Jade green Mk2 Golf GTI 16v - project
Discussion
Nice fabrication work 
I've recently acquired a 16v big bumper with an ABF engine and KR fuelling. I'm working on it as well but plan to take it to Stealth eventually once I am up and running. Very knowledgeable and reasonable prices on KJet and VR6 work.
One observation about the ABF block is exhaust manifold choice. The ABF block is 16mm taller than the 9A and the original KR. You probably don't have the original KR exhaust manifold, and if you do it may well be cracked as they all seem to crack, so are probably looking aftermarket.
Generally the KR 4 branch exhaust manifolds hit the bulkhead when mated to the ABF.
TSR make one for the ABF in the mk2 however it's £420. Or you could find a KR exhaust manifold which will clear the bulkhead when mated to an ABF.
I've recently seen someone made their own used a mk3 LHD half exhaust manifold then made a custom section to mate to the rest of the exhaust. This is probably the best option for both sound and performance - 4 branches can be very raspy on a 16v.
Of course with the 9A you'll not have all of the hassle but I believe the ABF engine is superior in design to the 9A.
I've recently acquired a 16v big bumper with an ABF engine and KR fuelling. I'm working on it as well but plan to take it to Stealth eventually once I am up and running. Very knowledgeable and reasonable prices on KJet and VR6 work.
One observation about the ABF block is exhaust manifold choice. The ABF block is 16mm taller than the 9A and the original KR. You probably don't have the original KR exhaust manifold, and if you do it may well be cracked as they all seem to crack, so are probably looking aftermarket.
Generally the KR 4 branch exhaust manifolds hit the bulkhead when mated to the ABF.
TSR make one for the ABF in the mk2 however it's £420. Or you could find a KR exhaust manifold which will clear the bulkhead when mated to an ABF.
I've recently seen someone made their own used a mk3 LHD half exhaust manifold then made a custom section to mate to the rest of the exhaust. This is probably the best option for both sound and performance - 4 branches can be very raspy on a 16v.
Of course with the 9A you'll not have all of the hassle but I believe the ABF engine is superior in design to the 9A.
_Mja_ said:
Nice fabrication work
I've recently acquired a 16v big bumper with an ABF engine and KR fuelling. I'm working on it as well but plan to take it to Stealth eventually once I am up and running. Very knowledgeable and reasonable prices on KJet and VR6 work.
One observation about the ABF block is exhaust manifold choice. The ABF block is 16mm taller than the 9A and the original KR. You probably don't have the original KR exhaust manifold, and if you do it may well be cracked as they all seem to crack, so are probably looking aftermarket.
Generally the KR 4 branch exhaust manifolds hit the bulkhead when mated to the ABF.
TSR make one for the ABF in the mk2 however it's £420. Or you could find a KR exhaust manifold which will clear the bulkhead when mated to an ABF.
I've recently seen someone made their own used a mk3 LHD half exhaust manifold then made a custom section to mate to the rest of the exhaust. This is probably the best option for both sound and performance - 4 branches can be very raspy on a 16v.
Of course with the 9A you'll not have all of the hassle but I believe the ABF engine is superior in design to the 9A.
I've just checked out that TSR manifold, it looks like a pretty neat solution. I've bookmarked that for the future, I feel like engine fitting is a way off yet.I've recently acquired a 16v big bumper with an ABF engine and KR fuelling. I'm working on it as well but plan to take it to Stealth eventually once I am up and running. Very knowledgeable and reasonable prices on KJet and VR6 work.
One observation about the ABF block is exhaust manifold choice. The ABF block is 16mm taller than the 9A and the original KR. You probably don't have the original KR exhaust manifold, and if you do it may well be cracked as they all seem to crack, so are probably looking aftermarket.
Generally the KR 4 branch exhaust manifolds hit the bulkhead when mated to the ABF.
TSR make one for the ABF in the mk2 however it's £420. Or you could find a KR exhaust manifold which will clear the bulkhead when mated to an ABF.
I've recently seen someone made their own used a mk3 LHD half exhaust manifold then made a custom section to mate to the rest of the exhaust. This is probably the best option for both sound and performance - 4 branches can be very raspy on a 16v.
Of course with the 9A you'll not have all of the hassle but I believe the ABF engine is superior in design to the 9A.
I had a tin of LN6V Jade Green paint mixed up a month or so ago and it’s nowhere near the shade of my car. It’s a nice colour, but not the colour of my car. Anyhoo, I figure it’s fine for throwing on new panels to make them look nice before the whole car gets painted in the future.
I’ll give that a brush of seam sealer tomorrow and then paint over it.
I’ll give that a brush of seam sealer tomorrow and then paint over it.
_Mja_ said:
Of course with the 9A you'll not have all of the hassle but I believe the ABF engine is superior in design to the 9A.
Interesting- what’s the difference in design that makes the ABF block superior?I had a recently installed brand new 9A block in my 16v back in the day- thus no installation issues. ABF certainly had no differences in terms of power potential
chrismc1977 said:
Interesting- what’s the difference in design that makes the ABF block superior?
I had a recently installed brand new 9A block in my 16v back in the day- thus no installation issues. ABF certainly had no differences in terms of power potential
The way I understand it was that the 9a was introduced to meet emission requirements whereas the ABF bore/stroke was optimised for a high reving application. The ABF has better head flow and valve hear over the 9a stock. You can change the cams on the 9a to get it revving a bit more but it still doesn't have the bore/stroke of the ABF and although can be tuned with good results the ABF is starting from a slightly higher basepoint. I had a recently installed brand new 9A block in my 16v back in the day- thus no installation issues. ABF certainly had no differences in terms of power potential
I have a 9a 2.0 16v in a Corrado, ABF in a mk3 and an ABF on KR fuelling in a mk2. The Corrado is the laziest engine in stock tune but I am pretty sure that is down to the stock cams. It also only recs to 6.2k where as the others are 7k
Edited by _Mja_ on Tuesday 9th November 19:02
_Mja_ said:
The way I understand it was that the 9a was introduced to meet emission requirements whereas the ABF bore/stroke was optimised for a high reving application. The ABF has better head flow and valve hear over the 9a stock. You can change the cams on the 9a to get it revving a bit more but it still doesn't have the bore/stroke of the ABF and although can be tuned with good results the ABF is starting from a slightly higher basepoint.
I have a 9a 2.0 16v in a Corrado, ABF in a mk3 and an ABF on KR fuelling in a mk2. The Corrado is the laziest engine in stock tune but I am pretty sure that is down to the stock cams. It also only recs to 6.2k where as the others are 7k
The 9A/ABF/KR heads are all essentially the same casting with ‘minor’ variations so have much the same breathing ‘capacity’ as stock. Same valve sizes, valve area etc etcI have a 9a 2.0 16v in a Corrado, ABF in a mk3 and an ABF on KR fuelling in a mk2. The Corrado is the laziest engine in stock tune but I am pretty sure that is down to the stock cams. It also only recs to 6.2k where as the others are 7k
Edited by _Mja_ on Tuesday 9th November 19:02
The cams are indeed more mild in the 9A & it runs KE-jet fuelling- hence why it’s output is actually less than a KR 1800 & why it won’t rev as strongly. As such a KR head (with cams) onto a 9A block was always a popular mod in a Mk2.
Your Corrado also the heaviest of your cars so benefits from a lazier torquier delivery.
Bore/stroke are actually identical between 9A & ABF giving the same capacity (~1984cc) . The ABF block is 16mm taller though & has longer rods. This apparently gives a favourable rod ratio for less vibration.
I ran a 9A to 7800rpm for a number of years without issue in a throttle bodied mk2 Golf with Schrick cams. The limiting factor for the rpm being the hydraulic lifters not being able to tolerate much more without valve float occurring.
As such I’d say the power potential between a 9A & ABF is actually identical as both have the same swept capacity & compression ratios. The ABF only makes more as standard thanks mainly to the cams & fuelling to suit.
The 9A block was generally favourable into a Mk2 (& definitely the mk1) as the block height was the same as a KR & you could use a (designed for KR) 4-branch without fouling the bulkhead. It was also easy to tweak the fuelling to suit on K-Jetronic.
With a 9A/ABF block & KR/ABF cams you are looking at 160ish HP when setup well on K-jetronic
Edited by chrismc1977 on Wednesday 10th November 10:18
gary71 said:
Is it worth bolting up the subframe or slam panel to make sure the longits are the right distance apart before welding it up?
Just out of shot to the right is the slam panel. That’s exactly what I’ve been doing. But also, metal bends. The tolerances in the factory metal I’ve seen so far makes me think these cars aren’t built to McLaren levels of accuracy. The bolt holes are about right so far.Retro_Jim said:
I've just been catching up, I love the early Mk2 over the big bumpers - it's the only car I ever regret selling!
You're doing excellent work with the repairs and it'll be great seeing the mk2 going back on the road!
Thanks Jim. Taking my time and learning as I go. Hopefully this means I get it right first time and won’t need to undo any of my work.You're doing excellent work with the repairs and it'll be great seeing the mk2 going back on the road!
Remember when car radios used to be wired in like this? It’s fair to assume this car has had its fair share of amateur ICE installs! So far I’ve removed an amp wiring kit, RCA leads and a CD changer control cable. The 18 year old in me wants to wire them back in properly and hear all the interior trim panels buzz and rattle!
[quote=SHutchinson]Remember when car radios used to be wired in like this? It’s fair to assume this car has had its fair share of amateur ICE installs! So far I’ve removed an amp wiring kit, RCA leads and a CD changer control cable. The 18 year old in me wants to wire them back in properly and hear all the interior trim panels buzz and rattle!
Do it!! I miss those days and still have a load of my old amps in the loft awaiting a suitable car.
Do it!! I miss those days and still have a load of my old amps in the loft awaiting a suitable car.
missing the VR6 said:
Do it!! I miss those days and still have a load of my old amps in the loft awaiting a suitable car.
As a bare minimum I'll upgrade the factory fit speakers and the wiring. Might run a small amp plus something to make a bit of extra bass but I barely listen to music when I drive as it it. I'm definitely fitting a retro 90's headunit though.SHutchinson said:
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
That looks smart! Can't wait for the stage when I can stand back and admire this one when it's been freshly polished, my 4yr old son will probably be driving it by then!! 
I had mine brand new. I thought I was the mutt's nuts!I like it so much it features on one of my birthday cards.
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