Discussion
Well, when the camshaft came into 2 pieces, if the cylinderhead and valves are ok (propably they are damaged,because when the camshaft broke , some valves were still "working" so with the sudden stop of the valves, the piston will damaged them.So they have fitted also new valves and new "valve bases")
then it needs to be cool with the revs(to running in as you say.) ,for the first 1000 miles!
Also change the engine oil after 1000 and the oil filter
because the oilfilter keeps all the "dirt" from the oil that circulates inside the engine.
You should change the oil filter every time you go for an oil change though
ByronTVR
>> Edited by ByronTVR on Thursday 14th November 18:25
then it needs to be cool with the revs(to running in as you say.) ,for the first 1000 miles!
Also change the engine oil after 1000 and the oil filter
because the oilfilter keeps all the "dirt" from the oil that circulates inside the engine. You should change the oil filter every time you go for an oil change though
ByronTVR
>> Edited by ByronTVR on Thursday 14th November 18:25
A thought just came up on my mind now,... but it's too late mate. You could put a better camshaft on the speedsix to have a better torque and a little increase of power with a "piper" or "kent" cams "fast road" ones 
But since you are under warranty!...no question about it.It goes like hell even with the "factory ones" hehehe
ByronTVR
But since you are under warranty!...no question about it.It goes like hell even with the "factory ones" hehehe
ByronTVR
plotloss said: Thanks Rev, thing is that TVR Power didnt tell my dealers what they had done, so my dealers advised me to run it in again.
However, if it was just a camshaft issue then I could have done it more harm than good by taking it easy. Is this right?
Matt.
Matt - why don't you just ring Dom at TVR Power and get it straight from the horse's mouth (not that I am calling Dom a horse. Certainly not when he's got my Griff in a vulnerable position up on a ramp as I type!). Would be great it you could revert to normal driving.....
Camshafts do not need running in.
On the contrary, I understand that running in a new camshaft is absolutely critica. The heavier the springs are (i.e. the more aggressive the cam profile is), the more important it is to run it in. Running in consists of keeping the revs up (i.e. 2-3000 rpm) for the first few minutes (although longer is better). For the cam I was asking about at the time (a very aggressive short duration cam) I was told to run it in for an absolute minimum of six minutes, and also told not to stop the engine under any circumstances during that time (even if there were major oil/water/petrol leaks), because switching off would require the engine to be stripped down again to have the cam and followers replaced.
I understand that if you fit a new cam and the engine won't start straight away, you can easily knacker the cam by the time the engine finally catches. This is something that the typical owner probably wouldn't know or need to worry about, but the engineer who starts the engine for the first time definitely should know. (I know of one mechanic who assumed that pre-greasing was enough and routinely didn't run cams in, who has had some very unhappy customers as a result. Not somebody who has ever worked on any of my cars though, or is ever likely to.)
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
YAHOO said: Yes it is dealers fault, most of the dealers mechanics have never had training at the factory plus the dealers dont have the time to do the tappets so they just send the car out.
If the car is a jan 2001 car on, and been run in well and valves checked at 1000mile service it should not need done or checked till its 12000 service. As for finger followers its just your luck.Also running mobil 1 oil is a big no no,your just asking for trouble.
Do you really have a clue what you are talking about yahoo?
whitey said: YAHOO, can you explain why you should not use Mobil 1 when TVR did recommend it ? Do you find your engine uses less oil with Castrol R ? Do Dreadnought recommend it?
How many miles are on your engine ? When have you had the valves checked? How much oil does it use ?
Questions Questions
Cheers
Whitey
Catrol R is a vegetable oil .. do NOT use this .. you probably are talking about castrol RS, something completely different ...
GreenV8S said:
Camshafts do not need running in.
On the contrary, I understand that running in a new camshaft is absolutely critical. The heavier the springs are (i.e. the more aggressive the cam profile is), the more important it is to run it in. Running in consists of keeping the revs up (i.e. 2-3000 rpm) for the first few minutes (although longer is better).
Sorry - by running in I meant as you would with a new engine (i.e. low revs, don't place it under load rtc) - when in fact in needs highish revs immediately to 'run it in'. Sorry for any confusion - we're singing from the same hymn sheet!
With a V8 there is a partial strip and rebuild - e.g new followers and rockers checked - I don't know about the Sp6. I certainly didn't need to drive the car any differently.
Greenv8s - my glib statement on cams not needing running in - well I agree with you !
For the customer - you should not really need to
run in a cam but from a mechanics point of view
well cam pre lube then 3000 rev min and no tick over
for quite a while is what I have always sworn by...
but after say 3 ~ 5 mins the cam & followers should
be pretty intemate with each other and as both are
pretty hard - about 55 rockwell; if I remember correctly; means that there should be on significant
bedding in.
Hope all is well with the repaired engine speed6 - perhaps we will get to see it at the Surrey CC meetin
next Wednesday !
For the customer - you should not really need to
run in a cam but from a mechanics point of view
well cam pre lube then 3000 rev min and no tick over
for quite a while is what I have always sworn by...
but after say 3 ~ 5 mins the cam & followers should
be pretty intemate with each other and as both are
pretty hard - about 55 rockwell; if I remember correctly; means that there should be on significant
bedding in.
Hope all is well with the repaired engine speed6 - perhaps we will get to see it at the Surrey CC meetin
next Wednesday !
joospeed said:
whitey said: YAHOO, can you explain why you should not use Mobil 1 when TVR did recommend it ? Do you find your engine uses less oil with Castrol R ? Do Dreadnought recommend it?
How many miles are on your engine ? When have you had the valves checked? How much oil does it use ?
Questions Questions
Cheers
Whitey
Catrol R is a vegetable oil .. do NOT use this .. you probably are talking about castrol RS, something completely different ...
Hence why I asked some plain questions to YAHOO about his comments. The last thing I'm going to do is not adhere to the factory's servicing advice with the Speed 6 engine. Mine is on 8000 miles(re-built) and just had valves checked...and not using much oil.
Fingers crossed
Ummm Castrol R ... which in my recollection was an oil used by the racing fraternity in the late 50's early 60's Yes? Used to smell loverly once it was hot. Ummm takes me back - all those racing engines burning Castrol R.
joospeed said:
whitey said: YAHOO, can you explain why you should not use Mobil 1 when TVR did recommend it ? Do you find your engine uses less oil with Castrol R ? Do Dreadnought recommend it?
How many miles are on your engine ? When have you had the valves checked? How much oil does it use ?
Questions Questions
Cheers
Whitey
Catrol R is a vegetable oil .. do NOT use this .. you probably are talking about castrol RS, something completely different ...
Rich... Have anyone used "Motul" Oils?
Something like 300V 15W-50 Competition(Full synthetic) for their TVR engines?
If you are interested check:
www.motul.com
The Competition oils are for many uses, see their article about.
Joolz waiting to hear more about Castrol RS and not R anymmore
ByronTVR
>> Edited by ByronTVR on Friday 15th November 20:17
Something like 300V 15W-50 Competition(Full synthetic) for their TVR engines?
If you are interested check:
www.motul.com
The Competition oils are for many uses, see their article about.
Joolz waiting to hear more about Castrol RS
and not R anymmore ByronTVR
>> Edited by ByronTVR on Friday 15th November 20:17
Your answer is 500ml every 2500 miles under hard driving,and tappets were done at 1000 mile service like they should be.
The first RR Tuscan did 13000miles and this one has done nearly 7000 .
As for oil castrol RS and mag/t are the only ones in my view to use, but i do use Mobil 1 motor sport 15w/50 in the challange car as it is a good oil at high temp and is tried and tested.
As a friend at the factory said to me once, mobil 1 is best oil you can use in your lawnmower!
And Dreadnought TVR do recomend Castrol RS/MAGT oils, and they dont have problems with speed six engines ever, so just shows you some dealers are ok and some are great.
And yes Joolz i know more than most THANKYOU.
The first RR Tuscan did 13000miles and this one has done nearly 7000 .
As for oil castrol RS and mag/t are the only ones in my view to use, but i do use Mobil 1 motor sport 15w/50 in the challange car as it is a good oil at high temp and is tried and tested.
As a friend at the factory said to me once, mobil 1 is best oil you can use in your lawnmower!
And Dreadnought TVR do recomend Castrol RS/MAGT oils, and they dont have problems with speed six engines ever, so just shows you some dealers are ok and some are great.
And yes Joolz i know more than most THANKYOU.
YAHOO said: Your answer is 500ml every 2500 miles under hard driving,and tappets were done at 1000 mile service like they should be.
The first RR Tuscan did 13000miles and this one has done nearly 7000 .
As for oil castrol RS and mag/t are the only ones in my view to use, but i do use Mobil 1 motor sport 15w/50 in the challange car as it is a good oil at high temp and is tried and tested.
As a friend at the factory said to me once, mobil 1 is best oil you can use in your lawnmower!
And Dreadnought TVR do recomend Castrol RS/MAGT oils, and they dont have problems with speed six engines ever, so just shows you some dealers are ok and some are great.
And yes Joolz i know more than most THANKYOU.
I would be very interested in how dreadnought set their valves , maybe the factory should ring them since they must know something the rest of us don't, including john R in engine development. Now Dreadnought are very good judging by Claire's responses to questions and other replies about them I've heard / read - BUT there are too many engines going for rebuild for it just to be a dealer service issue, or indeed an owner-driving issue. I've seen a newly built engine last 11 days. I've seen finger followers snap .. a design / material or loading issue. I've seen cams destroyed through an engine built with no lubrication to the top end (that rebuilt engine lasted all of one day). I've heard of cars being delivered to dealers, barely getting off the transporter before going back to the factory. You can't tell me that these are dealer servicing issues also. If your dealer has never sent an engine or car back to the factory then they are very very fortunate indeed. Perhaps you could tell us how many engines you've worked on exactly and where this wealth of knowledge comes from? Any info greatly appreciated. many thanks.
Joolz .. standing up for tvr dealers everywhere ..!
Is there an organisation or company that can evaluate an engine and give recommendations on it's reliabilty.
Sort of like an independant QA or R&D department?
Would love to hear what they have to say about the Speed 6 engine.
From what I have read it is a well designed engine, but not developed with enough manufacturing redundancy. ie, if they built right (good materials, craftsmanship etc.) they are bloody good, but one wrong finger follower (eg) and they go...
I'm not dissing TVR or John Ravenscroft and the gang but maybe if a little more cash could be injected into a Speed 6 v.2?
Sort of like an independant QA or R&D department?
Would love to hear what they have to say about the Speed 6 engine.
From what I have read it is a well designed engine, but not developed with enough manufacturing redundancy. ie, if they built right (good materials, craftsmanship etc.) they are bloody good, but one wrong finger follower (eg) and they go...
I'm not dissing TVR or John Ravenscroft and the gang but maybe if a little more cash could be injected into a Speed 6 v.2?
In the Tuscan hand book (came with new car last month) it says....
Mobil Delvac SAE 10w30 ( first 1000 miles )
Mobil Super 15w40 ( 1k - 6k miles )
Mobil 1 0w40 ( 6k onwards )
Reading the previous posts, this seems to be wrong (after 6k anyway), and Castrol RS seems to be the way to go. Although Castrol RS is 0w40 too, so isn't that the same as Mobil 1 0w40?
Bur what also came with the hand book was a Carlube leaflet explaining that Carlube Triple R 10w40 Semi synthetic was for 0k - 6k, and Carlube Triple R 0w40 fully synthetic after that?
Surely all the 0w40's are the same? ie too thin? I don't know. If the oil needed topping up I wouldn't know at any point what to put in it.
I think it instructed using the same oils in the Griffith 500 handbook (ie Mobil oils). But after the engine had to be rebuilt by TVR power in Coventry, Paul or maybe Don Trickett there reckoned Mobil 1 was definately NOT the oil to use, but something like Magnatec or something. Can't remember now. But then I'm sure the local dealer recommended Castrol RS.
God knows???? Bloody confused now.
Finally, I find it very difficult pulling away from standstill in the Tuscan (S). Especially hill starts. The revs fly up that quick when pressing the accelerator that it is difficult to get revs right etc.. It feels (bearing in mind still running in at 500 miles) like it might do 0-60 in 3.9, but it takes me a couple of seconds to get it off the line at all!!! Are they all like this, or am I just a cr*p driver?
Cheers, TVR5
Hi all,
Thought it was about time I contributed something to this thread since our dealership has been mentioned a few times, and also there seems to be a bit of confusion over which engine oil to use.
First though a bit about myself and my TVR background.
I have been working for Dreadnought TVR for over 5 years and at present have the job title 'Service Manager' Our dealership is little known, probably due to the fact that we are only a Service Dealer for TVR. We therefore 'need' to know the cars inside out, and do this by visiting the factory at least twice a year for training.
This brings me on to the Speedsix engine. Right at the start of its life this engine was known for its problems due to various components within the engine not being able to withstand the high stresses. Worn finger followers etc..
I believe TVR cured that problem, which makes me curious why there are still engines coming back with problems.
We service and repair a lot of speed six engined cars, and to this date we have only ever sent back one engine for rebuilding. This was due to the owner running the car to destruction!
As for setting the valve clearances, should be done at 1000 miles then every 12000 after that. Quite a time consuming job, but is critical in order to keep your car running!
Engine oil,When servicing cars we always use Castrol Magnatec for a number of reasons.
1. Mobil 1 is really too thin an oil for this engine. When hot it is like water! You will find the car uses a lot more oil as well.
2. Castrol Mag protects the engine much better, as its thicker and also helps stop engine wear.
Most engine wear happens when you first start your car, as it takes time for the oil to get round the whole of the engine. Magnatec because it is thicker tends to cling to components such as camshafts etc.. so there is always oil at the top of the engine.
Mobil 1 tends to run back down into the bottom of the engine more quickly because it is thinner.
By all means you can use Castrol RS, but it is more expensive and is more a racing oil.(But the best!)
Also if you want to stick to Mobil, try the thicker version, Mobil 1 Motorsport.
Hope I have cleared up a few confused faces with this information.
Claire
P.S Joolz, lay off YAHOO a bit eh, he does know his stuff. Rebuilt more engines than me in his time!
Thought it was about time I contributed something to this thread since our dealership has been mentioned a few times, and also there seems to be a bit of confusion over which engine oil to use.
First though a bit about myself and my TVR background.
I have been working for Dreadnought TVR for over 5 years and at present have the job title 'Service Manager' Our dealership is little known, probably due to the fact that we are only a Service Dealer for TVR. We therefore 'need' to know the cars inside out, and do this by visiting the factory at least twice a year for training.
This brings me on to the Speedsix engine. Right at the start of its life this engine was known for its problems due to various components within the engine not being able to withstand the high stresses. Worn finger followers etc..
I believe TVR cured that problem, which makes me curious why there are still engines coming back with problems.
We service and repair a lot of speed six engined cars, and to this date we have only ever sent back one engine for rebuilding. This was due to the owner running the car to destruction!
As for setting the valve clearances, should be done at 1000 miles then every 12000 after that. Quite a time consuming job, but is critical in order to keep your car running!
Engine oil,When servicing cars we always use Castrol Magnatec for a number of reasons.
1. Mobil 1 is really too thin an oil for this engine. When hot it is like water! You will find the car uses a lot more oil as well.
2. Castrol Mag protects the engine much better, as its thicker and also helps stop engine wear.
Most engine wear happens when you first start your car, as it takes time for the oil to get round the whole of the engine. Magnatec because it is thicker tends to cling to components such as camshafts etc.. so there is always oil at the top of the engine.
Mobil 1 tends to run back down into the bottom of the engine more quickly because it is thinner.
By all means you can use Castrol RS, but it is more expensive and is more a racing oil.(But the best!)
Also if you want to stick to Mobil, try the thicker version, Mobil 1 Motorsport.
Hope I have cleared up a few confused faces with this information.
Claire
P.S Joolz, lay off YAHOO a bit eh, he does know his stuff. Rebuilt more engines than me in his time!
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