R33 GTR Restoration
Discussion
For those interested, my brother has been documenting parts of the process on youtube. As this is not my own page I don't think I'm breaking any PH rules by sharing a link, if so admin please feel free to remove the link
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzmGHoZFST1pnWM...
One of the things that I bought but then sold was the required hardware to install a BMW DCT conversion. Plans changed due to the extra costs/time and efforts to fit it and I simply wanted to get the car back onto the road asap, I would have had another 4 to 6 months added to the build time otherwise and wanted to avoid that.
I actually had a new R33 GTR gearbox that I sold to fund the DCT conversion. I managed to buy the same gearbox back from the buyer.
In the pictures below SR tried to match the finish off the old transfer case to the gearbox, otherwise there would be a significant contrast in their finish and something we wanted to avoid. SR gave both a quick going over with a wire brush to try matching the finish on both.
Fuel and brake line setup underneath
Tapped into the fuel line to install a fuel pressure sensor.
The car will be running a Syveces S7+ ecu, with a host of sensors to protect the engine and monitor everything. These include monitoring fuel and oil pressure, a drop in these and the car will shut itself off and hopefully prevent any terminal damage.
My final post for the day will cover my alloy wheels. Someone in Europe is reproducing the Nismo LMGT1 wheel, a timeless design for the GTR range and period correct for when the car was released. Genuine GTR fitment sets sell in excess of £10k these days and more than likely been rebuilt a few times using materials from the 90's. So being able to get a set that are LMGT1 inspired for alot less was a great opportunity.
I have gone for 19x10.5J ET12 which should fill the arches nicely and give the car the stance it deserves. Have an unlimited choice of colours thanks to powder coating, but for now these will stay as they are till I get them against the car. Have gone for black bolts to offer a contrast against everything else, these bolts are temporary as I'll have some black titanium bolts fitted before the wheels are mounted onto the car. For now the car is rolling around on some stock R34 GTR wheels that SR had lying around.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzmGHoZFST1pnWM...
One of the things that I bought but then sold was the required hardware to install a BMW DCT conversion. Plans changed due to the extra costs/time and efforts to fit it and I simply wanted to get the car back onto the road asap, I would have had another 4 to 6 months added to the build time otherwise and wanted to avoid that.
I actually had a new R33 GTR gearbox that I sold to fund the DCT conversion. I managed to buy the same gearbox back from the buyer.
In the pictures below SR tried to match the finish off the old transfer case to the gearbox, otherwise there would be a significant contrast in their finish and something we wanted to avoid. SR gave both a quick going over with a wire brush to try matching the finish on both.
Fuel and brake line setup underneath
Tapped into the fuel line to install a fuel pressure sensor.
The car will be running a Syveces S7+ ecu, with a host of sensors to protect the engine and monitor everything. These include monitoring fuel and oil pressure, a drop in these and the car will shut itself off and hopefully prevent any terminal damage.
My final post for the day will cover my alloy wheels. Someone in Europe is reproducing the Nismo LMGT1 wheel, a timeless design for the GTR range and period correct for when the car was released. Genuine GTR fitment sets sell in excess of £10k these days and more than likely been rebuilt a few times using materials from the 90's. So being able to get a set that are LMGT1 inspired for alot less was a great opportunity.
I have gone for 19x10.5J ET12 which should fill the arches nicely and give the car the stance it deserves. Have an unlimited choice of colours thanks to powder coating, but for now these will stay as they are till I get them against the car. Have gone for black bolts to offer a contrast against everything else, these bolts are temporary as I'll have some black titanium bolts fitted before the wheels are mounted onto the car. For now the car is rolling around on some stock R34 GTR wheels that SR had lying around.
Thanks all. The R34 wheels do look great on a R33, their offset is just to high and they sit tucked into the arches. I'm a massive fan of the OEM R33 GTR wheels but they are simply to small and poor offset again, I considered getting them remade in 19's at one point.
I have to stick to 19" wheels due to the size of the brakes, they don't clear any 18" wheel that we have tried.
The picture from the dodgy ECU wiring to an upside down R33 is a big jump ha. I'll post up some more of the strip down and rebuilding pictures.
A fun story about socket sets, when the car was stripped down a socket was found under the scuttle panel. Lord knows how I didn't hear the thing moving around.
I have to stick to 19" wheels due to the size of the brakes, they don't clear any 18" wheel that we have tried.
The picture from the dodgy ECU wiring to an upside down R33 is a big jump ha. I'll post up some more of the strip down and rebuilding pictures.
