Discussion
Have still been chipping away at things that seemed to have taken forever. First up, whilst out I wanted to upgrade to a slightly larger alternator (60a) as although it coped ok the little 40a denso must have been borderline. Also i wanted to tidy up the engine mounts as they were a little rough and ready.
The plan was to mount the alternator off the existing pulley mount on the engine timing cover. Mocked up
Had the alt bracket and engine mounts water jet cut.
Alt bracket with it's dowel pins that will fit into the existing holes on the engine.
As the alt was now independantly mounted I needed to make up the new n/s mount. It needed to sneak inbetween the alt and the oil filter, which due to the sandwich plate for the oil cooler, was now even more in the way. I could have gone for a shorter filter but as the rocketeer sump runs at a lower capacity I wanted to keep the large filter.
Snug.
Whilst it was In for the mount tack up another slight issue cropped up. The newer engine moves the oil filler neck up to the top of the cam cover and is taller. Too tall in fact as it was fouling on the bonnet.
I did think about cutting the filler down and getting it re-welded but then on removal found it was a magnesium alloy which I'm told is incredibly difficult to weld. So I went for a different approach.
And hacked the top off a spare cap.
That should be enough to clear. I've also 3d printed a top to bond to the cap to aid removal.
Another job that needed sorting was a slight weep from the box. It was leaking from the joins in the casing. I could have attempted to repair it but as mx5 gearboxes are so cheap I just bought another.
And the engine is now in aswell. Fingers crossed for the final Bloody time.
The plan was to mount the alternator off the existing pulley mount on the engine timing cover. Mocked up
Had the alt bracket and engine mounts water jet cut.
Alt bracket with it's dowel pins that will fit into the existing holes on the engine.
As the alt was now independantly mounted I needed to make up the new n/s mount. It needed to sneak inbetween the alt and the oil filter, which due to the sandwich plate for the oil cooler, was now even more in the way. I could have gone for a shorter filter but as the rocketeer sump runs at a lower capacity I wanted to keep the large filter.
Snug.
Whilst it was In for the mount tack up another slight issue cropped up. The newer engine moves the oil filler neck up to the top of the cam cover and is taller. Too tall in fact as it was fouling on the bonnet.
I did think about cutting the filler down and getting it re-welded but then on removal found it was a magnesium alloy which I'm told is incredibly difficult to weld. So I went for a different approach.
And hacked the top off a spare cap.
That should be enough to clear. I've also 3d printed a top to bond to the cap to aid removal.
Another job that needed sorting was a slight weep from the box. It was leaking from the joins in the casing. I could have attempted to repair it but as mx5 gearboxes are so cheap I just bought another.
And the engine is now in aswell. Fingers crossed for the final Bloody time.
wrayvon said:
Keep up the good work!
Jealous of your access to a 3D printer also... maybe I need to invest in one
They are very handy. Especially for bits like the oil cap or for prototyping bits. Jealous of your access to a 3D printer also... maybe I need to invest in one
So engine is not far off buttoned up.
As the injector locations are different, some of the coils face the opposite way and the cam sensor being in a different location I had to reroute a fair chunk of wiring.
And tidied up
New aux belt ordered and alternator all mounted up
I had previously ran a dead head single fuel line to the front of the car with the reg and return at the tank. Jenvey and Kms both recommend using a traditional return line with the regulator after the fuel rail. So an additional kunifer solid line was ran in. All the hoses in the engine bay have been replaced with PTFE hoses and AN fittings.
Plumbing has also been ran in for the laminova. Just awaiting a pipe getting welded for the tee off for the heater pipe with the 2 sensor bosses for the coolant sensors. This did arrive last week but some numpty ordered one with the wrong thread.
I had hoped to use an off the shelf air filter from reverie, however with the fuel rails getting in the way and height being critical it just wouldn't fit. However the very helpful guys at reverie and ITG made a custom one at a lower height for no extra cost.
Whilst waiting for bits, thought I'd take a look at a niggle I'd had ever since the start. The diff pinion had leaked ever since it was overhauled. Well I say leak it was a weep really. Even rested up over winter it wouldnt drop a drip. I'd ummed and arred even just leaving it as the level hadn't dropped but it was leaking and it shouldn't.
