Twenty Year Old 986 as a Daily
Discussion
Is it doable?
Could I buy and (daily) run a 2000 - 2004 986 2.7 or 3.2, 10K a year 52 weeks a year in all weather, and not regret it?
I'm fully aware of the bills these cars can throw up, the coffin arms and drop links, front & rear brake hoses, clutch and rads/pipework/pump/stat being the usual bigger ones. But if I bought one that'd had at least most of the above done, could I run it as a functional daily without having to have half the car rebuilt in short order?
What about rust? I know these cars were well rust proofed in their time. But how is a typical twenty year old example fairing underneath now?
I could also rephrase my question like this: would I, all things being equal, be likely to shell out less in total by daily running a cheaper (to buy) 2000 - 2004 986 and swallowing the maintenance bills, or an early 2004 - 2006ish 987 boxster and shell out more to buy but hopefully save some on maintenance? Would there even be any difference?
Any wisdom and experience highly appreciated.
Could I buy and (daily) run a 2000 - 2004 986 2.7 or 3.2, 10K a year 52 weeks a year in all weather, and not regret it?
I'm fully aware of the bills these cars can throw up, the coffin arms and drop links, front & rear brake hoses, clutch and rads/pipework/pump/stat being the usual bigger ones. But if I bought one that'd had at least most of the above done, could I run it as a functional daily without having to have half the car rebuilt in short order?
What about rust? I know these cars were well rust proofed in their time. But how is a typical twenty year old example fairing underneath now?
I could also rephrase my question like this: would I, all things being equal, be likely to shell out less in total by daily running a cheaper (to buy) 2000 - 2004 986 and swallowing the maintenance bills, or an early 2004 - 2006ish 987 boxster and shell out more to buy but hopefully save some on maintenance? Would there even be any difference?
Any wisdom and experience highly appreciated.
Yes, you could. Or it could wrong. With due diligence, likely somewhere in between. You'll have niggles but nothing utterly ruinous.
You'd need to go in being aware that you might have things like rads, coolant tank, AOS etc attended to at some point, plus suspension arms, roof niggles and so on. They're pretty good re major corrosion, so that's not a significant concern. You could easily go a few years without really needing to do anything major.
A 987 2.7 with lowish miles would on balance likely be a bit more straight forward, it's younger and a little more sorted in some ways. Rust should not be an issue at all bar leading edges of sills. But there are still things on 987s like coolant crosspipes that pretty much all of them need doing if not already done. And rads. And AOS. And suspension arms. Etc. To a degree.
But I'd get the model you prefer rather than choosing based on reliability. There are no guarantees and it's always a bit easier putting money into a car you love. If you're going 986, go 3.2. It's a lot torquier, no real downsides (slightly less reliable gearbox, at a push). 987s are looking a little toppy in current frothy market.
You'd need to go in being aware that you might have things like rads, coolant tank, AOS etc attended to at some point, plus suspension arms, roof niggles and so on. They're pretty good re major corrosion, so that's not a significant concern. You could easily go a few years without really needing to do anything major.
A 987 2.7 with lowish miles would on balance likely be a bit more straight forward, it's younger and a little more sorted in some ways. Rust should not be an issue at all bar leading edges of sills. But there are still things on 987s like coolant crosspipes that pretty much all of them need doing if not already done. And rads. And AOS. And suspension arms. Etc. To a degree.
But I'd get the model you prefer rather than choosing based on reliability. There are no guarantees and it's always a bit easier putting money into a car you love. If you're going 986, go 3.2. It's a lot torquier, no real downsides (slightly less reliable gearbox, at a push). 987s are looking a little toppy in current frothy market.
Yes - I do exactly that right now, and have done for the past 2 years.
Full disclosure - my girlfriend has a 5-door hatchback that's used for shopping trips, days out with the dog, etc. ... but for getting me to work and back each day, and wherever in the country I need to go, the Boxster is my only choice.