A fun story about socket sets, when the car was stripped down a socket was found under the scuttle panel. Lord knows how I didn't hear the thing moving around.
LactoseJoe said:
Amazing. I used to follow the sporadic progress on this on the SR autobodies social media page. It’s a fantastic restoration for sure. I’ve been wanting to do something like this with my R34 but I always get the impression I’ll be frightened to drive it after.
If you can do it I would, not only does it remove any issues with the shell but it also preserves it for the future. I have been told by Steve and others that I won't want to drive it, its why I haven't ruled out letting my kids mark the car somewhere so its no longer mint and I'll be worry free after!Got plenty of road trips that we want to do in it once it's back, first stop is Lake Como!
Since this is a safe place for me to nerd out abit on the finer details, I'll cover some areas of my engine.
I brought the IEE DBW kit for the RB26, helps to modernise the car while also helping out with clearing up some clutter in the engine bay and remove some things from under the plenum. This retains the OEM throttle bodies and uses a BMW actuator that is installed under the plenum to work it.
This removes the cable operation from the throttle bodies and makes it electric. Giving the ECU a number of options to manage the throttle, "flat" shifting, cruise control, limit boost if needed, 25% throttle open even if pushing the pedal all the way down etc.
The installation had to be removed and refitted when the engine arrived at SR. Took this opportunity to repaint some areas to make it look abit different, introduce some more black into the bay to keep things matching and allowing the throttle bodies to be highlighted in silver.
Since I installed this we could get rid of the OEM mounting points that are on the Nismo inlet plenum. Giving a cleaner look to the plenum and making the bay nicer.
As we were powder coating this black, we decided to do the same to the other engine covers. I've got the HKS VCam Step 1 kit installed on the engine, introducing variable cam timing that is electronically controlled. In simple terms I say its like vtec but for an rb26.
The casting for the HKS cam cover is quite poor, its not a smooth finish. Not a problem if your applying a crinkle coat but since I was having a flat black coating done it had to be smoothened out.
Stock under the plenum, taken from here - https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467853-guide-r...
Mine now
|https://thumbsnap.com/uVRG2C1d[/url]
Nismo plenum, stock on top and mine below with the mounts shaved off
[url]
Before the bits around the throttle bodies were powder coated in black
|https://thumbsnap.com/A7STbfCr[/url]
After
[url]
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/bFq6M1S8.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/joM8LaAi" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/joM8LaAi.jpg)
Turbo side. Not mentioned the Nismo carbon fibre inlet pipe that goes to each turbo yet. The first of all the Nismo carbon for the build.
In the image you can also see the Tomei cast turbo manifolds, one of the only few aftermarket manifolds that are worth upgrading too. Most aftermarket ones are not cast and split at the seams, leaking and need to be welded up. Most people use stock items that are then ported out.
The turbos are HKS GT-III SS, rated to 300ps each. Not a turbo choice for top end power but should make it a good capable street car with quick response. Mated to Midori turbo outlets that will join the Mines Ti equal length downpipe, into a Ti decat followed by the Mines Ti R33 exhaust system.
I brought the IEE DBW kit for the RB26, helps to modernise the car while also helping out with clearing up some clutter in the engine bay and remove some things from under the plenum. This retains the OEM throttle bodies and uses a BMW actuator that is installed under the plenum to work it.
This removes the cable operation from the throttle bodies and makes it electric. Giving the ECU a number of options to manage the throttle, "flat" shifting, cruise control, limit boost if needed, 25% throttle open even if pushing the pedal all the way down etc.
The installation had to be removed and refitted when the engine arrived at SR. Took this opportunity to repaint some areas to make it look abit different, introduce some more black into the bay to keep things matching and allowing the throttle bodies to be highlighted in silver.
Since I installed this we could get rid of the OEM mounting points that are on the Nismo inlet plenum. Giving a cleaner look to the plenum and making the bay nicer.
As we were powder coating this black, we decided to do the same to the other engine covers. I've got the HKS VCam Step 1 kit installed on the engine, introducing variable cam timing that is electronically controlled. In simple terms I say its like vtec but for an rb26.
The casting for the HKS cam cover is quite poor, its not a smooth finish. Not a problem if your applying a crinkle coat but since I was having a flat black coating done it had to be smoothened out.
Stock under the plenum, taken from here - https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467853-guide-r...
Mine now
|https://thumbsnap.com/uVRG2C1d[/url]Nismo plenum, stock on top and mine below with the mounts shaved off
[url]Before the bits around the throttle bodies were powder coated in black
|https://thumbsnap.com/A7STbfCr[/url]After
[url]Turbo side. Not mentioned the Nismo carbon fibre inlet pipe that goes to each turbo yet. The first of all the Nismo carbon for the build.
