BMW E91 335d M Sport Touring
Discussion
Court_S said:
That’s a pisser about the pulley. I think a lot of people don’t both changer the belts / pulleys until they’re shagged…it’s something that I certainly need to do on both of ours.
Is access as tight on the diesels as it is on the petrols?
Just over 100k mine went. So I’ve done this myself on a n57 330d. I’m assuming its going to be similar to the M57. Is access as tight on the diesels as it is on the petrols?
Easy job. Took me a couple hours and figuring it out as I went along.
You need to remove the radiator fan to gain access to the front of the engine.
T50 bit for the pulleys and tensioner.
4x E13 female torx bolt holding the crankshaft pulley.
Difficult part would be stopping the crankshaft from rotating when undoing and tightening the 4 bolts.
My 3/8 impact fitted with a stubby socket so removing was simple.
Torquing the bolts after was a bit of a mission. Used the old belt and a pair of mole grips to hold the crank pulley still whilst tightening. I think it was 40nm plus 120 degrees (might be incorrect).
I’d say a 5/10 on the hynes manual scale.
sam.rog said:
Just over 100k mine went. So I’ve done this myself on a n57 330d. I’m assuming its going to be similar to the M57.
Easy job. Took me a couple hours and figuring it out as I went along.
You need to remove the radiator fan to gain access to the front of the engine.
T50 bit for the pulleys and tensioner.
4x E13 female torx bolt holding the crankshaft pulley.
Difficult part would be stopping the crankshaft from rotating when undoing and tightening the 4 bolts.
My 3/8 impact fitted with a stubby socket so removing was simple.
Torquing the bolts after was a bit of a mission. Used the old belt and a pair of mole grips to hold the crank pulley still whilst tightening. I think it was 40nm plus 120 degrees (might be incorrect).
I’d say a 5/10 on the hynes manual scale.
Sounds similar to the M57, pulley bolts are E12 on that. I locked the crank with at the flywheel with the pin to undo the bolts. Same torque.Easy job. Took me a couple hours and figuring it out as I went along.
You need to remove the radiator fan to gain access to the front of the engine.
T50 bit for the pulleys and tensioner.
4x E13 female torx bolt holding the crankshaft pulley.
Difficult part would be stopping the crankshaft from rotating when undoing and tightening the 4 bolts.
My 3/8 impact fitted with a stubby socket so removing was simple.
Torquing the bolts after was a bit of a mission. Used the old belt and a pair of mole grips to hold the crank pulley still whilst tightening. I think it was 40nm plus 120 degrees (might be incorrect).
I’d say a 5/10 on the hynes manual scale.
helix402 said:
pmorg4 said:
Is that a diesel specific part to dampen the vibration? I'm planning to do belts, idlers and tensioner on mine soon as a preventative maintenance job, and wondering if the crank pulley should be considered as part of that job on a petrol.
Yes, I think it’s more of a diesel issue. pmorg4 said:
Thanks. In that case I'll probably stick with just the belt, tensioner and pulleys. Always trying to find a balance between reasonable preventative maintenance and replacing just about every moving part on the car.
That was my plan! In hindsight I’d recommend 35d owners replace the pulley at 100k.From reading other forums. It seems the pulley fails with alarming regularity at 100k.
If you are close to 100k and are doing the belts then it’s a no brainier to do the crank pulley as well. They aren’t that expensive and you are there anyway.
I get the reference to scope creep but in this instance I think it’s justified.
If you are close to 100k and are doing the belts then it’s a no brainier to do the crank pulley as well. They aren’t that expensive and you are there anyway.
I get the reference to scope creep but in this instance I think it’s justified.
sam.rog said:
From reading other forums. It seems the pulley fails with alarming regularity at 100k.
If you are close to 100k and are doing the belts then it’s a no brainier to do the crank pulley as well. They aren’t that expensive and you are there anyway.