Weepy goodness
As the sierra diff input flange is just a bolt on flange (and doesn't disturb the pinion torque) I'd hoped to try and do it in situe but with my chassis being a narrow tunnel model there was no hope.
With the flange off can see where it was coming from.
New seal fitted and while it was out gave it an oil change, didn't really need it but daft not to while it's out as it doesn't have a drain plug so isn't the easiest to do in situe.
Diff back in.
Another task Id wanted to do for a while and made sense to do whilst the back end was apart was to add a 3rd brake light. So bought a kit from mofast and bonded it to the underside of the roll bar.
Was going to start with the final assembly and fit of the throttle bodies but at the last moment realised I had the wrong config of linkage levers. I'd been sent them set up with the centre body as the master rather than the end one. At first I thought I needed 4 but after disassembling and shuffling the levers around got it down to just 1. Thankfully as they are 30 euros each. Along with a quite frankly ridiculous postage cost of 25 euros 1 lever ended up being 48 quid.
Weepy goodness
As the sierra diff input flange is just a bolt on flange (and doesn't disturb the pinion torque) I'd hoped to try and do it in situe but with my chassis being a narrow tunnel model there was no hope.
With the flange off can see where it was coming from.
New seal fitted and while it was out gave it an oil change, didn't really need it but daft not to while it's out as it doesn't have a drain plug so isn't the easiest to do in situe.
Diff back in.
Another task Id wanted to do for a while and made sense to do whilst the back end was apart was to add a 3rd brake light. So bought a kit from mofast and bonded it to the underside of the roll bar.
Was going to start with the final assembly and fit of the throttle bodies but at the last moment realised I had the wrong config of linkage levers. I'd been sent them set up with the centre body as the master rather than the end one. At first I thought I needed 4 but after disassembling and shuffling the levers around got it down to just 1. Thankfully as they are 30 euros each. Along with a quite frankly ridiculous postage cost of 25 euros 1 lever ended up being 48 quid.
Edited by sdh2903 on Monday 27th February 18:32
Justin S said:
I last read on the forum before I left , you were on the first engine. That was a while ago and the 'influx' of engines has been quite impressive , in a sods law kind of way.
Not sure if you remember, that my rad also dumped its coolant within 100 miles in a similar fashion , with a standard S2000 pump. Ian was getting through them by the handful. They were all basically rubbish. Cheap for the factory to buy and change the earth for them.
I always admired your way of going slightly off normal with your builds, even if there is a few V6's now north of the border. I was looking for the number plate board in the garage
If I mentioned to the Mrs in building another Westfield, it would be divorce , without question. The dismay that the build caused , she would shoot me if I did it again. And she has just got a new job involving shotguns.............. best not mention it.
Yeah theres now been loads of premature rad failures all with differing engine and water pump configurations, just cheap crap, the guy who built the new one said its just the cheapest possible imported cores that are the problem. Not sure if you remember, that my rad also dumped its coolant within 100 miles in a similar fashion , with a standard S2000 pump. Ian was getting through them by the handful. They were all basically rubbish. Cheap for the factory to buy and change the earth for them.
I always admired your way of going slightly off normal with your builds, even if there is a few V6's now north of the border. I was looking for the number plate board in the garage
If I mentioned to the Mrs in building another Westfield, it would be divorce , without question. The dismay that the build caused , she would shoot me if I did it again. And she has just got a new job involving shotguns.............. best not mention it.
Yes definitly keep the mantra happy wife, happy life when theres guns involved
So it seems like ive been treading water a bit of late, but things have started to come together a bit in the past week.
Firstly the altered coolant pipe arrived back and after a coat of paint, fitted up and the coolant refilled and bled. Pipework routing isnt perfect and not as neat as i'd like but will do for now while i see what effect the laminova has.
