I've just bought some poverty Pork…

[Bullet-Proof_Biscuit]

The sump spacer kits are about 300£ from the likes of D911, shall be my first purchase when I get a croc soon

[Bullet-Proof_Biscuit]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Yes preferably a 3.4 with a borked engine for a semi DIY 3.9 build as discussed. (I'll sub out the short or long block build depending on my confidence on the day) I've realised there's a lot more engine parts on ebay.europe etc. Thoughts??

[edc]

Bullet-Proof_Biscuit said:

The sump spacer kits are about 300£ from the likes of D911, shall be my first purchase when I get a croc soon

Would you not want to spend £100 more to get a proper deeper sump with baffle?

[andy97]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

True, but is it worth the risk?
Another option is an accusump but don’t know much about them in a Boxster. I think I would ask advice from Harten or EMC before tracking a Boxster.

[barryrs]

I’ve been tinkering with my recent purchase in the garage today and discovered the rear silencers are are pair of pricey Fabspeed numbers.

Almost 25% of the purchase cost

[McSam]

edh said:

<supercool track stuff, and most poignantly:>
square 225/45 setup

Brilliant, thanks for sharing. Do you have any footage? I've always liked the idea of 944s and 968s for track use and racing. They seem to fit so nicely, but your comment on the tyres for the 986 sticks.

I spent a bit of time in that friend's freshly purchased 2003 S today. I have three main takeaways:
1. My exhaust is far too quiet and his (what I think is the standard factory 2003 system, the sausage) adds a presence at part load that simply isn't there with mine and I want it.

2. Either the later engine manages dramatically sharper throttle response and more low- and mid-range torque (keenly noticeable from idle-4000rpm), or my car isn't quite getting on with its IPD plenum and 996 throttle. I wonder whether it's worth changing the MAF just to check that, or if it'll need mapping to suit the different airpath.

3. This is a seriously playful chassis on crap tyres. The 03 has ages-old P Zero Rossos in the same 225 front / 265 rear 18" sizes as mine, but the way it moves around is lovely. Mine has vastly more grip on PS4s - almost an irrelevant amount on the road - but does, as a result, feel aloof if very impressive. I found myself looking on eBay for another set of 17s to put skinny midrange tyres on, perhaps the winter sizes of 205/225 but the square you used is very interesting to really poke it towards - I imagine - an inherent oversteer balance.

Speedgelb said:

That makes a lot more sense now

Apologies for the confusion! Would love to take you up on that - let's see how the current situation develops, and touch base later down the line.

The fault is entirely mine for trying to be unassuming and merely managing "vague" great, look forward to it!

[edc]

If you want a slightly more neutral to rear balance you can wind off some rear negative camber with adjustable toe links and dial in a bit more on the front by dremelling out the camber slot. This squares it up or even allows you more at the front than the rear.

[Bullet-Proof_Biscuit]

edc said:

Bullet-Proof_Biscuit said:

The sump spacer kits are about 300£ from the likes of D911, shall be my first purchase when I get a croc soon

Would you not want to spend £100 more to get a proper deeper sump with baffle?

Fair point well made, forgot about that bit

[Bullet-Proof_Biscuit]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

I thought the 3.4S to 3.7 was just maximum achievable capacity on factory stroke, and thus the 'cheap' option? IE liners and 101mm pistons or whatever, specced over a factory sized set?

I'm really struggling to find a M97 3.6 crank btw, ah and of course it'll need short rods actually thinking about it. 3.7 it is!¬

Since I've started looking, within the last few months, I think I've seen two reduced to clear crocs with bad engines on fleabay so they do come. (Though I am house buying first though). I'll send you any if/when they come up

[ATM]

Cars with no reserve

2005
3.2
166000 miles

Currently 4450

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293624980164

[Order66]

Bullet-Proof_Biscuit said:

The sump spacer kits are about 300£ from the likes of D911, shall be my first purchase when I get a croc soon

Make sure you get the "correct" sump kit - there was someone on another forum (poss rennlist?) a long time ago that did some research into them and some on offer made the problem worse. I believe they were also disparaging about accusumps - possibly the concept that the pressure has to drop so low to activate it that the damage is already done.

If I were buying a sump kit I'd find out what the race cars are using and do that - it's likely to be cheap and effective (racing tends to whittle out the crap products)

[edc]

Order66 said:

Bullet-Proof_Biscuit said:

The sump spacer kits are about 300£ from the likes of D911, shall be my first purchase when I get a croc soon

Make sure you get the "correct" sump kit - there was someone on another forum (poss rennlist?) a long time ago that did some research into them and some on offer made the problem worse. I believe they were also disparaging about accusumps - possibly the concept that the pressure has to drop so low to activate it that the damage is already done.

If I were buying a sump kit I'd find out what the race cars are using and do that - it's likely to be cheap and effective (racing tends to whittle out the crap products)

There's nothing fancy about a deeper sump or spacer. It just adds volume inside.

[paul chocks]

Another good value Cayman? - depending on reserve

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...

[Order66]

edc said:

There's nothing fancy about a deeper sump or spacer. It just adds volume inside.

No, but poorly designed baffles can ensure even less oil gets to the pickup.

[edh]

McSam said:

edh said:

<supercool track stuff, and most poignantly:>
square 225/45 setup

Brilliant, thanks for sharing. Do you have any footage? I've always liked the idea of 944s and 968s for track use and racing. They seem to fit so nicely, but your comment on the tyres for the 986 sticks.

The square setup still seemed pretty neutral TBH. The chassis seems quite clever when it starts to get out of shape and it sorted out a couple of "moments" all by itself...

I was using AD08 tyres. Worked pretty well.

FWIW on my first 986 track day, wet Silverstone with road tyres, the car had awful understeer, with any hint of throttle in a bend pushing it wide... One proper geo later, with wheels pointing in the right direction, it was much better.

[McSam]

edh said:

The square setup still seemed pretty neutral TBH. The chassis seems quite clever when it starts to get out of shape and it sorted out a couple of "moments" all by itself...

I was using AD08 tyres. Worked pretty well.

FWIW on my first 986 track day, wet Silverstone with road tyres, the car had awful understeer, with any hint of throttle in a bend pushing it wide... One proper geo later, with wheels pointing in the right direction, it was much better.

anonymous said:

[redacted]

I think slotting the front strut tops a bit further would be a good place to start. I had the geo checked as soon as I bought the car and found the rear pretty OK, front toeing in heavily as suspected. It's currently -0.5° camber and zero toe at the front, -1.5° camber and 16' total toe in at the rear.

It's at the limit of its standard front camber adjustment, but I would prefer getting it to -1.5°.

Do we know much of the kinematics? Do they gain camber in roll, and does that differ between front and rear axles?

[Andyoz]

ATM said:

Cars with no reserve

2005
3.2
166000 miles

Currently 4450

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293624980164

£5250...

[edc]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

You can only Dremel out around 5mm to get circa -1 deg neg camber. Any more then the top mount will hit the metalwork.

You can also make or buy a rear lower brace bar. This completes the square and bolts together the lower suspension pick up points and reduces deflection.

[shalmaneser]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

[Bullet-Proof_Biscuit]

shalmaneser said:

I was surprised that the oe settings for the 996 front is zero camber. I guess the cayster setting is similar?

IIRC it's to reduce the 'widdow makery-ness' of the handling, and getting geometry set a bit more sporty is the first order on improving the drive of the 9x6 models, not sure on 9x7 though, assume similar.