For the love of Tuscan (project build)

[Modrich]

Interesting thanks BB. I intend on checking everything and seeing how it drives before I strip the suspension.

[Modrich]

Battery area and power cables

Some surface corrosion present here...




I will be relocating the entry point for the 12v cables into the passenger footwell so the patch in the middle is for filling in the original entry point with filler/fibreglass


12v cable to starter is also being re-routed behind the dash to tidy-up the engine bay and take it away from heat sources. I was very happy to see this go along with the itch inducing glass wrap...






All power and earth cables removed to make way for new...


Tools and treatment for rusty chassis...


After rust is removed, Kurust is applied...




Silver Hammerite 2 coats


Toplac Atlantic Grey Marine enamel applied which is very good match for factory grey powder coat finish


original 12v cable entry point to passenger footwell filled

[Modrich]

HVAC system stripdown and clean

Removing the heating and cooling matrix



to reveal the mixing plenum and flap motor


Removal of the fan access panel was fun. It was glued in place with 20year old silicone...



Fan removed



And fan connector


Fan details


Works fine but needs a clean and bearings oiled


Cleaned, reassembled and waterproof connector fitted



Re-fitted


Fresh foam gasket tape...


...applied around plenum



and mixing flap



New stainless hinge bolts for Cerakoted panel and flap...


re-fitting plenum panel and flap



AC compressor clutch. When I received the Tuscan I wondered why the ac compressor belt had been removed. Turned out to be because the clutch bearings were knacked and would have been very noisy...


Clutch removed and stripped. This is beyond rescuing. A new one is required but they don't seem to be available separately, only as a complete unit with the compressor...


clutch wheel for the bin...


I managed to find a virtually brand new AC compressor with clutch on eBay alot cheaper than a new one so I will be swapping the clutch over at some point

[Modrich]

Lambda wiring mod and re-route

So according to Stunned Monkeys post here, https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... the 3 and 4 wire Lambdas benefit from improved grounding for the Black earth wires from the lambda sensors. My Tuscan is an early 2000 so it has the 3 wire lambdas. Also, as I work through the various items to fix/clean/refurb I'm always thinking about how to make improvements and simplify/tidy-up and I didn't like how the lambda sensor cables ran from the engine loom on top of the engine, piggybacked onto the heater matrix feed pipe around the top of the engine then down past the exhaust headers through a hole into the battery area to the lambdas. I preferred to run them from the lambdas into the battery area and through into the passenger footwell then behind the dash to the ECU harness. So, this is how I did it...

Wiring diagram


MBE ECU harness pinouts


First trace the 4 lambda wires (Earth, Red heater, and yellow odds and white evens) to the ECU main plug, then piggyback from these wires at the harness plug behind the dash to form a new feed to the lambda sensors that can be run behind the dash and through into the battery area...



New connector pin with piggyback cable




New waterproof connectors...




fitted with earth wire tail for connecting to the chassis


Corresponding plugs fitted to the lambda wires




I have left the original lambda cables connected to the engine loom until I'm happy everything is working fine, if it is I with cut them off.

[Modrich]

MBE ECU Dallas chip upgrade

Replacing the Dallas chip inside the ECU is considered good practice as over time the chips or internal chip battery can fail meaning that engine data is no longer stored. Chips are pretty cheap and faster ones are available now, it's easy to do so it's a no-brainer...

ECU in drivers footwell behind the fuse box


Long reach 1/4" ratchet is a god send when loosening the 2 bolts on the ECU bracket. The ECU slides out, you don't need to fully remove the bracket.


ECU removed


Connector pins all look rust free and clean


Cover removed


Confirms mine is a standard non S Tuscan


Original Dallas DS1230AB chip, the '200' refers to the access speed in ns, the lower the number the faster the chip. The new chip is 70ns.


New Dallas chip


Pack of 4, just in case...


Easy to install


ECU ready to re-fit


Anyone know what the 2pin plug is for?

This is hopefully the 3 pin ECU diagnostics plug, can anyone confirm?

[Basil Brush]

As the correct 3 wire lambda sensors are no longer available, you may be worth converting to the 4 wire versions which are available. The standard TVR ones need larger bosses in the manifolds but you can get 4 wire titania sensors with the same smaller boss size as the 3 wires.

[Modrich]

Yeah I've read this, I will see how everything performs first, thanks BB

[Modrich]

Brakes refresh

The purpose here is to make the brakes serviceable but I will be fully stripping the callipers and putting in new seals and lines etc when I tackle the suspension later in the year.

Front callipers and pads are good just require a light clean and pads wire brushed





Front discs are also perfectly serviceable, rust removed with a wire brush and treated with Kurust




A small lip on the backside of the disc is ground off


Discs then sprayed with high temp satin black and black alloy 3mm spacers fitted to help with bump steer



Rear discs are badly corroded and scored so new ones will be fitted



Rear pads are not worth saving either


Rear callipers just need a clean for now



New standard Ferodo rear pads


old verses new


Discs painted and pads/callipers refitted

[Modrich]

Spark plugs and cover

So, to remove the spark plug cover there are 3 cap screws and lots of silicone. Not my idea of easy access for regular maintenance, but I'll come back to this shortly...


Cover removed, leads are in very good condition


Special thin spark plug socket is needed as the plug tubes are tapered and very tight at the bottom.


Plugs removed, all look ok but plugs 1 & 2 have oil gunk above the washer which suggests the valve cover O-rings(?) or gasket must be leaking slightly. I plan on removing the cover and refurbing it when I do the engine clean-up.


Plug No.2 gunk


So, as I said, I don't like how the cover is sealed with silicone making it a pain to remove and refit so I'll be trying this silicone foam strip to see if it provides an adequate heat resistant re-useable seal.



Titanium rainbow cap screws for a bit of under bonnet bling...


Vapour blasted cover ready for paint when I decide what colour it will be


Cap screws fitted

[BEARDYB0Y]

More fantastic progress!

Those screws go very nicely with the paint colour! Hopefully this will be the year I'll finally get my engine bay tidied up with cam and plug cover mods.

Really interested to see how well the silicone foam strip works. It would be nice to find a way to avoid using messy sealant on nice new covers.

[mk1fan]

Where did you get the silicone / foam strip from? Service due in three weeks so would like to take the opportunity to try it.

[PeteS2k]

With the silicone strip sealing the inside edge of those channels, will there still be a water-trap? Of course, if it's a good seal, the water won't go anywhere unwanted...

[Modrich]

I bought 3m so might have enough left over for another, I will check. I got it from Aliexpress.

My plan its to bond it in place with with silicon sealant when I've refurbed the valve cover so there shouldn't be any areas for water to collect.

[Granturadriver]

Your report is so detailed and good that I will print it out and keep it for my records!

I have carefully cut the cover over the spark plugs from the silicone. The silicone works great as a seal for me. I don't need anything else to seal it.

[Modrich]

BEARDYB0Y said:

More fantastic progress!

Those screws go very nicely with the paint colour! Hopefully this will be the year I'll finally get my engine bay tidied up with cam and plug cover mods.

Really interested to see how well the silicone foam strip works. It would be nice to find a way to avoid using messy sealant on nice new covers.

Thanks BB, I will keep you updated

[Modrich]

Granturadriver said:

Your report is so detailed and good that I will print it out and keep it for my records!

I have carefully cut the cover over the spark plugs from the silicone. The silicone works great as a seal for me. I don't need anything else to seal it.

Thanks Grantura

[TUS373]

Very much enjoying this rebuild. I think you are making the car better than new, with smart improvements in places.

Wish I had the skill, time, patience and motivation to do similar. May be one day.

[Modrich]

Thanks very much TUS373, much appreciated

[Modrich]

Collected my newly refurbed wheels (x6) today, Bola Matt Bronze with Conti Sport Contact 7...




A major step closer to getting the Tuscan on the road...literally

[Modrich]

I thought an update was long overdue. Sorry I've not been doing my usual detailed updates, I've been focussed on just getting it on the road, which actually doesn't seem far off, just in time for the cold weather...

all body panels are fitted, LED lights, mirrors & tinted door glass...





Interior almost there


fuel pump relocation complete and engine runs sweet...


More updates coming soon....