Abandoned Range Rover P38... Resurrection or Bust
Discussion
RDMcG said:
You have great skill!....this kind of thread is the best thing on PH for me. Wishing you the great success
Thank you for your good wishes and compliment. If I had "great skill" I wouldn't be doing this, I'd be working and earning some money
Edited by Tyre Tread on Sunday 1st May 23:50
On a day when I thought I wouldn't touch the Rangie I got a bit sucked in.
I wandered outside and thought the old Lexus IS250 needed a wash. It's a lovely car and was clocking 25K a year for the first couple of years I had it but down to just a couple of thousand the last 2 and it may yet be sold if SWMBO decides she doesn't want to drive the Rangie and I decide to keep it for myself.
I gave her old Jazz a wash (Ooer matron!) too and then attention turned to Nelson.
Initially I cleaned up some of the bits from the centre console that I'd removed yesterday and decided that rather then leave them hanging about to get damaged I really should put them back so I hopped in and did a bit more cleaning under in the underparts of the centre console (grim). Then I remembered that the power socket (or fag lighter to those of my generation) hadn't been working and it was still attached to the parts I was about to reinstall. A quick shufty inside the socket showed it was quite rusty in there (unsurprising with the amount of MucCoffee that seemed to have been spilled into the centre console area). I decided against trying to remove the socket from the plastic surround in case the brittle plastic broke so I retired to the garage and got a small wire brush out on the Dremel and cleaned up the inside of the socket until it was nice and shiny again.
|https://thumbsnap.com/XcYkyot2[/url]
I checked the supply and earth to the fag lighter with the meter and, once reinstalled, I tested the power socket and Bingo! it works.
Whilst sorting the centre console bits I missed having a bit of music and wondered how difficult it would be to get the radio working again. A friend who had joined me tried turning on the radio and although I'd thought it wasn't coming on he notice a feint hiss from the speakers. So, it had life but was probably locked out after having a duff battery and needed the code entering. But there was no display. We tried entering the code without the aid of a display but it clearly wasn't going to work so, after a bit of googling, armed with a pair of thick cable ties we set about removing the radio.
When we thought we had disengaged the locking pins I gave the radio a good tug (ooer) and out it popped. Only afterwards did I realise we'd pulled the bracket that the radio mounts into with the locking pins out with the radio. The mounting bracket only clips into place! very secure
Once the radio was out I unclipped all of the electrical connections ...
... and began to take the outer covers off the radio
|https://thumbsnap.com/oPX5di5r[/url]
It wasn't long before I believe I found the issue:
I don't think all that gooey stuff is supposed to be there and it looks like the capacitor has leaked.
micro farad Electronics is definitely a weak area for me but i know enough to recognise a capacitor and I can read its a
volt item so looked it up on Ebay and they're about £ 1.50 (plus the usual £3.50 P&P of course). So the question is, do I stake a fiver and an hours work on trying to replace the capacitor and hope that resolves the issue (bearing in mind my rudimentary soldering skills, or do I opt for a secondhand radio cassette off ebay, or even upgrade it to something newer? (there is a 6 CD changer and a huge OEM amp in the boot BTW). I shall ponder this.
Having sat in the driver's seat and seen a few drip coming down from the headlining I had to take a look at SWMBO's discovery of Nelson's attempt to turn himself into a fish tank. After removing the driver's sun visor and the A pillar trim and top of the driver's door seal, poking about above the headlining it initially appeared that the leak might be from the sunroof drain tubs. However, after poking my head out the sunoof it was evident that the tubes were clear and further probing around found that the leak is from the top of the windscreen so, assuming we gain MOT status, the screen will have to come out and be resealed.
I'm supposed to be doing stuff other than the Rangie tomorrow but that's what I said today so we shall see.
Thanks to everyone for the good wishes and kind comments.
I wandered outside and thought the old Lexus IS250 needed a wash. It's a lovely car and was clocking 25K a year for the first couple of years I had it but down to just a couple of thousand the last 2 and it may yet be sold if SWMBO decides she doesn't want to drive the Rangie and I decide to keep it for myself.
I gave her old Jazz a wash (Ooer matron!) too and then attention turned to Nelson.
Initially I cleaned up some of the bits from the centre console that I'd removed yesterday and decided that rather then leave them hanging about to get damaged I really should put them back so I hopped in and did a bit more cleaning under in the underparts of the centre console (grim). Then I remembered that the power socket (or fag lighter to those of my generation) hadn't been working and it was still attached to the parts I was about to reinstall. A quick shufty inside the socket showed it was quite rusty in there (unsurprising with the amount of MucCoffee that seemed to have been spilled into the centre console area). I decided against trying to remove the socket from the plastic surround in case the brittle plastic broke so I retired to the garage and got a small wire brush out on the Dremel and cleaned up the inside of the socket until it was nice and shiny again.
|https://thumbsnap.com/XcYkyot2[/url]I checked the supply and earth to the fag lighter with the meter and, once reinstalled, I tested the power socket and Bingo! it works.
