Abandoned Range Rover P38... Resurrection or Bust
Discussion
Whitefly Swatter said:
LordLoveLength said:
First things first - is the fuse at the rear of the radio ok?
Does it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
TT will have some casettes from the 80's I am sure lolDoes it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
LordLoveLength said:
Sounds as if an internal supply has failed or the processor is failing to start.
Have a look for dry solder joints. Done that, none apparent
Are any of the buttons stuck? No
I reckon, from the symptoms, its the display that's Fubar and if I could see to put the code in, it would work. But what do I know? :shrug:Have a look for dry solder joints. Done that, none apparent
Are any of the buttons stuck? No
Whitefly Swatter said:
Tyre Tread said:
Whitefly Swatter said:
LordLoveLength said:
First things first - is the fuse at the rear of the radio ok?
Does it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
TT will have some casettes from the 80's I am sure lolDoes it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
Bit of an in joke. Whitefly Swatter is a friend (well sort of
) of mine for 30+ years and he bought, at my suggestion, a Dahatsu Charade GTti back in 1990 which he ran for about 12 years and then parked up intending to do something with it. I dragged it out of his garage (quite literally) some five years later and returned it to the road. There's a thread here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing//topic.asp?h=0...Sadly the pictures are no longer showing (Thanks Photobucket!)
I was having a tidy up and was about to throw the "Clock Spring" in the boot of the Rangie out of the way when I got curious. Why did it fail and is it fixable?
Over to the garage I went and drilled out the plastic "melt overs" that held the front and back together and then gently prised it apart.
So basically it's just a coiled up ribbon cable connected at one end to the inner of the unit and the other end to the outer. Simple but quite clever.
So why did it fail?
Seems like the ends of the cable get a hard time and delaminate and crack over time and use.
Over to the garage I went and drilled out the plastic "melt overs" that held the front and back together and then gently prised it apart.
So basically it's just a coiled up ribbon cable connected at one end to the inner of the unit and the other end to the outer. Simple but quite clever.
So why did it fail?
Seems like the ends of the cable get a hard time and delaminate and crack over time and use.
I really appreciate the offer Lancer but for a number of reasons I'd like to keep the original if i can:
1. I understand that the Land Rover unit is a non standard size and needs fillet plates if you use an aftermarket head unit
2. Some people have reported suffering noise issues if using other than original unit
3. I'd like to keep the wiring original if poss.
4. I quite like having a tape deck and boot mounted CD player
I'm still waiting for the replacement "clock spring" to arrive so today all I managed to do was to give the rear seats a basic clean and massaged in some Leatherique Oil to the seats and door handles.
1. I understand that the Land Rover unit is a non standard size and needs fillet plates if you use an aftermarket head unit
2. Some people have reported suffering noise issues if using other than original unit
3. I'd like to keep the wiring original if poss.
4. I quite like having a tape deck and boot mounted CD player
I'm still waiting for the replacement "clock spring" to arrive so today all I managed to do was to give the rear seats a basic clean and massaged in some Leatherique Oil to the seats and door handles.
doesthiswork said:
How is the radio LCD module connected to the PCB? Is it a flexi-circuit or zebra strips (elastomeric connectors) or something else? Could be worth removing the module from the board and checking for corrosion on the PCB pads that the flexi or zebras sit on?
I have removed the front. The front panel is connected with two sets of pins that ;locate into sockets on the main board as you bring them together. All looks in order.
doesthiswork said:
Tyre Tread said:
A picture [paints a thousand words... or so they say. Here's 2 thousand that might help to explain better:
OK, so your LCD is sitting inside that black bezelled housing in the last image. I'd guess it's connected to the (white) PCB which also holds all the buttons and LEDs and it's that connection which may be corroded (the brown staining on the bottom edge of that bezel implies a bit of damp may have got in). If you can get that bezel housing off you could see how the LCD glass is connected to the board, but slightly worryingly it looks like the housing is soldered to the board (in three places along its top edge, just underneath the cassette slot). There are probably another three tabs along the bottom edge of the bezel as well, and to get access to those you might need to take the PCB forward off the metal frame (it looks like the board is held on to the frame by four tabs, circled on the PCB).
Those two brown pin header connectors in the second image connect everything on the front panel to the main housing - display, controls, illumination and are clearly working as you've said the illumination works when the side lights are on.
Edited by doesthiswork on Wednesday 4th May 16:04
Sorry if that sounds rude or dismissive but I know I can dismantle this by desoldering the tabs etc but I really don;t want to do it just on a fishing trip.
doesthiswork said:
No, it's not dismissive, don't worry, it's just that I don't know your skill level/knowledge either so when I was talking about the LCD while you were talking about the whole front panel I thought best to try to be unambiguous after that.
LCDs which use zebra strips are a pain in the arse and a common failure point on all sorts of things. I've had them cause missing lines in the display of a Fiat Punto, to a completely blank display on a rowing machine monitor, both fixed just by cleaning the pads.
My first post was just a suggestion it might be worth checking if the LCD actually has this type of connector, and then cleaning the pads if everything else appears to be working. Now that I've seen the metal bezel around the LCD I'd be surprised if it didn't use zebra strips, but obviously up to you if you want to dive any deeper or not.
LCDs which use zebra strips are a pain in the arse and a common failure point on all sorts of things. I've had them cause missing lines in the display of a Fiat Punto, to a completely blank display on a rowing machine monitor, both fixed just by cleaning the pads.
My first post was just a suggestion it might be worth checking if the LCD actually has this type of connector, and then cleaning the pads if everything else appears to be working. Now that I've seen the metal bezel around the LCD I'd be surprised if it didn't use zebra strips, but obviously up to you if you want to dive any deeper or not.
I'm not sure which route to go down yet so I'll park it for now until I get an MOT on it,
Hopefully the Clock Spring will arrive tomorrow and I can reassemble and see if I can get the horn and SRS light issues sorted.
At the moment I just keep massaging more Leatherique Rejuvinating Oil into the leather.
300bhp/ton said:
If you get the head unit working you can retro fit a Bluetooth unit in place of the CD changer. Allows you to stream music from your phone and take calls.
Can send you a link on how to do this.
As for the water leak, could be the screen. But it is possible it is leaking from the plastic strip on the roof. It is know that some sealer shrinks and reveals a hole that lets water in. Can probably send you a link on this too.
This car is fir SWBO and she a Technophobe so no bluetooth required I'm afraid, but thanks for the offer.Can send you a link on how to do this.
As for the water leak, could be the screen. But it is possible it is leaking from the plastic strip on the roof. It is know that some sealer shrinks and reveals a hole that lets water in. Can probably send you a link on this too.
The water leak does seem to be the screen BUT I will check as you suggest before I condemn the screen seal. All links muchly appreciated.
300bhp/ton said:
That's interesting.I'll take a look later. Thank you.Have also passed onto Martin who has a similar issue on his.
Byker28i said:
Tyre Tread said:
I was having a tidy up and was about to throw the "Clock Spring" in the boot of the Rangie out of the way when I got curious. Why did it fail and is it fixable?
Over to the garage I went and drilled out the plastic "melt overs" that held the front and back together and then gently prised it apart.
So basically it's just a coiled up ribbon cable connected at one end to the inner of the unit and the other end to the outer. Simple but quite clever.
So why did it fail?
Seems like the ends of the cable get a hard time and delaminate and crack over time and use.
Loving the write up.Over to the garage I went and drilled out the plastic "melt overs" that held the front and back together and then gently prised it apart.
So basically it's just a coiled up ribbon cable connected at one end to the inner of the unit and the other end to the outer. Simple but quite clever.
So why did it fail?
Seems like the ends of the cable get a hard time and delaminate and crack over time and use.
TVR Cerbera has similar in the middle of the wheel for the steering wheel buttons and often cracks at the end.
On that I've cut the broken 10mm off and sanded the ribbon cable to reveal the tracks, then soldered the plug back on for a permenant fix. Can you do that here?
Looking on ebay it seems many cars use a version of the same thing.
I did think about trying to repair it but the replacement is due here today for £17.50 so I'll keep that option in reserve as I expect that if they are prone to this, the new one may suffer the same fate in the not too distant future
Frustrated that the "clock spring" didn't arrive 
However, despite (once again) being a day when I wasn't going to touch Nelson unless the clock spring arrived, it was such a lovely day I needed to be outside.
Now then, what could I do outside that would keep me busy
Finish the leather cleaning process on Nelson!
The Conditioning oil had gone sticky as it's supposed to and I began to work in the Pristine Clean and then wipe it off.
WOW! what a difference . The leather went from a greeny brown to cream and it looks and smells much better in there.
In this photo you can just about see the colour of the seats prior to cleaning on the far side of the car.
And a close up showing before and after.
