630i lci shenanigans.
Discussion
Hi all first readers car!
I've been leasing for the last 6 years or so but after a year of lease payments and near zero miles, along with the fact I work in the aviation industry meant I wanted to buy something this time round. Something 'interesting' was the brief.
So yesterday I collected a 2007 630i, 95k loads of history but a little rough around the edges. I knew it needed rocker cover gasket doing and also probably a thermostat as its slow to warm up and the price was negotiated accordingly.
Only pic I have for now
So on the journey home I encountered a problem. CEL on and reduced power. Bugger. Obd read and was coming up with p3090 and my heart sank a little as its related to the dreaded hp fuel system. Anyway reset the code and set off. Came straight back on, it was driving absolutely fine so set off for home. After another pee stop the code had cleared and stayed off for another 200 miles. Then just before home it returned and a bit of rougher running.
I did a quick bit of diagnostics this morning and the lp side is kicking out 5 bar solid and the rail pressure is fluctuating, am also getting rough start and idle now too, So it looks like the hp fuel pump is dying, a very common issue and one I knew could bite me at some point. The seller was genuinely shocked and offered to contribute. However I got the car cheap and I'd feel bad taking money from him, the car idled and performed faultlessly on the test drive and was free of fault codes pre and post test drive. Just bad luck it happened when it did.
I will get some more pics up when I start digging into it. Despite the issue the car drove lovely on the way home.
Steve.
BTW if any bmw guys in here have done a hpfp on the N53 where did you source a pump?
I've been leasing for the last 6 years or so but after a year of lease payments and near zero miles, along with the fact I work in the aviation industry meant I wanted to buy something this time round. Something 'interesting' was the brief.
So yesterday I collected a 2007 630i, 95k loads of history but a little rough around the edges. I knew it needed rocker cover gasket doing and also probably a thermostat as its slow to warm up and the price was negotiated accordingly.
Only pic I have for now
So on the journey home I encountered a problem. CEL on and reduced power. Bugger. Obd read and was coming up with p3090 and my heart sank a little as its related to the dreaded hp fuel system. Anyway reset the code and set off. Came straight back on, it was driving absolutely fine so set off for home. After another pee stop the code had cleared and stayed off for another 200 miles. Then just before home it returned and a bit of rougher running.
I did a quick bit of diagnostics this morning and the lp side is kicking out 5 bar solid and the rail pressure is fluctuating, am also getting rough start and idle now too, So it looks like the hp fuel pump is dying, a very common issue and one I knew could bite me at some point. The seller was genuinely shocked and offered to contribute. However I got the car cheap and I'd feel bad taking money from him, the car idled and performed faultlessly on the test drive and was free of fault codes pre and post test drive. Just bad luck it happened when it did.
I will get some more pics up when I start digging into it. Despite the issue the car drove lovely on the way home.
Steve.
BTW if any bmw guys in here have done a hpfp on the N53 where did you source a pump?
Lovely cars , I’ve got an N52 630i and Mrs Fb has an N63 650i.
Check injector index too while you are at it, they are prone to failure very early on. One car I looked at had them replaced at 44k from BMW and when the car was up for sale at 90k it had 3 knackered ones already !
Great cars, look forwards to you progress on it.
Check injector index too while you are at it, they are prone to failure very early on. One car I looked at had them replaced at 44k from BMW and when the car was up for sale at 90k it had 3 knackered ones already !
Great cars, look forwards to you progress on it.
fastbikes76 said:
Lovely cars , I’ve got an N52 630i and Mrs Fb has an N63 650i.
Check injector index too while you are at it, they are prone to failure very early on. One car I looked at had them replaced at 44k from BMW and when the car was up for sale at 90k it had 3 knackered ones already !
Great cars, look forwards to you progress on it.
It was your threads that made me start to really consider an e63 and after driving one I was sold. I hope over time to get the car to as good a standard as yours.Check injector index too while you are at it, they are prone to failure very early on. One car I looked at had them replaced at 44k from BMW and when the car was up for sale at 90k it had 3 knackered ones already !
Great cars, look forwards to you progress on it.
I am aware of the injector issues aswell, although if an injector issue I would expect to see a cylinder misfire code?
I think the current plan is to go for a pump and while I've got it apart I'll do the rocker gasket and ccv aswell.
