I've just bought some poverty Pork…
Discussion
324SRR said:
Has it worn away or just gone all bobbly? On my clio 172 they were really bobbly and looked terrible. I bout a battery powered rotary clothes debobbler on the cheap and they looked a million times better. 
dai1983 said:
324SRR said:
Has it worn away or just gone all bobbly? On my clio 172 they were really bobbly and looked terrible. I bout a battery powered rotary clothes debobbler on the cheap and they looked a million times better. I was thinking a self adhesive Alcantara patch would be the cheapest solution to stop it getting worse.
Thanks
324SRR said:
The passenger seat is bobbly, so will receive some sort of shave. The drivers seat, whilst also bobbly has actually worn through.
I was thinking a self adhesive Alcantara patch would be the cheapest solution to stop it getting worse.
Thanks
Should be able to pick a decent pair of seats up cheap enough. I was thinking a self adhesive Alcantara patch would be the cheapest solution to stop it getting worse.
Thanks
324SRR said:
The passenger seat is bobbly, so will receive some sort of shave. The drivers seat, whilst also bobbly has actually worn through.
I was thinking a self adhesive Alcantara patch would be the cheapest solution to stop it getting worse.
Thanks
I think 997 and 987 seats will bolt straight inI was thinking a self adhesive Alcantara patch would be the cheapest solution to stop it getting worse.
Thanks
was8v said:
324SRR said:
The passenger seat is bobbly, so will receive some sort of shave. The drivers seat, whilst also bobbly has actually worn through.
I was thinking a self adhesive Alcantara patch would be the cheapest solution to stop it getting worse.
Thanks
I think 997 and 987 seats will bolt straight inI was thinking a self adhesive Alcantara patch would be the cheapest solution to stop it getting worse.
Thanks
I think it's legit. I "chatted" with the seller and everything checked out.
From the additional photos he sent, the bodywork appears a little rough (the rear arches are bubbling a little) but I guess that this is to be expected with the age, mileage and price. Perhaps a bargain for somebody...
From the additional photos he sent, the bodywork appears a little rough (the rear arches are bubbling a little) but I guess that this is to be expected with the age, mileage and price. Perhaps a bargain for somebody...
Would like to know more about 9X6 corrosion issues at 20years.
Coming from Switzerland where the climate is dry and most interesting cars live a sheltered life (literally) I just didn’t see it as an issue.
In our island nation, it’s a different story...
The MOT history of that car suggests it has seen little use over the last 5 years and from the advisories, there is an opportunity to spend a bit on it to bring it up to scratch but evidence of corrosion would kill off a lot of enthusiasm..
Coming from Switzerland where the climate is dry and most interesting cars live a sheltered life (literally) I just didn’t see it as an issue.
In our island nation, it’s a different story...
The MOT history of that car suggests it has seen little use over the last 5 years and from the advisories, there is an opportunity to spend a bit on it to bring it up to scratch but evidence of corrosion would kill off a lot of enthusiasm..
I think it was a manual.
With regards to the rust issue it is likely just due to crap sitting up in the arches. It seems quite common on the 996s but less so (anecdotally) on the 986s. Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever and old/flaking underseal, stonechips etc will all allow water and salt to eventually permeate the galvanisation. I would *guess* that this will now become a more common sight on the older watercooled cars (20 years is pretty good especially when you compare them to a smilarly aged BMW/Mercs)
My 21 year old car is pretty much rust free (one of the jack points is looking a bit tired) but I'm pretty anal about cleaning the inner arches and coating them with ACF50.
With regards to the rust issue it is likely just due to crap sitting up in the arches. It seems quite common on the 996s but less so (anecdotally) on the 986s. Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever and old/flaking underseal, stonechips etc will all allow water and salt to eventually permeate the galvanisation. I would *guess* that this will now become a more common sight on the older watercooled cars (20 years is pretty good especially when you compare them to a smilarly aged BMW/Mercs)
My 21 year old car is pretty much rust free (one of the jack points is looking a bit tired) but I'm pretty anal about cleaning the inner arches and coating them with ACF50.
They can weld in new metal...
If they are already bubbling on the outside, it will unfortunately mean that they are much worse on the inside. I think moisture gets in between the two layers (the inner and outer arch are kind of sandwiched together) and then they go from the inside out. It is why the "small rust bubble" you see mentioned in a car advert is never really a small rust bubble
If they are not yet bubbling and look okay on the inside, I'd either coat them with something like POR15 (it sticks brilliantly to underseal!) or just give them a regular smear of grease/ACF50.
If they are already bubbling on the outside, it will unfortunately mean that they are much worse on the inside. I think moisture gets in between the two layers (the inner and outer arch are kind of sandwiched together) and then they go from the inside out. It is why the "small rust bubble" you see mentioned in a car advert is never really a small rust bubble
If they are not yet bubbling and look okay on the inside, I'd either coat them with something like POR15 (it sticks brilliantly to underseal!) or just give them a regular smear of grease/ACF50.
LennyM1984 said:
My 21 year old car is pretty much rust free (one of the jack points is looking a bit tired) but I'm pretty anal about cleaning the inner arches and coating them with ACF50.
Have you removed the plastic spats ahead of the rear wheels, popped the plugs out and had a poke around?Perhaps an extreme example: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=124042 (WARNING: this is pretty horrific viewing....)
Mine wasn't so bad (no sign of this with the plastic spats on) but still, eugh, rust:
Ground back and treated
This was then POR15'd and the sill cavities liberally sprayed with inhibitor / cavity wax.
Underneath the cross brace, sills and jack points got the same treatment.
Edited by was8v on Wednesday 7th August 16:30
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