Mk2 Escort Rally Car for the road (all costs recorded)
Discussion
I wondered who'd bought that engine! Well done. The noise when you lift off will be immense!!
I've got a 2.0 Duratec with a dog box in mine. LHD and winged seats mean that its nearly impossible to see at junctions etc and its 110 decibels inside at almost any speed, so I wear a headset. 270bhp is enough for the Bilsteins, but I'm tempted to spend some money on tarmac Reigers.
Originally it had a straight cut quaife H pattern and an underpowered Zetec, so I suffer with upgraditis like you! Thankfully my shell is immaculate.
Good luck with the rest of the build, I'll be watching with interest.
I've got a 2.0 Duratec with a dog box in mine. LHD and winged seats mean that its nearly impossible to see at junctions etc and its 110 decibels inside at almost any speed, so I wear a headset. 270bhp is enough for the Bilsteins, but I'm tempted to spend some money on tarmac Reigers.
Originally it had a straight cut quaife H pattern and an underpowered Zetec, so I suffer with upgraditis like you! Thankfully my shell is immaculate.
Good luck with the rest of the build, I'll be watching with interest.
drakart said:
I wondered who'd bought that engine! Well done. The noise when you lift off will be immense!!
I've got a 2.0 Duratec with a dog box in mine. LHD and winged seats mean that its nearly impossible to see at junctions etc and its 110 decibels inside at almost any speed, so I wear a headset. 270bhp is enough for the Bilsteins, but I'm tempted to spend some money on tarmac Reigers.
Originally it had a straight cut quaife H pattern and an underpowered Zetec, so I suffer with upgraditis like you! Thankfully my shell is immaculate.
Good luck with the rest of the build, I'll be watching with interest.
Yep, some reigers would be great if the budget can stretch. I'm not sure what springs I'll run in the front now as the cossie boat anchor and all its ancillaries will be replaced with something significantly lighter!I've got a 2.0 Duratec with a dog box in mine. LHD and winged seats mean that its nearly impossible to see at junctions etc and its 110 decibels inside at almost any speed, so I wear a headset. 270bhp is enough for the Bilsteins, but I'm tempted to spend some money on tarmac Reigers.
Originally it had a straight cut quaife H pattern and an underpowered Zetec, so I suffer with upgraditis like you! Thankfully my shell is immaculate.
Good luck with the rest of the build, I'll be watching with interest.
braddo said:
Niponeoff said:
Does seem a bit low, but i'm relying on the information from the previous owner. it is still on the weber L8 though.
A 205 block 2wd engine is around 8k on ebay, all dependent on condition and spec of course. People seem to still like the original webers too.
205 block, 4wd head and 2wd manifold are supposed to be the best combination, outside of alloy and YBD blocks of course.
On the milly its an electronic distributor, running off the back of the oil pump.
Good luck with the sale. That's a neat looking solution for the dizzy A 205 block 2wd engine is around 8k on ebay, all dependent on condition and spec of course. People seem to still like the original webers too.
205 block, 4wd head and 2wd manifold are supposed to be the best combination, outside of alloy and YBD blocks of course.
On the milly its an electronic distributor, running off the back of the oil pump.
sheepdip said:
braddo said:
Niponeoff said:
Does seem a bit low, but i'm relying on the information from the previous owner. it is still on the weber L8 though.
A 205 block 2wd engine is around 8k on ebay, all dependent on condition and spec of course. People seem to still like the original webers too.
205 block, 4wd head and 2wd manifold are supposed to be the best combination, outside of alloy and YBD blocks of course.
On the milly its an electronic distributor, running off the back of the oil pump.
Good luck with the sale. That's a neat looking solution for the dizzy A 205 block 2wd engine is around 8k on ebay, all dependent on condition and spec of course. People seem to still like the original webers too.
205 block, 4wd head and 2wd manifold are supposed to be the best combination, outside of alloy and YBD blocks of course.
On the milly its an electronic distributor, running off the back of the oil pump.
