Upgrade options or change car
Discussion
I`m looking to go a bit quicker at the track and would welcome any thoughts on possible upgrades I could make or should I just change cars.
Spec of car at present is;
964C2
AMD custom chip, Mass Air Flow kit and enlarged throttle body. Cat bypass, Blueflame custom silencers. Dyno`d at 298 bhp.
RS flywheel and clutch. 993RS 6spd gearbox.
H+R coilovers lowered approx 35mm
Carrera cups with 17 205/50 and 255/40 Bridgestone SO2 and RUF Speedlines with Michelin Pilot Sport Cups 17 225/45 and 255/40
993tt F calipers 965 discs 965 R calipers 951(RS) discs, Pagid yellow pads
Recaro SPG seats
Weight reduced by approx 75kg
I`m fairly happy with the brakes and transmission.
Potential areas for improvement are
1) drop weight
2) suspension change - H+R`s are a bit soft on track
3) dymags and slicks and race wets on D90`s
4) power increase
I keep thinking of an Exige but there are concerns over engine reliability.
The car needs to remain road legal.
Spec of car at present is;
964C2
AMD custom chip, Mass Air Flow kit and enlarged throttle body. Cat bypass, Blueflame custom silencers. Dyno`d at 298 bhp.
RS flywheel and clutch. 993RS 6spd gearbox.
H+R coilovers lowered approx 35mm
Carrera cups with 17 205/50 and 255/40 Bridgestone SO2 and RUF Speedlines with Michelin Pilot Sport Cups 17 225/45 and 255/40
993tt F calipers 965 discs 965 R calipers 951(RS) discs, Pagid yellow pads
Recaro SPG seats
Weight reduced by approx 75kg
I`m fairly happy with the brakes and transmission.
Potential areas for improvement are
1) drop weight
2) suspension change - H+R`s are a bit soft on track
3) dymags and slicks and race wets on D90`s
4) power increase
I keep thinking of an Exige but there are concerns over engine reliability.
The car needs to remain road legal.
In no particular order:
Atkins diet (car and driver?
), stiffer springs onto existing or revalved shocks, monoball topmounts, 350bhp supercharger OR 450bhp turbo OR 3.8 high rpm race engine; slicks on existing rim sets, stripped out interior with welded in roll cage (to achieve near RS shell stiffness), lightweight doors/bonnet/engine lid.
Just remember the line "Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious" Tony and remember that the only track time you have missed with the Porker has been due to a worn out overused/abused gearbox and brake pads down to metal.
Atkins diet (car and driver?
), stiffer springs onto existing or revalved shocks, monoball topmounts, 350bhp supercharger OR 450bhp turbo OR 3.8 high rpm race engine; slicks on existing rim sets, stripped out interior with welded in roll cage (to achieve near RS shell stiffness), lightweight doors/bonnet/engine lid. Just remember the line "Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious" Tony and remember that the only track time you have missed with the Porker has been due to a worn out overused/abused gearbox and brake pads down to metal.
ninemeister said:
In no particular order:
Atkins diet (car and driver?
Just remember the line "Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious" Tony and remember that the only track time you have missed with the Porker has been due to a worn out overused/abused gearbox and brake pads down to metal.
If you were to put that in order what would it be?
jeremyc said:
Best value in my book is to upgrade the nut behind the wheel. 
Modifications to driver ability can be applied to any car, present or future.
Its well worth seeking instruction, whatever your level of track experience.
I agree.
I should have mentioned I do and will continue to take instruction
I would second the instruction bit, but then again I am stil pretty much a novice with about 6 track days under my belt.
When I sold my 964 I was looking for a track car, and was advised on a numnber of occasions to go for a sorted 944 turbo. Its easy to get 300bhp, not that difficlt to get to 350 bhp and staightforwward to stiffen. It also sheds loads of weight by simply taking out the seats and holds a set of slicks on the boot. The other benefit if that compared to a 911 most jobs seem so much cheaper so you can do so much more for any given budget.
I took the advice and do find it faster than my 964 on the track, though only in the dry and on proper tyres. A Porsche cup driver recenty told me these vare still the cars to beat - and I'd gone to see him to buy a 968.
On the road I don;t like it that much as so much time is spent trundling around 'off boost'. On the track it can be pretty impressive on the right hands (not mine!)
When I sold my 964 I was looking for a track car, and was advised on a numnber of occasions to go for a sorted 944 turbo. Its easy to get 300bhp, not that difficlt to get to 350 bhp and staightforwward to stiffen. It also sheds loads of weight by simply taking out the seats and holds a set of slicks on the boot. The other benefit if that compared to a 911 most jobs seem so much cheaper so you can do so much more for any given budget.
I took the advice and do find it faster than my 964 on the track, though only in the dry and on proper tyres. A Porsche cup driver recenty told me these vare still the cars to beat - and I'd gone to see him to buy a 968.
On the road I don;t like it that much as so much time is spent trundling around 'off boost'. On the track it can be pretty impressive on the right hands (not mine!)
Colin, a cage is a definately on my future shopping list, as much for shell rigidity/handling as for safety. Any idea how much to weld in a cage that goes right through to suspension points front and back and has removable door beams? (for when you have to ferry your mum to the airport :-)
Fox
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964C2
Fox
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964C2
A fully welded in cage, similar to the 964RS Clubsport, will set you back around £2000 BUT you will have to completely gut the car to a shell to allow the fabricator to get in and do his job without setting the thing on fire. If you sub out the strip and refit, add at least another £1000-1500 or so PLUS the cost of painting it.
Failing this, a good quality Safety Devices or similar complete bolt in cage (front, rear, door bars)that clears all trim & has mounting points welded into the floor will cost around £1000 fitted.
Failing this, a good quality Safety Devices or similar complete bolt in cage (front, rear, door bars)that clears all trim & has mounting points welded into the floor will cost around £1000 fitted.
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