I bought a 100k miles 2001 986 3.2 S for £5.1k back in July 2019. It had a few choice options that I specifically sought out. Firstly, it has the 17" wheels to give a better ride. Secondly, it has the xenon headlights to actually allow me to see stuff in the dark. Handy in December when it's pitch black by the time I get out of work. Finally, it has heated seats. This allows me to drop the roof in pretty much any dry weather (note - the manual does recommend you don't drop the roof below about 1 degree in temperature) and stay reasonably warm. It also has an upgraded stereo (most have some form of upgrade over absolute base model) which wasn't on my 'must have' list, but is nice.
In terms of maintenance, I gave it an oil service and gearbox oil change when I bought it, and stayed on top of the oil services myself since then.
It did get an advisory for a drop link at the last MOT, which I'll sort over the summer and give the rest of the suspension a review while I'm under there.
A couple of winters on salted roads have set off some cosmetic rust (the fronts of the rear arches, and the backs of the front arches) which I will probably have sorted this year, but nothing structural (yet! Famous last words & all that).
In summary, provided you have no need for back seats and a big boot, the right Boxster can absolutely be a comfortable and reliable daily driver that completely rewards you when you stumble across the right road.
Full disclosure - my girlfriend has a 5-door hatchback that's used for shopping trips, days out with the dog, etc. ... but for getting me to work and back each day, and wherever in the country I need to go, the Boxster is my only choice.
I bought a 100k miles 2001 986 3.2 S for £5.1k back in July 2019. It had a few choice options that I specifically sought out. Firstly, it has the 17" wheels to give a better ride. Secondly, it has the xenon headlights to actually allow me to see stuff in the dark. Handy in December when it's pitch black by the time I get out of work. Finally, it has heated seats. This allows me to drop the roof in pretty much any dry weather (note - the manual does recommend you don't drop the roof below about 1 degree in temperature) and stay reasonably warm. It also has an upgraded stereo (most have some form of upgrade over absolute base model) which wasn't on my 'must have' list, but is nice.
In terms of maintenance, I gave it an oil service and gearbox oil change when I bought it, and stayed on top of the oil services myself since then.
It did get an advisory for a drop link at the last MOT, which I'll sort over the summer and give the rest of the suspension a review while I'm under there.
A couple of winters on salted roads have set off some cosmetic rust (the fronts of the rear arches, and the backs of the front arches) which I will probably have sorted this year, but nothing structural (yet! Famous last words & all that).
In summary, provided you have no need for back seats and a big boot, the right Boxster can absolutely be a comfortable and reliable daily driver that completely rewards you when you stumble across the right road.
Yep definitely. We ran 20 year old 944 with 187,000 miles on the clock as a daily/family car for 2 years.
It was only when my son outgrew the rear seats that we relegated it to weekend status.
Christmas family visits were interesting
But other than it was great. Had a good blast down to Cornwall for a holiday, it was great.
It was only when my son outgrew the rear seats that we relegated it to weekend status.
Christmas family visits were interesting
But other than it was great. Had a good blast down to Cornwall for a holiday, it was great. Start with a good one and you're set; if you are mechanically sympathetic and competent.........
Running an expensive car properly always carries expensive bills - if you use it more, you'll pay more to keep it in A1 condition.
As soon as you get it, get the wheels and arch liners off; clean all the drain points and get the muck and crud out with a good clean. Lift the roof, make sure the drain membranes are intact and ensure the roof drains are clear - they aren't sealed from inside>outside as such; the inner membrane fits into the outer tube (like putting a loose fitting funnel into a pipe), if the outer tube blocks, it backs up and water spills between the tube and membrane - straight into the body/cabin. If a 987 is the one, it should have grilles in place over the inner drain points - a service item that should be fitted and cleaned regularly; if removed, bigger leaves and such go into the tube and.......
Check under the bonnet, lift the battery cover and clear/clean front panel drains. Keep rad and condenser ducts clean.
When the car is dry, get all the undertrays off- a mate with a two post lift is helpful! Check the coolant hoses and if they in good nick spray some anti corrosion wax on them - the alloy pipes and their connections (on 9x7's) corrode.
Keep an eye/hand out for door carpets getting wet - the inner door panels can leak - rubberised sheet on 986; metal panel with neoprene seal on 987. Fix it right first time and no reason they will fail in the next ?yrs (I replaced a window regulator on a 987 with inner panels that had been grip-filled on once.......seriously, the bodge quotient was high on that one!!)
Do the above preventative maintenance properly, once , and check the drain ports under the roof once a month when you clean it and it won't cause issues - lack of maintenance is the killer; not design issues........
Consider more frequent oil changes - 986 are 12k; 987 20k - Great for accountants illustrating 'maintenance costs' when comparing running a 964 against a 987 in 2004 but less so for the mechanical bits involved.
Consider your use of the car - if you motorway cruise a lot, bits will last a fair while; if your commute is 35 miles of B roads each way - it'll be fun - but you'll wear suspension bits out quicker. Listen for knocks/rattles after 15-20 minutes of driving - hollow jiggly noises are usually trailing arm balljoints; louder knocks, coffin arms as the bushes allow contact between the fork of the trailing arm and the lower arm itself. Knocks and rattles don't stop you using the car - but it's not as enjoyable. If you consider the original parts usually last 60k+, replacing them all once should cover years of future driving. IMO don't chase a noise by replacing bits one by one - it'll feel like you are always working on it....... turn the radio up and drive it then replace it all during its scheduled maintenance.
Concerned I sound like the 30k refresh thread from a few years ago - it might be a 3k (really?) -15k? car now; but it will always have 35-50k car costs and will hold its value if looked after right.
Running an expensive car properly always carries expensive bills - if you use it more, you'll pay more to keep it in A1 condition.
As soon as you get it, get the wheels and arch liners off; clean all the drain points and get the muck and crud out with a good clean. Lift the roof, make sure the drain membranes are intact and ensure the roof drains are clear - they aren't sealed from inside>outside as such; the inner membrane fits into the outer tube (like putting a loose fitting funnel into a pipe), if the outer tube blocks, it backs up and water spills between the tube and membrane - straight into the body/cabin. If a 987 is the one, it should have grilles in place over the inner drain points - a service item that should be fitted and cleaned regularly; if removed, bigger leaves and such go into the tube and.......
Check under the bonnet, lift the battery cover and clear/clean front panel drains. Keep rad and condenser ducts clean.
When the car is dry, get all the undertrays off- a mate with a two post lift is helpful! Check the coolant hoses and if they in good nick spray some anti corrosion wax on them - the alloy pipes and their connections (on 9x7's) corrode.
Keep an eye/hand out for door carpets getting wet - the inner door panels can leak - rubberised sheet on 986; metal panel with neoprene seal on 987. Fix it right first time and no reason they will fail in the next ?yrs (I replaced a window regulator on a 987 with inner panels that had been grip-filled on once.......seriously, the bodge quotient was high on that one!!)
Do the above preventative maintenance properly, once , and check the drain ports under the roof once a month when you clean it and it won't cause issues - lack of maintenance is the killer; not design issues........
Consider more frequent oil changes - 986 are 12k; 987 20k - Great for accountants illustrating 'maintenance costs' when comparing running a 964 against a 987 in 2004 but less so for the mechanical bits involved.
Consider your use of the car - if you motorway cruise a lot, bits will last a fair while; if your commute is 35 miles of B roads each way - it'll be fun - but you'll wear suspension bits out quicker. Listen for knocks/rattles after 15-20 minutes of driving - hollow jiggly noises are usually trailing arm balljoints; louder knocks, coffin arms as the bushes allow contact between the fork of the trailing arm and the lower arm itself. Knocks and rattles don't stop you using the car - but it's not as enjoyable. If you consider the original parts usually last 60k+, replacing them all once should cover years of future driving. IMO don't chase a noise by replacing bits one by one - it'll feel like you are always working on it....... turn the radio up and drive it then replace it all during its scheduled maintenance.