In the image you can also see the Tomei cast turbo manifolds, one of the only few aftermarket manifolds that are worth upgrading too. Most aftermarket ones are not cast and split at the seams, leaking and need to be welded up. Most people use stock items that are then ported out.
The turbos are HKS GT-III SS, rated to 300ps each. Not a turbo choice for top end power but should make it a good capable street car with quick response. Mated to Midori turbo outlets that will join the Mines Ti equal length downpipe, into a Ti decat followed by the Mines Ti R33 exhaust system.
Edited by EmilA on Monday 11th September 15:02
Absolute filth, just had to pick my jaw off the floor. That engine looks absolutely stunning OP, amazing attention to detail.
I really do think a built RB26 is one of the best looking engines around, just something about it especially when you've ram raided the dream parts store.
Incidentally I'd never heard of the IEE DBW kit before, sounds very interesting, is that a fairly common mod?
I really do think a built RB26 is one of the best looking engines around, just something about it especially when you've ram raided the dream parts store.
Incidentally I'd never heard of the IEE DBW kit before, sounds very interesting, is that a fairly common mod?
C5_Steve said:
Absolute filth, just had to pick my jaw off the floor. That engine looks absolutely stunning OP, amazing attention to detail.
I really do think a built RB26 is one of the best looking engines around, just something about it especially when you've ram raided the dream parts store.
Incidentally I'd never heard of the IEE DBW kit before, sounds very interesting, is that a fairly common mod?
I do agree I love the way the RB26 looks, can't gel with the current trend to cover engines with plastic covers. Realised I never shared the engine with the painted bits bar the installed engine on the first pic. Sadly it's still not clear in these pics as the fuel rail is covering some of it, but at the same time it's doing the job as if they were silver you could spot them more easily.I really do think a built RB26 is one of the best looking engines around, just something about it especially when you've ram raided the dream parts store.
Incidentally I'd never heard of the IEE DBW kit before, sounds very interesting, is that a fairly common mod?
|https://thumbsnap.com/YmA29qSp[/url]
Coincidentally the engine cover colour was debated for a few weeks. I thought about a crinkle finish in various colours, maybe something green or dark brown, or a gloss multicoloured finish. In the end the decision was taken by me to stick with black but finish it in a gloss black keeping to an OEM+ themed engine bay. It's all complimented with the carbon in the bay.
The only real colour is on the PRP R35 coil kit. This is a more common mod these days to run more powerful coilpacks to give a stronger, better spark.
|https://thumbsnap.com/pQcEZNfX[/url]The IEE DBW kit isn't as common as it should be yet IMO but it's picking up steam. There are other kits out there that do the same function, another popular item is the Dahtone kit. Most GTR's tend to run a DBW when running a larger single throttle body inlet plenum.
IEE also do a range of other GTR specific items including titanium bolts/studs for the RB26. I've got 2 of the 3 kits fitted with the only one missing being the exhaust one as my turbos had already been fitted by then. The inlet plenum studs allow you to remove the plenum without having to remove everything else which is handy, and hopefully never be required to be put to use!
[url]Another before and after. My dad's R33 GTR had blitz BOV's. An iconic item for me and something that was a must have for this build. When I brought them I was buying used items as I was trying to save money, how things changed haha.
My front brake discs, using the tesco clubcard as a size reference. You can see why I have to run 19" wheels. The front brakes are an 8 pot setup!
Finishing this post with an image of all of the Nismo CF that I have installed within the engine bay. The airbox, air guide and twin pipe. I personally love this image.
[url]EmilA said:
If you can do it I would, not only does it remove any issues with the shell but it also preserves it for the future. I have been told by Steve and others that I won't want to drive it, its why I haven't ruled out letting my kids mark the car somewhere so its no longer mint and I'll be worry free after!
Got plenty of road trips that we want to do in it once it's back, first stop is Lake Como!
It’s on the cards. Just this week I retired the car from track duties (due to the value and rarity). I’d like the strut tops tended to at some point; they’re visually okay but you know they’re never really okay. Dare I ask what sort of ballpark figure something like this costs? I’m in Japan now, so my equivalent would be getting Garage Yoshida to do it. The car is to be sent back westward this year and I don’t want to increase the value of it prior to shipping. I believe Garage Yoshida would charge at least 30k - what level of detail that includes is beyond me. Got plenty of road trips that we want to do in it once it's back, first stop is Lake Como!
