High mileage XC90
Discussion
sugerbear said:
Love my XC90. One year of reliable ownership and it’s had a new battery, two bulbs and a couple of tyres.
Only thing I don’t like is the crashy ride because it has 20 inch rims (intend to swap to 18’s at some stage).
I swapped out the pop up satnav for a roadtop 8.8 car play receiver and it’s just a lovely car to drive.
Your one looks very clean for 170k.
Got any further info on the roadtop 8.8. Does it still give you rear cam? Only thing I don’t like is the crashy ride because it has 20 inch rims (intend to swap to 18’s at some stage).
I swapped out the pop up satnav for a roadtop 8.8 car play receiver and it’s just a lovely car to drive.
Your one looks very clean for 170k.
They are great workhorses and tow cars. My old mans 07 plate xc90 is on 203,000 now.
He is...hard...on cars, to put it mildly. Regular towing, most likely overweight sometimes, quite often off road. never washed. Here it is with me changing the brakes all round last month.
Next time I will insist he takes it to the jet wash first, it was absolutely minging working under there, every time I moved a load of crap fell in my hair.
But it just keeps on taking it!
He is...hard...on cars, to put it mildly. Regular towing, most likely overweight sometimes, quite often off road. never washed. Here it is with me changing the brakes all round last month.
Next time I will insist he takes it to the jet wash first, it was absolutely minging working under there, every time I moved a load of crap fell in my hair.
But it just keeps on taking it!
Edited by chris1roll on Monday 6th March 23:08
guitarcarfanatic said:
You have the side steps which was a pricey extra new!
They could do with a bit of a refurb actually, particularly where they go under the sill. There's some pitting and surface corrosion that doesn't look very nice close up. I'll probably pull them off and give them a spruce up at some point, but once I'm sure I won't make them look any worse 
sugerbear said:
Love my XC90. One year of reliable ownership and it’s had a new battery, two bulbs and a couple of tyres.
Only thing I don’t like is the crashy ride because it has 20 inch rims (intend to swap to 18’s at some stage).
I swapped out the pop up satnav for a roadtop 8.8 car play receiver and it’s just a lovely car to drive.
Your one looks very clean for 170k.
I very much stuck to my own advice on this one and bought on condition rather than mileage or even spec, and I'm glad I did. We looked at quite a few with between 90 and 150k on them and found some that looked OK. Went to see this one and it stood out, both in terms of condition and service history. The owner had had it for 5 years, and was clearly an enthusiast, reeling off the same list of common issues I'd researched, then pointing me at invoices and evidence that they'd all been attended to recently. The service and MOT history are both very good. The only fault I could really find was slightly rough looking rear discs and low pads, otherwise it was all together and drove really well.Only thing I don’t like is the crashy ride because it has 20 inch rims (intend to swap to 18’s at some stage).
I swapped out the pop up satnav for a roadtop 8.8 car play receiver and it’s just a lovely car to drive.
Your one looks very clean for 170k.
I'm 6 months in now, and I've had a fair bit of maintenance type stuff to attend to, but no actual failures other than a split turbo hose which was an easy and cheap fix, and the power steering pump which was intermittently playing up. Otherwise it's been consumables only. Battery, discs and pads all round, handbrake shoes and springs, and a couple of bulbs. I do like the idea of adding some more modern infotainment. The analogue-only radio feels a bit restrictive in 2023, and I haven't owned a CD for over 10 years now. It does have basic Bluetooth integration for calls which works well, but finding (and dialling) numbers is clunky, and I miss proper smartphone integration for things like Waze and Apple Music. I will look into the Roadtop, as losing the inbuilt RTI nav system won't be a hardship when Volvo stopped releasing updates for it in 2016.
chris1roll said:
They are great workhorses and tow cars. My old mans 07 plate xc90 is on 203,000 now.
He is...hard...on cars, to put it mildly. Regular towing, most likely overweight sometimes, quite often off road. never washed. Here it is with me changing the brakes all round last month.
Next time I will insist he takes it to the jet wash first, it was absolutely minging working under there, every time I moved a load of crap fell in my hair.
But it just keeps on taking it!