I'd whipped off the throttle bodies to build them up with all the o rings and get them to a baseline setup, in doing so id noticed that the levers had varying adjustment inbetween cylinders, so on one bank on end would be at the far end of adjustment whilst the other end was adjusted to the opposite end. Having spoken to KMS they were aware of a hand bent batch of link levers that were shipped whilst a machine was out of operation with varying levels of tolerance. They agreed to send me out a new batch free of charge. When they arrived the bodies were broken down and all swapped over. Things are much better now. Knocked up some gaskets ready for final installation.
I had a to-do list of things to look at on the interior too. The carpet over the tunnel was splitting at the join at the tunnet top, also as it was a single piece carpet it meant a major strip out to do a simple handbrake cable adjustment. The single piece carpet was binned and I used some 4 way stretch carpet left over from a mates camper project on the tunnel sides and some quilted vinyl left from my previous westfield for the top. Also 3d printed up some new gear lever and handbrake trims, just waiting on new gaiters arriving.
The drivers heated seat had never really worked, much to the amusement of my daughter who automatically switches hers on whenever she ventures out with me. I thought it was going to be a pad change but for a change it was a simple fix, i'd crossed 2 wires. They dont really get 'hot' but do get warm enough to make a difference when its chilly.
With the bodies now back in, sorted out the throttle cable. Luckily the KMS bodies will take jenvey bits, so I'm using the jenvey staggered throttle inputs with the link cable to join the banks, works well and easy to setup. Even managed to keep my existing cable.
Then it was time to sort the filter backplate. The air filter config had caused lots of headaches due to fuel rails being in the way, and the primary concern of bonnet clearance. It came down to really 2 choices, mount the back plate directly to the underside of the trumpet lips, or go for an airbox with a cone filter where there's room for one. As the primary reason for going for the ITBs was for the noise I didnt want to lose that by using an airbox, it may well end up being the case that it ends up too noisy and if it does it will be a future option. After ordering a couple of bits of 2mm ally same size as the filter, got to work with the holesaw.
And fitted up, along with the Intake air temp sensor
And finally test fitted with the bonnet to make sure it cleared.
Before giving up for the day I wanted to turn the engine over for the first time with the fuel pump fuse pulled to make sure I had oil pressure, which it does! Am rapidly running out of jobs now before attemting to fire it up.
Firstly the altered coolant pipe arrived back and after a coat of paint, fitted up and the coolant refilled and bled. Pipework routing isnt perfect and not as neat as i'd like but will do for now while i see what effect the laminova has.
I'd whipped off the throttle bodies to build them up with all the o rings and get them to a baseline setup, in doing so id noticed that the levers had varying adjustment inbetween cylinders, so on one bank on end would be at the far end of adjustment whilst the other end was adjusted to the opposite end. Having spoken to KMS they were aware of a hand bent batch of link levers that were shipped whilst a machine was out of operation with varying levels of tolerance. They agreed to send me out a new batch free of charge. When they arrived the bodies were broken down and all swapped over. Things are much better now. Knocked up some gaskets ready for final installation.
I had a to-do list of things to look at on the interior too. The carpet over the tunnel was splitting at the join at the tunnet top, also as it was a single piece carpet it meant a major strip out to do a simple handbrake cable adjustment. The single piece carpet was binned and I used some 4 way stretch carpet left over from a mates camper project on the tunnel sides and some quilted vinyl left from my previous westfield for the top. Also 3d printed up some new gear lever and handbrake trims, just waiting on new gaiters arriving.
The drivers heated seat had never really worked, much to the amusement of my daughter who automatically switches hers on whenever she ventures out with me. I thought it was going to be a pad change but for a change it was a simple fix, i'd crossed 2 wires. They dont really get 'hot' but do get warm enough to make a difference when its chilly.
With the bodies now back in, sorted out the throttle cable. Luckily the KMS bodies will take jenvey bits, so I'm using the jenvey staggered throttle inputs with the link cable to join the banks, works well and easy to setup. Even managed to keep my existing cable.