Whilst sorting the centre console bits I missed having a bit of music and wondered how difficult it would be to get the radio working again. A friend who had joined me tried turning on the radio and although I'd thought it wasn't coming on he notice a feint hiss from the speakers. So, it had life but was probably locked out after having a duff battery and needed the code entering. But there was no display. We tried entering the code without the aid of a display but it clearly wasn't going to work so, after a bit of googling, armed with a pair of thick cable ties we set about removing the radio.
When we thought we had disengaged the locking pins I gave the radio a good tug (ooer) and out it popped. Only afterwards did I realise we'd pulled the bracket that the radio mounts into with the locking pins out with the radio. The mounting bracket only clips into place! very secure
Once the radio was out I unclipped all of the electrical connections ...
... and began to take the outer covers off the radio
|https://thumbsnap.com/oPX5di5r[/url]It wasn't long before I believe I found the issue:
I don't think all that gooey stuff is supposed to be there and it looks like the capacitor has leaked.
micro farad Electronics is definitely a weak area for me but i know enough to recognise a capacitor and I can read its a
volt item so looked it up on Ebay and they're about £ 1.50 (plus the usual £3.50 P&P of course). So the question is, do I stake a fiver and an hours work on trying to replace the capacitor and hope that resolves the issue (bearing in mind my rudimentary soldering skills, or do I opt for a secondhand radio cassette off ebay, or even upgrade it to something newer? (there is a 6 CD changer and a huge OEM amp in the boot BTW). I shall ponder this.
Having sat in the driver's seat and seen a few drip coming down from the headlining I had to take a look at SWMBO's discovery of Nelson's attempt to turn himself into a fish tank. After removing the driver's sun visor and the A pillar trim and top of the driver's door seal, poking about above the headlining it initially appeared that the leak might be from the sunroof drain tubs. However, after poking my head out the sunoof it was evident that the tubes were clear and further probing around found that the leak is from the top of the windscreen so, assuming we gain MOT status, the screen will have to come out and be resealed.
I'm supposed to be doing stuff other than the Rangie tomorrow but that's what I said today so we shall see.
Thanks to everyone for the good wishes and kind comments.
Edited by Tyre Tread on Sunday 1st May 23:52
If you want an original P38 stereo that fits the dash properly then they're fairly pricey on Ebay, plus may not come with the code.
You could go aftermarket, and then you'll need the 2 little plastic filler panels to hide the gaps either side of it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234387633602
I would probably have a go at fixing that, given the skills you've got. Not much to lose!
You could go aftermarket, and then you'll need the 2 little plastic filler panels to hide the gaps either side of it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234387633602
I would probably have a go at fixing that, given the skills you've got. Not much to lose!
N Dentressangle said:
If you want an original P38 stereo that fits the dash properly then they're fairly pricey on Ebay, plus may not come with the code.
You could go aftermarket, and then you'll need the 2 little plastic filler panels to hide the gaps either side of it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234387633602
I would probably have a go at fixing that, given the skills you've got. Not much to lose!
Thanks Norbert. Was going to buy a second hand unit but looks like they are between £120 and £250 used and around a grand new!!!!! I could put a modern unit in I suppose.You could go aftermarket, and then you'll need the 2 little plastic filler panels to hide the gaps either side of it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234387633602
I would probably have a go at fixing that, given the skills you've got. Not much to lose!
My soldering skills may need some upgrading to try and fix the original though.
Arnold Cunningham said:
Did you read it though? That goo is not bad capacitor.
No I didn't, but now I have 
Thank you for helping me to avoid wasting my time.
Anyone know a good car radio repair person near Cardiff?
Mind you, the local car group I organise meets on Wednesday so I'll ask the various members there.
Edited by Tyre Tread on Monday 2nd May 11:11
Tyre Tread said:
shalmaneser said:
Is that gooey stuff still gooey? It looks a bit like the anti vibration mastic that gets squirted on automotive PCBs to stop the larger components fatiguing their solder connections...
Good question, so I Googled "what does a bad capacitor look like": 
LordLoveLength said:
First things first - is the fuse at the rear of the radio ok? yes
Does it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok? yes
Is there an aerial? yes
Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that) No idea - see below
If you read my comments earlier I said that we can hear a faint hissing from the speakers which would suggest that the amp is working.Does it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok? yes
Is there an aerial? yes
Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that) No idea - see below
In order to obtain ANY output whatsoever, the code will need to be entered. I have the code and know how to enter it
There is, however, NO DISPLAY so it's nigh on impossible to put the code in.
I don't know, at this point, whether it's just the display or something deeper that's the problem.
I read online something which I had not considered which is that, being an LCD display, if the backlight fails then the readout is invisible. So, I may put it back together again (I pulled it apart again to see if I could access the backlight) and plug it in and see if I can see the display with a strong light shone onto the display (as suggested in the post i read online).