Edited by Niponeoff on Thursday 6th April 16:40
Just bought this e46 M3 actuator so i can have DBW. This will negate the need for a throttle blip and give me better TC strategies. So I think I might keep the webers as they atomise better at high rpm being further down the inlet tract and directly in the air stream. The TPS is also attached to the throttle actuator so also solves another problem. I think a TPS on the pedalbox will be quite simple.
Bit of a saving over the aftermarket ones and the BMW actuator can be repaired.
Jenvey have been very helpful, so will keep their quote on the backburner for now. May still go for bodies, will be prefer a bit of input from Millingtons but they wont reply.
Bit of a saving over the aftermarket ones and the BMW actuator can be repaired.
Jenvey have been very helpful, so will keep their quote on the backburner for now. May still go for bodies, will be prefer a bit of input from Millingtons but they wont reply.
Niponeoff said:
Where did you get the dizzy trigger wheel from? Did you go coil on plug? Was thinking of fitting a crank trigger wheel but I don't have timing gear to set it up.
Trigger wheel off the net from I think someone like trigger wheels .com! Used a wasted spark set up with a coil pack. Timing up is simple. What is odd the series one Millington does not use vernier cam pullies, I had to add my own marks when changing the cam belt and also it uses a 6 bolt crank not a 9 like a cossie but I never had a problem. I did get a call once from an Irish chap who had one in his MK1 rally car and the flywheel broke loose!Edited by Niponeoff on Thursday 6th April 16:40
sheepdip said:
Niponeoff said:
Where did you get the dizzy trigger wheel from? Did you go coil on plug? Was thinking of fitting a crank trigger wheel but I don't have timing gear to set it up.
Trigger wheel off the net from I think someone like trigger wheels .com! Used a wasted spark set up with a coil pack. Timing up is simple. What is odd the series one Millington does not use vernier cam pullies, I had to add my own marks when changing the cam belt and also it uses a 6 bolt crank not a 9 like a cossie but I never had a problem. I did get a call once from an Irish chap who had one in his MK1 rally car and the flywheel broke loose!Edited by Niponeoff on Thursday 6th April 16:40
Did you need to block off the dizzy drive from the oil pump. I know it's a pace as I've been in contact for an oil temp sensor but they said I need to make one.
I'm home in 3 weeks so hopefully get a fair bit done, just got to balance escort time with family time. But handy if I know exactly what I can do before I get there.
Caddyshack said:
The millington needs throttle bodies imo, the carbs will always be full of flat spots and running rich.
I don't know: choke them down and get them set up on a rolling road by someone who really knows what they are doing with side draughts. All you need is a time machine... 
944 Man said:
Caddyshack said:
The millington needs throttle bodies imo, the carbs will always be full of flat spots and running rich.
I don't know: choke them down and get them set up on a rolling road by someone who really knows what they are doing with side draughts. All you need is a time machine... DBW throttle will go in this location. First mock-up, but should go in once I get all the necessary clearances. Might be able to pickup the top bolt in the engine mount too.
Car is now completely stripped, ready for re-dipping. First stage will be paint removal and back for repairs, before final e-coat.
Will be dry built before then though and new loom trial fitted.
Everything came off fairly easily, just one bolt in the cross member needed a bit of heat to remove.
My old boy was over visiting so I put him to work stripping the fuel system
Will be dry built before then though and new loom trial fitted.
Everything came off fairly easily, just one bolt in the cross member needed a bit of heat to remove.
My old boy was over visiting so I put him to work stripping the fuel system
Just looking at my trigger wheel setup.
I've seen the sensor fitted at 3 o'clock on another S1, so that will do as I have those bolt holes. (Not my engine, just the example, though think I will use 2 bolt holes:
Anyone got an idea of which tooth I remove? I don't suppose it matters too much, as I can set it up in the ECU, but I'm sure there is a preference or window where it's best/recommended?
My trigger wheel will be a bit bigger I think, once I get home again to measure up.
I've seen the sensor fitted at 3 o'clock on another S1, so that will do as I have those bolt holes. (Not my engine, just the example, though think I will use 2 bolt holes:
Anyone got an idea of which tooth I remove? I don't suppose it matters too much, as I can set it up in the ECU, but I'm sure there is a preference or window where it's best/recommended?
My trigger wheel will be a bit bigger I think, once I get home again to measure up.
Niponeoff said:
Car is now completely stripped, ready for re-dipping. First stage will be paint removal and back for repairs, before final e-coat.
Will be dry built before then though and new loom trial fitted.
This looks like a great project and I'm sure the end result will be a fantastic bit of kit.Will be dry built before then though and new loom trial fitted.
Interested to know what the process is for dipping a shell that has a cage already fitted, as I've got an ongoing project at the moment that I'll need to get re-dipped because the previous owner had stored the shell poorly and it's covered in surface rust. Do you need to ensure that all the cage tubes are sealed to prevent acid ingress, or do you need to do the opposite and provide suitable drainage points in each tube? When e-coating, do all captive nuts/threaded mounts need a bolt inserting or do you clean the threads post dipping with a tap?
Edited by dhdev on Wednesday 24th May 14:34
dhdev said:
Niponeoff said:
Car is now completely stripped, ready for re-dipping. First stage will be paint removal and back for repairs, before final e-coat.
Will be dry built before then though and new loom trial fitted.
This looks like a great project and I'm sure the end result will be a fantastic bit of kit.Will be dry built before then though and new loom trial fitted.
Interested to know what the process is for dipping a shell that has a cage already fitted, as I've got an ongoing project at the moment that I'll need to get re-dipped because the previous owner had stored the shell poorly and it's covered in surface rust. Do you need to ensure that all the cage tubes are sealed to prevent acid ingress, or do you need to do the opposite and provide suitable drainage points in each tube? When e-coating, do all captive nuts/threaded mounts need a bolt inserting or do you clean the threads post dipping with a tap?
Edited by dhdev on Wednesday 24th May 14:34
The other problem was acid leeching out, probably from the cage onto the floor. I think the acid pooled in the corner boxes as each cage corner is rotted out, I'll see the full extent when it comes back.
Drainage is critical, they require a 6-8,mm hole in each end of the tube for the cage. I'll also be adding it to various liquid traps around the car, can always weld them back up or bung with a grommet.
It's actually in pretty good shape.
I did wonder about the threads as I'm planning to use lots of captive nuts where possible. Hopefully be such a thin coating like plating so will just coat the threads, but I'll find out.
Edited by Niponeoff on Wednesday 24th May 19:11
Fantastic project. Good call on going NA rather than turbo, much more suited to a mk2.
I’m doing something similar but on a much smaller budget! Group 4 shell with a 2.0 duratec and rocket box, I’m about £20k and it still needs paint.
I’d love a Millington (who wouldn’t?) but want an h-pattern manual, that’s an unusual combination.
I’m doing something similar but on a much smaller budget! Group 4 shell with a 2.0 duratec and rocket box, I’m about £20k and it still needs paint.
I’d love a Millington (who wouldn’t?) but want an h-pattern manual, that’s an unusual combination.
Some unexpected rust, but at least I know about it. Another problem is the floorplan is virtually completely sealed with the drain holes welded up, so they couldn't get rid of the acid after the dip. Not enough drainage in the cage either.
Exposed a few areas such as rear tail skin, heater bowl, various patches and C pillar to roof joint.
Cage corner boxes I knew about and getting end was butchered for the intercooler etc.
I think my plan will be to cut out the rust, weld a few bits on, but not all of it. Open up any cavities (sills, rails etc) so no chance of boiling in the acid. This will give me the best of both, total Immersion and e coating both sides of any cavity and 100% drainage, them I'll do the final welding and close them up and apply anti corrosion backfill.
You can see where the drain plugs have been welded, these will need cutting before reprocessing.
Exposed a few areas such as rear tail skin, heater bowl, various patches and C pillar to roof joint.
Cage corner boxes I knew about and getting end was butchered for the intercooler etc.
I think my plan will be to cut out the rust, weld a few bits on, but not all of it. Open up any cavities (sills, rails etc) so no chance of boiling in the acid. This will give me the best of both, total Immersion and e coating both sides of any cavity and 100% drainage, them I'll do the final welding and close them up and apply anti corrosion backfill.
You can see where the drain plugs have been welded, these will need cutting before reprocessing.
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