Peugeot 205 quicktrio
Discussion
Hey guys, i'd like to introduce you to my 1.0 205, soon to be a quicktrio.
Let me fill you in on the story so far, sold my 2.0 16v Corrado when I decided to get something more trackable and less over complicated. Step forward a 1.0 170 pounds 205.
[picture of it in the daylight soon to come]
With this car i had many options. For a while i was obsessed with the euro rallye so decided to go looking for engines and after much hesitation and unfortunately much winding up of a certain ebay seller, a mate offered me a quicksilver engine, he had the intentions of using in his 205 but had decided to go the ax gt route instead.
From this I stripped the engine down and removed the head with the intention of doing some old school tuning and gas flowing the inlet and exhuast ports myself.
While I was doing this i decided to search for various types of carbs. I had my sights set on a single UK rallye weber but couldnt really find them as the parts market for 205 bits concerning carbs is a bit sparce in the uk. With my search for UK parts failed I looked over to france and found an inlet manifold for twin webers for relatively cheap. After the arrival of this part I redoubled my efforts to find some twin webers and success! A pair of twin 40's in great condition for a very good price.
With carbs and inlet acquired I put the finishing touches on the ports.
(before
(after)
Right now im just putting ideas together of what to do and where to go in terms of camshafts, brakes, suspension exhuast and interior.
If anyone wants to make some suggestion in terms of these things, id love your input.
Anyhow more pictures!
Comparison of the quicksilver inlet and thorttle body against the new 40's (according to various forums the 75bhp engine makes 85bhp with a change of manifold as the original is quite restrictive)
I really want to strip out the interior, but the seats are just too comfy, I want comfort but the idea of being thrown round corners on what can be considered lounge furniture scares me. I've decided to either go gti interior or 309 goodwood the big leather gear if I can find it.
Over christmas I broke my wrist so the entire project was brought to a halt, luckily its healed fairly well and I can do some steady work. I decided to get on with fitting the new drive shaft and getting the MOT problems done and a fresh ticket.
Unfortunately I destoryed the suspension balljoint and have to replace the entire lower arm.
f
k you lower arm.
Well guys thanks for looking and wish me luck on the rest of the build.
Let me fill you in on the story so far, sold my 2.0 16v Corrado when I decided to get something more trackable and less over complicated. Step forward a 1.0 170 pounds 205.
[picture of it in the daylight soon to come]
With this car i had many options. For a while i was obsessed with the euro rallye so decided to go looking for engines and after much hesitation and unfortunately much winding up of a certain ebay seller, a mate offered me a quicksilver engine, he had the intentions of using in his 205 but had decided to go the ax gt route instead.
From this I stripped the engine down and removed the head with the intention of doing some old school tuning and gas flowing the inlet and exhuast ports myself.
While I was doing this i decided to search for various types of carbs. I had my sights set on a single UK rallye weber but couldnt really find them as the parts market for 205 bits concerning carbs is a bit sparce in the uk. With my search for UK parts failed I looked over to france and found an inlet manifold for twin webers for relatively cheap. After the arrival of this part I redoubled my efforts to find some twin webers and success! A pair of twin 40's in great condition for a very good price.
With carbs and inlet acquired I put the finishing touches on the ports.
(before
(after)
Right now im just putting ideas together of what to do and where to go in terms of camshafts, brakes, suspension exhuast and interior.
If anyone wants to make some suggestion in terms of these things, id love your input.
Anyhow more pictures!
Comparison of the quicksilver inlet and thorttle body against the new 40's (according to various forums the 75bhp engine makes 85bhp with a change of manifold as the original is quite restrictive)
I really want to strip out the interior, but the seats are just too comfy, I want comfort but the idea of being thrown round corners on what can be considered lounge furniture scares me. I've decided to either go gti interior or 309 goodwood the big leather gear if I can find it.
Over christmas I broke my wrist so the entire project was brought to a halt, luckily its healed fairly well and I can do some steady work. I decided to get on with fitting the new drive shaft and getting the MOT problems done and a fresh ticket.
Unfortunately I destoryed the suspension balljoint and have to replace the entire lower arm.
f
k you lower arm.Well guys thanks for looking and wish me luck on the rest of the build.
Hey guys
Well it's time to update the thread with some new bits and bobs i have gotten.
Im pretty close to having everything i want, bar a gear linkage kit, bits and bobs to finish off the engine and maybe a nice cam if i can find the right one for use with carbs.
Front calipers from a 1.6 gti
Mintex pads
Brembo vented discs
New rear pipes
New track control arms, as i used a bearing seperator on the lower ball joints and wrecked one even though i didnt have to.
Group N engine mounts
Gearbox steady bar, smaller than it looks strangely.
Polybush kit for track control arms and front anti roll bar
Throttle linkage kit
160lb tarmac rally springs, wanted to keep the car standard ride height for added sleeper effect
Tubular manifold
With the new calipers I had trouble with wheel fitment, I knew for a fact that the larger discs and the size of the new calipers would foul the 13" wheels already on, thank god for PH classifieds. I found a good looking set for £120 with decent rubber on them, I was not struck on the red pots, but when seen in person they are striking, the guy I bought them off did all the painting himself and im sure on day i'll be sending him some rallye steels to sort out.
My old wheels compared to these new ones
The difference in thickness is striking as well.
When I bought the inlet manifold for the twin carbs, I had to source it from France. Unbeknownest to be and some friends the Euro rallye had a different head casting and the stud possitions were different, luckily the port spacing is the same bar a little bit of a bigger diametre.
I did not want to get rid of this manifold I'd gotten hold of that took me a while to find, so with some good advice and a friends help, I got some dowels machined for the stud holes that located from inlet to head. These dowels are needed as the stud diamtre on the head is 6mm and the inlet is about 8.2mm So these dowels allow the manifold to locate without letting it rock about.
While this machining was happening, I had my friend skim the head and the finish is incredible, can see your face in it and getting a good photo without the reflected light and flash ruining the picture was hard.
This skim was just over 1mm or 0.40". Im hoping that as this engine was fairly low compression before, the skim will not cause any valve to piston problems. Then again if worst comes to worst I can always pocket the pistons.
Well thasts it for this part of the build thread, loads of toys and lots of work to get done.
Oh and while i was writing this, one of my dogs watched me from my room in the dark, i took a picture just to show how spooky he was being.
Well it's time to update the thread with some new bits and bobs i have gotten.
Im pretty close to having everything i want, bar a gear linkage kit, bits and bobs to finish off the engine and maybe a nice cam if i can find the right one for use with carbs.
Front calipers from a 1.6 gti
Mintex pads
Brembo vented discs
New rear pipes
New track control arms, as i used a bearing seperator on the lower ball joints and wrecked one even though i didnt have to.
Group N engine mounts
Gearbox steady bar, smaller than it looks strangely.
Polybush kit for track control arms and front anti roll bar
Throttle linkage kit
160lb tarmac rally springs, wanted to keep the car standard ride height for added sleeper effect
Tubular manifold
With the new calipers I had trouble with wheel fitment, I knew for a fact that the larger discs and the size of the new calipers would foul the 13" wheels already on, thank god for PH classifieds. I found a good looking set for £120 with decent rubber on them, I was not struck on the red pots, but when seen in person they are striking, the guy I bought them off did all the painting himself and im sure on day i'll be sending him some rallye steels to sort out.
My old wheels compared to these new ones
The difference in thickness is striking as well.
When I bought the inlet manifold for the twin carbs, I had to source it from France. Unbeknownest to be and some friends the Euro rallye had a different head casting and the stud possitions were different, luckily the port spacing is the same bar a little bit of a bigger diametre.
I did not want to get rid of this manifold I'd gotten hold of that took me a while to find, so with some good advice and a friends help, I got some dowels machined for the stud holes that located from inlet to head. These dowels are needed as the stud diamtre on the head is 6mm and the inlet is about 8.2mm So these dowels allow the manifold to locate without letting it rock about.
While this machining was happening, I had my friend skim the head and the finish is incredible, can see your face in it and getting a good photo without the reflected light and flash ruining the picture was hard.
This skim was just over 1mm or 0.40". Im hoping that as this engine was fairly low compression before, the skim will not cause any valve to piston problems. Then again if worst comes to worst I can always pocket the pistons.
Well thasts it for this part of the build thread, loads of toys and lots of work to get done.
Oh and while i was writing this, one of my dogs watched me from my room in the dark, i took a picture just to show how spooky he was being.
Hey guys, time for another update.
My shocks arrived, second hand i know. They are KYB ultra SR. Standard ride height to compliment the tarmac rally springs.
They are a tiny bit rusty yes, but are in good working order, a comparison to the old gear coming off the back.
Today I managed to fit the new brake pipes, after spending a while freeing the unions.
Im still waiting for my solid rear mounts, these rubber squares are about ready.
With that done time to move onto the front. I went about trying the new alloy wheels for fit with the new wheel bolts I acquired
I then began by removing the old calipers.
This is a comparison between the pair
I then fitted the new discs pads and calipers.
Although this looks good it has all lead to one problem. The brake discs have major clearance issues.
Quick to the internet.
I have found out that the standard hubs I have will not take 1.6 gti discs as the depth is too great and they fould on the caliper carrier. However the 205 turbo diesel uses base hubs with 1.6 calipers and 1.9 discs. It turns out I had purchased 1.6 discs. Well, will have to wait till tomorrow, try and make up a bit of the money spent on this discs and get some standard 1.9 discs from an auto factors tomorrow.
Oh and while having a break between front and back I was viciously mauled.
Thanks to my mate uldis (PetrolSniffer) for his camera work and keeping me company through the day. Oh and for saving my life Vs that evil pooch.
My shocks arrived, second hand i know. They are KYB ultra SR. Standard ride height to compliment the tarmac rally springs.
They are a tiny bit rusty yes, but are in good working order, a comparison to the old gear coming off the back.
Today I managed to fit the new brake pipes, after spending a while freeing the unions.
Im still waiting for my solid rear mounts, these rubber squares are about ready.
With that done time to move onto the front. I went about trying the new alloy wheels for fit with the new wheel bolts I acquired
I then began by removing the old calipers.
This is a comparison between the pair
I then fitted the new discs pads and calipers.
Although this looks good it has all lead to one problem. The brake discs have major clearance issues.
Quick to the internet.
I have found out that the standard hubs I have will not take 1.6 gti discs as the depth is too great and they fould on the caliper carrier. However the 205 turbo diesel uses base hubs with 1.6 calipers and 1.9 discs. It turns out I had purchased 1.6 discs. Well, will have to wait till tomorrow, try and make up a bit of the money spent on this discs and get some standard 1.9 discs from an auto factors tomorrow.
Oh and while having a break between front and back I was viciously mauled.
Thanks to my mate uldis (PetrolSniffer) for his camera work and keeping me company through the day. Oh and for saving my life Vs that evil pooch.
Quick update.
Just got hold of some 1.9 discs.
As you can see the difference in the hub depth is quite noticable.
Even with that it looks close.
Short like i said. Will update later in the week. This will involve brake bleeding and new front suspension going in ready for MOT. Hopefully new rear mounts too when they arrive.
Just got hold of some 1.9 discs.
As you can see the difference in the hub depth is quite noticable.
Even with that it looks close.
Short like i said. Will update later in the week. This will involve brake bleeding and new front suspension going in ready for MOT. Hopefully new rear mounts too when they arrive.
Edited by MrBrightSi on Sunday 20th February 18:59
Edited by MrBrightSi on Monday 21st February 18:09
MrBrightSi said:
Thanks TEKNOPUG, but for the time being ive got all the toys i need. The rear beam is very very tempting, but after the hastle of getting the brake flexi's on I am not going to go near it.
No worries,You say that you are planning to fit solid beam mounts - do you mean the aluminium ones or the GrpN rubber ones? The GrpN ones drastically reduce LOO unless you are really brutal (or should I say, unless you deliberately provoke it). Solid mounts maybe a bit overkill, or at least, may compromise the sweet handling balance of the 205's. Suck it and see I guess. Depends what you intend to use it for.
Hey guys, decided it was time for an update.
Today I did the front suspension. It was a pig haha. I also did the track control arm bushing and have put included some pics which will also double as a guide for other people. I have to admit I was a bit confused about how to do it but once I had gotten stuck in it was simple.
Out with the old struts and springs.
Left a big gap as i had to remove the hub carrier as well. The struts were so stuck in there was no simple way of doing it while insitu.
So glad I invested in a bench vice.
Time to sort the new springs and shocks
Ok time for the polybushes. The standard bushes in the track control arm are in half for the anti roll bar side and a solid one in the subframe side. I didnt realise this, so for the anti roll bar side I ended up drilling out the rubber to find that the bushes sit in a metal race. The next one i just used a chisel and brought the shoulder away from the arm, from this you can get the chisel inside and smack the other side out easily. For the Smaller one piece bush I used a pair of sockets, one large enough to fit round and hold onto the track control arm and the other small enough to fit the centre pipe. With the two sockets in place I used my new trusty vice to squash the bush out.
You can see how the anti roll bar bushes fit inside
All 3 bushes out
Putting the polybushes in was simple, locate one end tap it in, then the other one and just a few taps with a rubber mallet and ta-da.
As i was putting things back together i found the track rod ends were almost naff. Time for some replacements.
Everything rebuilt
Wheels on update finished.
Tomorrow im fitting the solid mounts and next weekend I'll be fitting a new master cylinder and bleeding the brakes for the MOT.
I attended RaceRetro last weekend and saw one very very nice 205 T16, It's nice to know that my cars windscreen is the same as the one fitted to this. Shame about everything else.
Today I did the front suspension. It was a pig haha. I also did the track control arm bushing and have put included some pics which will also double as a guide for other people. I have to admit I was a bit confused about how to do it but once I had gotten stuck in it was simple.
Out with the old struts and springs.
Left a big gap as i had to remove the hub carrier as well. The struts were so stuck in there was no simple way of doing it while insitu.
So glad I invested in a bench vice.
Time to sort the new springs and shocks
Ok time for the polybushes. The standard bushes in the track control arm are in half for the anti roll bar side and a solid one in the subframe side. I didnt realise this, so for the anti roll bar side I ended up drilling out the rubber to find that the bushes sit in a metal race. The next one i just used a chisel and brought the shoulder away from the arm, from this you can get the chisel inside and smack the other side out easily. For the Smaller one piece bush I used a pair of sockets, one large enough to fit round and hold onto the track control arm and the other small enough to fit the centre pipe. With the two sockets in place I used my new trusty vice to squash the bush out.
You can see how the anti roll bar bushes fit inside
All 3 bushes out
Putting the polybushes in was simple, locate one end tap it in, then the other one and just a few taps with a rubber mallet and ta-da.
As i was putting things back together i found the track rod ends were almost naff. Time for some replacements.
Everything rebuilt
Wheels on update finished.
Tomorrow im fitting the solid mounts and next weekend I'll be fitting a new master cylinder and bleeding the brakes for the MOT.
I attended RaceRetro last weekend and saw one very very nice 205 T16, It's nice to know that my cars windscreen is the same as the one fitted to this. Shame about everything else.
Quick update as promised.
Today's weather is ammazing. I am quite gutted about it being so nice and me having a car that needs brakes, MOT and insurance before I can enjoy it.
However todays progress:
New fuel cap fitted, cheap cheerful and does the job
Old rear beam mounts out, both were split and very very perished
New mounts in and looking nice
After all the suspension work the car will not rock side to side or any weight applied to front or back doesnt move it, the investment has finally paid off and this car is very very stiff and ready for road trips and track days.
Today's weather is ammazing. I am quite gutted about it being so nice and me having a car that needs brakes, MOT and insurance before I can enjoy it.
However todays progress:
New fuel cap fitted, cheap cheerful and does the job
Old rear beam mounts out, both were split and very very perished
New mounts in and looking nice
After all the suspension work the car will not rock side to side or any weight applied to front or back doesnt move it, the investment has finally paid off and this car is very very stiff and ready for road trips and track days.
New mastercylinder time guys.
Old one with the application of some needed heat gave up it's copper pipes.
New Vs Old
New one in with some fluid to stop it perishing on me.
Well that about wraps it up. This weekend I will be bleeding the brakes and driving her out the garage for the first airing since before christmas. I will be cleaning the car up and trying to get out some of the patina and see if there is still some sort of look to the paint.
Old one with the application of some needed heat gave up it's copper pipes.
New Vs Old
New one in with some fluid to stop it perishing on me.
Well that about wraps it up. This weekend I will be bleeding the brakes and driving her out the garage for the first airing since before christmas. I will be cleaning the car up and trying to get out some of the patina and see if there is still some sort of look to the paint.
Hey guys,
Long time no post I know. However times have changed. The sun has relit the flame of passion for this car and with the passing of the MOT and return of my cylinder head I feel the car is once again moving on.
First off, the refurbed head. I didn't get a photo of the new stem seals and reseated valves but we've all seen them. So here is a picture of the injector blanks fitted.
Refitting the head was simple. Locating the head dowels, then replacing the rockers making sure they're seated right. Like so:
Then using a torque wrench, the head bolts were tightened from finger tight to 20nm. Then using this guy a futher 240 degrees was added.
Now the engine is timed up it's time for some creativity.
Firstly the rocker cover was completely sanded down and mirror finished with a dremel. I didnt particularly like this but it was at the time a lot better than the rusted mess it was.
From this I decided to appreciate what a great french hatch I have by treating the rocker cover to a dab of engine paint (very poorly I might add)
With a new cambelt to hand I proceded to time the engine.
By lining up two locking points on both cam pulley and flywheel you can then place the cambelt and it will allign properly. From this the valve clearances can be set.
So for now things are gearing up for the acctual engine swap.
Before that happens, the engine top mounting braket has to be cut back and ground flat as there are 2 boses on the underside.
My mate has brought round an old XS engine, the wierd thing is, its a TU engine but has a short top engine mounting bracket compared to the one in the Trio.
Long time no post I know. However times have changed. The sun has relit the flame of passion for this car and with the passing of the MOT and return of my cylinder head I feel the car is once again moving on.
First off, the refurbed head. I didn't get a photo of the new stem seals and reseated valves but we've all seen them. So here is a picture of the injector blanks fitted.
Refitting the head was simple. Locating the head dowels, then replacing the rockers making sure they're seated right. Like so:
Then using a torque wrench, the head bolts were tightened from finger tight to 20nm. Then using this guy a futher 240 degrees was added.
Now the engine is timed up it's time for some creativity.
Firstly the rocker cover was completely sanded down and mirror finished with a dremel. I didnt particularly like this but it was at the time a lot better than the rusted mess it was.
From this I decided to appreciate what a great french hatch I have by treating the rocker cover to a dab of engine paint (very poorly I might add)
With a new cambelt to hand I proceded to time the engine.
By lining up two locking points on both cam pulley and flywheel you can then place the cambelt and it will allign properly. From this the valve clearances can be set.
So for now things are gearing up for the acctual engine swap.
Before that happens, the engine top mounting braket has to be cut back and ground flat as there are 2 boses on the underside.
My mate has brought round an old XS engine, the wierd thing is, its a TU engine but has a short top engine mounting bracket compared to the one in the Trio.
;)MrBrightSi said:
Hey guys,
My mate has brought round an old XS engine, the wierd thing is, its a TU engine but has a short top engine mounting bracket compared to the one in the Trio.
Maybe from an ax Gt then? Same engine but I remember the mount being slightly different. Would also be a better bottom end to use as its lighter than the quicksilver block by about 25kgsMy mate has brought round an old XS engine, the wierd thing is, its a TU engine but has a short top engine mounting bracket compared to the one in the Trio.
Hey guys.
Long time no post. This is a big one.
Finally the work is almost at an end, the long list of things to do is done, bar an exhaust and some minor fettling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55_gJ4ecNbE
As you can see, the exhaust is seriously needed. I need to tune the carbs and alter the timing a tad.
Heres how I did it:
Firstly i purchased this engine crane. £130 pounds and luckily it folds away, I borrowed a friends ballance bar to help with the job too.
I prepared the engine for removal in the garage. This included removing carbs, drive shafts, removed the disc brakes and used the old wheel bolts. Quick tip as well, if you're removing both drive shafts, on the passenger side, place a roll of cardboard or something inside the splined hole that fits, the diff will stay the right way up.
Removed the distributor and made sure I scribed which way it was round.
These L bolts from the drivers side drive shaft are dreadfully important so they were kept safe. The Nuts are m7, which are quite awkward to get hold of on bankholidays, so try to keep hold of them.
A quick look at the might carb, there was a water feed into the manifold. I figured that I did not need it with the new manifold, so I cut the threads of a smooth shanked bolt and with the application of some liquid gasket and jubilee clip I sealed it up.
Well after all this was done, the car was wheeled onto the pad and the engine was removed. Very hard to do alone and I had to tilt the engine nearly on its side with the gearbox to the floor to avoid the battery tray which acts as the gearbox mount, ballance bars are the greatest thing for this job can't stress that enough.
From this I split the bellhousing and engine.
With the engine still on the stand, i went about fitting the distributor and coil housing. I had to alter the engine, some part of the injection mountings on the head were in the way.
I swapped the thermostat over, i removed the pipe fitting and thermostat from the housing of the new engine and placed in the old one as it had fewer water take offs.
After this came time for some serious work, the engine mount had to be altered to fit next to the new inlet. This ment cutting one of the studs holes and a good chunk of the mount away. I did this slowly and got it very close, the boses on the bottom of the stud holes in the mount then needed to be ground down to stop as much rocking at that point as possible.
Unfortunately the next round of work was without pictures.
I hooked up the gearbox, lined up the clutch and got the engine ready to fit, I picked the old engine clean of things I needed, mainly studs.
Then came the big day for fitting the engine. I didn't get chance to take many photos with the ammount of hastle and fear I was under.
I had previously fitted the new group N mounts, I had to have the lower fork torque react donought mount machined to fit as it was too large.
Here you go guys, finally in.
Fitted the gearbox stabiliser.
Inlet manifold was fitted
As you can see I finished those semi washers for the euro inlet, I will refine them over time.
I got the linkage fitted to the carb
I finally got the carbs, trumpets and linkage all fitted to the engine. As you can see i used an inline filter after the fuel pump, it now has one on vacuum and one under pressure.
Well, after all the engine bay faffing, I decided to move into the cabin. I replaced the clutch cable which was a complete pain! I ended up removing the lower part of the dash and a foam sound barrier that surrounds where the cable enters the bulkhead.
I then turned my attention to the throttle pedal. The new throttle cable wouldn't fit the old plastic piece attacted the the pedal so i removed that and swaped it for a pedal block in the kit.