The door cards when it arrived were filthy and covered in mould
The rear seats really did clean up well and the leather is now much more supple
While cleaning the rears we needed to drop the seats. They are 60/40 split and the backs are released by a button at each side of the rear parcel shelf. The button to release the smaller side had disappeared behind the turret panel in the boot and the larger section back would fold down but the base wouldn't lift.
In order to relocate the button for the smaller side I had to remove the side parcel shelf, remove the woofer unit and CD changer. Awkward! But accomplished.
Then we (joined by a friend- the inexhaustible Trev) had to try and lift the larger section of the seat. Had to lubricate the mechanism and use a screwdriver to (blindly) release the centre latch as it turned out the connection that should have released the centre latch is broken.
It became apparent that the rear seats had not been lifted (probably due to the broken catch) for a VERY long time:
That stank!
And was swiftly cleaned up.
But with the back seats down it is evident there is a very usable space back there.
We ran out of time to put it back together and to investigate the potential solution to the water leak as suggested by 300bhp/ton.
Maybe tomorrow...
However, despite (once again) being a day when I wasn't going to touch Nelson unless the clock spring arrived, it was such a lovely day I needed to be outside.
Now then, what could I do outside that would keep me busy
Finish the leather cleaning process on Nelson!The Conditioning oil had gone sticky as it's supposed to and I began to work in the Pristine Clean and then wipe it off.
WOW! what a difference . The leather went from a greeny brown to cream and it looks and smells much better in there.
In this photo you can just about see the colour of the seats prior to cleaning on the far side of the car.
And a close up showing before and after.
The door cards when it arrived were filthy and covered in mould
The rear seats really did clean up well and the leather is now much more supple
While cleaning the rears we needed to drop the seats. They are 60/40 split and the backs are released by a button at each side of the rear parcel shelf. The button to release the smaller side had disappeared behind the turret panel in the boot and the larger section back would fold down but the base wouldn't lift.
In order to relocate the button for the smaller side I had to remove the side parcel shelf, remove the woofer unit and CD changer. Awkward! But accomplished.
Then we (joined by a friend- the inexhaustible Trev) had to try and lift the larger section of the seat. Had to lubricate the mechanism and use a screwdriver to (blindly) release the centre latch as it turned out the connection that should have released the centre latch is broken.
It became apparent that the rear seats had not been lifted (probably due to the broken catch) for a VERY long time:
That stank!
And was swiftly cleaned up. But with the back seats down it is evident there is a very usable space back there.
We ran out of time to put it back together and to investigate the potential solution to the water leak as suggested by 300bhp/ton.
Maybe tomorrow...
Edited by Tyre Tread on Thursday 5th May 22:55
Today started with me pulling the roof rail off the driver's side to see if the little hole was open and causing the leak.
There was lots of crud under the roof rail but no 'ole.
I had to look up how to remove the top screen trim (push plastic clips under the trim towards the nearside) and removed the top trim. It was then evident that the screen is sealed on a bed of sealant. I grabbed a jug of water and a syringe and large bore needle (for refilling ink cartridges) and gently dribbled water onto the area where the leak appeared to be and sure enough it emerged the other side. Further investigation showed that the corner of the screen moved ever so slightly when gentle lever pressure was put under it and the water that was sitting above it disappeared. and arrived inside. So it's a simple case of mastic required BUT it has been drizzling on and off all day so too wet to fix it today.
While I was messing with the roof and screen, postie arrived so attention quickly turned to fitting the s/h "Clock Spring". Steering wheel off, cables routed, plugs connected (other then the airbag while testing), steering wheel back on and press the horn contacts... Toot toot!
Turned the ignition on and the SRS light came on and went off as it should
Battery was then disconnected and left for half and hour while I had lunch and then the airbag connected and battery reconnected.
I cleaned up a few more bits of trim and refitted them (driver's kick panel, rear parcel shelf side support etc and then had a tidy up and moved all the tools and clothes etc to the boot.
Time for a spin down the road. The only light left on the dash was the ABS light which, as was predicted, just went off after driving forward a few feet.
So now, as far as I can tell, it just needs new wiper blades so I booked and MOT for next week.
The test centre was recommended by Martin as the guy who does the tests runs a P38 and loves them so will know all of their foibles
On the list of things to do:
Buy and fit wiper blades
Put some fresh petrol in (and take for a drive to clear off brakes and hopefully clear it's throat for emissions test) on way to test station
Get MOT
Fill gas tank
Fix leak in windscreen
Refit sub woofer and CD changer (although one of the cones is FUBAR)
Replace tyres
Recalibrate gear selector sensor so it shows "P" when it's in park
Full service
Change all fluids
Calibrate all windows and sunroof to stop it bonging all the time
Sort radio
...and many more that I've probably forgotten.
Oh and sort some insurance for it to get to the test centre.
ETA: and some decent keys. Having to use the EKA could become a pain.
There was lots of crud under the roof rail but no 'ole.
I had to look up how to remove the top screen trim (push plastic clips under the trim towards the nearside) and removed the top trim. It was then evident that the screen is sealed on a bed of sealant. I grabbed a jug of water and a syringe and large bore needle (for refilling ink cartridges) and gently dribbled water onto the area where the leak appeared to be and sure enough it emerged the other side. Further investigation showed that the corner of the screen moved ever so slightly when gentle lever pressure was put under it and the water that was sitting above it disappeared. and arrived inside. So it's a simple case of mastic required BUT it has been drizzling on and off all day so too wet to fix it today.
While I was messing with the roof and screen, postie arrived so attention quickly turned to fitting the s/h "Clock Spring". Steering wheel off, cables routed, plugs connected (other then the airbag while testing), steering wheel back on and press the horn contacts... Toot toot!
Turned the ignition on and the SRS light came on and went off as it should
Battery was then disconnected and left for half and hour while I had lunch and then the airbag connected and battery reconnected.
I cleaned up a few more bits of trim and refitted them (driver's kick panel, rear parcel shelf side support etc and then had a tidy up and moved all the tools and clothes etc to the boot.
Time for a spin down the road. The only light left on the dash was the ABS light which, as was predicted, just went off after driving forward a few feet.
So now, as far as I can tell, it just needs new wiper blades so I booked and MOT for next week.
The test centre was recommended by Martin as the guy who does the tests runs a P38 and loves them so will know all of their foibles
On the list of things to do:
Buy and fit wiper blades
Put some fresh petrol in (and take for a drive to clear off brakes and hopefully clear it's throat for emissions test) on way to test station
Get MOT
Fill gas tank
Fix leak in windscreen
Refit sub woofer and CD changer (although one of the cones is FUBAR)
Replace tyres
Recalibrate gear selector sensor so it shows "P" when it's in park
Full service
Change all fluids
Calibrate all windows and sunroof to stop it bonging all the time
Sort radio
...and many more that I've probably forgotten.
Oh and sort some insurance for it to get to the test centre.
ETA: and some decent keys. Having to use the EKA could become a pain.
Edited by Tyre Tread on Friday 6th May 20:06
Thanks Mike.
As long as it keeps rewarding me I'll keep on going.
It does have it's moments...
This afternoon the rear wiper switch was knocked while messing around with the Clock Spring and it had been working OK but suddenly stopped in the middle of the rear screen and wouldn't move by switching it on and off so i just left it as another job to be done after MoT.
Later when I reconnected the battery after messing with the airbag the wiper just parked itself and has worked OK since. Just weird!
As long as it keeps rewarding me I'll keep on going.
It does have it's moments...
This afternoon the rear wiper switch was knocked while messing around with the Clock Spring and it had been working OK but suddenly stopped in the middle of the rear screen and wouldn't move by switching it on and off so i just left it as another job to be done after MoT.
Later when I reconnected the battery after messing with the airbag the wiper just parked itself and has worked OK since. Just weird!
recordman said:
Very entertaining, thank you very much.
You might be interested in Sam's project over on YT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNJGYTy2oMc&t=...
Thank you.You might be interested in Sam's project over on YT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNJGYTy2oMc&t=...
I actually watched that video a week or so ago and now subscribed a s I forgot to last time.
hi court said:
Just read the whole thread, awesome job.
Awesome dog too.
As a p38 anorak for the last 20 years I've never seen one that colour, good find.
Fingers crossed on the MOT.
Thanks hi court. On the car and the dog.Awesome dog too.
As a p38 anorak for the last 20 years I've never seen one that colour, good find.
Fingers crossed on the MOT.
I was told that P38's in this colour (Vienna Green according to the colour code) are rare. Seem to be a lot of Discos in that colour.
Today I only managed to acquire and fit new wiper blades ready for the MoT.
I did however bring back to life a Marcos that had been laying dormant for 30 years. Quite proud of that and feeling a bit elated that we managed to get it from dormant to running in one day. It'll take a lot of love to get it back on the road but the owner has had it since he was in his late teens and his wife of 30 years has never been in it as it's never been on the road during that time.
Edited by Tyre Tread on Saturday 7th May 21:31
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