked in to my usual garage and asked it to check over the work done and inspect the suspension. It gave it the all-clear. At the same time it reset the EML (fault code relating to fuel tank vent valve and fuel trim). £48 today please sir.
I hadn't had the ABS light return since the rack was fitted a month prior, not that I had driven it more than 100 miles, and as I drove out of the garage it came back on! I had cleaned one sensor but I really CBA with it so I will book it back in.
The whole suspension doesn't need replacing; unless it's ALL shot...
More than likely the inner tie rods & track rod ends are seized; replace them, both sides and then get the alignment re-done...
Those parts seize for fun and they're a bugger to sort; so it's easier to replace them in one go
Moog, Meyle or Lemforder parts will soon have it sorted
More than likely the inner tie rods & track rod ends are seized; replace them, both sides and then get the alignment re-done...
Those parts seize for fun and they're a bugger to sort; so it's easier to replace them in one go
Moog, Meyle or Lemforder parts will soon have it sorted
MoT day and it's passed but only as the garage reset the lights before test. He's good that way. He printed off the codes
EML: 'motor electronics DME activation solenoid tank valve ventilation'
ABS light: '000077 DSC - pressure sensor zero deviation'
'000058 DSC - pre-charge pump'
'0000 - brake lamp switch plausible'
I am now off to seach the interwebs and find out more
£68 today please sir.
EML: 'motor electronics DME activation solenoid tank valve ventilation'
ABS light: '000077 DSC - pressure sensor zero deviation'
'000058 DSC - pre-charge pump'
'0000 - brake lamp switch plausible'
I am now off to seach the interwebs and find out more
£68 today please sir.
From this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... I have splashed out £2 for a new fuel cap seal. I have just driven 10 miles and so far no EML. Fingers crossed.
It's booked in next Thursday to remove the incorrect hydraulic fluid from the PAS and replace with ATF.
It's booked in next Thursday to remove the incorrect hydraulic fluid from the PAS and replace with ATF.
An overdue update
The fuel cap seal was not the answer to the EML so I ordered the fuel tank vent valve under the intake manifold. The MoT was due in January so I booked in for that, fit the valve and a small service.
On the way to the garage it lost all drive and I feared the worst and that the 'box had failed. It came back and I made it the one mile to the garage.
The transmission cooler had failed and dumped the ATF in the car park at the garage, and I also found a pool back home where the car was parked. (any ideas how to mop that up? Kitty litter has not worked)
Thus what I expected to be a modest bill turned out to be new radiator + coolant, trans cooler, ATF + filter, small service, fit the valve and MoT (pass with no advisories - hooray). It came in at just under £1,000.
The EML has not come on since but I still have the ABS light randomly (didn't come on for the test fortunately)
With fewer than 1,500 miles in two years this has cost more than £1.60 per mile in repairs. Joy.
The fuel cap seal was not the answer to the EML so I ordered the fuel tank vent valve under the intake manifold. The MoT was due in January so I booked in for that, fit the valve and a small service.
On the way to the garage it lost all drive and I feared the worst and that the 'box had failed. It came back and I made it the one mile to the garage.
The transmission cooler had failed and dumped the ATF in the car park at the garage, and I also found a pool back home where the car was parked. (any ideas how to mop that up? Kitty litter has not worked)
Thus what I expected to be a modest bill turned out to be new radiator + coolant, trans cooler, ATF + filter, small service, fit the valve and MoT (pass with no advisories - hooray). It came in at just under £1,000.
The EML has not come on since but I still have the ABS light randomly (didn't come on for the test fortunately)
With fewer than 1,500 miles in two years this has cost more than £1.60 per mile in repairs. Joy.
On the E39 I had, the ABS light was the ABS module itself, which was deemed beyond repair by one of the ECU testing type companies.
I was lucky to pickup a NOS unit off Ebay for £350.
My EML also came on randomly, and then one day came on and never went off - this turned out to be the PCV system (pipes under the manifold had split).
Ironically I seem to have the same issue with my E46 325Ci at the moment - I'm presuming that too is the PCV system.
I was lucky to pickup a NOS unit off Ebay for £350.
My EML also came on randomly, and then one day came on and never went off - this turned out to be the PCV system (pipes under the manifold had split).
Ironically I seem to have the same issue with my E46 325Ci at the moment - I'm presuming that too is the PCV system.
I read on BimmerWorld of one person who fixed his ABS light with a brake bleed. As this is a low cost thing to try I popped over to a mate's yesterday who has a decent workshop and necessary tools. There was a lot of air in the system especially the rear lines; it took nearly a litre of fluid. I drove back from his and so far so good but it's early days as there is no distinctive pattern as to when it will happen.
The EML came on again with the bank 1 and 2 lean codes pointing towards a vacuum leak somewhere. I messed about with the intake hose to the air flow meter as it did not seem fully home and it went out. If that is it then a very fortunate and easy repair. It has not come back on since.
I have a noisy pulley somewhere. It is worse with the aircon on but still there slightly with it off. I need to probe further but I hope it is a idler pulley that is shot and not a compressor bearing.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7_SePbK6hEc
The EML came on again with the bank 1 and 2 lean codes pointing towards a vacuum leak somewhere. I messed about with the intake hose to the air flow meter as it did not seem fully home and it went out. If that is it then a very fortunate and easy repair. It has not come back on since.
I have a noisy pulley somewhere. It is worse with the aircon on but still there slightly with it off. I need to probe further but I hope it is a idler pulley that is shot and not a compressor bearing.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7_SePbK6hEc
tobinen said:
I read on BimmerWorld of one person who fixed his ABS light with a brake bleed. As this is a low cost thing to try I popped over to a mate's yesterday who has a decent workshop and necessary tools. There was a lot of air in the system especially the rear lines; it took nearly a litre of fluid. I drove back from his and so far so good but it's early days as there is no distinctive pattern as to when it will happen.
The EML came on again with the bank 1 and 2 lean codes pointing towards a vacuum leak somewhere. I messed about with the intake hose to the air flow meter as it did not seem fully home and it went out. If that is it then a very fortunate and easy repair. It has not come back on since.
I have a noisy pulley somewhere. It is worse with the aircon on but still there slightly with it off. I need to probe further but I hope it is a idler pulley that is shot and not a compressor bearing.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7_SePbK6hEc
Check the intake boot just behind the airbox pal; there's a plenum there that the hose around it can crack and it's hard to see, but lets in air after the MAFThe EML came on again with the bank 1 and 2 lean codes pointing towards a vacuum leak somewhere. I messed about with the intake hose to the air flow meter as it did not seem fully home and it went out. If that is it then a very fortunate and easy repair. It has not come back on since.
I have a noisy pulley somewhere. It is worse with the aircon on but still there slightly with it off. I need to probe further but I hope it is a idler pulley that is shot and not a compressor bearing.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7_SePbK6hEc
And then there's the usual culprits (vac lines, bung on the back of the block, the ribbed areas crack; the pipe to the TB cracks too etc)
Re pulleys; spray them with WD40; which ever one goes quiet, that's the one that needs to be replaced
No warning lights for 2 days so I was feeling a bit better, but no. Just when I sort two warning lights then the dreaded transmission warning on the display. Plugged in and it's P0741 torque converter code. It's definitely slipping.
A quick search and it's not something that seems readily available. Any recommended suppliers for a TC?
A quick search and it's not something that seems readily available. Any recommended suppliers for a TC?
tobinen said:
I read on BimmerWorld of one person who fixed his ABS light with a brake bleed. As this is a low cost thing to try I popped over to a mate's yesterday who has a decent workshop and necessary tools. There was a lot of air in the system especially the rear lines; it took nearly a litre of fluid. I drove back from his and so far so good but it's early days as there is no distinctive pattern as to when it will happen.
The EML came on again with the bank 1 and 2 lean codes pointing towards a vacuum leak somewhere. I messed about with the intake hose to the air flow meter as it did not seem fully home and it went out. If that is it then a very fortunate and easy repair. It has not come back on since.
I have a noisy pulley somewhere. It is worse with the aircon on but still there slightly with it off. I need to probe further but I hope it is a idler pulley that is shot and not a compressor bearing.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7_SePbK6hEc
In regards to the EML(especially when it comes to AFR errors) I always have to ask what fuel is being used? E39s are a mixed bag, some can have any fuel chucked in and be fine, where as others(mine included) will be fine on E5 Super Unleaded, but if regular E10 is used then the EML light will come in alongside lean running codes.The EML came on again with the bank 1 and 2 lean codes pointing towards a vacuum leak somewhere. I messed about with the intake hose to the air flow meter as it did not seem fully home and it went out. If that is it then a very fortunate and easy repair. It has not come back on since.
I have a noisy pulley somewhere. It is worse with the aircon on but still there slightly with it off. I need to probe further but I hope it is a idler pulley that is shot and not a compressor bearing.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7_SePbK6hEc
In regards to your pulley noise, I doubt it’ll be the idler pulley as having the AC on or off will have zero effect on the idler pulley, it’s only function is to keep the belt tensioned, any resistance from other pulleys will have no effect on it.
Because the noise is related to the AC, it’s definitely down to the AC compressor, my first port of call would be to make sure the system is fully gassed up as low AC pressure can cause compressor noise. AC compressors are fairly inexpensive for the M52 though, so I wouldn’t be too concerned if a replacement is required.
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