I get the reference to scope creep but in this instance I think it’s justified.
Certainly is. I know some US owners on forums are very keen on preventive early replacement but I agree this pulley is definitely worth pre-emptive replacement. There’s not much left to change on my car now, Trigger’s broom comes to mind! If you are close to 100k and are doing the belts then it’s a no brainier to do the crank pulley as well. They aren’t that expensive and you are there anyway.
I get the reference to scope creep but in this instance I think it’s justified.
wol said:
It's quite a common thing and usually the first anyone knows about it is a burning rubber smell, followed by a thump as the pulley makes a break for freedom, then the power steering going heavy.
Just make sure you replace it with a BMW or Corteco branded one.
I’ve gone for a Febi as I’ve found their products to be okay.Just make sure you replace it with a BMW or Corteco branded one.
New pulley fitted. BMW have updated the design. I ended up with a Corteco pulley as the Febi one took too long to arrive. (Anyone want a Febi pulley before I start the joyous Autodoc return!)
I think the most fiddly part of the job was fitting the ac stretch belt. I used stretch belt tools which made it easier. I did the 120 degree angle tightening in 2 stages, 90 then 30. There was no way I was getting 120 degrees in one go.
I went for a gen BMW main drive belt as the old one had lasted so well. Gates for the ac belt. I put my US paranoid hat on now and ordered a gen BMW main thermostat and water pump. I’ve gone for genuine as I’ve seen too many premature failures with non gen pumps. I’ve already changed the egr thermostat with a nearly new one from my E46 spares collection. I don’t like my car breaking down!
Here’s to the next 119k miles.
I think the most fiddly part of the job was fitting the ac stretch belt. I used stretch belt tools which made it easier. I did the 120 degree angle tightening in 2 stages, 90 then 30. There was no way I was getting 120 degrees in one go.
I went for a gen BMW main drive belt as the old one had lasted so well. Gates for the ac belt. I put my US paranoid hat on now and ordered a gen BMW main thermostat and water pump. I’ve gone for genuine as I’ve seen too many premature failures with non gen pumps. I’ve already changed the egr thermostat with a nearly new one from my E46 spares collection. I don’t like my car breaking down!
Here’s to the next 119k miles.
XHP is back on. I have a map pack with all three stages. I tried all three. One and two consistantly change up too soon. Stage Three is great. The latest update is a big improvement. It doesn’t feel like it’s making the gearbox do things it doesn’t want to. Smoother, faster changes.
Found these two earth strips broken (on tailgate hinges) when I cleaned it. Everything still works. I’m not convinced they are needed as anything can earth through the tailgate hinges.
Apart from that the car continues to be a pleasure to drive. I worked on an F82 M4 at the weekend. It was quite loud. I prefer the M3. Maybe I’m getting old!
Found these two earth strips broken (on tailgate hinges) when I cleaned it. Everything still works. I’m not convinced they are needed as anything can earth through the tailgate hinges.
Apart from that the car continues to be a pleasure to drive. I worked on an F82 M4 at the weekend. It was quite loud. I prefer the M3. Maybe I’m getting old!
Oh dear. I had a sad power loss on the back from work. Max speed uphill 60 mph:
I better go to my local BMW dealer……
They do have an M2 Competition for sale.
Sadly the wallet doesn’t agree with this solution. Fault codes suggest a boost leak or blocked dpf. A boost leak is quite unlikely as I’ve replaced nearly every hose already. It may be time for a very long forced regen drive.
Put the 18s back on for autumn too. It could be worse. I could have a Jaguar.
I better go to my local BMW dealer……
They do have an M2 Competition for sale.
Sadly the wallet doesn’t agree with this solution. Fault codes suggest a boost leak or blocked dpf. A boost leak is quite unlikely as I’ve replaced nearly every hose already. It may be time for a very long forced regen drive.
Put the 18s back on for autumn too. It could be worse. I could have a Jaguar.
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