500+bhp Mk3 Fiesta Project
Discussion
keith2.2 said:
This thread reminds me that I've been following this car for 20 years 
It makes me want to revisit my H22 Civic build - but do it properly this time! Would love to catch up with you and this next time I'm back!
It has been a while mate It makes me want to revisit my H22 Civic build - but do it properly this time! Would love to catch up with you and this next time I'm back!
Do you still have the Civic?Good luck with training and the next race!
rainmasterb said:
Hi Mark, hope you’re well. Have you been to the 5 Bells lately?
Do you have a photo of the exterior of the car, or is it still in bits?
I can vividly remember a Max Power magazine with a bright red Fiesta RST on the cover that was really nicely done. I think it was by Power Engineering and had Escort Cosworth wheels and a Mondeo Estate spoiler grated to the rear hatch.
Oh and to caveat, that was way before Maxy P went Pornographic and my Mum banned it!
I'm good, thanks, the same to you. I haven't been there for over a year but that isn't out of choice - its a funny old year! I was a Fast Ford/Performance Ford reader but I see others have posted the pics; it looks good.Do you have a photo of the exterior of the car, or is it still in bits?
I can vividly remember a Max Power magazine with a bright red Fiesta RST on the cover that was really nicely done. I think it was by Power Engineering and had Escort Cosworth wheels and a Mondeo Estate spoiler grated to the rear hatch.
Oh and to caveat, that was way before Maxy P went Pornographic and my Mum banned it!
Here is a pic with the 15" version of the wheels that I now have:
I was fortune to pick up a new set whilst still available.
Now that I've figured out most of the engine bay plumbing I dropped the powertrain in order to ease access.
Plugs installed with a 0.7mm gap.
Finishing off the front brake lines: I have converted to spring clip type bulkhead fittings which I have in stainless. To convert the Ford chassis mounts I used a Dremel to cut off the lower leaf, drilled out the hole to 15mm, filed smooth, and then finished with POR15.
NSF wheelarch complete with new arch liner fittings and a liberal application of protective wax.
Plugs installed with a 0.7mm gap.
Finishing off the front brake lines: I have converted to spring clip type bulkhead fittings which I have in stainless. To convert the Ford chassis mounts I used a Dremel to cut off the lower leaf, drilled out the hole to 15mm, filed smooth, and then finished with POR15.
NSF wheelarch complete with new arch liner fittings and a liberal application of protective wax.
I don't post here often , but this is impressive , and follows the lines of every project , they grow . little pity guys don't first post , what would be the ultimate , so every one can trow their ideas in the pot and maybe save going back a few stages by times, but you got to admire the stamina , and when considering the travel time to work on it , if some had to travel out to the shed to the computer to follow the progress they would fail , might last a month
i understand a bit of admiration for the zetec as a major bit of progress for ford at the time , but i have absolutely no idea why guys [ when changing an engine from original ] don't move to the one that will provide the biggest benefit , as in the use of vvt , combine a vvt head with stroker kit , and the ability for smoother tq , this in a fwd would be more derivable and still have the ability to pull far more bhp easier , also mitigating the need for cams as a necessity as std are fairly decent at 500bhp .
to the guys posting about unlimited funds ,
i have seen people wasted serious money on projects you could say in 2 forms , 1 is wrong advice bad info , buying stuff then realizing that it needs x and y to make it work at more cost ,
2 But is this guy who works on with the mission and when improvements can be made he see's it worth going a step back , but what people don't see , the finished result is worth every penny and can be easily seen where as the other will kinda work but its short coming will always shine , also the second guy will have a load of parts to sell on .
you scared me for a while as i though with all the custom work you were still using the std rear axle , glad you chucked the std ecu , if you run an fly by wire throttle you can ditch you primitive cruise control , save complication and weight / clutter
pity you didn't see out the vr6 conversion , but its probably the only engine i truly hate , a complete boat anchor
run boost per gear or rpm and it will have manors and help the box
i understand a bit of admiration for the zetec as a major bit of progress for ford at the time , but i have absolutely no idea why guys [ when changing an engine from original ] don't move to the one that will provide the biggest benefit , as in the use of vvt , combine a vvt head with stroker kit , and the ability for smoother tq , this in a fwd would be more derivable and still have the ability to pull far more bhp easier , also mitigating the need for cams as a necessity as std are fairly decent at 500bhp .
to the guys posting about unlimited funds ,
i have seen people wasted serious money on projects you could say in 2 forms , 1 is wrong advice bad info , buying stuff then realizing that it needs x and y to make it work at more cost ,
2 But is this guy who works on with the mission and when improvements can be made he see's it worth going a step back , but what people don't see , the finished result is worth every penny and can be easily seen where as the other will kinda work but its short coming will always shine , also the second guy will have a load of parts to sell on .
you scared me for a while as i though with all the custom work you were still using the std rear axle , glad you chucked the std ecu , if you run an fly by wire throttle you can ditch you primitive cruise control , save complication and weight / clutter
pity you didn't see out the vr6 conversion , but its probably the only engine i truly hate , a complete boat anchor
run boost per gear or rpm and it will have manors and help the box
mwstewart said:
keith2.2 said:
This thread reminds me that I've been following this car for 20 years
It makes me want to revisit my H22 Civic build - but do it properly this time! Would love to catch up with you and this next time I'm back!
It has been a while mate It makes me want to revisit my H22 Civic build - but do it properly this time! Would love to catch up with you and this next time I'm back!
Do you still have the Civic?'maybe one day'
Thanks all.
The VR6 engine makes a nice sound but it and everything attached to it was just too heavy.
On this project I've chosen the standard Focus RS engine and gearbox mounts but with an uprated torque link - which is the mount which takes most of the load. This is for comfort as the car is more of a mini-GT, hence I don't want anti-lag. Boost per gear is on the cards as well as switchable maps.
The VR6 engine makes a nice sound but it and everything attached to it was just too heavy.
On this project I've chosen the standard Focus RS engine and gearbox mounts but with an uprated torque link - which is the mount which takes most of the load. This is for comfort as the car is more of a mini-GT, hence I don't want anti-lag. Boost per gear is on the cards as well as switchable maps.
Back on to brake plumbing: AN3 for the brakes and AN4 for the MC to ABS module.
Master cylinder and module plumbed in.
The rear lines follow the OEM route and I've wrapped them in nylon spiral wrap to keep them together.
In accordance to Colin Chapman's philosophy where possible fixings and fastening points serve more than one purpose.
Strap bracket fabricated to keep the OSF line as close to the chassis as possible in the area of the alternator.
Liberal application of wax to all of the common rust spots.
Master cylinder and module plumbed in.
The rear lines follow the OEM route and I've wrapped them in nylon spiral wrap to keep them together.
In accordance to Colin Chapman's philosophy where possible fixings and fastening points serve more than one purpose.
Strap bracket fabricated to keep the OSF line as close to the chassis as possible in the area of the alternator.
Liberal application of wax to all of the common rust spots.
Lord-Haggis said:
Where did you get your lines from? I'm about to do the same on one mine.
Both http://www.torques.co.uk and https://www.thinkauto.commwstewart said:
Lord-Haggis said:
Where did you get your lines from? I'm about to do the same on one mine.
Both http://www.torques.co.uk and https://www.thinkauto.com
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