Concerned I sound like the 30k refresh thread from a few years ago - it might be a 3k (really?) -15k? car now; but it will always have 35-50k car costs and will hold its value if looked after right.
Edited by Pope on Saturday 12th June 08:13
I second the above advice, removing every under tray panel and wheel-arch liner will probably release a couple of bucketfuls of mud and grit.
A good dose of waxoyl or similar is a very good idea especially on the awkward to remove and very pricey front alloy coolant pipes. I’ve just replaced them on a 2008 car and was very surprised how bad the corrosion was. IMO a squirt of wax from new would have prevented this but I suppose Porsche are raking it in selling new piping at £500 a set.
A more charitable mate says its probably because the factory isn't allowed to spray wax due to VOC regulations.
A good dose of waxoyl or similar is a very good idea especially on the awkward to remove and very pricey front alloy coolant pipes. I’ve just replaced them on a 2008 car and was very surprised how bad the corrosion was. IMO a squirt of wax from new would have prevented this but I suppose Porsche are raking it in selling new piping at £500 a set.
A more charitable mate says its probably because the factory isn't allowed to spray wax due to VOC regulations.
2 years ago I bought a 97 2.5 Boxster which my wife drives every day. Start with a good one and bring all the servicing up to date.
As preventative work I changed oil, plugs, coils, water pump etc. Oil change every six months which is about 5k miles. New clutch at a specialist was the only big bill.
Hardtop for the winter.
Another car needed a battery so the Boxster got a new one and the other car got a hand me down.
Michelin Pilot Sports fitted all round make a difference.
She remains standard except for a Cargraphic stainless exhaust.
Very easy to use as a daily drive and I feel benefits from regular use.
As preventative work I changed oil, plugs, coils, water pump etc. Oil change every six months which is about 5k miles. New clutch at a specialist was the only big bill.
Hardtop for the winter.
Another car needed a battery so the Boxster got a new one and the other car got a hand me down.
Michelin Pilot Sports fitted all round make a difference.
She remains standard except for a Cargraphic stainless exhaust.
Very easy to use as a daily drive and I feel benefits from regular use.
Hello. I've just bought a 2000 boxster s with 97k on it from a guy on boxanet. It won't be my daily but a weekend car. Would I use it daily though?
I'm tall, 6ft 4 with long legs. And although I fit in the seat ok the steering wheel does rub my left leg when I use the clutch pedal. It doesn't bother me too much but it would if I was using it every day.
The car I bought was looked after and cherished. But it still needs new brake lines fitting and handbrake cables which will be about 600 quid fitted at my local indie. If you have a good local Porsche independent then you might be ok but I would think you'd be looking at least a grand a year maintenance costs as a minimum, but you might get lucky.
It's quite a raw driving experience and not very refined. Which is fine that's what I was after. But I'm not sure I'd enjoy driving it in the snow and rain, you might consider getting a spare set of winter tyres if you wanted to use it daily. And heated seats!
I'm tall, 6ft 4 with long legs. And although I fit in the seat ok the steering wheel does rub my left leg when I use the clutch pedal. It doesn't bother me too much but it would if I was using it every day.
The car I bought was looked after and cherished. But it still needs new brake lines fitting and handbrake cables which will be about 600 quid fitted at my local indie. If you have a good local Porsche independent then you might be ok but I would think you'd be looking at least a grand a year maintenance costs as a minimum, but you might get lucky.
It's quite a raw driving experience and not very refined. Which is fine that's what I was after. But I'm not sure I'd enjoy driving it in the snow and rain, you might consider getting a spare set of winter tyres if you wanted to use it daily. And heated seats!
CarlosSainz100 said:
Hello. I've just bought a 2000 boxster s with 97k on it from a guy on boxanet. It won't be my daily but a weekend car. Would I use it daily though?
I'm tall, 6ft 4 with long legs. And although I fit in the seat ok the steering wheel does rub my left leg when I use the clutch pedal. It doesn't bother me too much but it would if I was using it every day.