They list one on carparts4less/ecp that's suitable for the other n53 engined cars but doesn't specifically state for the e63 but my understanding is they are all the same. I'll also give my local and also cotswold bmw a bell tomorrow to get some prices.
Also needs 2 front tyres as they are perishing/cracking and I'd may as well do the rears too as I want to ditch the run flats. It's going to be an expensive week
Thanks for the recommendation I'll take a look at the Falken.
So went out to start the car again and was spot on no hiccups or roughness or any fault codes. On bimmerlink I set up the lp and hp pressures and I got this.
Which shows the hp pump is low. Should be up around 200bar.
Then set it recording and went for short drive. Hp pressure was now up at 200 as it should be, LP remained solid at 5bar.
Start/restart idle or driving its now staying bang on the 200bar. Hmm
Maybe need to have a look at the fuel rail hp pressure sensor, but then again I can't see the sensor causing the lumpy/long starting?
So went out to start the car again and was spot on no hiccups or roughness or any fault codes. On bimmerlink I set up the lp and hp pressures and I got this.
Which shows the hp pump is low. Should be up around 200bar.
Then set it recording and went for short drive. Hp pressure was now up at 200 as it should be, LP remained solid at 5bar.
Start/restart idle or driving its now staying bang on the 200bar. Hmm
Maybe need to have a look at the fuel rail hp pressure sensor, but then again I can't see the sensor causing the lumpy/long starting?
My old 325i (N53) was brilliant. It had the HPFP/Injector recalls carried out before my ownership but whilst I was digging around I noticed it had a few original injectors and a couple of index 11’s. It still ran very sweetly with an occasionally rough idle from cold which was solved when I later replaced the valve cover and gasket. They can develop hairline cracks particularly around the oil filler cap which means oil filled spark plug wells - another potential cause of lumpiness or rough running. Be sure to check your valve cover is sound if you plan on just doing the gasket. The CCV is integrated into the valve cover on the N53 and again this can cause many issues. Good luck with it, always had a soft spot for the bangle-era 6 series.
So the investigative work continued today.
Regards the fuel pump issue. I haven't had any issues again as yet. Started perfectly this morning. Did a 20 mile drive and no further faults. I'm under no illusion its gone away but I'm not chucking an 800 quid part at it without a confirmed issue.
After I'd bought the full bimmerlink license I did a full scan of the car. Came up with a few codes mostly to do with the electric water pump and thermostat. I'd envisaged having to replace the stat as it seems slow to warm up. However the bounds of bodgery of some folk knows no limits.
This is the electric water pump connector.
Yes that is a wood screw with a wire wrapped around it
So after disconnecting the battery I made up a temp fix while I wait for a replacement plug. I also cleaned up the thermostat plug and made sure it was fully seated.
Hopefull that would clear all the codes I reconnected the battery and left it running. The elec fan didn't come on straight away which it had been doing which was a good sign. However I'm still left with code 2e85 which is a water pump comms message. So the dodgy wiring may have caused its demise or it may just be due. The seller told me itd had a new water pump however I can't find a receipt for one and it looks original.
I noticed the rear of the engine was a little damp with oil so had a good look and it wasn't any higher than sump gasket level. So gave it all a clean up and then after idling noticed its coming from the sump bolts. Can just about see it here;
I remember fastbikes having a similar issue on one of his and it was the sump bolts so have ordered a set up.
The car has been sat for a good few months and it really shows in places. It's really grubby throughout and needs a full scrub top to bottom once I've got some of the mechanical issues sorted.
As she currently sits.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/VYZTiY36[/url]
Regards the fuel pump issue. I haven't had any issues again as yet. Started perfectly this morning. Did a 20 mile drive and no further faults. I'm under no illusion its gone away but I'm not chucking an 800 quid part at it without a confirmed issue.
After I'd bought the full bimmerlink license I did a full scan of the car. Came up with a few codes mostly to do with the electric water pump and thermostat. I'd envisaged having to replace the stat as it seems slow to warm up. However the bounds of bodgery of some folk knows no limits.
This is the electric water pump connector.
Yes that is a wood screw with a wire wrapped around it
So after disconnecting the battery I made up a temp fix while I wait for a replacement plug. I also cleaned up the thermostat plug and made sure it was fully seated.
