For the love of Tuscan (project build)
Discussion
s6boy said:
Really enjoy following your thread Modrich and a couple of questions.
Do you feel the time and effort to re-engineer the rear window and boot lid were worth it? I think I must have one of the larger windows because even at silly speed it's been fine and I'm pretty sure the boot lid was designed to hold it in.
How are you planning to store the roof in the boot, retrofit the stud by the lock?
Thanks s6boy, much appreciated.Do you feel the time and effort to re-engineer the rear window and boot lid were worth it? I think I must have one of the larger windows because even at silly speed it's been fine and I'm pretty sure the boot lid was designed to hold it in.
How are you planning to store the roof in the boot, retrofit the stud by the lock?
I'm as confident as I can be in the screen latches, without having tested them at speed, but see no reason for them to unlatch by themselves as it's a strong spring that locks them in place. I've tried pulling up on the screen to see if they're up to the job and think the screen would break before the latches give way. If the latches are as strong as they appear, then there seems no reason for the boot lid to hold the screen in place and cause scuffing. Remember, these latches are designed to hold a heavy bonnet down, not a lightweight rear screen. The only thing is if the air pressure in the cockpit was massively higher that the pressure on the outside then it could in theory force the screen off, but then your ears would probably be bleeding at that point and you'd be advised to backoff from 180mph...
I've got a new lightly tinted rear screen from TVRParts that is the newer, larger size, seems to fit better, slightly wider but doesn't seem much deeper, ie. doesn't extend any further under the boot lid as far as I can see. I won't be drilling this for the latches until the car is painted and boot lid re-fitted and old screen tested though...
As for the roof storage in the boot, I will come up with a bracket design when I'm at that stage which is a fair way off yet...
Arrh yes I see the Baroque influences now and explains the design choices, much like here in Edinburgh, Scotland with the Tartan influence, not to my taste being from Manchester but if everyone had the same taste it would be a very boring world!
I haven’t started on the interior re-trim yet Raffaele, again this will start after the bodywork is painted but I will be lining the whole interior and boot with 5mm closed cell foam much like yours then sticking the Alcantara to it.
One idea I took from your retrim was to insulate the fuel tank firstly with Dynamat then with foam. I assume this is to reduce 'sloshing’ sounds from the fuel and stop any future corrosion to the outside of the tank as when stripping my tank I noted minor surface corrosion on the back where there is no carpet fix to it, must be due to condensation forming on the cold metal.
More pics from your Facebook page...
You should post pics of your car with the interior complete Raffaele
I haven’t started on the interior re-trim yet Raffaele, again this will start after the bodywork is painted but I will be lining the whole interior and boot with 5mm closed cell foam much like yours then sticking the Alcantara to it.
One idea I took from your retrim was to insulate the fuel tank firstly with Dynamat then with foam. I assume this is to reduce 'sloshing’ sounds from the fuel and stop any future corrosion to the outside of the tank as when stripping my tank I noted minor surface corrosion on the back where there is no carpet fix to it, must be due to condensation forming on the cold metal.
More pics from your Facebook page...
You should post pics of your car with the interior complete Raffaele
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 18:46
PG thanks for your positivity and support, everyone restoring a car at home needs this in spades.
s6boy, I have been wondering about relocating the battery to the boot do you have a thread/details on it? I have been looking at possible LiFePO4 batteries that are about 1/2 the size/weight but I have so much going on that this is a back burner job.
I've not heard of this 'stretchy boot' phenomenon and haven't seen any signs of it on mine, maybe only manifests itself when carrying dead bodies around in the boot… But as you say, the boot sides would be the place to add strength if it was needed and tied back into the internal cage up in the boot corners. One thing I did note was how flimsy/bendy the rear deck/drain channel is at the base of the rear screen. I have added an additional layer of fibreglass to the underside (accessed from within the boot when the carpet above the fuel tank is removed) which has helped, but I think the best way would be to add a kind of 'rear strut brace' between the previously mentioned inner cage points to provide support for the rear deck, so when climbing in through the rear screen to open the doors when your battery goes dead you don't crack the rear deck...
s6boy, I have been wondering about relocating the battery to the boot do you have a thread/details on it? I have been looking at possible LiFePO4 batteries that are about 1/2 the size/weight but I have so much going on that this is a back burner job.
I've not heard of this 'stretchy boot' phenomenon and haven't seen any signs of it on mine, maybe only manifests itself when carrying dead bodies around in the boot… But as you say, the boot sides would be the place to add strength if it was needed and tied back into the internal cage up in the boot corners. One thing I did note was how flimsy/bendy the rear deck/drain channel is at the base of the rear screen. I have added an additional layer of fibreglass to the underside (accessed from within the boot when the carpet above the fuel tank is removed) which has helped, but I think the best way would be to add a kind of 'rear strut brace' between the previously mentioned inner cage points to provide support for the rear deck, so when climbing in through the rear screen to open the doors when your battery goes dead you don't crack the rear deck...
So I've been scratching my head as to which of the dozens of tasks I've completed to write-up next, so thought I'd focus on the interior switches and controls...
Centre console switches refurbishment and door/boot release mod
I noted that the window rotary switches were a little hit & miss for raising/lowering the windows and the extra door release 'push' function built into these rotary switches didn't work on the drivers side either also the green LEDs didn't work. So, I set about investigating...
I removed the driver and passenger side panels...
To reveal corroded LED pins...
So I started to take everything apart
First up, fixing the combined window rotary/door release push button switches. By closing the 4x 'V' shaped metal tabs on the switch chassis, the rotary top section of the switch can be removed revealing the potentiometer 'wheel' and copper leaf spring contacts that can be cleaned with switch contact cleaner. You can also try bending the copper leaf spring contacts so they contact the potentiometer wheel with more force creating a more positive response when operating the windows.
The next layer is the push button part of the switch. Pulling the green plastic cover up on one side reveals the plastic & metal discs. You can see the black carbon build-up in the centre of the metal disc and also on the centre contact on the switch printed circuit that need cleaning with contact cleaner. That's the switch sorted.
Next is replacing the green window LED. The LED needs to be 12v compatible, I couldn't find any low output (not too bright) 12v LEDs, most are 3-6v these days so had to use ones pre-wired and pre-soldered with a resister inline...
LED wires cut back and mounted to existing stand-off LED holder
Switch and LED mounted back on the panel
Hot glue gun used to hold the LED in place and cover the bare LED wires onto the circuit board.
Switches sorted and knobs/panels all cleaned, I repainted any faded black symbols on the knobs. Note the additional green/blue LED for the factory Air Conditioning.
Now I have additional functioning door release buttons, that I don't really need, as well as the buttons either side of the stereo, it got me thinking that I could turn the passenger side into a door lock/unlock (currently provided by the alarm LED button next to the steering column) and the driver’s side into a boot release.
For the door lock/unlock you need to re-route the blue wires that connect to the alarm LED (found under the dash top panel)
...to the centre console multiplug (car side, on the right in the picture, there are spare pin locations) then find the orange/white wire from the passenger side window rotary push button (that go into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
For the boot release, when installing the new alarm I had to run a new black wire from the alarm module to the passenger door module and connect it to the black/red wire that comes from the boot lid badge release microswitch
Shown here removed from the multiplug
Then I connected the new black alarm wire and an additional black wire for the console boot release switch into the same pin
Then connected the additional console boot release black wire to another spare pin on the console multiplug (car side), then find the orange/white wire from the driver’s side window rotary push button (that goes into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
The orange/white wires shown in the original positions, top left, top right.
So now I have boot release and door lock/unlock on the centre console.
The old red alarm LED from the factory door lock/unlock switch that I made redundant can now be repositioned using a new LED to the dashtop so it's more visible from outside rather than being hidden down by the steering column.
Next up, dash pod/switches refurb
Centre console switches refurbishment and door/boot release mod
I noted that the window rotary switches were a little hit & miss for raising/lowering the windows and the extra door release 'push' function built into these rotary switches didn't work on the drivers side either also the green LEDs didn't work. So, I set about investigating...
I removed the driver and passenger side panels...
To reveal corroded LED pins...
So I started to take everything apart
First up, fixing the combined window rotary/door release push button switches. By closing the 4x 'V' shaped metal tabs on the switch chassis, the rotary top section of the switch can be removed revealing the potentiometer 'wheel' and copper leaf spring contacts that can be cleaned with switch contact cleaner. You can also try bending the copper leaf spring contacts so they contact the potentiometer wheel with more force creating a more positive response when operating the windows.
The next layer is the push button part of the switch. Pulling the green plastic cover up on one side reveals the plastic & metal discs. You can see the black carbon build-up in the centre of the metal disc and also on the centre contact on the switch printed circuit that need cleaning with contact cleaner. That's the switch sorted.
Next is replacing the green window LED. The LED needs to be 12v compatible, I couldn't find any low output (not too bright) 12v LEDs, most are 3-6v these days so had to use ones pre-wired and pre-soldered with a resister inline...
LED wires cut back and mounted to existing stand-off LED holder
Switch and LED mounted back on the panel
Hot glue gun used to hold the LED in place and cover the bare LED wires onto the circuit board.
Switches sorted and knobs/panels all cleaned, I repainted any faded black symbols on the knobs. Note the additional green/blue LED for the factory Air Conditioning.
Now I have additional functioning door release buttons, that I don't really need, as well as the buttons either side of the stereo, it got me thinking that I could turn the passenger side into a door lock/unlock (currently provided by the alarm LED button next to the steering column) and the driver’s side into a boot release.
For the door lock/unlock you need to re-route the blue wires that connect to the alarm LED (found under the dash top panel)
...to the centre console multiplug (car side, on the right in the picture, there are spare pin locations) then find the orange/white wire from the passenger side window rotary push button (that go into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
For the boot release, when installing the new alarm I had to run a new black wire from the alarm module to the passenger door module and connect it to the black/red wire that comes from the boot lid badge release microswitch
Shown here removed from the multiplug
Then I connected the new black alarm wire and an additional black wire for the console boot release switch into the same pin
Then connected the additional console boot release black wire to another spare pin on the console multiplug (car side), then find the orange/white wire from the driver’s side window rotary push button (that goes into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
The orange/white wires shown in the original positions, top left, top right.
So now I have boot release and door lock/unlock on the centre console.
The old red alarm LED from the factory door lock/unlock switch that I made redundant can now be repositioned using a new LED to the dashtop so it's more visible from outside rather than being hidden down by the steering column.
Next up, dash pod/switches refurb
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 19:01
Malcster said:
I'm sure I read somewhere the push-to-open-door of the window rotary switches was something TVR removed on laster models as people were often nudging them with their knees, and popping doors open unexpectedly!
I'd often thought of repurposing it as a heated seat on/off or something.
Yeah, I did think initially if it was a good idea to have them as a door release, and why TVR had 2 ways to release the doors, so that answers that question. You could use the momentary switch for anything really, add a relay to toggle the heated seats on/off but most these days have 2 or 3 temperature settings not just on/off.I'd often thought of repurposing it as a heated seat on/off or something.
NCE 61 said:
That’s correct and this also involved changing the radio pod on early cars for one with the door opening buttons. The rotary switches for door opening were disabled on my 2000 Tuscan.
Even though later cars may have the function disabled the switch push function is probably still there so could be put to use.Snaaakeey said:
Wish the rotary knob push action would make the windows go all the way down or all the way up. That would need a reprogram I suspect.
The new alarm I fitted has total closure so closes the windows if left open so don't see why a window closure button couldn't be added using the method that the alarm uses, or even open, if the function can be reversed, something I might look into into at some point...So I have a confession, the Tuscan has been at the bodyshop for quite a while now, they collected it on a flatbed...
They've been dropping onto it in between jobs but will be taking it up a gear over the next week or two to get it completed. To be honest I didn't want it back as while it's been away I've been building it a new home and should have that finished just in time for its return, pics to follow.
Here's some pics from the bodyshop. Since taking these it's been sanded back ready for primer next week...
More updates on this soon hopefully.
They've been dropping onto it in between jobs but will be taking it up a gear over the next week or two to get it completed. To be honest I didn't want it back as while it's been away I've been building it a new home and should have that finished just in time for its return, pics to follow.
Here's some pics from the bodyshop. Since taking these it's been sanded back ready for primer next week...
More updates on this soon hopefully.
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 19:10
Garage is almost done...
Epoxy floor going down tomorrow and electrics to finish.
And the Tuscan is back! Haven't really touched it since it arrived as concentrating on the garage. Very happy with the colour although they appear to have rushed the flatten and polish as there's still some orange peel effect so the painter has offered to do it in my garage at some point.
Hopefully back on track with updates soon.
Epoxy floor going down tomorrow and electrics to finish.
And the Tuscan is back! Haven't really touched it since it arrived as concentrating on the garage. Very happy with the colour although they appear to have rushed the flatten and polish as there's still some orange peel effect so the painter has offered to do it in my garage at some point.
Hopefully back on track with updates soon.
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 19:12
Hi all, sorry there's been no posts from me for a while. I am progressing slowly taking into account work and school holidays.Brakes/steering rack mod/engine bay/cooling/oil system overhall nearly complete with alloy tanks and oil cooler looking like new, re-routed lambda and 12v cabling through cabin now complete and trying to get started on the interior so I can get the dash back in and get the think started and just can't find the time and head space to make some worth while posts...
Ok so, I'm back after a very long break from this thread. I have made progress, the engine bay is looking good (apart from the engine) and I am now tackling the interior so I can get the wiring and dashboard back in and maybe get the Tuscan started, but, I've noticed all my embedded pics from google drive are not showing and a quick google shows a problem with google itself with no sign of a fix apart from changing the path for all the pics...Anyone having similar issues?
Thanks Beardyboy. Good to see your stunning Tamora today!
It appears to be a permanent change to Google drive policy and third party cookies etc that means I will have to redo every link to my photos. I'd prefer to do this before I continue to post updates so the thread makes sense.
I can use the same picture ID from google drive but the address has to change:
Old link
http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YST...
New link
https://drive.google.com/thumbnail?id=1YST_4RCSPat...
above link pasted between these [pic] [/pic]
I have fixed my first two post, only 29 to go...
Interior is almost complete and I am currently re-installing the dash/dashpod and have ignition and can turn the engine over, just need to complete the fuel pump/filter relocation to the boot so I should have the engine running this week...
It appears to be a permanent change to Google drive policy and third party cookies etc that means I will have to redo every link to my photos. I'd prefer to do this before I continue to post updates so the thread makes sense.
I can use the same picture ID from google drive but the address has to change:
Old link
http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YST...
New link
https://drive.google.com/thumbnail?id=1YST_4RCSPat...
above link pasted between these [pic] [/pic]
I have fixed my first two post, only 29 to go...
Interior is almost complete and I am currently re-installing the dash/dashpod and have ignition and can turn the engine over, just need to complete the fuel pump/filter relocation to the boot so I should have the engine running this week...
Edited by Modrich on Tuesday 26th March 22:56
So before I get stuck into the details of what I've been doing to my MK1 Tuscan, here's roughly how it looks at present...
The body repairs and re-spray are complete. Engine bay complete with new starter, power cabling re-routed behind the dash, Cerakoated tanks, new silicone hoses, chassis cleaned-up, steering rack raised, oil cooler raised slightly to clear steering rack, HVAC system inc. plenum & fan cleaned, spark plug cover vapour blasted with custom re-useable silicon foam seals, cooling fan motors & shrouds etc refurbed:
Front discs and AP pads cleaned and painted, new rear discs and pads
Interior retrim with alcantara almost complete, carpet only for new floor mats...
Pedal box in, refurbed dashpod with new perspex screen re-fitted...
Fuel tank refurb, fuel pump and filter relocation 99% complete, just waiting for the final pressure gauge parts...
A couple of questions:
1) I suspect the speedo stepper motor is not playing ball as when powering up it wants to go backwards. I initially thought this was because both wires had been shorting on the steering column, but I've sorted this and problem is still there, has the stepper motor failed?
2) I've tried testing the cooling system with a vacuum but it doesn't hold. I have fitted new thermostat and seal, there were no signs of leaks in the heater matrix etc. I don't want to fill with coolant for the first start-up to find I have to drain it again. Any ideas?
The body repairs and re-spray are complete. Engine bay complete with new starter, power cabling re-routed behind the dash, Cerakoated tanks, new silicone hoses, chassis cleaned-up, steering rack raised, oil cooler raised slightly to clear steering rack, HVAC system inc. plenum & fan cleaned, spark plug cover vapour blasted with custom re-useable silicon foam seals, cooling fan motors & shrouds etc refurbed:
Front discs and AP pads cleaned and painted, new rear discs and pads
Interior retrim with alcantara almost complete, carpet only for new floor mats...
Pedal box in, refurbed dashpod with new perspex screen re-fitted...
Fuel tank refurb, fuel pump and filter relocation 99% complete, just waiting for the final pressure gauge parts...
A couple of questions:
1) I suspect the speedo stepper motor is not playing ball as when powering up it wants to go backwards. I initially thought this was because both wires had been shorting on the steering column, but I've sorted this and problem is still there, has the stepper motor failed?
2) I've tried testing the cooling system with a vacuum but it doesn't hold. I have fitted new thermostat and seal, there were no signs of leaks in the heater matrix etc. I don't want to fill with coolant for the first start-up to find I have to drain it again. Any ideas?
Edited by Modrich on Friday 5th April 17:08
Engine bay parts from the platers/coaters...
Some parts were 'clear' zinc passivated and the aluminium tanks/oil cooler, spark plug cover and HVAC flaps were vapour blasted and clear Cerakoted. I wanted a satin finish rather than the polished look for the tanks...
Oil tank
Oil cooler
Coolant expansion tank and fuel rail end fitting
Coolant tank and power steering fluid tank bracket and engine block to oil cooler pipe
HVAC flaps
HVAC coolant feed pipe and bracket
Some parts were 'clear' zinc passivated and the aluminium tanks/oil cooler, spark plug cover and HVAC flaps were vapour blasted and clear Cerakoted. I wanted a satin finish rather than the polished look for the tanks...
Oil tank
Oil cooler
Coolant expansion tank and fuel rail end fitting
Coolant tank and power steering fluid tank bracket and engine block to oil cooler pipe
HVAC flaps
HVAC coolant feed pipe and bracket
Radiator and fans rebuild...
New fixings for the fan shrouds
Radiator cleaned-up (it's in great condition) and painted fan shrouds fitted
Rivnuts fitted so the fans can be easily removed
Cables to fans need a clean
...in vinegar
new waterproof connectors
Now the fan motors...
Brushes need a good clean...
Brush springs removed
Cleaning inside the brush housings
Stator nice and clean
Re-assembly...
Bearing runs nice and smooth
Brackets treated and painted with Hammerite
Waterproof connector for the fan
Stainless cap screws to make life easy for removal
Re-fitted
New fixings for the fan shrouds
Radiator cleaned-up (it's in great condition) and painted fan shrouds fitted
Rivnuts fitted so the fans can be easily removed
Cables to fans need a clean
...in vinegar
new waterproof connectors
Now the fan motors...
Brushes need a good clean...
Brush springs removed
Cleaning inside the brush housings
Stator nice and clean
Re-assembly...
Bearing runs nice and smooth
Brackets treated and painted with Hammerite
Waterproof connector for the fan
Stainless cap screws to make life easy for removal
Re-fitted
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