Jaguar F-Pace Non Runner
Discussion
Escy said:
The rear crank seal was leaking, seems crazy he had it all apart and didn't change it, or if he did, he got it wrong.
IMG_20221221_175929243
There's a special tool for the crankshaft seal which is quite expensive but I've seen what happens if you don't have it so I bought one. I also bought the correct timing tools for the engine.
IMG_20221221_175938674
I pulled the sump off, there was bearing material in it. Cylinder number 4 is the one that's knocking.
IMG_20221222_115650896_HDR
It's worn away the conrod cap, looks like he drove it for a while knocking, the bearing shells are totally gone.
IMG_20221222_115632469
This is where I'm at now. I need to strip the engine further to check for any other damage, assuming there is not, there's are 2 options I'm thinking of, take it to a local engine builder and see if it can be re-ground or buy an aftermarket crankshaft, they are £450 (£630 with the bearings). A re-grind would be a few weeks as they are shut for Christmas which would slow my progress down.
Fixing the problem is one thing but knowing the cause and working out if it's related to the first failure is another. If anyone wants to chime in with theory's, please do. It's a different failure than last time. It could have been assembly error, he re-used the conrod bolts, one could have been out of spec and caused the failure. He could have been supplied the wrong size bearings and the tolerances were wrong.
I know you said you had an invoice from Jag for the turbo, did you get one for the fitting the liners?IMG_20221221_175929243
There's a special tool for the crankshaft seal which is quite expensive but I've seen what happens if you don't have it so I bought one. I also bought the correct timing tools for the engine.
IMG_20221221_175938674
I pulled the sump off, there was bearing material in it. Cylinder number 4 is the one that's knocking.
IMG_20221222_115650896_HDR
It's worn away the conrod cap, looks like he drove it for a while knocking, the bearing shells are totally gone.
IMG_20221222_115632469
This is where I'm at now. I need to strip the engine further to check for any other damage, assuming there is not, there's are 2 options I'm thinking of, take it to a local engine builder and see if it can be re-ground or buy an aftermarket crankshaft, they are £450 (£630 with the bearings). A re-grind would be a few weeks as they are shut for Christmas which would slow my progress down.
Fixing the problem is one thing but knowing the cause and working out if it's related to the first failure is another. If anyone wants to chime in with theory's, please do. It's a different failure than last time. It could have been assembly error, he re-used the conrod bolts, one could have been out of spec and caused the failure. He could have been supplied the wrong size bearings and the tolerances were wrong.
Because that liquid joint for the sump looks a little bit to factory applied to me, suggesting the engine has not been apart. Which would also explain the leaking main seal not being dealt with.
Don't these have issues with the oil feed pipes to the pistons, (cooling)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xe-...
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https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xe-...
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Edited by stevemcs on Thursday 22 December 15:58
Edited by stevemcs on Thursday 22 December 15:59
Some good suggestions there which I'll be checking over. Thanks.
received_738924300429669
Megaflow said:
I know you said you had an invoice from Jag for the turbo, did you get one for the fitting the liners?
Because that liquid joint for the sump looks a little bit to factory applied to me, suggesting the engine has not been apart. Which would also explain the leaking main seal not being dealt with.
Yeah, I have an invoice for the bottom end. It's definately been apart, there is a plastic clip on the windage tray to hold a wire that was broken. I don't know what he's used on the mating services, it's been difficult to separate things. More like an adhesive than a silicone, it reminds me of Tiger Seal.Because that liquid joint for the sump looks a little bit to factory applied to me, suggesting the engine has not been apart. Which would also explain the leaking main seal not being dealt with.
received_738924300429669
Taking apart the rest of the bottom end. It's a mess. You can see the metal in the oil. There was pieces of bearing in the sump but the oil in general doesn't seem to be contaminated with metal in it, no sign of any behind the rear timing cover where the chains are. I haven't looked at the cams yet.
IMG_20221222_204715447
IMG_20221222_204839426_HDR
Crank out, I think maybe I should get myself an engine stand.
IMG_20221222_213314221
That's all the caps off. Every shell is damaged, it spun the big end shells on cylinder 1 and 3 as well.
IMG_20221222_213937001
IMG_20221222_213945496
IMG_20221222_213951409
Looking at it, I thought it had been knocking for a while but speaking to the previous owner, he said he heard a knocking, within 20 seconds the oil light came on and the engine seized.
It's worse than I thought it would be. I need to strip the top end down and see how it is. The crank journal looks bad but it's bearing material fused to it's surface rather than chucks taken out of it.
IMG_20221222_214038530
IMG_20221222_204715447
IMG_20221222_204839426_HDR
Crank out, I think maybe I should get myself an engine stand.
IMG_20221222_213314221
That's all the caps off. Every shell is damaged, it spun the big end shells on cylinder 1 and 3 as well.
IMG_20221222_213937001
IMG_20221222_213945496
IMG_20221222_213951409
Looking at it, I thought it had been knocking for a while but speaking to the previous owner, he said he heard a knocking, within 20 seconds the oil light came on and the engine seized.
It's worse than I thought it would be. I need to strip the top end down and see how it is. The crank journal looks bad but it's bearing material fused to it's surface rather than chucks taken out of it.
IMG_20221222_214038530
Escy said:
Yeah, I have an invoice for the bottom end. It's definately been apart, there is a plastic clip on the windage tray to hold a wire that was broken. I don't know what he's used on the mating services, it's been difficult to separate things. More like an adhesive than a silicone, it reminds me of Tiger Seal.
received_738924300429669
Fair enough. Normally when people put liquid joint on things there is way too much of it.received_738924300429669
shalmaneser said:
That block is crap is it not? New crank + line boring + new Conrods at least?
I need to inspect it a bit more, I'm going to take the cams out, if the caps are in a similar state then I'll need to see about another engine.I was expecting a replacement crank/repair and at least one rod anyway so this isn't too far from what I thought. I'll now need to replace all the rods but they aren't expensive and probably the oil pump which is expensive. I'll strip that down first.
None of the mains span a bearing and looking at the damage, the closer they are to the knocking rod the worse the wear. I wasn't going to get line boring done. Would that be a mistake?
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