997.1 Coolant problem
Discussion
stevemcs said:
Mariosbt said:
No, it was a different indie that drained it the 2nd time.
Ah, that’s ok then,He then drained & refilled the system. 7 miles later .. the warning light reappeared. I text him, he text back saying he would sort it. Never heard from him again. He clearly didn’t know what it was!
SO NO.. ITS NOT OK.
That’s why the car is now at an OPC. Hopefully they will have the technology to get to the bottom of it.
Got a video from OPC today.. been all over the car like a rash. Pointing out aftermarket parts fitted & telling me the tyres were 6 years old & should be changed 
.. Porsche guide lines must be different to ministry of transport. Even pointed out the battery wasn’t a Porsche recommended battery.. ffs, it’s been on the car 6 years & never let me down, unlike the original Porsche battery!
Still not got to the root of the problem. Waiting for the phone call!
Im pretty sure I don’t need them to go under my car with a camera to tell me I have had aftermarket exhaust boxes fitted! A bit like a trip to Quickfit I had once to fix a puncture on a 6 week old escort van. They went all over it trying to find something that made it unroadworthy to get more money out of me!
.. Porsche guide lines must be different to ministry of transport. Even pointed out the battery wasn’t a Porsche recommended battery.. ffs, it’s been on the car 6 years & never let me down, unlike the original Porsche battery!Still not got to the root of the problem. Waiting for the phone call!
Im pretty sure I don’t need them to go under my car with a camera to tell me I have had aftermarket exhaust boxes fitted! A bit like a trip to Quickfit I had once to fix a puncture on a 6 week old escort van. They went all over it trying to find something that made it unroadworthy to get more money out of me!
Edited by Mariosbt on Thursday 2nd December 23:35
Got a call last night from OPC saying that the technician would not continue with the investigation unless I had a genuine Porsche thermostat fitted (£350
)
Only just had the aftermarket LTT fitted about 6 weeks ago (£85) reasonable in my opinion.
Technician even complained that I had put none OEM wheel nuts on. That was only because the Porsches wheel nuts had rusted and the alloy radius seats had started to crumble!
The aftermarket back boxes I had installed are IMO far better quality than the OEM units
Not sure where I stand now. Do I just go back, pay whatever for their inspection costs & bring the car home?
£600 road tax is due before I drive it back home ……
)Only just had the aftermarket LTT fitted about 6 weeks ago (£85) reasonable in my opinion.
Technician even complained that I had put none OEM wheel nuts on. That was only because the Porsches wheel nuts had rusted and the alloy radius seats had started to crumble!
The aftermarket back boxes I had installed are IMO far better quality than the OEM units
Not sure where I stand now. Do I just go back, pay whatever for their inspection costs & bring the car home?
£600 road tax is due before I drive it back home ……
Edited by Mariosbt on Saturday 4th December 12:40
An OPC is the wrong place for an older car, unless you have a bottomless wallet. What they are saying is not unreasonable; they have specs for the car based on OE values and a LTT will change some of these. I think you’ll be getting a bill from them for looking at the car regardless, but I’d get it out of there.
What I don’t understand is why you did not go back to the place that did all the work - 50 miles seems a small inconvenience compared to going to another garage and then to an OPC, paying out more money each time. Having spent 7k with them they might have been inclined to help out gratis, as it seems the problem arose after their work.
I also don’t feel you’re being fair to the place that did the bleed, as you say you didn’t hear from them - if they texted saying it would be sorted, then the next message or contact should be from you, to book the car in, etc.
A Porsche specialist will be able to read codes and clear the warning - sometimes that’s all that is needed.
What I don’t understand is why you did not go back to the place that did all the work - 50 miles seems a small inconvenience compared to going to another garage and then to an OPC, paying out more money each time. Having spent 7k with them they might have been inclined to help out gratis, as it seems the problem arose after their work.
I also don’t feel you’re being fair to the place that did the bleed, as you say you didn’t hear from them - if they texted saying it would be sorted, then the next message or contact should be from you, to book the car in, etc.
A Porsche specialist will be able to read codes and clear the warning - sometimes that’s all that is needed.
pete.g said:
An OPC is the wrong place for an older car, unless you have a bottomless wallet. What they are saying is not unreasonable; they have specs for the car based on OE values and a LTT will change some of these. I think you’ll be getting a bill from them for looking at the car regardless, but I’d get it out of there.
