2005 Volvo V70 2.5T SE
Discussion
30 minutes to get the alternator almost out, only to find out I needed to remove the top radiator hose.
I drained 3 litres coolant to allow me to remove the top hose
All zipped up again and engine started. Just need to burp the coolant and it's good to go.
Went for a drive in the dark and can confirm the pulsating lights are no longer. I managed to burp the cooling system but sill have a little more that I took out, so in theory it should go back in. Hopefully by the morning the level will drop enough to top it off.
Anyone looking for an alternator would be advised to give the Eurocarparts RTX series a wide berth. This one is less than a year old and on its way out
I drained 3 litres coolant to allow me to remove the top hose
All zipped up again and engine started. Just need to burp the coolant and it's good to go.
Went for a drive in the dark and can confirm the pulsating lights are no longer. I managed to burp the cooling system but sill have a little more that I took out, so in theory it should go back in. Hopefully by the morning the level will drop enough to top it off.
Anyone looking for an alternator would be advised to give the Eurocarparts RTX series a wide berth. This one is less than a year old and on its way out
After fitting the new alternator I decided to check the battery side of things and whoever fitted the new Halford battery last year must have been on a budget and fitted a tiny 027. As I often travel up to the highlands in the snow I decided not to chance it and fitted an 096 Bosch battery today which is the size the 2.5T would have left the factory with. I know the battery tray will accommodate an 019 but as I don't have a diesel engine I felt that would be overkill for my car.
Halfords 027 battery
Bosch 096 battery
Halfords 027 battery
Bosch 096 battery
Happy Birthday Kära. 18 years ago today the V70 was first registered and driven out of Stratstone Volvo, Rochdale Road, Oldham by its first owner, 65 year old Hubert Hirst of The Oldham Evening Chronicle. It now has a grand total of 65,800 miles on the clock after sitting unused in a garage for almost 10 years after Hubert passed away. A search online and I've found a Google Streetview image from 2008 and the car is sitting in the driveway of Hubert's house
Sometimes when searching for obsolete Volvo parts one has to resign oneself to the fact that it just isn't going to happen. Then when forgotten about, something pops up online and that gets one thinking it just might be the illusive item I never imagined I would ever find as a NOS item
A NOS set of V70 Exc floor mats had my eyes wide open, after a quich search of the part number I decided rather quickly to contact the vendor and they are now mine.
Shoes off at the door thank you
A NOS set of V70 Exc floor mats had my eyes wide open, after a quich search of the part number I decided rather quickly to contact the vendor and they are now mine.
Shoes off at the door thank you
I went to a Volvo meet yesterday in the Glencoe area of the highlands, no flat roads, little chance for the gearbox to lock up in top gear (50mph) so a lot of driving around in 4th gear.
I filled up with Shell V-Power before I left home
The odometer clicked over 66,000 miles in Glencoe
I filled up again when I got home
A total of 255 miles. I used 6.715 gallons (30.53 litres) of V-Power giving a fuel consumption of 37.97mpg
I filled up with Shell V-Power before I left home
The odometer clicked over 66,000 miles in Glencoe
I filled up again when I got home
A total of 255 miles. I used 6.715 gallons (30.53 litres) of V-Power giving a fuel consumption of 37.97mpg
Sorted… No parts required (kind of)
It’s been a few weeks now since I fitted the new alternator and battery. We all know these cars are voltage sensitive so I had hoped it would help with a fault code that was on the car when I purchased it. The dealer I bought the car from had cleared all codes before I arrived to view, I did a scan and it was clear, took it for a test drive and an DSTC/BRAKE warning came up on the dashboard. Back at his base I did another scan and it showed Brake Pressure Sensors faulty. The vendor claims it had never done that before but as soon as I lifted the bonnet he knew exactly where they were located. Hmm...
