Porsche itch won't go away....time for a C4S!?
Discussion
dank said:
The car is viewed at the weekend was very much not as described, missing bonnet sticker, front nose respray, lip on the discs, metallic smell from engine after driving, excess smoke from one tail pipe, heavy clutch, torn leather on seats.... i walked
so still hunting
few questions if anyone could help
Sills rusting, and paint rubbing off around top of windscreen on the cabriolet versions - is this common?
Bore scoring issues - I understand i need a horoscope check to check the bores, but what fault is this looking for, is this linked to the RMS issue, so if the RMS has been fixed, bore scoring won't occur? If not who's to say this issue won't happen 5 miles down the road after purchasing???
Should i only consider cars that have had RMS work carried out?
Also if RMS has been carried out would it mean the clutch HAS been replaced, would it be odd if it hadn't been replaced at the same time?
TBH, got my eye on two cabs currently that are in this position, well spec'd, all the toys, although interior colours not first choice, dark blue leather ( reminds me of my blue mk1 clio 172, way back! )
help appreciated
Hmm......bit of confusion going on here.so still hunting
few questions if anyone could help
Sills rusting, and paint rubbing off around top of windscreen on the cabriolet versions - is this common?
Bore scoring issues - I understand i need a horoscope check to check the bores, but what fault is this looking for, is this linked to the RMS issue, so if the RMS has been fixed, bore scoring won't occur? If not who's to say this issue won't happen 5 miles down the road after purchasing???
Should i only consider cars that have had RMS work carried out?
Also if RMS has been carried out would it mean the clutch HAS been replaced, would it be odd if it hadn't been replaced at the same time?
TBH, got my eye on two cabs currently that are in this position, well spec'd, all the toys, although interior colours not first choice, dark blue leather ( reminds me of my blue mk1 clio 172, way back! )
help appreciated
Its a big read but if you want the knowledge wade through the hartech website.
In brief bore scoring has to do with cooling flow - not related to RMS.
A boroscope looks for bore scoring.
An OPC warrantied car may have had an RMS every year with no clutch - RMS leaks are not serious. But a new clutch would normally include a replaced RMS.
IMS is almost impossible to predict so warranty, self warranty with a slush fund or risk it, the vast majority of cars do not suffer.
ims seal is the biggy to worry about.but either way the rms wouldnt cause the burning smell.
mine smells slightly of hot coolant after a drive which i assumed would be rad cap or tank. but that is all.brakes binding can smell like clutch too.
was it the passenger side tail pipe smoking as thats the one that does it if its got bore issues which normally related to cylinder 5 and 6 i believe which are on the driver side of the engine so i was told.
dont give up hope of a good one.mine turned up not far from me after driving all over to look at car and i paid very little for mine imo
mine smells slightly of hot coolant after a drive which i assumed would be rad cap or tank. but that is all.brakes binding can smell like clutch too.
was it the passenger side tail pipe smoking as thats the one that does it if its got bore issues which normally related to cylinder 5 and 6 i believe which are on the driver side of the engine so i was told.
dont give up hope of a good one.mine turned up not far from me after driving all over to look at car and i paid very little for mine imo
yes it was the passenger side tail pipe!
Ok, so from what you guys are saying
1. Get the car inspected, bores checked
2. Then get a warranty, from Hartech or similar for the IMS issue / bore scoring - this has to be more cost effective than a slush fund, 18 grand for a new engine!!!!
3. Buy on condition and history, rather than mileage
So the RMS work is relatively minor and easily fixed as opposed to the Major issue of Bore Scoring....
thanks
Pretty much got my mind set on a cabriolet,hope the right car presents itself, potentially viewing a couple this weekend, both look really good, hopefully not just on the computer screen!
does the X51 pack, throw up any additional issue I should be aware of, as one of the cars has this, only just got my heard round IMS, RMS !!!!
I have seen a nice black coupe on 911uk, which has had a new engine at 60k miles, and has now completed another 20k on this engine, would this mean IMS issues have been eliminated from a NEW engine, or will it always be a problem of the 996 lump?
Ok, so from what you guys are saying
1. Get the car inspected, bores checked
2. Then get a warranty, from Hartech or similar for the IMS issue / bore scoring - this has to be more cost effective than a slush fund, 18 grand for a new engine!!!!
3. Buy on condition and history, rather than mileage
So the RMS work is relatively minor and easily fixed as opposed to the Major issue of Bore Scoring....
thanks
Pretty much got my mind set on a cabriolet,hope the right car presents itself, potentially viewing a couple this weekend, both look really good, hopefully not just on the computer screen!
does the X51 pack, throw up any additional issue I should be aware of, as one of the cars has this, only just got my heard round IMS, RMS !!!!
I have seen a nice black coupe on 911uk, which has had a new engine at 60k miles, and has now completed another 20k on this engine, would this mean IMS issues have been eliminated from a NEW engine, or will it always be a problem of the 996 lump?
steve singh said:
dank said:
Bore scoring issues - I understand i need a horoscope check to check the bores
help appreciated
Yep - avoid any cars made in Oct - Librans are notorious for bore scoring, but they make great lovers...help appreciated
I was going to post something along those lines too. Glad it didn't go unnoticed.
dank said:
7k would still be a nightmare cost!
Really tricky decision, esp as Turbo's don't have these issues, and are much faster, not much more money....
but getting a GOOD turbo is dearer than a c4s.i couldnt stretch to a good one so settled at c4s.plus turbos do have their issues too.Really tricky decision, esp as Turbo's don't have these issues, and are much faster, not much more money....
as for the ims seal.if the modified ims seal has been fitted in the rebuilt engine(i assume done by a reputable builder as there are a lot of cowboys out there!)then it shouldn be a problem if the car is looked after like normal.
mine had the ims and rms done by porsche a couple of years back and it had the modified one fitted so shouldnt be an issue anymore.and im hoping the bore scoring wont be either.
i dont go over 3k until she is warmed up properly.i dont start her and stop her straight away,and i also give her a cool down period(thats more my history in turbo'd cars before that does that)and i keep an eye on revving to avoid overrev being as its a manual
i do love the c4s sound with PSE
and wanted a cab, Turbo cab too much, but found this, and wondered what people thought
http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/use...
and wanted a cab, Turbo cab too much, but found this, and wondered what people thought
http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/use...
I am looking at 2004 C4S and this is a 2002 turbo, around similar money tbh
Mileage on the turbo is quite a bit higher, but i am understanding from these forums, that as long as regularly serviced, the Turbo has no issues with 72,000 miles?
One of the C4S I am looking at is 60k miles....
Mileage on the turbo is quite a bit higher, but i am understanding from these forums, that as long as regularly serviced, the Turbo has no issues with 72,000 miles?
One of the C4S I am looking at is 60k miles....
hmmmm, this is tricky
finally in a position to get my first 911, and preferred the rawness of the C4S, even after driving two Turbo's initially, but now, armed with all the knowledge of the potential issues with a C4S..... i am not so sure!
are the Turbo's engines much more reliable, Clidfords are a good specialist? So it would be throughly checked, serviced etc before purchase?
finally in a position to get my first 911, and preferred the rawness of the C4S, even after driving two Turbo's initially, but now, armed with all the knowledge of the potential issues with a C4S..... i am not so sure!
are the Turbo's engines much more reliable, Clidfords are a good specialist? So it would be throughly checked, serviced etc before purchase?
dank said:
hmmmm, this is tricky
finally in a position to get my first 911, and preferred the rawness of the C4S, even after driving two Turbo's initially, but now, armed with all the knowledge of the potential issues with a C4S..... i am not so sure!
are the Turbo's engines much more reliable, Clidfords are a good specialist? So it would be throughly checked, serviced etc before purchase?
Engine issues are one thing - but turbos cost 70% more to keep on the road than standard 996s.finally in a position to get my first 911, and preferred the rawness of the C4S, even after driving two Turbo's initially, but now, armed with all the knowledge of the potential issues with a C4S..... i am not so sure!
are the Turbo's engines much more reliable, Clidfords are a good specialist? So it would be throughly checked, serviced etc before purchase?
How was I so precise on the 70%? Using the pricing from the Hartech Website Lifetime Warranty plan - £60 vs. £102 IIRC.
There is a turbo in the classifieds which just had a £6k service bill - ouch.
dank said:
hmmmm
more confused then ever now
If you don't desire the speed of the turbo and prefer the rawness of the 996 C4S - then buy a C4S as...more confused then ever now
1) It will be cheaper to buy - leaving you a 'slush fund'
2) It will be cheaper to run (outside of engine failure)
3) It's the car you want!
Engine exploding worry?
1) Purchase from someone who gives you a decent warranty (e.g. RSJ, SCOM)
or
2) Put an OPC warranty on it (noting the 90 day rule and restrictive T&Cs re what you can and can't do)
or
3) Put a Hartech warranty on it
or
4) Run it and take the risk - keeping a slush fund of C£5k for a rebuild if it so requires
No?
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