To do this I ground the pedal square so the grub screw would hold better.
So as you can see things have almost been completed.
Wiring, pipework were completed just before the youtube video. The amplifier plate on the dizzy needed replacing which was a complete anticlimax as I would of had it running a day prior to the video.
In the next post I'll fit the new exhaust and hopefully tune up the carbs and get a better tune on a video.
Long time no post. This is a big one.
Finally the work is almost at an end, the long list of things to do is done, bar an exhaust and some minor fettling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55_gJ4ecNbE
As you can see, the exhaust is seriously needed. I need to tune the carbs and alter the timing a tad.
Heres how I did it:
Firstly i purchased this engine crane. £130 pounds and luckily it folds away, I borrowed a friends ballance bar to help with the job too.
I prepared the engine for removal in the garage. This included removing carbs, drive shafts, removed the disc brakes and used the old wheel bolts. Quick tip as well, if you're removing both drive shafts, on the passenger side, place a roll of cardboard or something inside the splined hole that fits, the diff will stay the right way up.
Removed the distributor and made sure I scribed which way it was round.
These L bolts from the drivers side drive shaft are dreadfully important so they were kept safe. The Nuts are m7, which are quite awkward to get hold of on bankholidays, so try to keep hold of them.
A quick look at the might carb, there was a water feed into the manifold. I figured that I did not need it with the new manifold, so I cut the threads of a smooth shanked bolt and with the application of some liquid gasket and jubilee clip I sealed it up.
Well after all this was done, the car was wheeled onto the pad and the engine was removed. Very hard to do alone and I had to tilt the engine nearly on its side with the gearbox to the floor to avoid the battery tray which acts as the gearbox mount, ballance bars are the greatest thing for this job can't stress that enough.
From this I split the bellhousing and engine.
With the engine still on the stand, i went about fitting the distributor and coil housing. I had to alter the engine, some part of the injection mountings on the head were in the way.
I swapped the thermostat over, i removed the pipe fitting and thermostat from the housing of the new engine and placed in the old one as it had fewer water take offs.
After this came time for some serious work, the engine mount had to be altered to fit next to the new inlet. This ment cutting one of the studs holes and a good chunk of the mount away. I did this slowly and got it very close, the boses on the bottom of the stud holes in the mount then needed to be ground down to stop as much rocking at that point as possible.
Unfortunately the next round of work was without pictures.
I hooked up the gearbox, lined up the clutch and got the engine ready to fit, I picked the old engine clean of things I needed, mainly studs.
Then came the big day for fitting the engine. I didn't get chance to take many photos with the ammount of hastle and fear I was under.
I had previously fitted the new group N mounts, I had to have the lower fork torque react donought mount machined to fit as it was too large.
Here you go guys, finally in.
Fitted the gearbox stabiliser.
Inlet manifold was fitted
As you can see I finished those semi washers for the euro inlet, I will refine them over time.
I got the linkage fitted to the carb
I finally got the carbs, trumpets and linkage all fitted to the engine. As you can see i used an inline filter after the fuel pump, it now has one on vacuum and one under pressure.
Well, after all the engine bay faffing, I decided to move into the cabin. I replaced the clutch cable which was a complete pain! I ended up removing the lower part of the dash and a foam sound barrier that surrounds where the cable enters the bulkhead.
I then turned my attention to the throttle pedal. The new throttle cable wouldn't fit the old plastic piece attacted the the pedal so i removed that and swaped it for a pedal block in the kit.
To do this I ground the pedal square so the grub screw would hold better.
So as you can see things have almost been completed.
Wiring, pipework were completed just before the youtube video. The amplifier plate on the dizzy needed replacing which was a complete anticlimax as I would of had it running a day prior to the video.
In the next post I'll fit the new exhaust and hopefully tune up the carbs and get a better tune on a video.
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