Then it was time to sort the filter backplate. The air filter config had caused lots of headaches due to fuel rails being in the way, and the primary concern of bonnet clearance. It came down to really 2 choices, mount the back plate directly to the underside of the trumpet lips, or go for an airbox with a cone filter where there's room for one. As the primary reason for going for the ITBs was for the noise I didnt want to lose that by using an airbox, it may well end up being the case that it ends up too noisy and if it does it will be a future option. After ordering a couple of bits of 2mm ally same size as the filter, got to work with the holesaw.
And fitted up, along with the Intake air temp sensor
And finally test fitted with the bonnet to make sure it cleared.
Before giving up for the day I wanted to turn the engine over for the first time with the fuel pump fuse pulled to make sure I had oil pressure, which it does! Am rapidly running out of jobs now before attemting to fire it up.
ronmac7 said:
Hi, I have a Black SEIW with a red top engine, type 9 based Quaife straight cut close ratio very noisy box and the same L.S.D as you. I must say that I have really enjoyed your build, I hope there is a bit more to come yet.
Re your Hi level brake light did you run the wiring internally down through the roll bar ?.
Ron.
Thanks Ron.Re your Hi level brake light did you run the wiring internally down through the roll bar ?.
Ron.
Yes I drilled a small hole and ran the wiring inside. I know some will say I've compromised the roll bar but it's not a competition car and I couldn't deal with wires clipped to the bar.
So yesterday and a bit more time today were spent getting it running. Good news in the fact there's no coolant/fuel/oil leaks despite the new plumbing arrangements and is making good oil pressure. Sadly not all good news as it's as rough as a bag of spanners and not running on all 6. I know the throttle bodies are a big change but the base engine is the same so was hoping for it to fire up and then tweak the bodies to suit, I'd set all 6 up with a very small amount of equal butterfly opening on the bench. But am getting a bit of back firing into the inlets and I think cylinder 1 isn't firing at all. Almost feels as though the timing or firing order is way off.
I need to go through the wiring that was moved for the injectors just to confirm I've not ballsed it up and then maybe reset the bodies to full closed as it's been suggested that it's leaning out too much although tweaking the fuel on the map didn't really help with the rough running. If anyone has any experience ot tips getting an initial setup on Jenvey SF type bodies then I'm all ears!
Thanks Danjuan for the comprehensive info.
To answer a few points.
1. On my list to do.
2. Will do, although the coils are new ish and were working on the previous engine that was installed, swapping coils around has no effect.
3. Injectors again are les than 2k old and removed from working engine, even in #1 that im pretty certain isnt firing is getting fuel as you can see the vapour on the pre-start squirt. The one thing that i do need to check first is the injector wiring, this is the only part of the loom that needed to be extended so I need to double check the wiring is correct.
4. Brand new engine, but will do a test to confirm.
5. Have one, just wanted to at least get it running on all 6 before attempting to balance
6. wideband but only on 1 bank.
7. The link cable is good at present, the tiniest of inputs on the 'master' bank is replicated perfectly on the 'slave' The tps is indeed on the end of the 'slave' bank and has been re-calibrated.
12. no space for a rigid arm assembly. This link setup is a jenvey item and i know a few people running it very successfully.
13. Thats my plan, ideally i wanted it driveable, but at least need to make sure its running on all 6 first. My mapper is very helpful and is going to remote connect to the car next week to see if he can see anything untoward, hes done this with me in the past where ive been driving whilst hes been tweaking to ensure i have a safe map to do running in or to get it to the dyno.
Emerald have given me a list of things to do/check aswell so i will work through them, they arent convinced its sensor related, especially not the cam sensor as it should still run well enough with cam sensor disconnected, just not sequential, and disconnecting the sensor has no effect at all at present.
To answer a few points.
1. On my list to do.
2. Will do, although the coils are new ish and were working on the previous engine that was installed, swapping coils around has no effect.
3. Injectors again are les than 2k old and removed from working engine, even in #1 that im pretty certain isnt firing is getting fuel as you can see the vapour on the pre-start squirt. The one thing that i do need to check first is the injector wiring, this is the only part of the loom that needed to be extended so I need to double check the wiring is correct.
4. Brand new engine, but will do a test to confirm.
5. Have one, just wanted to at least get it running on all 6 before attempting to balance
6. wideband but only on 1 bank.