The car I bought was looked after and cherished. But it still needs new brake lines fitting and handbrake cables which will be about 600 quid fitted at my local indie. If you have a good local Porsche independent then you might be ok but I would think you'd be looking at least a grand a year maintenance costs as a minimum, but you might get lucky.
It's quite a raw driving experience and not very refined. Which is fine that's what I was after. But I'm not sure I'd enjoy driving it in the snow and rain, you might consider getting a spare set of winter tyres if you wanted to use it daily. And heated seats!
I’m 6’2” and found by switching from my usual trainers to a pair of Toms or school type plimsolls I have less of an issue with the left leg and the centre console. I know you can remove it but I like the additional storage there so just use different shoes to solve the problem. I'm tall, 6ft 4 with long legs. And although I fit in the seat ok the steering wheel does rub my left leg when I use the clutch pedal. It doesn't bother me too much but it would if I was using it every day.
The car I bought was looked after and cherished. But it still needs new brake lines fitting and handbrake cables which will be about 600 quid fitted at my local indie. If you have a good local Porsche independent then you might be ok but I would think you'd be looking at least a grand a year maintenance costs as a minimum, but you might get lucky.
It's quite a raw driving experience and not very refined. Which is fine that's what I was after. But I'm not sure I'd enjoy driving it in the snow and rain, you might consider getting a spare set of winter tyres if you wanted to use it daily. And heated seats!
I just bought a 2000 Boxster S with 100k on the clock for my daily. Only had it a week but no regrets yet!
It's been pampered, at least for the past few years, but I'm doing an oil/filter change this weekend just because I like to do it on any car I get straight away. I'd also like to do the gearbox, there seems to be a fair bit if internet disagreement about what oil's best. What's the verdict here - do I need the special Porsche juice or is any decent 75w90 ok?
It has a nasty rattle at start up, hot or cold, which goes away after a few seconds. Should I worry?
It's been pampered, at least for the past few years, but I'm doing an oil/filter change this weekend just because I like to do it on any car I get straight away. I'd also like to do the gearbox, there seems to be a fair bit if internet disagreement about what oil's best. What's the verdict here - do I need the special Porsche juice or is any decent 75w90 ok?
It has a nasty rattle at start up, hot or cold, which goes away after a few seconds. Should I worry?
I would have a good poke around underneath, been some real horror images recently on some of the 996 groups of under body corrosion on what at first sight looked like minor issues. The flexible underseal cracks over time and lets in moisture behind and they can rust in piece slowly. Areas around the jacking points, the box section behind the front wheels and areas where they may have had a jack under are common problem areas.
hairykrishna said:
I just bought a 2000 Boxster S with 100k on the clock for my daily. Only had it a week but no regrets yet!
It's been pampered, at least for the past few years, but I'm doing an oil/filter change this weekend just because I like to do it on any car I get straight away. I'd also like to do the gearbox, there seems to be a fair bit if internet disagreement about what oil's best. What's the verdict here - do I need the special Porsche juice or is any decent 75w90 ok?
It has a nasty rattle at start up, hot or cold, which goes away after a few seconds. Should I worry?
I used decent 75w90. It made the shift quality worse! It's been pampered, at least for the past few years, but I'm doing an oil/filter change this weekend just because I like to do it on any car I get straight away. I'd also like to do the gearbox, there seems to be a fair bit if internet disagreement about what oil's best. What's the verdict here - do I need the special Porsche juice or is any decent 75w90 ok?
It has a nasty rattle at start up, hot or cold, which goes away after a few seconds. Should I worry?
I probably need to change it for the special Porsche juice at some point ... but I hate the smell of gearbox oil. My least favourite job to do on a car! Only tip I'd give you is to undo the 'fill' bung first before undoing the 'drain' one - just to make sure you don't find out your 'fill' bung is cross threaded and won't come out after you've drained all your oil out!
As for the rattle, the best case scenario here is an exhaust heat shield. Does it sound very tinny and seem to come from under the rear bumper, rather than the middle of the car? Mine did just that, and I just bent the heat shield back a little so it doesn't touch the exhaust.