Oh, and I won't need an antique shop for a cassette. I was a DJ in the mid to late 1980's and every record I bought I put onto tape so I have bucket loads of 80's music on tape. 80'stastic!
Tyre Tread said:
If you read my comments earlier I said that we can hear a faint hissing from the speakers which would suggest that the amp is working.
In order to obtain ANY output whatsoever, the code will need to be entered. I have the code and know how to enter it
There is, however, NO DISPLAY so it's nigh on impossible to put the code in.
I don't know, at this point, whether it's just the display or something deeper that's the problem.
I read online something which I had not considered which is that, being an LCD display, if the backlight fails then the readout is invisible. So, I may put it back together again (I pulled it apart again to see if I could access the backlight) and plug it in and see if I can see the display with a strong light shone onto the display (as suggested in the post i read online).
Oh, and I won't need an antique shop for a cassette. I was a DJ in the mid to late 1980's and every record I bought I put onto tape so I have bucket loads of 80's music on tape. 80'stastic!
Could it be the speakers themselves that are faulty? I, errm, somebody else left both front windows fully open on my van for a weekend a few years back during which we had record levels of rain. All those speakers would do would hiss whether the stereo was on or off.... When things had fully dried out they'd still hiss with the occasional crackle but they were toast. In order to obtain ANY output whatsoever, the code will need to be entered. I have the code and know how to enter it
There is, however, NO DISPLAY so it's nigh on impossible to put the code in.
I don't know, at this point, whether it's just the display or something deeper that's the problem.
I read online something which I had not considered which is that, being an LCD display, if the backlight fails then the readout is invisible. So, I may put it back together again (I pulled it apart again to see if I could access the backlight) and plug it in and see if I can see the display with a strong light shone onto the display (as suggested in the post i read online).
Oh, and I won't need an antique shop for a cassette. I was a DJ in the mid to late 1980's and every record I bought I put onto tape so I have bucket loads of 80's music on tape. 80'stastic!
Granted this was on a Transit with only two speakers in the doors, so quite a basic setup compared to the P38!
WarrenB said:
Tyre Tread said:
If you read my comments earlier I said that we can hear a faint hissing from the speakers which would suggest that the amp is working.
In order to obtain ANY output whatsoever, the code will need to be entered. I have the code and know how to enter it
There is, however, NO DISPLAY so it's nigh on impossible to put the code in.
I don't know, at this point, whether it's just the display or something deeper that's the problem.
I read online something which I had not considered which is that, being an LCD display, if the backlight fails then the readout is invisible. So, I may put it back together again (I pulled it apart again to see if I could access the backlight) and plug it in and see if I can see the display with a strong light shone onto the display (as suggested in the post i read online).
Oh, and I won't need an antique shop for a cassette. I was a DJ in the mid to late 1980's and every record I bought I put onto tape so I have bucket loads of 80's music on tape. 80'stastic!
Could it be the speakers themselves that are faulty? I, errm, somebody else left both front windows fully open on my van for a weekend a few years back during which we had record levels of rain. All those speakers would do would hiss whether the stereo was on or off.... When things had fully dried out they'd still hiss with the occasional crackle but they were toast. In order to obtain ANY output whatsoever, the code will need to be entered. I have the code and know how to enter it
There is, however, NO DISPLAY so it's nigh on impossible to put the code in.
I don't know, at this point, whether it's just the display or something deeper that's the problem.
I read online something which I had not considered which is that, being an LCD display, if the backlight fails then the readout is invisible. So, I may put it back together again (I pulled it apart again to see if I could access the backlight) and plug it in and see if I can see the display with a strong light shone onto the display (as suggested in the post i read online).
Oh, and I won't need an antique shop for a cassette. I was a DJ in the mid to late 1980's and every record I bought I put onto tape so I have bucket loads of 80's music on tape. 80'stastic!
Granted this was on a Transit with only two speakers in the doors, so quite a basic setup compared to the P38!
What I have discovered is that shining a light into the display with the power connected and the unit turned on does not show any display letters. HOWEVER, turning the sidelights on does illuminate the radio display
K50 DEL said:
If you do need it professionally repaired then contact Maple Audio in Bath, I've used them for car audio repairs for more than 20 years and always found them very reasonable.
Thanks, I'll bear that in mind.Would quite like to get it to someone local if poss for obvious reasons but could always post it I suppose.
Whitefly Swatter said:
LordLoveLength said:
First things first - is the fuse at the rear of the radio ok?
Does it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
TT will have some casettes from the 80's I am sure lolDoes it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
Tyre Tread said:
Whitefly Swatter said:
LordLoveLength said:
First things first - is the fuse at the rear of the radio ok?
Does it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
TT will have some casettes from the 80's I am sure lolDoes it have12v supplies where it should? Ground(s) ok?
Is there an aerial? Does the cassette work? (may need an antique shop for that)
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