7. The link cable is good at present, the tiniest of inputs on the 'master' bank is replicated perfectly on the 'slave' The tps is indeed on the end of the 'slave' bank and has been re-calibrated.
12. no space for a rigid arm assembly. This link setup is a jenvey item and i know a few people running it very successfully.
13. Thats my plan, ideally i wanted it driveable, but at least need to make sure its running on all 6 first. My mapper is very helpful and is going to remote connect to the car next week to see if he can see anything untoward, hes done this with me in the past where ive been driving whilst hes been tweaking to ensure i have a safe map to do running in or to get it to the dyno.
Emerald have given me a list of things to do/check aswell so i will work through them, they arent convinced its sensor related, especially not the cam sensor as it should still run well enough with cam sensor disconnected, just not sequential, and disconnecting the sensor has no effect at all at present.
Dan Juan said:
OK sounds like you are on top of it all - heck injector and spark plug function one by one. Are you wasted spark? Sequential injection? That probs makes the fuelling or timing of injection less critical. have you checked that your igintin advance is what you think it is?
Yes I'm running fully sequential. As a slight non-commital update, I had convinced myself it was likely something to do with the fact I had rewired the injectors due the location change on the ITBs, however on carrying out the wiring checks these were all correct. I did make the discovery though that the connectors i've used on all 6 injectors and on 3 coils are utter s
te (my usual supplier were out of stock), the pins were moving around a lot in the connector housing and a couple of the retaining levers inside had broken allowing pins to push back very easily. So having not found anything mechanically wrong I strongly suspect this is the root of my issue. New connectors are on order. Just struggling to get time to tinker as its half term up here, shame as the weather has been great 
Finally some progress. These pesky kids being on holiday doesn't half damage the garage time.
So as previous the connectors I'd used on half the coils and all injectors were st. So I replaced all 12 with better quality ones. Also during fault finding I noted the cam sensor connector, whilst the right shape it wasn't the right depth so the lock wasn't engaging. Don't think it was causing my issue but it would have down the road, so a good spot. Thats now been replaced aswell.
So gave it a try today and it fired straight up without any throttle input to a decent idle
Got them balanced up nicely and gave the idle fuelling a little tweak.
Sounds lovely. Have messaged my mapping chap to see when he can fit me in on the Dyno. He was hopeful it wouldn't take long and would fit me in around other jobs so hopefully won't be too long. In the mean time I've just a few bits of body work to refit and will get out and put some running in miles on it this week.
So as previous the connectors I'd used on half the coils and all injectors were s
t. So I replaced all 12 with better quality ones. Also during fault finding I noted the cam sensor connector, whilst the right shape it wasn't the right depth so the lock wasn't engaging. Don't think it was causing my issue but it would have down the road, so a good spot. Thats now been replaced aswell.So gave it a try today and it fired straight up without any throttle input to a decent idle
Got them balanced up nicely and gave the idle fuelling a little tweak.
Sounds lovely. Have messaged my mapping chap to see when he can fit me in on the Dyno. He was hopeful it wouldn't take long and would fit me in around other jobs so hopefully won't be too long. In the mean time I've just a few bits of body work to refit and will get out and put some running in miles on it this week.
Edited by sdh2903 on Monday 17th April 18:26
shalmaneser said:
Looks and sounds magnificent! Is that the temp sensor on the backplate? Possible issues with heat soak? Fascinated to see what it makes at the dyno vs the standard throttle. Only half the story of course, the response will be better I'm sure.
Yes it's the intake air temp sensor. Am not sure really where else it could have gone, heatsoak in general is a concern with this setup I think. Its going to have to be one of those try and see things. I know how the IAT looked with the old setup when static and moving so will keep an eye on it.Dyno will be interesting. I'm a bit gutted not to be doing a true back to back with the same engine to see just how the figures compare. Am not expecting big gains, in fact with shortening the inlet tracts am probably expecting a small drop in torque if anything. As you say the itb conversion was more about the throttle response, character and the noise more than anything.
Dyno is now booked for the 2nd may so not long to wait.