That one does look like it earns its keep. I bet it still cleans up beautifully though. They are really hard wearing, particularly inside. Paint quality is so much nicer than newer German stuff I've owned, with none of the orange peel effect that BMW in particular seem to serve up. Nicely and logically engineered as well. I find it a joy generally to work on, with everything coming apart and going back together without the fight that I've had on some other cars. My old S60 was the same years ago. Just good, sensible, logical engineering.He is...hard...on cars, to put it mildly. Regular towing, most likely overweight sometimes, quite often off road. never washed. Here it is with me changing the brakes all round last month.
Next time I will insist he takes it to the jet wash first, it was absolutely minging working under there, every time I moved a load of crap fell in my hair.
But it just keeps on taking it!
Edited by Limpet on Wednesday 8th March 16:04
First MOT in my hands today, and a clean pass apart from an advisory for slight wear to the rear bushes on the lower control arms. A very common problem on these 2.2 tonne cars which are very hard on suspension components. Tester said it's very minor, doesn't need immediate attention, and just something to keep an eye on over the coming year.
Otherwise, to quote the tester "She's clean as a whistle". Happy days.
Next job, cam belt and water pump.
Otherwise, to quote the tester "She's clean as a whistle". Happy days.
Next job, cam belt and water pump.
Limpet said:
MOT coming up this week, so decided to attend to the occasionally sticky power steering by treating the car to £62 of eBay's finest Chinesium power steering pump (as opposed to a £300 genuine one), and some fresh fluid. Seems to have done the job, with power assistance losing the rather irritating intermittent quality that it had started to gain when manoeuvring at low speeds. I'm going to take the old one apart and see if there's anything obvious I can repair or replace, given the various omens of doom I've heard re these cheap Chinese pumps often having the lifespan comparable to that of a Bernard Matthews turkey.
For now it all feels good, no leaks and no funny noises, so timely correction of power steering completed, we hooked up the horsebox for our first towing experience. 20 mile round trip to the stables where she keeps her third child, and completed without incident.
An extra 900kg on the back didn't seem to upset the car at all, and it coped admirably with the hilly local lanes.
Neither of us had a clue what we were doing when it came to reversing which gave a local farmer in his tractor (who we know well) a source of much amusement as we shunted back and forth trying and failing to turn the thing around. We got there in the end.
MOT booked for Wednesday. I've adjusted up the parking brake (Mercedes style foot operated apply / dash handle release setup on these) to get the travel down to more acceptable levels, and given it a once over as much as I can without ramps. While I'm not about to say it will sail through with ease, if it throws up anything huge I will be genuinely surprised and disappointed.
Failing power steering pumps have a nasty habit of shedding bits of rubber and plastic which collect in the steering rack and ruin it in short order.For now it all feels good, no leaks and no funny noises, so timely correction of power steering completed, we hooked up the horsebox for our first towing experience. 20 mile round trip to the stables where she keeps her third child, and completed without incident.
An extra 900kg on the back didn't seem to upset the car at all, and it coped admirably with the hilly local lanes.
Neither of us had a clue what we were doing when it came to reversing which gave a local farmer in his tractor (who we know well) a source of much amusement as we shunted back and forth trying and failing to turn the thing around. We got there in the end.
MOT booked for Wednesday. I've adjusted up the parking brake (Mercedes style foot operated apply / dash handle release setup on these) to get the travel down to more acceptable levels, and given it a once over as much as I can without ramps. While I'm not about to say it will sail through with ease, if it throws up anything huge I will be genuinely surprised and disappointed.
Edited by Limpet on Monday 6th March 16:02
Replacing the steering rack is mucho mucho expensive, so as you know the pump was starting to break up, I would suggest you flush the steering rack out. Pretty easy to do and easy to get the pipes on and off. Couple of litres back flushing should clean it sufficiently to give you price of mind.
Nicks90 said:
Failing power steering pumps have a nasty habit of shedding bits of rubber and plastic which collect in the steering rack and ruin it in short order.
Replacing the steering rack is mucho mucho expensive, so as you know the pump was starting to break up, I would suggest you flush the steering rack out. Pretty easy to do and easy to get the pipes on and off. Couple of litres back flushing should clean it sufficiently to give you price of mind.
Cheers for the heads up. I've got some fluid left over, so will look into this Replacing the steering rack is mucho mucho expensive, so as you know the pump was starting to break up, I would suggest you flush the steering rack out. Pretty easy to do and easy to get the pipes on and off. Couple of litres back flushing should clean it sufficiently to give you price of mind.
