The 'Oh crap, I won it' E39 530i
Discussion
swampy442 said:
Weekend job - heater valve. Painless, too 10 minutes, no need for an in depth how to. Obvious why the old one wasn't working.
On a side note everything Ive touched so far looks to be original, so Im assuming I'll be changing a lot of bits soon lol.
Looks like the troublesome intake pipe was replaced recently though
New valve vs old valve
Also had a look into the drivers door speaker not working, looks like there's no power getting to it so more invest required on that front
Which heater valve did you go for in the end?On a side note everything Ive touched so far looks to be original, so Im assuming I'll be changing a lot of bits soon lol.
Looks like the troublesome intake pipe was replaced recently though
New valve vs old valve
Also had a look into the drivers door speaker not working, looks like there's no power getting to it so more invest required on that front
I bought 2 new ones off eBay; but crapped themselves within 3-4months, both claimed back. Bought the Febi one at c£80 and zero issues since
Yeah; the intake boots are common issues; they crack around the TB end where the ribs are, and where the small section connects to the TB itself underneath and they can crack on that resonator section and it's very hard to see
The Febi parts are best to go for, c£15/£20 each IIRC and if you get the Febi BMW Z3 3.0i main section that connects to the MAF; it does away with that resonator
Just a generic Ebay one, seems to work fine
New arms ready, thought I'd do them today but theres slightly more work involved than anticipated, but here's a look at the horrors that await
Also the rear inner lights are beyond recovery, but turns out that facelift wagon inner rear lights are pretty expensive!
New arms ready, thought I'd do them today but theres slightly more work involved than anticipated, but here's a look at the horrors that await
Also the rear inner lights are beyond recovery, but turns out that facelift wagon inner rear lights are pretty expensive!
Finally I've got a conundrum - The auto box works faultlessly, I checked the fluid level earlier (took a breaker bar to get the fill plug out, doesn't bode well) and it was low and clearly past its best.
Ive serviced every auto box Ive ever had without issue, bar one, the V12 Merc which failed shortly afterwards. Some say change the oil, some say leave it alone. What do I do?
Ive serviced every auto box Ive ever had without issue, bar one, the V12 Merc which failed shortly afterwards. Some say change the oil, some say leave it alone. What do I do?
If the box is fine, I would leave it. Make sure the level is right, and that's about it. If you ruin the box with a change, then you've spent money on a fluid and filter change (and now a gearbox) if you leave it, and six months down the like the box fails, you've saved the money on fluids and a filter.
I’d change fluid and filter but pay very careful attention to getting the level right - when I did the ZF box on my E38 it too three days of top ups after cold starts to get the level up to the correct place from memory 500ml then 250ml then another 250 ml was added (you don’t have much time before the box hits 30 deg either)
I’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
I’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
B'stard Child said:
swampy442 said:
They'd come up fine with wet and dry and then a compound IMOswampy442 said:
Just a generic Ebay one, seems to work fine
New arms ready, thought I'd do them today but theres slightly more work involved than anticipated, but here's a look at the horrors that await
Also the rear inner lights are beyond recovery, but turns out that facelift wagon inner rear lights are pretty expensive!
Well through experience; keep your eye on it. 2 failed on me; fingers crossed yours doesn't follow suit New arms ready, thought I'd do them today but theres slightly more work involved than anticipated, but here's a look at the horrors that await
Also the rear inner lights are beyond recovery, but turns out that facelift wagon inner rear lights are pretty expensive!
The arms aren't too bad; not on my touring, but both previous E39s the bolts were very well seized; I found Wurth Rost Off Ice to be invaluable; it works superbly
B'stard Child said:
I’d change fluid and filter but pay very careful attention to getting the level right - when I did the ZF box on my E38 it too three days of top ups after cold starts to get the level up to the correct place from memory 500ml then 250ml then another 250 ml was added (you don’t have much time before the box hits 30 deg either)
I’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
I'm in this camp too; although I'd pay to get mine serviced by a properly Autobox specialist, I've no idea what I'm doing, so not a DIY for meI’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
But other folk haven't touched theirs and their boxes have run smoothly and never any issues etc...
d_a_n1979 said:
But other folk haven't touched theirs and their boxes have run smoothly and never any issues etc...
The main reason I say to leave it is a box builder has said to me before that the detergency of ATF can remove bits that are happily lodged in parts of the box. If something was low mileage then I would do it, but once it's been left so long I'd be concerned about doing the box oils.Also, my dad has an X5 with the 3.0 and auto transmission. He's had it from new and the gearbox oil has never been changed. It's on 254,000 miles now.
JakeT said:
d_a_n1979 said:
But other folk haven't touched theirs and their boxes have run smoothly and never any issues etc...
The main reason I say to leave it is a box builder has said to me before that the detergency of ATF can remove bits that are happily lodged in parts of the box. If something was low mileage then I would do it, but once it's been left so long I'd be concerned about doing the box oils.Also, my dad has an X5 with the 3.0 and auto transmission. He's had it from new and the gearbox oil has never been changed. It's on 254,000 miles now.
Thats where the 2 camps come into play etc
As you said; those with high miles just tend to leave it; unless it's leaking or has issues that are clear when driving; it's kind of fixing something that isn't broken...
Then again other folk have changed fluids & filters at high miles and zero issues since... It can be luck of the draw I reckon...
B'stard Child said:
I’d change fluid and filter but pay very careful attention to getting the level right - when I did the ZF box on my E38 it too three days of top ups after cold starts to get the level up to the correct place from memory 500ml then 250ml then another 250 ml was added (you don’t have much time before the box hits 30 deg either)
I’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
Thats a fair point, this one is already low on fluid even when its warm so I've gotta make a call fast I thinkI’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
swampy442 said:
B'stard Child said:
I’d change fluid and filter but pay very careful attention to getting the level right - when I did the ZF box on my E38 it too three days of top ups after cold starts to get the level up to the correct place from memory 500ml then 250ml then another 250 ml was added (you don’t have much time before the box hits 30 deg either)
I’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
Thats a fair point, this one is already low on fluid even when its warm so I've gotta make a call fast I thinkI’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
B'stard Child said:
swampy442 said:
B'stard Child said:
I’d change fluid and filter but pay very careful attention to getting the level right - when I did the ZF box on my E38 it too three days of top ups after cold starts to get the level up to the correct place from memory 500ml then 250ml then another 250 ml was added (you don’t have much time before the box hits 30 deg either)
I’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
Thats a fair point, this one is already low on fluid even when its warm so I've gotta make a call fast I thinkI’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
swampy442 said:
B'stard Child said:
They'd come up fine with wet and dry and then a compound IMO
I tried a bit of wet and dry on the other side and it just made it cloudier. The lens is also pretty brittle https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/132523-refurbing-re...
d_a_n1979 said:
B'stard Child said:
swampy442 said:
B'stard Child said:
I’d change fluid and filter but pay very careful attention to getting the level right - when I did the ZF box on my E38 it too three days of top ups after cold starts to get the level up to the correct place from memory 500ml then 250ml then another 250 ml was added (you don’t have much time before the box hits 30 deg either)
I’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
Thats a fair point, this one is already low on fluid even when its warm so I've gotta make a call fast I thinkI’m convinced that box failures after fluid changes are down to level being too low or the box was already buggered and nothing was going to save it.
My insurance policy is that I have a 75,000 mile spare in my garage. Just in case!
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