Was hopefully going to get out for a shakedown run today. But anything off idle and it's not happy. Running way too lean, only to be expected I guess with the TB's slurping in more air. I'm not clever enough to enrich the whole map but my mapper chap is going to remote connect over TeamViewer and do some tweaks to get it safely driveable.
In the mean time it was about time for a scrub to remove 6 months of garage dust.
Nice to have it all back together. Ignore the temp breather arrangement. Just waiting on some plumbing to arrive to get ilthe catch can plumbed in.
Ref the above image. I've never been happy with the air filter weird off grey/brown colour. There's been an unnecessary amount of emails bouncing backwards and forwards between me, the supplier and the manufacturer. Finally this week a solution was sorted and a new black foamed filter is in work but due lead times it's 5 or 6 weeks (but at least I get to keep this one)
Also have a carbon chin spoiler that I'd forgotten about to fit. Although am not 100% sold on the looks of it. I think I need to double sided tape it on to get a proper look before committing and drilling anything.
In the mean time it was about time for a scrub to remove 6 months of garage dust.
Nice to have it all back together. Ignore the temp breather arrangement. Just waiting on some plumbing to arrive to get ilthe catch can plumbed in.
Ref the above image. I've never been happy with the air filter weird off grey/brown colour. There's been an unnecessary amount of emails bouncing backwards and forwards between me, the supplier and the manufacturer. Finally this week a solution was sorted and a new black foamed filter is in work but due lead times it's 5 or 6 weeks (but at least I get to keep this one)
Also have a carbon chin spoiler that I'd forgotten about to fit. Although am not 100% sold on the looks of it. I think I need to double sided tape it on to get a proper look before committing and drilling anything.
As the bonnet scoop is now actually being used as an intake, I have opened it up a little.
Before
|https://thumbsnap.com/kmeUA1gG[/url]
And after
Can also just see the clearance with the bonnet to see just how tight I am on space.
Will now get a template made up for the scoop hole and I'm going to get a grille 3d printed for it in the same hexagonal mesh style as the main nose grille.
Remote map tweaking later on. Will be good to get out again before the Scottish summer finishes in about 2 weeks![url]
Before
|https://thumbsnap.com/kmeUA1gG[/url]And after
Can also just see the clearance with the bonnet to see just how tight I am on space.
Will now get a template made up for the scoop hole and I'm going to get a grille 3d printed for it in the same hexagonal mesh style as the main nose grille.
Remote map tweaking later on. Will be good to get out again before the Scottish summer finishes in about 2 weeks![url]
wrayvon said:
I can certainly relate to the engine(or in your case, filter) being close to the bonnet!
If you decide you don't want that carbon front lip, do let me know please
Will do.If you decide you don't want that carbon front lip, do let me know please
Shouldn't really complain, trying to fit a big daft engine in a small toy car
The mapping bloke did his stuff remotely this afternoon and it's now driveable, far from perfect, but safe enough for some shakedown miles before Dyno next week. I'm on an rpm curfew until then but better safe than sorry.
Couple of things from the test drive, the inlet air temp sensor readings do build when stationary as you'd expect but drop very quickly when moving, very similar to the previous intake so I think will be ok. Secondly the laminova is working, it's not been worked hard yet obviously but oil temps definitely lower.
B'stard Child said:
Will be very interested in feedback on this - especially seeing as it's such a compact unit
I assume it also aids heat up of the oil as well?
Yes it does warm up quicker. This one is the middle sized one which is allegedly equivalent to a 16 row air/oil cooler. Problems were at sustained higher rpms when cruising the oil temps would be climbing north of 120 and due to the new better rad the coolant would be 30/40 degrees less. Hoping the laminova should even things up a bit. Will be interesting to see how it works in reality and with some higher ambient temps too.I assume it also aids heat up of the oil as well?
Bit random I know. But I have a surplus engine in the garage that's getting in the way. It was running on removal but haven't opened it up. Its basically the bottom end minus the sump and pickup (but I do have a cheap new sump on eBay) plus the heads. There's a set of cam covers slaved on but need seals and bolts. Timing chain cover is fitted but has been modded with the alternator mount flange trimmed.