Once home I scanned with Vida and did a live data check, nothing untoward showed and I cleared the code. New genuine Volvo sensor costs around £250 each and cars with DSTC require two so I needed to be certain before committing to buy, I really didn’t feel the sensor(s) were faulty. The car would throw the fault most but not every time it was driven, there was no pattern to what was causing the fault to appear. I flushed the brake fluid with the proper spec DOT4+ and with a new battery and alternator fitted I thought/hoped it would sort it out and for a few days everything was fine, however one evening I went out to collect SWMBO from an event she had attended, I was waiting outside with the engine running and not touching anything when the dashboard suddenly showed the DSTC/BRAKE fault again. Next day I decided to remove the connections to the pressure sensors and clean the contacts with Deoxit D5, once dried I did a recalibration on Vida and to date the fault has not appeared again.
When I went to fill up with petrol on my way to Glencoe my petrol cap retaining strap decided to part company. Once home an online search and £6.06 later two straps from eBay were winging their way to me. They arrived and it took a couple of minutes to fit one and the other will go into my parts bin. They are supplied with new metal pins but I decided to re-use the original plastic pins
Clocks go back on Sunday so winter is officially upon us therefore I decided to put the winter wheels/tyres on even though it's a toasty 13°C today.
Thor wheels with 225/45R17 Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance2 removed ready to be cleaned and stored.
Replaced with Mimas wheels with 205/55R16 Continental WinterContact TS 870.
I've not driven the car yet with the winter tyres so it will be interesting to see if there is any difference between 16"/17" on the rough roads around here. Both tyre sizes are the correct Volvo recommended size for my car and the overall diamater difference is minimal so speedo should be almost spot on
It’s been a few weeks now since I fitted the new alternator and battery. We all know these cars are voltage sensitive so I had hoped it would help with a fault code that was on the car when I purchased it. The dealer I bought the car from had cleared all codes before I arrived to view, I did a scan and it was clear, took it for a test drive and an DSTC/BRAKE warning came up on the dashboard. Back at his base I did another scan and it showed Brake Pressure Sensors faulty. The vendor claims it had never done that before but as soon as I lifted the bonnet he knew exactly where they were located. Hmm...
Once home I scanned with Vida and did a live data check, nothing untoward showed and I cleared the code. New genuine Volvo sensor costs around £250 each and cars with DSTC require two so I needed to be certain before committing to buy, I really didn’t feel the sensor(s) were faulty. The car would throw the fault most but not every time it was driven, there was no pattern to what was causing the fault to appear. I flushed the brake fluid with the proper spec DOT4+ and with a new battery and alternator fitted I thought/hoped it would sort it out and for a few days everything was fine, however one evening I went out to collect SWMBO from an event she had attended, I was waiting outside with the engine running and not touching anything when the dashboard suddenly showed the DSTC/BRAKE fault again. Next day I decided to remove the connections to the pressure sensors and clean the contacts with Deoxit D5, once dried I did a recalibration on Vida and to date the fault has not appeared again.
When I went to fill up with petrol on my way to Glencoe my petrol cap retaining strap decided to part company. Once home an online search and £6.06 later two straps from eBay were winging their way to me. They arrived and it took a couple of minutes to fit one and the other will go into my parts bin. They are supplied with new metal pins but I decided to re-use the original plastic pins
Clocks go back on Sunday so winter is officially upon us therefore I decided to put the winter wheels/tyres on even though it's a toasty 13°C today.
Thor wheels with 225/45R17 Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance2 removed ready to be cleaned and stored.
Replaced with Mimas wheels with 205/55R16 Continental WinterContact TS 870.
I've not driven the car yet with the winter tyres so it will be interesting to see if there is any difference between 16"/17" on the rough roads around here. Both tyre sizes are the correct Volvo recommended size for my car and the overall diamater difference is minimal so speedo should be almost spot on
The MOT for the V70 is due next February which would mean anytime from 21st January onwards it could be done. I decided that I would rather loose a few MOT months this year and have an October MOT next year avoiding having to worry in the middle of winter if anything was needing repaired.