Lake Como is on the agenda for me too. I did it about 5 years ago in an IS200, then cut back up through Switzerland via Lugano - 10/10 amazing. Still, it’s making me anxious thinking about leaving something this beautiful around in random car parks.
LactoseJoe said:
It’s on the cards. Just this week I retired the car from track duties (due to the value and rarity). I’d like the strut tops tended to at some point; they’re visually okay but you know they’re never really okay. Dare I ask what sort of ballpark figure something like this costs? I’m in Japan now, so my equivalent would be getting Garage Yoshida to do it. The car is to be sent back westward this year and I don’t want to increase the value of it prior to shipping. I believe Garage Yoshida would charge at least 30k - what level of detail that includes is beyond me.
Lake Como is on the agenda for me too. I did it about 5 years ago in an IS200, then cut back up through Switzerland via Lugano - 10/10 amazing. Still, it’s making me anxious thinking about leaving something this beautiful around in random car parks.
Totally understand your POV regarding track work. Garage Yoshida are great at what they do, Yoshi and Steve talk alot and I would recommend them but with their BBL connection and other work I can imagine that they have a large waiting list. Lake Como is on the agenda for me too. I did it about 5 years ago in an IS200, then cut back up through Switzerland via Lugano - 10/10 amazing. Still, it’s making me anxious thinking about leaving something this beautiful around in random car parks.
Cost wise in Japan I'm unsure of what it would work out to be but once heard that someone had an engine bay refresh and it was around the figure that you said.
Garage Yoshida have started to reproduce strut top panels and associated items so a great buy. The tower itself is GTR specific which is
It's a tough one to estimate as quite often it depends on what is uncovered when the strip down begins. I'd highly suggest giving SR a message.
Update time. Car was due to have base map loaded up last week and start the running in procedure soon after.
Before the map was loaded the team at JM Imports noticed some metal dust around the crank pulley and upon further visual checks the pulley for the crank was not aligned with the other pulleys. The engine was cranked twice for a second at a time when it was installed hence the pulley rubbed against the cambelt cover.
Sadly this meant no base map was uploaded onto the car.
After various checks and removing the pulley off the engine, the solution was to simply add a washer behind the pulley. This has thankfully put everything back inline.
Least it saved belts being thrown off on the dyno etc. Unsure why this happened as everything was installed correctly. Could be a case that the crank has had some work done to it before, without removing it from the car I won't know and there is no need to remove the crank from the car. Crank looked fine during the initial checks.
Before the map was loaded the team at JM Imports noticed some metal dust around the crank pulley and upon further visual checks the pulley for the crank was not aligned with the other pulleys. The engine was cranked twice for a second at a time when it was installed hence the pulley rubbed against the cambelt cover.
Sadly this meant no base map was uploaded onto the car.
After various checks and removing the pulley off the engine, the solution was to simply add a washer behind the pulley. This has thankfully put everything back inline.
Least it saved belts being thrown off on the dyno etc. Unsure why this happened as everything was installed correctly. Could be a case that the crank has had some work done to it before, without removing it from the car I won't know and there is no need to remove the crank from the car. Crank looked fine during the initial checks.
DBW pedal all wired up now and the car is officially ready to get mapped. Sadly mapping still hasn't occurred due to reasons outside of my control. Hopefully early November now for when the mapper is back onsite.
In the mean time I've purchased a Wend Lab gauge to replace the clock. The link below gives information on the gauge but essentially it can display a number of readings taken from the ECU via CAN. Haven't gone for the 3 centre gauges as I want to keep the Nismo dials there, even if they are not as accurate compared to getting a CAN based reading from the ECU.
I also have a Toucan display to display other readings, this screen is abit dated looking IMO but has good functionality with the ability to have 12 different calibration settings if I want, lock the car/ECU down etc so a good feature to have.
Combining the two gauges I can have everything displayed now.
https://wend-lab.com/ & https://jti.uk.com/toucan/
In the mean time I've purchased a Wend Lab gauge to replace the clock. The link below gives information on the gauge but essentially it can display a number of readings taken from the ECU via CAN. Haven't gone for the 3 centre gauges as I want to keep the Nismo dials there, even if they are not as accurate compared to getting a CAN based reading from the ECU.
I also have a Toucan display to display other readings, this screen is abit dated looking IMO but has good functionality with the ability to have 12 different calibration settings if I want, lock the car/ECU down etc so a good feature to have.
Combining the two gauges I can have everything displayed now.
https://wend-lab.com/ & https://jti.uk.com/toucan/
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