If anyone wants it or can make use of it it's free to collect from near Glasgow. Or I can pallet it up if someone really wants to arrange shipping.
Very much for spares or repair or turning into a coffee table.
Probably worth something in bits but eBayers are exhausting.
If anyone wants it or can make use of it it's free to collect from near Glasgow. Or I can pallet it up if someone really wants to arrange shipping.
Very much for spares or repair or turning into a coffee table.
Probably worth something in bits but eBayers are exhausting.
Edited by sdh2903 on Tuesday 25th April 16:54
Have managed to put some miles on the car over the past few days. The new clutch specified it required 2-300 miles bedding in before any dyno work and I'm just about there. Speaking of the clutch, with it being a semi-paddle plate I was a bit apprehensive on how it drove but it's great. A bit lighter than the competition clutch it replaced and a bit more progressive too. I did need to adjust the pedal throw a touch as it was a bit different to the old clutch.
Other winter work is all working well. The heated seats are superb now they are wired properly. Was a bit nippy at 5 degrees over the hills yesterday but was very snug. The diff seal has cured the weep from the input pinion and the replacement gearbox is slick and leak free.
The laminova is also working exactly as I'd hoped too. Previously consistent 70ish mph would see oil temps up at 120 and climbing with coolant down in the 80s. Now under same conditions oil stays at 100-105 and coolant is low 90s.
I did have a slight coolant weep that I initially thought was the return of my rad woes but was just the bottom hose needed a nip up as is usually the case with silicon hoses. And one of the oil hose connections on the laminova is sweating a bit despite a good nip up. I also seem to have gained a slight pull to the right under heavy braking. I have a new set of ds2500 pads to go in so will have to have a look over the front right caliper.
I did take a very small vid. Still taking it relatively easy of course
Other winter work is all working well. The heated seats are superb now they are wired properly. Was a bit nippy at 5 degrees over the hills yesterday but was very snug. The diff seal has cured the weep from the input pinion and the replacement gearbox is slick and leak free.
The laminova is also working exactly as I'd hoped too. Previously consistent 70ish mph would see oil temps up at 120 and climbing with coolant down in the 80s. Now under same conditions oil stays at 100-105 and coolant is low 90s.
I did have a slight coolant weep that I initially thought was the return of my rad woes but was just the bottom hose needed a nip up as is usually the case with silicon hoses. And one of the oil hose connections on the laminova is sweating a bit despite a good nip up. I also seem to have gained a slight pull to the right under heavy braking. I have a new set of ds2500 pads to go in so will have to have a look over the front right caliper.
I did take a very small vid. Still taking it relatively easy of course
Well in 10 years of kit ownership I had my first breakdown that I couldn't fix by the road without any assistance. And it was very nearly a terminal issue. I had just pulled up to a roundabout on a busy A road and clouds of smoke from under the bonnet. Managed to bail off to the side and kill it just as the oil pressure alarm went nuts.
One of the mocal push fit hoses to the laminova had popped off emptying the oil over the engine bay. I was pissed off that it happened, but grateful where it did and I could kill it instantly. Could also have been a lot worse if the oil had gone straight onto a hot manifold.
Luckily I was only 10 mins from home so I'd got my eldest daughter organised with some oil and a box of jubilees to get me home, when a very kind AA man pulled over and fitted me a jubilee clip just as the daughter arrived with oil. So was back up and running asap. I reckon it only ran with minimal oil pressure for 5 seconds max so am hopeful I've avoided any long term damage. After refilling with oil it sounded normal so it's just fingers crossed how it goes.
Have completely lost faith in the mocal hoses and push fit hardware. Have double jubilee clipped all the hose ends for now whilst I get some replacements sorted.
One of the mocal push fit hoses to the laminova had popped off emptying the oil over the engine bay. I was pissed off that it happened, but grateful where it did and I could kill it instantly. Could also have been a lot worse if the oil had gone straight onto a hot manifold.