The car asking for a service, the overdue cambelt (on time, not miles) and the auxiliary belt chirp on cold start that was getting worse prompted me into action last weekend. After shopping around, the various Volvo dealer "trade shops" on eBay came up trumps with prices that really don't make it worth chancing aftermarket.
DHL man had a hernia delivering this little lot. Timing belt and water pump kit, auxiliary belt and tensioner kit, 4 litres of coolant, 6 litres of the D5's preferred A5/B5 brew oil and an oil filter. All genuine Volvo stuff, £423 delivered.
So I set to work. Every job has a notoriously awkward bit, and when doing a D5 cambelt, it's widely accepted to be the big 30mm nut on the crank pulley, which is a torqued up to a whopping 300 Nm, located on a component that freely rotates, and accessed via a gap in the wheelarch liner. Fortunately, my trusty Ryobi battery impact, helped by a battery taken straight offf the charger and slapped in immediately, made light work of it, and buzzed it off in a couple of seconds.
Otherwise quite a straightforward job as cam belts go. No special tools needed, and the engine uses good old fashioned timing marks on both crank and cam sprockets. Like most aspects of the car, the cam drive is very logically and robustly designed, as evidenced by the old belt having done coming up on 80,000 miles and showing no obvious signs of excessive wear or cause for alarm.
Shown here with the job finished and the cover ready to be refitted. New belt, idler and tensioner installed, and the obviously shiny new water pump. The latter is fiddly to fit (7x 10mm bolts, some of which are tight for access), but it's not difficult, and the locating dowels handily hold the gasket in place while you manoeuvre the pump into place.
Tensioner is manual and adjusted using an allen key until the pointer aligns with a window/scale on the back plate. There are various positions depending on the ambient temperature. I used the a roughly central position which according to the manual is for 20°C, not a million miles from the temperature in my garage at the time.
In terms of the components that came off, the biggest concern was the auxiliary belt, which had started to break up, and left strips of rubber in the belt grooves on the pulley. It had also worn grooves into the smooth tensioner wheels (old and new tensioners pictured below for reference)
On the timing belt side, both the old tensioner and idler spun freely and smoothly with no roughness or noise from the bearings. No play detectible in any direction either. The water pump had a tiny amount of axial play on the shaft, which you could just about feel if you wiggled the pulley, but again spun smoothly with no roughness, and had shown no sign of leakage. I have to tip a hat to the quality of the components that Volvo specify, and the very straightforward, no-nonsense design of the engine.
I had to invest in a holding tool to prevent the crank rotating while tightening that big crank pulley nut back up to the required 300Nm, but otherwise the job was completed without any special tools whatsoever.
Last but not least, time to remove the all-important sticker from the airbox lid, and attach the new one
Theoretically, by the time this needs doing again the car will be 23 years old, or have 282,000 miles on it. I wonder if it will still be going?
Oil and filter also changed, and the coolant renewed with the proper Volvo brew at the recommended 50% concentration. All bled and topped up, and the car has done 300 miles over the past 4 days without missing a beat.
Edited by Limpet on Thursday 30th March 12:40
Good job!
Sounds like you caught the aux belt in the nick of time, I believe they have a tendency to get dragged into the cambelt when they fail, with catastrophic results.
(As an aside on that I have a colleague who's maintenance schedule is literally non-existent, and on two separate occasions I have pulled bits of aux belt out from her cambelt housing on two different Rav 4's once they have finally failed completely - and twice she has got away with it!)
Sounds like you caught the aux belt in the nick of time, I believe they have a tendency to get dragged into the cambelt when they fail, with catastrophic results.
(As an aside on that I have a colleague who's maintenance schedule is literally non-existent, and on two separate occasions I have pulled bits of aux belt out from her cambelt housing on two different Rav 4's once they have finally failed completely - and twice she has got away with it!)
Thanks all.
The tensioner is held with two bolts. The top one accessible from above but hard to see so you have to use the new tensioner for reference. Access os ok once you find it. The bottom one is easy to get to through the access flap in the offside wheel arch liner.
The new tensioner will come in the slackened position with a securing pin holding it back against the spring. This makes refitting much easier. Bolt the tensioner up, route the new belt correctly, then using a stout pair of pliers, pull the pin out and the tensioner takes up the slack.
I can recommend an eBay seller if you need a parts source. Genuine Volvo kit was £100 and delivered in 3 days.
the-norseman said:
@limpet how easy is the aux belt to do, my car needs it doing but dont fancy paying Volvo MK ££££ to do it.
Am I right in saying you undo the tension off the belt, remove the belt, undo two bolts, remove old tensioner, refit new one and then replace the belt? whats the access like?
Yes that’s pretty much the procedure. You need a T60 Torx bit to rotate the tensioner back against the spring and slip the old belt off. It’s a very strong spring and access is tight. I used the Torx bit with a shallow 10mm socket on the end of it, which allowed just enough room for a 1/4” ratchet handle to fit on the socket. You just need to hold it back long enough to slip the belt off the power steering pump at the top. After that you can unhook it from the other pulleys regardless of where the tensioner is.Am I right in saying you undo the tension off the belt, remove the belt, undo two bolts, remove old tensioner, refit new one and then replace the belt? whats the access like?
The tensioner is held with two bolts. The top one accessible from above but hard to see so you have to use the new tensioner for reference. Access os ok once you find it. The bottom one is easy to get to through the access flap in the offside wheel arch liner.
The new tensioner will come in the slackened position with a securing pin holding it back against the spring. This makes refitting much easier. Bolt the tensioner up, route the new belt correctly, then using a stout pair of pliers, pull the pin out and the tensioner takes up the slack.
I can recommend an eBay seller if you need a parts source. Genuine Volvo kit was £100 and delivered in 3 days.
Edited by Limpet on Saturday 1st April 21:04
Conscious I haven't updated for a while, but there's been little really to update on. The car is proving to be a reliable, comfy workhorse, and the towbar is being put to good use transporting Mrs. Limpet's third child all over Dorset to various events.
On the same day that was taken, this happened
There are a couple of things coming up that are going to need attention. Firstly, the auto box is becoming increasingly unhappy, flaring between shifts and generally being increasingly dim witted. The towing won't be helping with this. I'm going to try a fluid flush first, but need to get the TVR back together and out of the garage before I can crack on with this. Having spoken to a few people in the know, this stands a pretty good chance of success, and is certainly worth a try before forking out for professional attention. The flush is definitely a job for the next month.
Secondly, I want to sort out some modern infotainment for it. I do use the car for business occasionally, and DAB and smartphone integration would be really nice to have. I'm tempted by the "Legend" kit that an owners club member in Hong Kong supplies for about £300 depending on config. Android based, it is plug and play, looks brilliantly OE, and offers full Apple and Android mirroring, and is supports the factory steering wheel controls, as well as integrates seamlessly with reverse cameras, and can even use the pop up screen for the (now useless) factory RTI nav system as a secondary display. It doesn't throw error codes as it leaves the guts of the OE stereo hooked up and connected to the MOST network, and being Android based, can be customised almost infinitely.
Will have to be done in the near future methinks.
On the same day that was taken, this happened
There are a couple of things coming up that are going to need attention. Firstly, the auto box is becoming increasingly unhappy, flaring between shifts and generally being increasingly dim witted. The towing won't be helping with this. I'm going to try a fluid flush first, but need to get the TVR back together and out of the garage before I can crack on with this. Having spoken to a few people in the know, this stands a pretty good chance of success, and is certainly worth a try before forking out for professional attention. The flush is definitely a job for the next month.
Secondly, I want to sort out some modern infotainment for it. I do use the car for business occasionally, and DAB and smartphone integration would be really nice to have. I'm tempted by the "Legend" kit that an owners club member in Hong Kong supplies for about £300 depending on config. Android based, it is plug and play, looks brilliantly OE, and offers full Apple and Android mirroring, and is supports the factory steering wheel controls, as well as integrates seamlessly with reverse cameras, and can even use the pop up screen for the (now useless) factory RTI nav system as a secondary display. It doesn't throw error codes as it leaves the guts of the OE stereo hooked up and connected to the MOST network, and being Android based, can be customised almost infinitely.
Will have to be done in the near future methinks.
Time marches on, but the XC90 continues to be a brilliant, comfortable and reliable family workhorse. It's been towing a horse around Dorset to various events, and doubling up as the family runabout, as well as taking me on a couple of business trips to various parts of the country.
In terms of issues, it's been thankfully quite uneventful with just a couple of bits to report.