After I started this thread, I took people's advice and did it. I particularly took note of what F6C said, that it's easier putting money into the car you like. So I finally pulled the trigger in July and bought a 2006 yellow 987 Boxster 2.7 manual, 55k.
How's it been? Actually, it's been fine but there have been some nail biting moments. I bought it from a well known Porsche Indy, and that meant it came with a good six month warranty - which is just as well as I had to claim on it (details on the poverty pork thread a few pages back).
I've put another 4.5k on it in that time, and the only issues have been things that have come up due to me daily running a car that's only done 9k in the last 5 years. A coolant tank bleed release valve failed, dumping the coolant, and the bolts broke on the exhaust manifold requiring new bolts (after drilling out old ones), clamps and gaskets all round. Both jobs came to a combined total of £601 all in. I think that's not too bad in five months. Apart from the well taken care of warranty claim, I haven't had any other work done at all.
I've just got to learn not to panic every time something comes up. Like, for example, when the exhaust started howling, I took it to a tyre & zorst chain who looked at it and told me they didn't want the job and it needed a new exhaust manifold and catalytic converter!!?! I panicked, and thought I was gonna put two grand on the credit card. Took it to a sports car garage used to working on Porsches, and it turned out just to be the aforementioned bolts clamps and gaskets.
As far as I know my car needs no other work. It had a full service by the Indy I bought it from in the summer.
My advice to anyone buying is to find a car that's had as many of the usual suspects changed as poss. Mine's had front crossover pipes, rear solid brake hoses, front and rear springs, drop links, suspension arms, anti-roll bar, light switch and front and rear brake discs, pads, drums, shoes and shoe springs all changed within the last 10k or so.
Like others who've kindly commented on this thread, I've found it absolutely is possible to daily one of these cars. A couple of purchases I've made are a 986 space saver and a half cover which covers the hood and glass area. This is useful not only for frosty weather (car kept outside), but also because I park at my boss's house, we go to work in his van, and there are cats around there who like to get on the roof. Obviously, cats' claws on a hood are not a good combination, so the half cover was a good investment.
How's it been? Actually, it's been fine but there have been some nail biting moments. I bought it from a well known Porsche Indy, and that meant it came with a good six month warranty - which is just as well as I had to claim on it (details on the poverty pork thread a few pages back).
I've put another 4.5k on it in that time, and the only issues have been things that have come up due to me daily running a car that's only done 9k in the last 5 years. A coolant tank bleed release valve failed, dumping the coolant, and the bolts broke on the exhaust manifold requiring new bolts (after drilling out old ones), clamps and gaskets all round. Both jobs came to a combined total of £601 all in. I think that's not too bad in five months. Apart from the well taken care of warranty claim, I haven't had any other work done at all.
I've just got to learn not to panic every time something comes up. Like, for example, when the exhaust started howling, I took it to a tyre & zorst chain who looked at it and told me they didn't want the job and it needed a new exhaust manifold and catalytic converter!!?! I panicked, and thought I was gonna put two grand on the credit card. Took it to a sports car garage used to working on Porsches, and it turned out just to be the aforementioned bolts clamps and gaskets.
As far as I know my car needs no other work. It had a full service by the Indy I bought it from in the summer.
My advice to anyone buying is to find a car that's had as many of the usual suspects changed as poss. Mine's had front crossover pipes, rear solid brake hoses, front and rear springs, drop links, suspension arms, anti-roll bar, light switch and front and rear brake discs, pads, drums, shoes and shoe springs all changed within the last 10k or so.
Like others who've kindly commented on this thread, I've found it absolutely is possible to daily one of these cars. A couple of purchases I've made are a 986 space saver and a half cover which covers the hood and glass area. This is useful not only for frosty weather (car kept outside), but also because I park at my boss's house, we go to work in his van, and there are cats around there who like to get on the roof. Obviously, cats' claws on a hood are not a good combination, so the half cover was a good investment.
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