Luckily I was only 10 mins from home so I'd got my eldest daughter organised with some oil and a box of jubilees to get me home, when a very kind AA man pulled over and fitted me a jubilee clip just as the daughter arrived with oil. So was back up and running asap. I reckon it only ran with minimal oil pressure for 5 seconds max so am hopeful I've avoided any long term damage. After refilling with oil it sounded normal so it's just fingers crossed how it goes.
Have completely lost faith in the mocal hoses and push fit hardware. Have double jubilee clipped all the hose ends for now whilst I get some replacements sorted.
Yazza54 said:
The only downside of heat exchangers like that laminova is they do dump heat from the oil into the water ... Hopefully as the weather get hotter you don't end up marginal on your water temps especially when driving more spiritedly. If that does happen you'll end up hot on both oil and water and may need a bigger rad.
I went through all this on my race car and ended up getting rid of the heat exchanger and just improving both systems independently.
Cruising at a steady speed is not an adequate test of a cooling system.
I get your point. But as this is predominantly a road car I've approached the problem to fix the main problem I had. Blasting along A roads and b roads wasn't too much of an issue. It was only continued fastcruising rpms that saw oil temps increasing to levels I wasn't happy with. I went through all this on my race car and ended up getting rid of the heat exchanger and just improving both systems independently.
Cruising at a steady speed is not an adequate test of a cooling system.
Edited by Yazza54 on Tuesday 2nd May 08:46
Since the new, improved (and enlarged) rad was installed I've had loads of headway on the coolant side. Yes the exchanger will reduce that headway but has drastically improved the oil temp issue. As you correctly say high ambient temps will be the acid test. I do have the radiator ducting to reinstall should it be required to improve radiator airflow further.
If it were a race car I would almost definitely have just fitted an air/oil cooler instead.
Edited by sdh2903 on Tuesday 2nd May 19:16
Dyno day at last.
Even jubilee'd up I was still fretting over the oil hoses but didn't want to lose my appointment as the mapping chap is busy busy. A rush hour slog around paisley out to East Kilbride to avoid the m8 carpark had me there nice and early.
Chris did his thing and the car is now running sweetly. Throttle response is excellent and pickup anything above 1500 rpms is superb.
Headline figures of 234bhp and 282nm at the hubs (hub pack Dyno) were achieved. This is an increase of 24bhp and a small loss of 2nm since my last session. The loss on the torque figure was expected due to the reduced runner lengths and I was pleasantly surprised it wasn't more. At 6500 rpms the power started picking up again and we did discuss raising the rev limit a bit but I decided 7100 was enough. Chris felt there was definitely more in it should I do the mods to achieve it safely in future.
We also played around with the vvt settings as this version of the engine has a different actuation compared to the old one. In the end the old settings worked best still, iirc on at 2500 off at 6000, changing the switch points could dent the torque by 30+nm.
All in all very happy. I've ordered the bits to make up some new oil hoses to ditch the push fits and then hopefully it will just be a case of putting miles on it over the summer.
Even jubilee'd up I was still fretting over the oil hoses but didn't want to lose my appointment as the mapping chap is busy busy. A rush hour slog around paisley out to East Kilbride to avoid the m8 carpark had me there nice and early.
Chris did his thing and the car is now running sweetly. Throttle response is excellent and pickup anything above 1500 rpms is superb.
Headline figures of 234bhp and 282nm at the hubs (hub pack Dyno) were achieved. This is an increase of 24bhp and a small loss of 2nm since my last session. The loss on the torque figure was expected due to the reduced runner lengths and I was pleasantly surprised it wasn't more. At 6500 rpms the power started picking up again and we did discuss raising the rev limit a bit but I decided 7100 was enough. Chris felt there was definitely more in it should I do the mods to achieve it safely in future.
We also played around with the vvt settings as this version of the engine has a different actuation compared to the old one. In the end the old settings worked best still, iirc on at 2500 off at 6000, changing the switch points could dent the torque by 30+nm.
All in all very happy. I've ordered the bits to make up some new oil hoses to ditch the push fits and then hopefully it will just be a case of putting miles on it over the summer.
Edited by sdh2903 on Tuesday 2nd May 19:38
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff