Driving Steve Rance's tweaked 964 C2
Discussion
For some context, and for anyone who may be interested. chassis and set up details are;
Brakes: 993Turbo callipers front, 993C2 calipers rear. No adjustment to the bias valves (will explain). 964 Turbo discs front, 964RS discs rear. Pagid yellow pads front and rear.
Chassis: 964RS anti roll bars front and rear. Front strut brace, engine support bracket (as per 964RSR). RS engine mounts. KW Clubsport dampers with 350lb front and 700lb rear spings + assistor springs. Factory valving set up.
Geo: front - 3.00 Neg camber, Max caster, 5min toe out. Ride height Rs - 24mm. Anti roll bar. 1 off full stiff. Rear: -3.5 Neg camber 10 min toe in. Ride height RS - 20mm. Anti roll bar. Full stiff.
The set up is very sharp. Philosophy is to keep the front suspension travel distnces to a minimum to reduce bumpsteer (associated with the 964 front suspension geometry). Sacrificed camber on the front because too small a footprint can cause ABS problems unless on slicks. The balance of the car is therefore slightly rearward than usual, the use of the bigger front calipers pushes the brake bias forward making it easier to drop the nose of the car on braking. The KW clubsport damper utilises the same essential valving technology as the Race damper. So a combination of tight, decent quality damping control, high spring rate, forward brake bias and very sharp chasis set up with a slightly rearward grip bias makes for a car that responds very well to trail braking (well spotted cmoose). The pagid yellows give a little more feel to help.
Very rewarding at all speeds. A lot of fun. You can drive it like a mid engined car at lower speeds. As the pace increases, so does the need for a trail. At 10/10ths a full trail is needed - as per the 996/7 Cup. Absolutely fantastic little thing. For the money, I cannot think of a better car that I have driven or would want to own.
Final mod will be a Chris scolfield remap. Nothing else needed.
Brakes: 993Turbo callipers front, 993C2 calipers rear. No adjustment to the bias valves (will explain). 964 Turbo discs front, 964RS discs rear. Pagid yellow pads front and rear.
Chassis: 964RS anti roll bars front and rear. Front strut brace, engine support bracket (as per 964RSR). RS engine mounts. KW Clubsport dampers with 350lb front and 700lb rear spings + assistor springs. Factory valving set up.
Geo: front - 3.00 Neg camber, Max caster, 5min toe out. Ride height Rs - 24mm. Anti roll bar. 1 off full stiff. Rear: -3.5 Neg camber 10 min toe in. Ride height RS - 20mm. Anti roll bar. Full stiff.
The set up is very sharp. Philosophy is to keep the front suspension travel distnces to a minimum to reduce bumpsteer (associated with the 964 front suspension geometry). Sacrificed camber on the front because too small a footprint can cause ABS problems unless on slicks. The balance of the car is therefore slightly rearward than usual, the use of the bigger front calipers pushes the brake bias forward making it easier to drop the nose of the car on braking. The KW clubsport damper utilises the same essential valving technology as the Race damper. So a combination of tight, decent quality damping control, high spring rate, forward brake bias and very sharp chasis set up with a slightly rearward grip bias makes for a car that responds very well to trail braking (well spotted cmoose). The pagid yellows give a little more feel to help.
Very rewarding at all speeds. A lot of fun. You can drive it like a mid engined car at lower speeds. As the pace increases, so does the need for a trail. At 10/10ths a full trail is needed - as per the 996/7 Cup. Absolutely fantastic little thing. For the money, I cannot think of a better car that I have driven or would want to own.
Final mod will be a Chris scolfield remap. Nothing else needed.
Steve Rance said:
For some context, and for anyone who may be interested. chassis and set up details are;
Brakes: 993Turbo callipers front, 993C2 calipers rear. No adjustment to the bias valves (will explain). 964 Turbo discs front, 964RS discs rear. Pagid yellow pads front and rear.
Chassis: 964RS anti roll bars front and rear. Front strut brace, engine support bracket (as per 964RSR). RS engine mounts. KW Clubsport dampers with 350lb front and 700lb rear spings + assistor springs. Factory valving set up.
Geo: front - 3.00 Neg camber, Max caster, 5min toe out. Ride height Rs - 24mm. Anti roll bar. 1 off full stiff. Rear: -3.5 Neg camber 10 min toe in. Ride height RS - 20mm. Anti roll bar. Full stiff.
The set up is very sharp. Philosophy is to keep the front suspension travel distnces to a minimum to reduce bumpsteer (associated with the 964 front suspension geometry). Sacrificed camber on the front because too small a footprint can cause ABS problems unless on slicks. The balance of the car is therefore slightly rearward than usual, the use of the bigger front calipers pushes the brake bias forward making it easier to drop the nose of the car on braking. The KW clubsport damper utilises the same essential valving technology as the Race damper. So a combination of tight, decent quality damping control, high spring rate, forward brake bias and very sharp chasis set up with a slightly rearward grip bias makes for a car that responds very well to trail braking (well spotted cmoose). The pagid yellows give a little more feel to help.
Very rewarding at all speeds. A lot of fun. You can drive it like a mid engined car at lower speeds. As the pace increases, so does the need for a trail. At 10/10ths a full trail is needed - as per the 996/7 Cup. Absolutely fantastic little thing. For the money, I cannot think of a better car that I have driven or would want to own.
Final mod will be a Chris scolfield remap. Nothing else needed.
An interesting read (for a layman like me at least Brakes: 993Turbo callipers front, 993C2 calipers rear. No adjustment to the bias valves (will explain). 964 Turbo discs front, 964RS discs rear. Pagid yellow pads front and rear.
Chassis: 964RS anti roll bars front and rear. Front strut brace, engine support bracket (as per 964RSR). RS engine mounts. KW Clubsport dampers with 350lb front and 700lb rear spings + assistor springs. Factory valving set up.
Geo: front - 3.00 Neg camber, Max caster, 5min toe out. Ride height Rs - 24mm. Anti roll bar. 1 off full stiff. Rear: -3.5 Neg camber 10 min toe in. Ride height RS - 20mm. Anti roll bar. Full stiff.
The set up is very sharp. Philosophy is to keep the front suspension travel distnces to a minimum to reduce bumpsteer (associated with the 964 front suspension geometry). Sacrificed camber on the front because too small a footprint can cause ABS problems unless on slicks. The balance of the car is therefore slightly rearward than usual, the use of the bigger front calipers pushes the brake bias forward making it easier to drop the nose of the car on braking. The KW clubsport damper utilises the same essential valving technology as the Race damper. So a combination of tight, decent quality damping control, high spring rate, forward brake bias and very sharp chasis set up with a slightly rearward grip bias makes for a car that responds very well to trail braking (well spotted cmoose). The pagid yellows give a little more feel to help.
Very rewarding at all speeds. A lot of fun. You can drive it like a mid engined car at lower speeds. As the pace increases, so does the need for a trail. At 10/10ths a full trail is needed - as per the 996/7 Cup. Absolutely fantastic little thing. For the money, I cannot think of a better car that I have driven or would want to own.
Final mod will be a Chris scolfield remap. Nothing else needed.
), of how the various bits of tuning work together to get to a specific, desired setup. How about the diff, does it also play a part?Would it normally be rare to be able to trail-brake an aircooled car to this extent?
braddo said:
An interesting read (for a layman like me at least ), of how the various bits of tuning work together to get to a specific, desired setup. How about the diff, does it also play a part?
Would it normally be rare to be able to trail-brake an aircooled car to this extent?
The diff is pretty central to the thinking behind the set up as it helps to settle the rear of the car under trail braking. Some of my friends that race/d aircooled 911's do trail and some don't. A lot of drivers have developed the technique relatively recently but certainly it's the fastest way for me to extract the fastest time. The times that my little 964 is achieving would put it at the sharp end of a future classics grid - which is very impressive for a car with carpets, electric Windows and aircon. So I'm confident that the chassis package works as a whole ), of how the various bits of tuning work together to get to a specific, desired setup. How about the diff, does it also play a part?Would it normally be rare to be able to trail-brake an aircooled car to this extent?
Steve Rance said:
The diff is pretty central to the thinking behind the set up as it helps to settle the rear of the car under trail braking. Some of my friends that race/d aircooled 911's do trail and some don't. A lot of drivers have developed the technique relatively recently but certainly it's the fastest way for me to extract the fastest time. The times that my little 964 is achieving would put it at the sharp end of a future classics grid - which is very impressive for a car with carpets, electric Windows and aircon. So I'm confident that the chassis package works as a whole
Thanks. Is it a standard 964 LSD or have you had to uprate it?Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff