I've just bought some poverty Pork…
Discussion
Merp said:
6k!!
Where did you find that! i know some good ones are coming in close to 10k now, but there is only 1 car on PH for less than 8k.
Cheapest 987 on auto trader is 7k, though, it's not a massive leap to haggle that down a bit Where did you find that! i know some good ones are coming in close to 10k now, but there is only 1 car on PH for less than 8k.
But I agree the majority are above £8/9k
Edited by wjb on Monday 4th March 11:38
tomtom said:
Here you go. 93,000 miles and needs a service and a couple of very small cosmetics but it was an absolute steal at a bit over £6k considering it has a very good mechanical history. Nothing to shout about, spec wise, although it does have heated seats. Oh, and it's atlas grey which is pretty cool.
Amazing. Congratulations!Atlas grey is a great colour.
Merp said:
6k!!
Where did you find that! i know some good ones are coming in close to 10k now, but there is only 1 car on PH for less than 8k.
I wouldn’t normally post the intricate details of a private used car purchase but since it’s a bit unusual... Where did you find that! i know some good ones are coming in close to 10k now, but there is only 1 car on PH for less than 8k.
It was a just under 7k asking and we ended up around 6.4 but with new rear tyres that he hadn’t fitted (so a few hundred quid there, hence the ‘just over 6k’...). I think I got lucky in that the seller needed it gone ASAP as he had another car coming and he lived 5 mins down the road from me so it was a quick trip to go and do a deal.
I’m taking it to RGA (who’ve looked after it for the last 4-5yrs) tomorrow for the service so if it gets the clean bill of health I expect then I’ll feel even better about it
d. Definitely not jealous.Bullet-Proof_Biscuit said:
There's always the replace with OE bearing & remove seals at the next clutch job to fix
In theory.In practice, geography means that would be a massive pain in the ass as well as very expensive anyway.
Then I've read that the likes of Hartech don't really recommend replacing it in situ. due to potential damage.
Of course I solved this problem by having an early 987 that already had a Hartech rebuild due to IMS failure. Unfortunately for me I bought the car that had a prang at some point in its past and would require something well into four figures to replace the rear arch that was rusting terribly.
Edited by Patrick Bateman on Monday 4th March 22:03
Patrick Bateman said:
In theory.
In practice, geography means that would be a massive pain in the ass as well as very expensive anyway.
Then I've read that the likes of Hartech don't really recommend replacing it in situ. due to potential damage.
Of course I solved this problem by having an early 987 that already had a Hartech rebuild due to IMS failure. Unfortunately for me I bought the car that had a prang at some point in its past and would require something well into four figures to replace the rear arch that was rusting terribly.
No pain when changing the clutch. At least for those of us capable, R&R with grease seal mod is a good fix imho, with an OE spec bearing less than £100, and £250 for the tools, I won't be complaining when I get round to it. In fact this is the reason resales are around £10k which suits meIn practice, geography means that would be a massive pain in the ass as well as very expensive anyway.
Then I've read that the likes of Hartech don't really recommend replacing it in situ. due to potential damage.
Of course I solved this problem by having an early 987 that already had a Hartech rebuild due to IMS failure. Unfortunately for me I bought the car that had a prang at some point in its past and would require something well into four figures to replace the rear arch that was rusting terribly.
Edited by Patrick Bateman on Monday 4th March 22:03
Bullet-Proof_Biscuit said:
No pain when changing the clutch. At least for those of us capable, R&R with grease seal mod is a good fix imho, with an OE spec bearing less than £100, and £250 for the tools, I won't be complaining when I get round to it. In fact this is the reason resales are around £10k which suits me
The point Hartech make is that the IMS shaft can't be supported when changing in situ.You are heaving around on a fairly delicate assembly. The oil pump drive is at the other end remember.
And then.... are you sure you can get it in straight?
They say the o ring groove in the shaft in the middle of the bearing is a weak point, can you r&r that without any stress to it?
Not worth the bother IMO when theres a thousand other things that could grenade on an old engine.
Just flip the seal off and check for play and forget it. Its all been blown WAAAAAAAY out of proportion.
This looks good but i dislike Meridian. Maybe i need to get over my hatred for a colour anything like beige gold.