Hopefull that would clear all the codes I reconnected the battery and left it running. The elec fan didn't come on straight away which it had been doing which was a good sign. However I'm still left with code 2e85 which is a water pump comms message. So the dodgy wiring may have caused its demise or it may just be due. The seller told me itd had a new water pump however I can't find a receipt for one and it looks original.
I noticed the rear of the engine was a little damp with oil so had a good look and it wasn't any higher than sump gasket level. So gave it all a clean up and then after idling noticed its coming from the sump bolts. Can just about see it here;
I remember fastbikes having a similar issue on one of his and it was the sump bolts so have ordered a set up.
The car has been sat for a good few months and it really shows in places. It's really grubby throughout and needs a full scrub top to bottom once I've got some of the mechanical issues sorted.
As she currently sits.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/VYZTiY36[/url]B'stard Child said:
sdh2903 said:
So the investigative work continued today.
This is the electric water pump connector.
Yes that is a wood screw with a wire wrapped around it
This is the electric water pump connector.
Yes that is a wood screw with a wire wrapped around it
that is bodgetastic and shocking at the same time!!!!
don’t you just love finding stuff like this and pausing for reflection.......... thinking WTF else...Waiting for the sump bolts so started on giving the old girl a scrub.
Firstly the scuttle drains were all full of crap so cleaned them out.
Cabin filters don't look too clever either so have ordered a couple of Mann filters (tenner each) vs the dealer price of 48 each.
Wheels were a disgrace. This was after power washing.
After wheel cleaner went for some fallout cleaner
And then another go with some neat bilberry they have come up OK.
Just gave the body a quick wash for now as Im waiting on a touch up kit before going any deeper on the paint.
And gave the engine bay a quick once over.
After a short drove today the water pump code hasn't returned so hopefully I've dodged a pump change for now. Have sourced a replacement connector aswell to fix it properly.
Firstly the scuttle drains were all full of crap so cleaned them out.
Cabin filters don't look too clever either so have ordered a couple of Mann filters (tenner each) vs the dealer price of 48 each.
Wheels were a disgrace. This was after power washing.
After wheel cleaner went for some fallout cleaner
And then another go with some neat bilberry they have come up OK.
Just gave the body a quick wash for now as Im waiting on a touch up kit before going any deeper on the paint.
And gave the engine bay a quick once over.
After a short drove today the water pump code hasn't returned so hopefully I've dodged a pump change for now. Have sourced a replacement connector aswell to fix it properly.
Imagine being the person to do that to a connector with a woodscrew in there when you can order up a new connector from BMW so easily.
As others have said, I really like the E36 6 series now. I think the 630i is the pick of the bunch, as their problems are all easily fixable ones. A friend has one, and even doing the injectors was a mornings work with little effort. A copy of BMW INPA and ISTA is a great way to 'truly' diagnose these engines, as they're getting on a bit now. They're very smart, though. Direct injection with the ability to run in a fully stratified mode, with three injections per cycle. Lots of people, even in the trade don't understand these engines fully and just fire the parts cannon at them. Some MOT machines also don't enter the details properly and will fail them, even though they're fine. This is because they can run outside of the normal Lambda = 1 situations.
You can get really good fuel economy out of these as a result of the above. I've had 49.5MPG showing on the gauge when using an N53 powered 630i, and I would bet it was about right. Some reading is good around the Lean NOx trap too, and BimmerProfs have some good information. They also do a NOxEM device which restores fully stratified running if the NOx trap has aged.
As others have said, I really like the E36 6 series now. I think the 630i is the pick of the bunch, as their problems are all easily fixable ones. A friend has one, and even doing the injectors was a mornings work with little effort. A copy of BMW INPA and ISTA is a great way to 'truly' diagnose these engines, as they're getting on a bit now. They're very smart, though. Direct injection with the ability to run in a fully stratified mode, with three injections per cycle. Lots of people, even in the trade don't understand these engines fully and just fire the parts cannon at them. Some MOT machines also don't enter the details properly and will fail them, even though they're fine. This is because they can run outside of the normal Lambda = 1 situations.
You can get really good fuel economy out of these as a result of the above. I've had 49.5MPG showing on the gauge when using an N53 powered 630i, and I would bet it was about right. Some reading is good around the Lean NOx trap too, and BimmerProfs have some good information. They also do a NOxEM device which restores fully stratified running if the NOx trap has aged.
JakeT said:
Imagine being the person to do that to a connector with a woodscrew in there when you can order up a new connector from BMW so easily.
Indeed. I can sort of understand thinking out of the box when the proper fix is £££. But when the plug is available for pennies I actually struggled to get one from bmw. But readily available elsewhere.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9441491-A0001530842-4-W...
Great to see another E63/E64 on these pages!
My personal preference is the 4.8 V8, but can appreciate the 3.0 6. I now have the 5.0 V10 in the M6.
Here was my old 650i
Loved that car, never really went wrong or cost me lots of money despite the scare stories
Looking forward to future updates!
My personal preference is the 4.8 V8, but can appreciate the 3.0 6. I now have the 5.0 V10 in the M6.
Here was my old 650i
Loved that car, never really went wrong or cost me lots of money despite the scare stories
Looking forward to future updates!
Lovely example. Will be keeping my eye on this one going forward. I myself have a 2006 N52 630i and absolutely love it. Wouldn't say they're the most practical cars going; however, they're lovely to drive and well at home having a cruise. Don't see all too many out on the road nowadays - where aboust are you based roughly?
Sump bolts arrived at the local dealers so got on with changing them. Must admit have never used many aluminium bolts, you can see the bit of sealant on the threads.
And now not weeping.
Pollen filters replaced. Not the worst I've seen but still grubby.
Tail pipes were clatty, gave them a quick clean up, they are badly pitted so not much effort in getting them perfect but definitly better.
Started on the Interior. The seats didn't look too bad. The bucket says different. Yuk.
So all the interior cleaned up and the leather given a coat of balm. The front floor mats needed a pressure wash as they were beyond a hoover. Much nicer place to sit now (and it smells better too)
Back onto the important (and expensive) mechanical issues. After a drive today I got 5 fault codes, 4 were related to the nox sensor (2b05, 2b06, 2b07 and 2afb) and then the hp fuel one (29f2) along with the warning message. Bugger.
I've been doing a lot of reading up on the issues on bimmer profs, some great info on there. As far as I can tell the 2 issues aren't related and the nox sensor shouldn't bring on the 29f2 message and put it into reduced power. Have dropped bimmerprofs an email to see their thoughts as I'll probably order their sensor emulator.
According to the Info my rail pressure when starting is starting in 'safe' mode at 160 bar. Today when the message came on it put the hp pump into full bypass and was just the lp fuel pressure at the rail. I wouldn't have thought it would have run at all if that was the case? Think I need to get a gauge to plug into the rail to see if it correlates to what the sensor is chucking out.
Plug arrived late today so I can do the proper fix on the water pump hopefully over the weekend.
And now not weeping.
Pollen filters replaced. Not the worst I've seen but still grubby.
Tail pipes were clatty, gave them a quick clean up, they are badly pitted so not much effort in getting them perfect but definitly better.
Started on the Interior. The seats didn't look too bad. The bucket says different. Yuk.
So all the interior cleaned up and the leather given a coat of balm. The front floor mats needed a pressure wash as they were beyond a hoover. Much nicer place to sit now (and it smells better too)
Back onto the important (and expensive) mechanical issues. After a drive today I got 5 fault codes, 4 were related to the nox sensor (2b05, 2b06, 2b07 and 2afb) and then the hp fuel one (29f2) along with the warning message. Bugger.
I've been doing a lot of reading up on the issues on bimmer profs, some great info on there. As far as I can tell the 2 issues aren't related and the nox sensor shouldn't bring on the 29f2 message and put it into reduced power. Have dropped bimmerprofs an email to see their thoughts as I'll probably order their sensor emulator.
According to the Info my rail pressure when starting is starting in 'safe' mode at 160 bar. Today when the message came on it put the hp pump into full bypass and was just the lp fuel pressure at the rail. I wouldn't have thought it would have run at all if that was the case? Think I need to get a gauge to plug into the rail to see if it correlates to what the sensor is chucking out.
Plug arrived late today so I can do the proper fix on the water pump hopefully over the weekend.
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