I took it into our office late last year on a damp day (when isn't it damp of late?) and put the demister on to find the blower not working. The controls on the panel were illuminating as normal, and I could hear the motors on the flaps working when I selected different options, but no fan. Made the trip interesting with the car fogging up every time I came to a stop.
Got it home and plugged VIDA in to find "CCM-001B Blower Fan Motor. Signal Too Low" logged in the CCM.
Started with the basics and checked the fuse (fine) and the wiring connectors. They were tightly connected, but on closer inspection, something was clearly up.
I was not inclined to suspect the motor itself given that it had always been powerful and quiet, and one day simply didn't work. I was pretty confident this was an electrical issue.
Nevertheless, the motor had to come out as you can't do much with it in situ. And this is an absolute pain in the plums on an XC90. Haynes tells you it's a dash out job, which it is, but only because one of the 5 small Torx screws that holds the motor housing to the heater box is inaccessible with the dash in situ (the other 4 are fine). Despite a few YouTube videos from the US showing how it's possible to cut away insulation and move the heater box on its mounts to get at this stupid screw, and wasting several hours trying this out, I can categorically state this doesn't work for RHD vehicles.
So I bodged it and cut the plastic housing at this fifth screw. Worst case, it wouldn't secure again properly, and I'd have to replace the motor housing and take the dash out anyway. Best case, it would be able to be secured satisfactorily with 4 screws. Not much to lose at this point.
With the 5th screw cut away, the motor drops out as easily as anything.
The motor spun freely and with no play, and given that it had just quit one day rather than become noisy or weak over time, I decided to try replacing the resistor pack. This is the hedgehog like metal piece visible in the above photo which contains the electrical connectors to the car, and also to the motor itself. The motor housing comes apart and allows this to be removed and replaced separately.
I ordered a pattern one from eBay for the princely sum of £31 which arrived a day or so later. Fitted it, plugged the motor in leaving it loose in the footwell, and switched on. Blower working! Plugged in VIDA and the code had gone! Result! Refitted the motor using just the four screws and it seemed suitably secure. Another quick test and there were no noises or obvious issues, so I put everything back together and called it fixed.
March rolled around and thoughts turned to the MOT. Being a horse vehicle, the car was absolutely filthy so first things first was a good clean inside and out. It still amazes me how well it comes up considering the way it is used, and how we are far from meticulous when it comes to cleaning.
I'd picked up a couple of little things that would need addressing for the MOT. The nozzle had fallen out of one of the washer jets and gone AWOL meaning a slosh of washer fluid out of the jet instead of a fine spray. One of the rear number plate bulbs had also failed. Replaced the jet (eBay to the rescue again), and a bulb from Halfords sorted those out. The front tyres are getting low as well, and coming up for replacement, but are above the wear markers so was confident they were OK for the test.
Garage called a bit later. She'd failed on parking brake efficiency. Rather than collect it, bring it home, try and get it done around work and other stuff, and then get it booked back in I opted to let the garage sort it. Next day, I got a call to say it had passed, with the only advisory being on one tyre. The parking brake just needed adjusting so an hour's labour and that was that. Picked the car up and the difference in the travel and performance of the parking brake is night and day. Very happy customer.
Thought I'd include a shot of the MOT emissions report. Pretty good for a 182,000 mile "dirty diesel" I think.
Next job will be some new tyres, and the car will be asking for a service shortly based on it being almost a year since the last one. I will be doing this with a genuine Volvo service kit as last time.
Mrs Limpet and I are still very happy with the car, and are now on a mission to get it to 200,000 miles.
In terms of issues, it's been thankfully quite uneventful with just a couple of bits to report.
I took it into our office late last year on a damp day (when isn't it damp of late?) and put the demister on to find the blower not working. The controls on the panel were illuminating as normal, and I could hear the motors on the flaps working when I selected different options, but no fan. Made the trip interesting with the car fogging up every time I came to a stop.
Got it home and plugged VIDA in to find "CCM-001B Blower Fan Motor. Signal Too Low" logged in the CCM.
Started with the basics and checked the fuse (fine) and the wiring connectors. They were tightly connected, but on closer inspection, something was clearly up.
I was not inclined to suspect the motor itself given that it had always been powerful and quiet, and one day simply didn't work. I was pretty confident this was an electrical issue.
Nevertheless, the motor had to come out as you can't do much with it in situ. And this is an absolute pain in the plums on an XC90. Haynes tells you it's a dash out job, which it is, but only because one of the 5 small Torx screws that holds the motor housing to the heater box is inaccessible with the dash in situ (the other 4 are fine). Despite a few YouTube videos from the US showing how it's possible to cut away insulation and move the heater box on its mounts to get at this stupid screw, and wasting several hours trying this out, I can categorically state this doesn't work for RHD vehicles.
So I bodged it and cut the plastic housing at this fifth screw. Worst case, it wouldn't secure again properly, and I'd have to replace the motor housing and take the dash out anyway. Best case, it would be able to be secured satisfactorily with 4 screws. Not much to lose at this point.
With the 5th screw cut away, the motor drops out as easily as anything.
The motor spun freely and with no play, and given that it had just quit one day rather than become noisy or weak over time, I decided to try replacing the resistor pack. This is the hedgehog like metal piece visible in the above photo which contains the electrical connectors to the car, and also to the motor itself. The motor housing comes apart and allows this to be removed and replaced separately.
I ordered a pattern one from eBay for the princely sum of £31 which arrived a day or so later. Fitted it, plugged the motor in leaving it loose in the footwell, and switched on. Blower working! Plugged in VIDA and the code had gone! Result! Refitted the motor using just the four screws and it seemed suitably secure. Another quick test and there were no noises or obvious issues, so I put everything back together and called it fixed.
March rolled around and thoughts turned to the MOT. Being a horse vehicle, the car was absolutely filthy so first things first was a good clean inside and out. It still amazes me how well it comes up considering the way it is used, and how we are far from meticulous when it comes to cleaning.
I'd picked up a couple of little things that would need addressing for the MOT. The nozzle had fallen out of one of the washer jets and gone AWOL meaning a slosh of washer fluid out of the jet instead of a fine spray. One of the rear number plate bulbs had also failed. Replaced the jet (eBay to the rescue again), and a bulb from Halfords sorted those out. The front tyres are getting low as well, and coming up for replacement, but are above the wear markers so was confident they were OK for the test.
Garage called a bit later. She'd failed on parking brake efficiency. Rather than collect it, bring it home, try and get it done around work and other stuff, and then get it booked back in I opted to let the garage sort it. Next day, I got a call to say it had passed, with the only advisory being on one tyre. The parking brake just needed adjusting so an hour's labour and that was that. Picked the car up and the difference in the travel and performance of the parking brake is night and day. Very happy customer.
Thought I'd include a shot of the MOT emissions report. Pretty good for a 182,000 mile "dirty diesel" I think.
Next job will be some new tyres, and the car will be asking for a service shortly based on it being almost a year since the last one. I will be doing this with a genuine Volvo service kit as last time.
Mrs Limpet and I are still very happy with the car, and are now on a mission to get it to 200,000 miles.
The flush significantly improved it but didn’t fix it. Due to a cock up with the oil supplier I ended up getting another 20 L for next to nothing which is still in the garage. I’ll probably do it again when I service it. Still have the hose i made up to attach to the oil cooler outlet handy
I’m tempted to chuck a replacement valve body on it if that doesn’t cure it which can be done without removing the gearbox. Apparently, sticking solenoids and worn bores are the cause of the vast majority of issues on these gearboxes.
I’m tempted to chuck a replacement valve body on it if that doesn’t cure it which can be done without removing the gearbox. Apparently, sticking solenoids and worn bores are the cause of the vast majority of issues on these gearboxes.
Limpet said:
The flush significantly improved it but didn’t fix it. Due to a cock up with the oil supplier I ended up getting another 20 L for next to nothing which is still in the garage. I’ll probably do it again when I service it. Still have the hose i made up to attach to the oil cooler outlet handy
I’m tempted to chuck a replacement valve body on it if that doesn’t cure it which can be done without removing the gearbox. Apparently, sticking solenoids and worn bores are the cause of the vast majority of issues on these gearboxes.
Main shaft oil seal can also be an issue.I’m tempted to chuck a replacement valve body on it if that doesn’t cure it which can be done without removing the gearbox. Apparently, sticking solenoids and worn bores are the cause of the vast majority of issues on these gearboxes.
It’s a shame as these engines are great except for the s
tty Chinese gearbox bolted to it.There are loads of posts on various Volvo forums about repairing or replacing the valve bodies.
Some get away with a few flushes and adaptations reset, but the latter can be quite a challenge to do.
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