For the love of Tuscan (project build)
Discussion
Seat base bolster repairs
I haven't said this so far but I really like the simple construction of these seats which make them a lot lighter than a normal car seat even though they are not your typical lightweight shell type bucket recliner.
But as with all seats with thigh hugging bolsters the foam tends to crumble with use as you climb in and out, this happens on the RH bolster on the driver’s seat and LH on the passenger seat.
The round bar in the thigh bolster does a good job of supporting the foam which means they aren't too bad and are straight forward to repair. The damaged foam is cut away and the exposed round bar is treated with Kurust as, with all bare metal on this car, it was slightly rusty...
Then 2 pieces of high-density foam cut to shape with a V groove down the centre that will sandwich the wire top and bottom...
All bonded in place with contact adhesive then shaped ready for the re-trim...
I haven't said this so far but I really like the simple construction of these seats which make them a lot lighter than a normal car seat even though they are not your typical lightweight shell type bucket recliner.
But as with all seats with thigh hugging bolsters the foam tends to crumble with use as you climb in and out, this happens on the RH bolster on the driver’s seat and LH on the passenger seat.
The round bar in the thigh bolster does a good job of supporting the foam which means they aren't too bad and are straight forward to repair. The damaged foam is cut away and the exposed round bar is treated with Kurust as, with all bare metal on this car, it was slightly rusty...
Then 2 pieces of high-density foam cut to shape with a V groove down the centre that will sandwich the wire top and bottom...
All bonded in place with contact adhesive then shaped ready for the re-trim...
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 22:05
Mini update on what’s going on with the rest of the Tuscan. Spoke with the guys at the bodyshop this morning and showed them pictures of what I've been doing, they reciprocated by showing me pics of a classic Citroen DS estate (not the usual slick coupe 4 door) they've just restored, one of five RHD version's left if I remember correctly, in bright yellow with yellow leather! I think they're as excited to get their hands on my Tuscan and do it justice as I am, soo nice to deal with guys like this that are enthusiasts as well. They're only down the road so they will be popping round next week to take a look at the Tuscan so they can give me a proper idea of costs.
Getting the interior ready for the re-trim. Pretty sure I will be covering most of the interior with Alcantara like synthetic suede instead of carpet everywhere, and just carpet on the floor with some synthetic leather in the footwells for practicality of cleaning. Will be a shame to cover the heat shielding up...
Ok, anyone guess what these are and what I've used them for...
Getting the interior ready for the re-trim. Pretty sure I will be covering most of the interior with Alcantara like synthetic suede instead of carpet everywhere, and just carpet on the floor with some synthetic leather in the footwells for practicality of cleaning. Will be a shame to cover the heat shielding up...
Ok, anyone guess what these are and what I've used them for...
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 22:08
Rear screen quick release pins
So TwinKam guessed what they are. These are quick release bonnet pins and I thought they would be perfect for holding the rear screen in place…
As I've been getting to know my Tuscan I've got used to TVRs quirky design features, most of which I find refreshingly simple and different to how any other car maker would do things, but, I just wasn't comfortable with the way the rear screen was 'held', not 'fixed' but held in place with stories of them blowing out at high speeds.
My Tuscan had the original plastic clips, or what was left of them, they didn't function at all so they were removed and I started scratching my head as to a simple but 'mechanical' method of properly fixing the screen in place, and with adjustment built in. I wanted something that wasn't going to 'hang-off' or protrude from the screen when it was removed so it wouldn't get damaged or damage the screen. So, after trawling the internet for ideas as soon as I saw these bonnet pins I was sold, they're made from anodised alloy and the adjustable pin from stainless steel so should last forever, and they're available in loads of colours to either stand out, match your paint or in black as I've fitted to just blend in. And the best thing is they’re a tenner a pair…
These are 32mm head size, you can get a smaller 22mm version but think the larger size will help spread any loading better through the Perspex.
The second best thing is they're pretty straight forward to fit...
The rear screen will be replaced as it is badly cracked and scuffed by the boot lid making contact with it when closing, which is something else I will be fixing as I'm not going to fit a new screen for it to end up looking like this one after a few months. So I had the luxury of being able to experiment with different fixing methods if this doesn't work.
The pins will be roughly the same location laterally as the factory clips, but offset enough so the back of the latch doesn't touch the interior trim when locked in place, the angle of the pin needs to be as close to 90deg to the angle of the rear screen as possible so the latch functions as it should. Drill a hole at the correct angle through the trim/GRP into the boot, and hold the pin in place...
Then on the underside I bonded a wingnut in place...
When both sides are done you can position the screen and mark the pin centres on the screen
Then drill the Perspex and bolt the latch in place and fit the screen.
One of the things I wasn't sure about was how water tight they would be so tried wetting them and leaving overnight with tissue on the inside of the screen but the tolerances appear tight enough not to let water through when locked in place.
So, I'm pretty chuffed with these, and I don't think they detract from the clutter free styling of the Tuscan and most importantly they actually do a solid job of holding the screen in place. Just a push on the centre releases each pin and a gentle push back down locks the screen in place. You can adjust the length of the pin so the screen seals nicely. I think I’ll be rolling this out to my new screen…
So TwinKam guessed what they are. These are quick release bonnet pins and I thought they would be perfect for holding the rear screen in place…
As I've been getting to know my Tuscan I've got used to TVRs quirky design features, most of which I find refreshingly simple and different to how any other car maker would do things, but, I just wasn't comfortable with the way the rear screen was 'held', not 'fixed' but held in place with stories of them blowing out at high speeds.
My Tuscan had the original plastic clips, or what was left of them, they didn't function at all so they were removed and I started scratching my head as to a simple but 'mechanical' method of properly fixing the screen in place, and with adjustment built in. I wanted something that wasn't going to 'hang-off' or protrude from the screen when it was removed so it wouldn't get damaged or damage the screen. So, after trawling the internet for ideas as soon as I saw these bonnet pins I was sold, they're made from anodised alloy and the adjustable pin from stainless steel so should last forever, and they're available in loads of colours to either stand out, match your paint or in black as I've fitted to just blend in. And the best thing is they’re a tenner a pair…
These are 32mm head size, you can get a smaller 22mm version but think the larger size will help spread any loading better through the Perspex.
The second best thing is they're pretty straight forward to fit...
The rear screen will be replaced as it is badly cracked and scuffed by the boot lid making contact with it when closing, which is something else I will be fixing as I'm not going to fit a new screen for it to end up looking like this one after a few months. So I had the luxury of being able to experiment with different fixing methods if this doesn't work.
The pins will be roughly the same location laterally as the factory clips, but offset enough so the back of the latch doesn't touch the interior trim when locked in place, the angle of the pin needs to be as close to 90deg to the angle of the rear screen as possible so the latch functions as it should. Drill a hole at the correct angle through the trim/GRP into the boot, and hold the pin in place...
Then on the underside I bonded a wingnut in place...
When both sides are done you can position the screen and mark the pin centres on the screen
Then drill the Perspex and bolt the latch in place and fit the screen.
One of the things I wasn't sure about was how water tight they would be so tried wetting them and leaving overnight with tissue on the inside of the screen but the tolerances appear tight enough not to let water through when locked in place.
So, I'm pretty chuffed with these, and I don't think they detract from the clutter free styling of the Tuscan and most importantly they actually do a solid job of holding the screen in place. Just a push on the centre releases each pin and a gentle push back down locks the screen in place. You can adjust the length of the pin so the screen seals nicely. I think I’ll be rolling this out to my new screen…
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 22:17
From what I can make out, the boot lid scuffing the rear screen is common and I don't know if it was intentional at the factory to help hold the screen in place or whether it's just down to poor fitting/mould irregularities but it's not what I would call an acceptable panel to panel relationship!
The RH boot hinge on my Tuscan was bent from the rear impact it suffered and the gas strut was shot so removed all the boot lid hardware including the latch and then spent hours trying to work out (with new hinges) how to make it all work without scuffing the screen, even with minimal screen rubber seals so the screen sat slightly lower there just wasn't enough clearance and the only way to make it work was to re-profile the boot lid...
The RH boot hinge on my Tuscan was bent from the rear impact it suffered and the gas strut was shot so removed all the boot lid hardware including the latch and then spent hours trying to work out (with new hinges) how to make it all work without scuffing the screen, even with minimal screen rubber seals so the screen sat slightly lower there just wasn't enough clearance and the only way to make it work was to re-profile the boot lid...
Later versions, possibly all, had a strip of self adhesive neoprene type material along the back edge of the boot. It would compress and push the rear screen. Allowed water to run down the side channels and not off bottom of screen. If neoprene or screen was dirty, it would scratch and craze.
On my 2000 Tuscan the clips were moved slightly more outward to try and prevent the screen to boot lid contact, it did work for a while although as the clips aged the same problem occurred. On my last Tuscan I fitted the metal clips and had no issues, good to see a different fixing solution.
seat hoop retrim
So, this was the condition of the driver’s seat RH bolster
And this what it looks like after a visit to Gliptone. Not bad, obviously the leather is starting to look quite dry so it will be getting a good feed when this is all done...
And this is the new hoop foam from Central TVR bolted to the frame making the job a lot easier...
The refreshed leather cover loosely fitted
Then with a needle (blunt is best) and strong thread start weaving between the thread hoops on each side of the seem to pull the cover together
Now I have to admit, by this point, just one side done I wasn't happy with the quality of my threading (you need to keep tension on the thread by tying knots periodically and my knots weren't very good...) so I did the next best thing...and handed it to the misses...who proceeded to undo it all and spent several hours doing a perfect job, which was a nice...but unfortunately I forgot to take any pics before moving onto the next steps so you'll have to take my word for it...
So, this was the condition of the driver’s seat RH bolster
And this what it looks like after a visit to Gliptone. Not bad, obviously the leather is starting to look quite dry so it will be getting a good feed when this is all done...
And this is the new hoop foam from Central TVR bolted to the frame making the job a lot easier...
The refreshed leather cover loosely fitted
Then with a needle (blunt is best) and strong thread start weaving between the thread hoops on each side of the seem to pull the cover together
Now I have to admit, by this point, just one side done I wasn't happy with the quality of my threading (you need to keep tension on the thread by tying knots periodically and my knots weren't very good...) so I did the next best thing...and handed it to the misses...who proceeded to undo it all and spent several hours doing a perfect job, which was a nice...but unfortunately I forgot to take any pics before moving onto the next steps so you'll have to take my word for it...
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 22:24
Modrich said:
seat hoop retrim
So, this was the condition of the driver’s seat RH bolster
And this what it looks like after a visit to Gliptone. Not bad, obviously the leather is starting to look quite dry so it will be getting a good feed when this is all done...
And this is the new hoop foam from Central TVR bolted to the frame making the job a lot easier...
The refreshed leather cover loosely fitted
Then with a needle (blunt is best) and strong thread start weaving between the thread hoops on each side of the seem to pull the cover together
Now I have to admit, by this point, just one side done I wasn't happy with the quality of my threading (you need to keep tension on the thread by tying knots periodically and my knots weren't very good...) so I did the next best thing...and handed it to the misses...who proceeded to undo it all and spent several hours doing a perfect job, which was a nice...but unfortunately I forgot to take any pics before moving onto the next steps so you'll have to take my word for it...
Lucky man with a wife like that!So, this was the condition of the driver’s seat RH bolster
And this what it looks like after a visit to Gliptone. Not bad, obviously the leather is starting to look quite dry so it will be getting a good feed when this is all done...
And this is the new hoop foam from Central TVR bolted to the frame making the job a lot easier...
The refreshed leather cover loosely fitted
Then with a needle (blunt is best) and strong thread start weaving between the thread hoops on each side of the seem to pull the cover together
Now I have to admit, by this point, just one side done I wasn't happy with the quality of my threading (you need to keep tension on the thread by tying knots periodically and my knots weren't very good...) so I did the next best thing...and handed it to the misses...who proceeded to undo it all and spent several hours doing a perfect job, which was a nice...but unfortunately I forgot to take any pics before moving onto the next steps so you'll have to take my word for it...
Yeah should be fine. If it was in an area like the lumber region or where you sit on it might be too firm but bolsters won't matter and take a lot of abuse so firmer the better. You'll find shaping the foam easiest with a large fine hacksaw blade so you can shape gradually. Don't use a knife blade as it's easy to gouge out too much. Make sure the shaped surface is nice and smooth otherwise any lumps or bumps will show through the leather. You can smooth and seal the finished surface with a hot air gun then smooth it out with a scraper or blunt knife, try it on offcuts first though.
You might get away with only unstitching part way up the side bolster, just enough so you can peel back the leather past the damaged foam. Tie a tight knot with some thread across the existing hoops/thread at the point where you are going up to so you don't lose tension all the way up seam.
Hope this helps
You might get away with only unstitching part way up the side bolster, just enough so you can peel back the leather past the damaged foam. Tie a tight knot with some thread across the existing hoops/thread at the point where you are going up to so you don't lose tension all the way up seam.
Hope this helps
Heated seat pads and seat rebuild.
Just to get the seats wrapped-up here's the heated seat pads fitted to the seat back cushions, similar was done for the seat base cushions, but instead of having the cushion sown back up afterwards I had a zip fitted for easy access to the cushion and heater pad if needed. The heater pad cable for the upper section is fed through a hole to the back of the cushion ready to connect to the loom.
The leather seat covers and foam are fitted to the hoop frame with hog rings, and rather than use the factory Velcro to hold the shape of curved contour (which just comes unstuck) in the backrest I used cord attached to the back of the seam and pulled through the foam which is a more secure method similar what is used in modern seats.
Seat base rebuilt
Seats ready to go...
Just to get the seats wrapped-up here's the heated seat pads fitted to the seat back cushions, similar was done for the seat base cushions, but instead of having the cushion sown back up afterwards I had a zip fitted for easy access to the cushion and heater pad if needed. The heater pad cable for the upper section is fed through a hole to the back of the cushion ready to connect to the loom.
The leather seat covers and foam are fitted to the hoop frame with hog rings, and rather than use the factory Velcro to hold the shape of curved contour (which just comes unstuck) in the backrest I used cord attached to the back of the seam and pulled through the foam which is a more secure method similar what is used in modern seats.
Seat base rebuilt
Seats ready to go...
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 22:58
You couldn't do it without removing the seat back pad and leather cover (no need to touch the hoop part of the seat back) but it's not as bad as it sounds, you just need hog rings/pliers to re-attach the leather cover to the seat frame. I didn't make it clear above but I used 2 separate heater pads for each backrest cut down then I made up a loom to connect them both together. 1 pad cut down for the base cushion. Still not made my mind up where to mount the switches yet but I'll cross that bridge when the interior install kicks off.
The heater pads don't interfere with the lumber bladder as this sits at the back of the seat cushion between the cushion and plastic shell. The pads don't get hot enough to melt anything...just your buttocks
The heater pads don't interfere with the lumber bladder as this sits at the back of the seat cushion between the cushion and plastic shell. The pads don't get hot enough to melt anything...just your buttocks
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