What I don’t understand is why you did not go back to the place that did all the work - 50 miles seems a small inconvenience compared to going to another garage and then to an OPC, paying out more money each time. Having spent 7k with them they might have been inclined to help out gratis, as it seems the problem arose after their work.
I also don’t feel you’re being fair to the place that did the bleed, as you say you didn’t hear from them - if they texted saying it would be sorted, then the next message or contact should be from you, to book the car in, etc.
A Porsche specialist will be able to read codes and clear the warning - sometimes that’s all that is needed.
I contacted the indie that did the £7K work, told them the problem but they never replied. I have been reluctant to ‘name names’ as yet.. but f*ck me I am close!
The 2nd indie who is only 4 miles from me , I didn’t know existed until later. I took the car to him & he pointed out it was almost certainly an air lock. He then drained & refilled.. 8 miles down the road same thing! The car isn’t overheating, so really I can drive it anywhere than can ‘sort her out’ …. Simples 
What I don’t understand is why you did not go back to the place that did all the work - 50 miles seems a small inconvenience compared to going to another garage and then to an OPC, paying out more money each time. Having spent 7k with them they might have been inclined to help out gratis, as it seems the problem arose after their work.
I also don’t feel you’re being fair to the place that did the bleed, as you say you didn’t hear from them - if they texted saying it would be sorted, then the next message or contact should be from you, to book the car in, etc.
A Porsche specialist will be able to read codes and clear the warning - sometimes that’s all that is needed.
I contacted the indie that did the £7K work, told them the problem but they never replied. I have been reluctant to ‘name names’ as yet.. but f*ck me I am close!
The 2nd indie who is only 4 miles from me , I didn’t know existed until later. I took the car to him & he pointed out it was almost certainly an air lock. He then drained & refilled.. 8 miles down the road
same thing! The car isn’t overheating, so really I can drive it anywhere than can ‘sort her out’ …. Simples P2181 is a code generated when a mapped temperature isn't reached after a specific run-time/fuel throughput following a cold start
That is why your code/fault occurs repeatedly after a 7-8 mile journey.
P1656 concerns a solenoid valve for the thermal management. 997.1 has very few for that specific purpose - but, on Tiptronic vehicles, the main one controls the coolant shut-off valve for transmission cooling.
The failure of the shut-off valve is generally 'safe' - where the cooling circuit for the transmission remains 'open' and therefore 'cooled'; what that results in is the full flow of coolant around a cold transmission that wicks away the engine temperature while driving - the failure of the circuit (electrically or mechanically) is therefore triggering the P2181 code.
The LTT won't help matters if the thermal management components aren't functioning correctly - its' main function being keeping overall temperatures lower for longer.
IMO:
- The coolant level is not the issue
- The chances of an air lock are low
- The tiptronic cooler circuit solenoid valve is stuck/burnt out/disconnected
Get the solenoid fitment/operation checked and while there check the mechanical shut off valve operation (the internal seal can fail meaning despite correct vacuum application via the solenoid and mechanical operation appearing to open/close - the 'shut-off' function doesn't happen).
That is why your code/fault occurs repeatedly after a 7-8 mile journey.
P1656 concerns a solenoid valve for the thermal management. 997.1 has very few for that specific purpose - but, on Tiptronic vehicles, the main one controls the coolant shut-off valve for transmission cooling.
The failure of the shut-off valve is generally 'safe' - where the cooling circuit for the transmission remains 'open' and therefore 'cooled'; what that results in is the full flow of coolant around a cold transmission that wicks away the engine temperature while driving - the failure of the circuit (electrically or mechanically) is therefore triggering the P2181 code.
The LTT won't help matters if the thermal management components aren't functioning correctly - its' main function being keeping overall temperatures lower for longer.
IMO:
- The coolant level is not the issue
- The chances of an air lock are low
- The tiptronic cooler circuit solenoid valve is stuck/burnt out/disconnected
Get the solenoid fitment/operation checked and while there check the mechanical shut off valve operation (the internal seal can fail meaning despite correct vacuum application via the solenoid and mechanical operation appearing to open/close - the 'shut-off' function doesn't happen).
Pope said:
P2181 is a code generated when a mapped temperature isn't reached after a specific run-time/fuel throughput following a cold start
That is why your code/fault occurs repeatedly after a 7-8 mile journey.
P1656 concerns a solenoid valve for the thermal management. 997.1 has very few for that specific purpose - but, on Tiptronic vehicles, the main one controls the coolant shut-off valve for transmission cooling.
The failure of the shut-off valve is generally 'safe' - where the cooling circuit for the transmission remains 'open' and therefore 'cooled'; what that results in is the full flow of coolant around a cold transmission that wicks away the engine temperature while driving - the failure of the circuit (electrically or mechanically) is therefore triggering the P2181 code.
The LTT won't help matters if the thermal management components aren't functioning correctly - its' main function being keeping overall temperatures lower for longer.
IMO:
- The coolant level is not the issue
- The chances of an air lock are low
- The tiptronic cooler circuit solenoid valve is stuck/burnt out/disconnected
Get the solenoid fitment/operation checked and while there check the mechanical shut off valve operation (the internal seal can fail meaning despite correct vacuum application via the solenoid and mechanical operation appearing to open/close - the 'shut-off' function doesn't happen).
Really good of you to share this.That is why your code/fault occurs repeatedly after a 7-8 mile journey.
P1656 concerns a solenoid valve for the thermal management. 997.1 has very few for that specific purpose - but, on Tiptronic vehicles, the main one controls the coolant shut-off valve for transmission cooling.
The failure of the shut-off valve is generally 'safe' - where the cooling circuit for the transmission remains 'open' and therefore 'cooled'; what that results in is the full flow of coolant around a cold transmission that wicks away the engine temperature while driving - the failure of the circuit (electrically or mechanically) is therefore triggering the P2181 code.
The LTT won't help matters if the thermal management components aren't functioning correctly - its' main function being keeping overall temperatures lower for longer.
IMO:
- The coolant level is not the issue
- The chances of an air lock are low
- The tiptronic cooler circuit solenoid valve is stuck/burnt out/disconnected
Get the solenoid fitment/operation checked and while there check the mechanical shut off valve operation (the internal seal can fail meaning despite correct vacuum application via the solenoid and mechanical operation appearing to open/close - the 'shut-off' function doesn't happen).
One assumes an independent specialist would also be able to interpret these codes.
pete.g said:
Really good of you to share this.
One assumes an independent specialist would also be able to interpret these codes.
If they have access to the manufacturers diagnosis system then I would hope so. One assumes an independent specialist would also be able to interpret these codes.
The P2181 code takes some thinking; it is very often misdiagnosed as a temp sensor or thermostat issue as the usual suspects are guessed at.
With access to datalogging I'd watch the coolant and oil temps from a cold start - coolant should heat quickly to 90C; oil takes longer; if the coolant and oil heat at the same rate it's a sign to look for something amiss.
Mariosbt said:
The car is currently in an OPC where they are investigating (£££££) the issue.
If I were you I would copy & paste Pope’s comments to your Service Rep at the OPC. IMO it is worth them working through these suggestions before doing anything else. The right person at the OPC will know what they are doing… Also I do think your original Indie should have taken responsibility and sorted this out - I am not sure I would be going back there…
RJ5560 said:
If I were you I would copy & paste Pope’s comments to your Service Rep at the OPC. IMO it is worth them working through these suggestions before doing anything else. The right person at the OPC will know what they are doing…
Also I do think your original Indie should have taken responsibility and sorted this out - I am not sure I would be going back there…
I have pretty much decided which Indie it will be going to in future. Unfortunately I only found out about them after I had taken the car to OPC. Also I do think your original Indie should have taken responsibility and sorted this out - I am not sure I would be going back there…
Live & Learn!Yes. The car went from OPC to ‘Unique Porsche’ in Westhoughton, the fella there, Darren, put it on his ramp/lift and immediately spotted something disconnected at the side of the Tiptronic gearbox. He literally had the car sorted in 15 minutes. That’s where it will be going in future.
Can highly recommend Unique Porsche for anything 986/987, 996/997. He knows them inside out.
Can highly recommend Unique Porsche for anything 986/987, 996/997. He knows them inside out.
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