2.7
2003
47000 miles
Litronics
8495
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
2.7
2003
47000 miles
Litronics
8495
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
was8v said:
The point Hartech make is that the IMS shaft can't be supported when changing in situ.
You are heaving around on a fairly delicate assembly. The oil pump drive is at the other end remember.
And then.... are you sure you can get it in straight?
They say the o ring groove in the shaft in the middle of the bearing is a weak point, can you r&r that without any stress to it?
Not worth the bother IMO when theres a thousand other things that could grenade on an old engine.
Just flip the seal off and check for play and forget it. Its all been blown WAAAAAAAY out of proportion.
Does your statement not apply to anyone who has replaced a wheel bearing ever? Ensure the pull & press operations are square to the bearing and the operation will go fine. Warm the engine up just before removal, and refit when it's still warm, freeze the bearing beforehand, nothing unusual here.You are heaving around on a fairly delicate assembly. The oil pump drive is at the other end remember.
And then.... are you sure you can get it in straight?
They say the o ring groove in the shaft in the middle of the bearing is a weak point, can you r&r that without any stress to it?
Not worth the bother IMO when theres a thousand other things that could grenade on an old engine.
Just flip the seal off and check for play and forget it. Its all been blown WAAAAAAAY out of proportion.
I expect some ham fisted amateurs have poorly installed a few in the past and galled up the housing etc, same goes for poor removal procedures snapping off the shaft at the o-ring groove, a new shaft comes with a new IMSB kit anyway, along with housing & revised oil seal.
By all means pay a few grand for someone to do it for you, I'll just be paying myself
Now you mention it I see some 'alignment plates' which hold the shaft square during R&R, I didn't think the deflection would affect things but more research needed.
Beers,
HH
Bullet-Proof_Biscuit said:
Does your statement not apply to anyone who has replaced a wheel bearing ever? Ensure the pull & press operations are square to the bearing and the operation will go fine. Warm the engine up just before removal, and refit when it's still warm, freeze the bearing beforehand, nothing unusual here.
I expect some ham fisted amateurs have poorly installed a few in the past and galled up the housing etc, same goes for poor removal procedures snapping off the shaft at the o-ring groove, a new shaft comes with a new IMSB kit anyway, along with housing & revised oil seal.
By all means pay a few grand for someone to do it for you, I'll just be paying myself
Now you mention it I see some 'alignment plates' which hold the shaft square during R&R, I didn't think the deflection would affect things but more research needed.
Beers,
HH
No, because the wheel bearing carrier is adequately supported. I expect some ham fisted amateurs have poorly installed a few in the past and galled up the housing etc, same goes for poor removal procedures snapping off the shaft at the o-ring groove, a new shaft comes with a new IMSB kit anyway, along with housing & revised oil seal.
By all means pay a few grand for someone to do it for you, I'll just be paying myself
Now you mention it I see some 'alignment plates' which hold the shaft square during R&R, I didn't think the deflection would affect things but more research needed.
Beers,
HH
The IMS shaft is "floating". When you remove the supporting cover and pull the old bearing out, you are pulling on the IMS shaft - what is stopping it pulling through the hole? When you push the new bearing in, what are you pushing the IMS shaft against?
There's quite a few had failure after bearing replacement. The truth is that its impossible to do it properly without the IMS shaft on the bench.
e.g. https://www.facebook.com/porscherepairservice/post...
Why on earth would anyone replace a perfectly good bearing with an unknown quantity and risk damage during r&r?
My bargain Boxster is in for a big service this week. It's not due for another few months but I thought I'd get it all done now so I know where I stand with it.
While it's away I've been thinking about upgrading the head unit to something a bit more modern; compared to the M5 it feels rather dated and CarPlay would be good. Has anyone fitted a modern double din unit to a 987 recently? What did you go for? How hard was it? etc...
While it's away I've been thinking about upgrading the head unit to something a bit more modern; compared to the M5 it feels rather dated and CarPlay would be good. Has anyone fitted a modern double din unit to a 987 recently? What did you go for? How hard was it? etc...
Big bills on the horizon I fear!
My 3.2 has an Mot in a months time and an month after that is off to the Nurburgring and Spa.
Driving around a multi story for half an hour highlighted a lot of squeaking from the rear, hopefully just new bushes needed. New Rear disks, currently no ABS or TC (apparently some sort of valve in the ABS system), a bit of wobble under high speed breaking from the front, 2 new 02 sensors, possibly some exhaust work and new rear Michelin’s!
Bugger..
On the plus side, a major service at OPC at just under £400 seems pretty good value, although can’t see if that includes belts and plugs as well.
Still love it.
My 3.2 has an Mot in a months time and an month after that is off to the Nurburgring and Spa.
Driving around a multi story for half an hour highlighted a lot of squeaking from the rear, hopefully just new bushes needed. New Rear disks, currently no ABS or TC (apparently some sort of valve in the ABS system), a bit of wobble under high speed breaking from the front, 2 new 02 sensors, possibly some exhaust work and new rear Michelin’s!
Bugger..
On the plus side, a major service at OPC at just under £400 seems pretty good value, although can’t see if that includes belts and plugs as well.
Still love it.
Mattygooner said:
Big bills on the horizon I fear!
My 3.2 has an Mot in a months time and an month after that is off to the Nurburgring and Spa.
Driving around a multi story for half an hour highlighted a lot of squeaking from the rear, hopefully just new bushes needed. New Rear disks, currently no ABS or TC (apparently some sort of valve in the ABS system), a bit of wobble under high speed breaking from the front, 2 new 02 sensors, possibly some exhaust work and new rear Michelin’s!
Bugger..
On the plus side, a major service at OPC at just under £400 seems pretty good value, although can’t see if that includes belts and plugs as well.
Still love it.
£400 for 40 quids worth of oil and a £5 filter good value? even if it includes £20 worth of spark plugs?My 3.2 has an Mot in a months time and an month after that is off to the Nurburgring and Spa.
Driving around a multi story for half an hour highlighted a lot of squeaking from the rear, hopefully just new bushes needed. New Rear disks, currently no ABS or TC (apparently some sort of valve in the ABS system), a bit of wobble under high speed breaking from the front, 2 new 02 sensors, possibly some exhaust work and new rear Michelin’s!
Bugger..
On the plus side, a major service at OPC at just under £400 seems pretty good value, although can’t see if that includes belts and plugs as well.
Still love it.
tomtom said:
My bargain Boxster is in for a big service this week. It's not due for another few months but I thought I'd get it all done now so I know where I stand with it.
While it's away I've been thinking about upgrading the head unit to something a bit more modern; compared to the M5 it feels rather dated and CarPlay would be good. Has anyone fitted a modern double din unit to a 987 recently? What did you go for? How hard was it? etc...
I fitted a Pioneer SPH-DA120 a few years ago, and I found it relatively easy, even though I am certainly not adept at this type of thing. It's the only mod I've made to the car, and I certainly wouldn't go back to the PCM now.While it's away I've been thinking about upgrading the head unit to something a bit more modern; compared to the M5 it feels rather dated and CarPlay would be good. Has anyone fitted a modern double din unit to a 987 recently? What did you go for? How hard was it? etc...
My car has Bose, so I did need the MOST adaptor, but it should be simpler still if you don't need to worry about that.
There is a good guide on Boxa.net IIRC.
was8v said:
£400 for 40 quids worth of oil and a £5 filter good value? even if it includes £20 worth of spark plugs?
Well, even the cheapest oil I can find would make it around 80quid and it’s not the value of the parts, it’s gaining access to these parts of the engine, it’s checking everything is in safe working order and it’s a stamp in the service book, as even descent indies are £100 per hour, it’s not that bad.anonymous said:
[redacted]
I agree. Apart from the Pioneer logo it is pretty much all screen, so look as unassuming as an aftermarket HU can. The CarPlay side of the OS seems to just rely on updates to the phone it is connected to, so it is as good as any current unit. The Pioneer AppRadio side of the OS is a bit of a mess, but I've never used it.The unit has been replaced by the 130 now, and that looks exactly the same but has a DAB tuner as well.
The only problem is that Android phones are not fully supported. Android Auto is available on the next model up (230), but this introduces a few more buttons, so doesn't look quite a neat as the 120/130.
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