500+bhp Mk3 Fiesta Project

500+bhp Mk3 Fiesta Project

Author
Discussion

CTO

2,026 posts

141 months

Monday 22nd May 2017
quotequote all
The game.

Mgd_uk

204 posts

35 months

Monday 22nd May 2017
quotequote all
TonyRPH said:
The OP is taking so long to finish this project, I suspect he'll be starting the restoration process all over again before it's done spin

And apologies for the post biggrin
I reckon his Ferrari build has taken over slightly lol

twoblacklines

1,575 posts

92 months

Tuesday 23rd May 2017
quotequote all
Friend had a Fiesta Si 1.6 in aubergine back in 2002-2006 (memory is sketchy thanks to durrrrrrrgs). Always wanted one. Feel a bit slow now even with 2.0 zetec conversion.

RC1807

7,361 posts

99 months

Thursday 25th May 2017
quotequote all
Now the OP has stopped messing about with his F430, can we get back to a car some of us could afford, please?

Awesome-Asam

4 posts

10 months

Sunday 10th September 2017
quotequote all
mwstewart said:
AP Racing Caliper Inspection and Rebuild
Despite them looking reasonable I've stripped down both the front and rear calipers to ensure everything is ship shape. Nitromors was used to remove the original paint from the front CP5555s, and also the yellow 'AP Racing' logo on the rear CP7030s.

I hit problems with the CP5555 where the innermost of the two bridge bolts were rounded on both calipers. AP have used a low profile cap screw in this position to keep the bolt flush with the caliper face, but the trade-off for this cosmetic touch is reduced purchase when attempting to loosen the screw. In the end I welded on an old wheel bolt to aid removal.


I made this tool winch connects one of my wall air outlets to the caliper bleed screw port and allows me to remove the pistons using compressed air.


Calipers stripped. I'm going to replace all bolts, wear plates, and seals as a matter of course, and the pistons on an 'as required' basis. One CP7030 and two CP5555 pistons will be replaced due due to minor scoring and corrosion pitting near the external seal line. Overall everything was in good condition; I'm being picky as I don't want to take any chances here.

Only the CP5555 came with Anti-Knockback springs installed but I can easily retrofit to the CP7030 if required, although for now I will omit them and see how I get one in the first year of driving.

The following order is with AP and I'm informed it'll be ready for the end of Jan.

[u]Front - CP5555 (CP5555-814 to -817) Calipers[/u]
Piston Ø38.1 = CP2409-124 x 2
Seal Repair Kit = CP4519-CEJ
Pad Retainer Type = CP5555-126 x 4
Pad Retainer Bolt = CP3894-139 x 4
Wear Plates = CP5555-120 x 8
Fluid Pipe = CP5555-11 x 2

[u]Rear - CP7030 Calipers[/u]
Pad set = CP3345D38 x 1
Piston Ø34.9 = CP7030-108 x 2
Seal Repair Kit = CP4518-GK x 2
Wear Plates = CP7030-106 x 8
Fluid Pipe = CP7030-6 x 2
Bobbin Kit CP2494-595K12 x 2
RH Disc 278x16mm CP3770-1014CG4 x 1

In the mean time I carried on with the refurbishment and with all seals removed the caliper sections were blown through with brake cleaner, degreased, washed at 70 degrees, and then Etch Primed.


I experimented with a few colours before choosing something I was happy with. My intent was to match the grey anodising of the racing line of callipers (road calipers are usually black or red) and for that I used Ford Polar Grey, which was too light. I then decided I like the later green/gold AP used on the replacement for the CP5555 (same body but different construction bolts used) so I tried two of my favourite Jaguar colours from recent times; Winter Gold (foreground) which was too yellow, and then Cashmere Gold (background) which was perfect.


I've used the Halfords mixing service in the past and found the paint to be good, so that's what I've used here. For the 'AP Racing' recessed logos I'm using a model paint, and rather than use a brush which I figured would take too long, I purchased a set of syringes from a fishing tackle shop and my plan is to inject the paint to fill the recess.


My plan worked perfectly and the results are great. Here are the calipers in basecoat and with the logos infilled.


Cashmere Gold looks more like a grey here, but turns slightly gold once lacquer is applied.


I purchased a complete set of new 12.9 Cap Screws to rebuild/mount the brakes with, and these were etch primed and then zinc primed.


I am very happy with the overall look.

I'm now waiting for my order to arrive from AP. Once it arrives I make a start on cleaning out all caliper threads with a tap, cleaning the mounting surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad, and finally I will rebuild with the new seals, bridge pipes etc.

Handbrake Caliper Modifications
The Focus calipers are mounted further outboard on my car than they would be on a standard Focus, and that combined with the thicker KW struts means that the handbrake cable attachment point won't work. I cut off the original mount point and fabricated these extensions to move the attachment point to a new position whilst maintaining the same 85mm distance to the actuating lever.


To complete the job I welded the original attachment points to the end of the extensions.


I then resprayed the calipers to match the AP's, as I wasn't happy with the amount of different colours behind the rear wheels.
Hi,I would like to say, wow what a awesome job. Hats off. I too have Ap racing calipers that I'm looking at painting. I have a few questions. Did you use etch primer then primer over the top before applying your base coat? How much paint did you use? And do you know what paint you used for the logos? Many thanks.

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Awesome-Asam

4 posts

10 months

Sunday 10th September 2017
quotequote all
mwstewart said:
AP Racing Caliper Inspection and Rebuild
Despite them looking reasonable I've stripped down both the front and rear calipers to ensure everything is ship shape. Nitromors was used to remove the original paint from the front CP5555s, and also the yellow 'AP Racing' logo on the rear CP7030s.

I hit problems with the CP5555 where the innermost of the two bridge bolts were rounded on both calipers. AP have used a low profile cap screw in this position to keep the bolt flush with the caliper face, but the trade-off for this cosmetic touch is reduced purchase when attempting to loosen the screw. In the end I welded on an old wheel bolt to aid removal.


I made this tool winch connects one of my wall air outlets to the caliper bleed screw port and allows me to remove the pistons using compressed air.


Calipers stripped. I'm going to replace all bolts, wear plates, and seals as a matter of course, and the pistons on an 'as required' basis. One CP7030 and two CP5555 pistons will be replaced due due to minor scoring and corrosion pitting near the external seal line. Overall everything was in good condition; I'm being picky as I don't want to take any chances here.

Only the CP5555 came with Anti-Knockback springs installed but I can easily retrofit to the CP7030 if required, although for now I will omit them and see how I get one in the first year of driving.

The following order is with AP and I'm informed it'll be ready for the end of Jan.

[u]Front - CP5555 (CP5555-814 to -817) Calipers[/u]
Piston Ø38.1 = CP2409-124 x 2
Seal Repair Kit = CP4519-CEJ
Pad Retainer Type = CP5555-126 x 4
Pad Retainer Bolt = CP3894-139 x 4
Wear Plates = CP5555-120 x 8
Fluid Pipe = CP5555-11 x 2

[u]Rear - CP7030 Calipers[/u]
Pad set = CP3345D38 x 1
Piston Ø34.9 = CP7030-108 x 2
Seal Repair Kit = CP4518-GK x 2
Wear Plates = CP7030-106 x 8
Fluid Pipe = CP7030-6 x 2
Bobbin Kit CP2494-595K12 x 2
RH Disc 278x16mm CP3770-1014CG4 x 1

In the mean time I carried on with the refurbishment and with all seals removed the caliper sections were blown through with brake cleaner, degreased, washed at 70 degrees, and then Etch Primed.


I experimented with a few colours before choosing something I was happy with. My intent was to match the grey anodising of the racing line of callipers (road calipers are usually black or red) and for that I used Ford Polar Grey, which was too light. I then decided I like the later green/gold AP used on the replacement for the CP5555 (same body but different construction bolts used) so I tried two of my favourite Jaguar colours from recent times; Winter Gold (foreground) which was too yellow, and then Cashmere Gold (background) which was perfect.


I've used the Halfords mixing service in the past and found the paint to be good, so that's what I've used here. For the 'AP Racing' recessed logos I'm using a model paint, and rather than use a brush which I figured would take too long, I purchased a set of syringes from a fishing tackle shop and my plan is to inject the paint to fill the recess.


My plan worked perfectly and the results are great. Here are the calipers in basecoat and with the logos infilled.


Cashmere Gold looks more like a grey here, but turns slightly gold once lacquer is applied.


I purchased a complete set of new 12.9 Cap Screws to rebuild/mount the brakes with, and these were etch primed and then zinc primed.


I am very happy with the overall look.

I'm now waiting for my order to arrive from AP. Once it arrives I make a start on cleaning out all caliper threads with a tap, cleaning the mounting surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad, and finally I will rebuild with the new seals, bridge pipes etc.

Handbrake Caliper Modifications
The Focus calipers are mounted further outboard on my car than they would be on a standard Focus, and that combined with the thicker KW struts means that the handbrake cable attachment point won't work. I cut off the original mount point and fabricated these extensions to move the attachment point to a new position whilst maintaining the same 85mm distance to the actuating lever.


To complete the job I welded the original attachment points to the end of the extensions.


I then resprayed the calipers to match the AP's, as I wasn't happy with the amount of different colours behind the rear wheels.
Hi,I would like to say, wow what a awesome job. Hats off. I too have Ap racing calipers that I'm looking at painting. I have a few questions. Did you use etch primer then primer over the top before applying your base coat? How much paint did you use? And do you know what paint you used for the logos? Many thanks.

sc0tt

15,633 posts

132 months

Sunday 10th September 2017
quotequote all
Awesome-Asam said:
Hi,I would like to say, wow what a awesome job. Hats off. I too have Ap racing calipers that I'm looking at painting. I have a few questions. Did you use etch primer then primer over the top before applying your base coat? How much paint did you use? And do you know what paint you used for the logos? Many thanks.
DO NOT DO THAT.

JakeT

2,075 posts

51 months

Sunday 10th September 2017
quotequote all

sc0tt

15,633 posts

132 months

Sunday 10th September 2017
quotequote all
JakeT said:
hehe

Awesome-Asam

4 posts

10 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
sc0tt said:
DO NOT DO THAT.
Do what exactly??

Chapppers

4,464 posts

122 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
Awesome-Asam said:
sc0tt said:
DO NOT DO THAT.
Do what exactly??
Where to start?

1) Quoted an entire post including pictures
2) Did it a second time
3) POSTED IN THIS THREAD WITHOUT YOUR NAME BEING MWSTEWART
4)

ajprice

14,803 posts

127 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all

mwstewart

Original Poster:

5,099 posts

119 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
Awesome-Asam said:
Hi,I would like to say, wow what a awesome job. Hats off. I too have Ap racing calipers that I'm looking at painting. I have a few questions. Did you use etch primer then primer over the top before applying your base coat? How much paint did you use? And do you know what paint you used for the logos? Many thanks.
Thank you. The yellow is Tamiya model paint (enamel). Yes - etch as the base.

mwstewart

Original Poster:

5,099 posts

119 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
I will finish this. The threat of mandated electric cars is horrifying so I shall press on later next year after getting married. I want to take this on a European road trip - that was always the goal.

RumbleOfThunder

2,519 posts

134 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
mwstewart said:
I will finish this. The threat of mandated electric cars is horrifying so I shall press on later next year after getting married. I want to take this on a European road trip - that was always the goal.
Awesome. Of all your projects this is the one that always intrigued me to most. Long live the Si!

Chapppers

4,464 posts

122 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
mwstewart said:
I will finish this. The threat of mandated electric cars is horrifying so I shall press on later next year after getting married. I want to take this on a European road trip - that was always the goal.
Or... maybe you could troll everyone and make this into an EV?

GrantD5

440 posts

19 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
Chapppers said:
Where to start?

1) Quoted an entire post including pictures
2) Did it a second time
3) POSTED IN THIS THREAD WITHOUT YOUR NAME BEING MWSTEWART
4)
Ironic because I am quoting this.

But someone give this man a pint.

Really grinds my tits

Shadow R1

3,148 posts

107 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
It's up the the op, but can I suggest that this thread is locked until an update is ready for it.

Otherwise we are going to spend the next 6\8\12 months, with people asking for progress on it.

JakeT

2,075 posts

51 months

Thursday 14th September 2017
quotequote all
mwstewart said:
I will finish this. The threat of mandated electric cars is horrifying so I shall press on later next year after getting married. I want to take this on a European road trip - that was always the goal.


Awesome-Asam

4 posts

10 months

Sunday 17th September 2017
quotequote all
mwstewart said:
Awesome-Asam said:
Hi,I would like to say, wow what a awesome job. Hats off. I too have Ap racing calipers that I'm looking at painting. I have a few questions. Did you use etch primer then primer over the top before applying your base coat? How much paint did you use? And do you know what paint you used for the logos? Many thanks.
Thank you. The yellow is Tamiya model paint (enamel). Yes - etch as the base.
Hi. How did you not get paint on the logos before you filled them with yellow paint. Did you mask the logos or something? Thanks in advance.