A straight pass was issued and tester said it was the best V70 he had seen in years
A straight pass was issued and tester said it was the best V70 he had seen in years
@rm36house: Thank you, glad you're enjoying reading about the V70
The evening before I took the V70 for its MOT I was browsing Youtube when a video about Volvo brake vacuum pumps appeared on my home page that piqued my interest. I watched the video from start to finish and decided it was something I should investigate and out I went to the garage.
I followed the video instructions only to discover that my pump was not working. I removed the plug to the switch and checked for 12v but there was zero volts and further research took me to the 20 amp fuse (number 33) under the steering column which had blown so I fitted a 10 amp fuse and now had 12v at the switch, I plugged the switch back in only to have some smoke appear at the switch so removed the fuse and went for my MOT the next morning.
After the MOT I asked the tester how the brakes were and he said the readings were all very good. I then explained my finding from the night before and he said as the brakes are good then there is nothing to worry about but he also said knowing me I would sort it out.
I called my local Volvo dealership and they wanted £516 for a new pump which is made by Hella and has a Volvo/Hella sticker. After a lot of research and cross referencing numbers a new Hella pump was sourced for £90. New genuine Volvo switch is on its way from Sweden via another dealership so will need to wait on that arriving.
The new Hella pump has arrived today, £426 saved over the Volvo dealer's price.
|https://thumbsnap.com/vT7DBycV[/url]
I decided to fit the pump to the car and my plan was to wait until the new switch arrived before replacing the fuse. However I got to thinking about the switch and how it works so I connected my Ohms meter to the two terminals and then blocked off the 2 ports where the vacuum hoses go into the switch. I then sucked on the bottom port where the pump would go onto the switch and created a vacuum, the switch clicked on and off numerous times.
I refitted the switch, put in a new 20A fuse, checked there was 12v at the plug and then plugged it in. The pump came to life and put vacuum into the brake servo. Pumping the pedal numerous times the pump cut in and out as it should and without any problems.
Once the new switch arrives from Sweden I’ll fit it and keep the old one as a spare.
The evening before I took the V70 for its MOT I was browsing Youtube when a video about Volvo brake vacuum pumps appeared on my home page that piqued my interest. I watched the video from start to finish and decided it was something I should investigate and out I went to the garage.
I followed the video instructions only to discover that my pump was not working. I removed the plug to the switch and checked for 12v but there was zero volts and further research took me to the 20 amp fuse (number 33) under the steering column which had blown so I fitted a 10 amp fuse and now had 12v at the switch, I plugged the switch back in only to have some smoke appear at the switch so removed the fuse and went for my MOT the next morning.
After the MOT I asked the tester how the brakes were and he said the readings were all very good. I then explained my finding from the night before and he said as the brakes are good then there is nothing to worry about but he also said knowing me I would sort it out.
I called my local Volvo dealership and they wanted £516 for a new pump which is made by Hella and has a Volvo/Hella sticker. After a lot of research and cross referencing numbers a new Hella pump was sourced for £90. New genuine Volvo switch is on its way from Sweden via another dealership so will need to wait on that arriving.
The new Hella pump has arrived today, £426 saved over the Volvo dealer's price.
|https://thumbsnap.com/vT7DBycV[/url]I decided to fit the pump to the car and my plan was to wait until the new switch arrived before replacing the fuse. However I got to thinking about the switch and how it works so I connected my Ohms meter to the two terminals and then blocked off the 2 ports where the vacuum hoses go into the switch. I then sucked on the bottom port where the pump would go onto the switch and created a vacuum, the switch clicked on and off numerous times.
I refitted the switch, put in a new 20A fuse, checked there was 12v at the plug and then plugged it in. The pump came to life and put vacuum into the brake servo. Pumping the pedal numerous times the pump cut in and out as it should and without any problems.
Once the new switch arrives from Sweden I’ll fit it and keep the old one as a spare.
When applying Gummi Pflege to my door seals in preparation for the winter a few weeks ago I noticed the driver door seal was starting to look its age so I ordered a new seal which it arrived today. 10 minutes later it was fitted and given a coat of Gummi Pflege
Old seal
New seal part#30779419
Fitted and conditioned with Gummi Pflege
Old seal
New seal part#30779419
Fitted and conditioned with Gummi Pflege
Lower engine mount torque rod
I wasn't sure what state the original mount was in, it wasn't giving me any problems but I have had to change this before on my XC90 and they are a common fault. So I decided to change mine today.
I was surprised when I removed the original and the rubber was still holding on the smaller bush (always this one that breaks), and it did feel like it was about to part company. When tested with the slightest pressure applied the bush rubber broke free from its holding. Perfect timing to change a well known weak part on P2 chassis cars
I wasn't sure what state the original mount was in, it wasn't giving me any problems but I have had to change this before on my XC90 and they are a common fault. So I decided to change mine today.
I was surprised when I removed the original and the rubber was still holding on the smaller bush (always this one that breaks), and it did feel like it was about to part company. When tested with the slightest pressure applied the bush rubber broke free from its holding. Perfect timing to change a well known weak part on P2 chassis cars
Not a good news day today...
When I changed the torque rod a couple of weeks ago I noticed undertray was covered in oil. Looking around I saw the bottom of the turbo was covered in oil, I wiped it dry and took the car for a drive, sure enough there was more oil leaking when I returned. The turbo drain on these cars are prone to leaking at the seal but mine was dry, the oil inlet feed banjo bolt was also dry so that is as much as I know about turbos and decided to book the car into a turbo specialist for further inspection.
I dropped the car into the specialist this morning and just had a call to tell me the thrust collar bearing on the cold side is leaking and needs rebuilt. I as told I could have left it for a while without doing any harm but the leak would just get worse. He was surprised that this was the cause as he thought it might have been an intercooler problem. The car won't be ready until the end of the week.
When I changed the torque rod a couple of weeks ago I noticed undertray was covered in oil. Looking around I saw the bottom of the turbo was covered in oil, I wiped it dry and took the car for a drive, sure enough there was more oil leaking when I returned. The turbo drain on these cars are prone to leaking at the seal but mine was dry, the oil inlet feed banjo bolt was also dry so that is as much as I know about turbos and decided to book the car into a turbo specialist for further inspection.
I dropped the car into the specialist this morning and just had a call to tell me the thrust collar bearing on the cold side is leaking and needs rebuilt. I as told I could have left it for a while without doing any harm but the leak would just get worse. He was surprised that this was the cause as he thought it might have been an intercooler problem. The car won't be ready until the end of the week.
One of my favourite threads, keep it up!
Not great that the turbo needs repair, but it doesn’t hurt so much when you are spending on such a pristine example.
Cheers!
Not great that the turbo needs repair, but it doesn’t hurt so much when you are spending on such a pristine example.
Cheers!
Edited by paulnb on Monday 27th November 23:54
Edited by paulnb on Monday 27th November 23:55
Edited by paulnb on Monday 27th November 23:56
I had a 2.4t V70 and there was always oil under the turbo, nothing serious, it just wept all the time. I read online its from the seal which goes onto the turbo and no matter how much I tightened it, it always wept. Some people wrapped some inner tube and replaced the seal with limited success. There is always a bit of oil in the turbo / intake system so it would always find its way out eventually.
@paulnb
Glad you're enjoying the thread, thank you for your kind reply. No it's not ideal with the turbo but al least it was caught in time and no other damage caused
@Willber
If it was just a slight misting I could have lived with that but I had the undertray off a few weeks previously and it was dry, this time it was covered in oil so more than normal and would only get worse the longer it was left
Glad you're enjoying the thread, thank you for your kind reply. No it's not ideal with the turbo but al least it was caught in time and no other damage caused
@Willber
If it was just a slight misting I could have lived with that but I had the undertray off a few weeks previously and it was dry, this time it was covered in oil so more than normal and would only get worse the longer it was left
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