My 5th Sd1 - have I got a disease?
Discussion
Well, after 3 years, I've only gone and done it again 
The title of the thread should be changed to 6th. 
After almost 3 years of having fun in the Chimaera, its time I grew old more gracefully. So, back to what I know best - another SD1. This time its a Vitesse auto (ideal for an old man) so has lots of chrome compared to the South African car. Solvol autosol ready and waiting.
I will be keeping this car (wife has said so) and aim to do the NC500 maybe next year in it. Lots of jobs to do and looking forward to getting stuck in. Already ordered some parts so Rimmer Bros will be raking it in. And I don't even pick it up till the weekend......
Oh, and its another black one
The title of the thread should be changed to 6th. After almost 3 years of having fun in the Chimaera, its time I grew old more gracefully. So, back to what I know best - another SD1. This time its a Vitesse auto (ideal for an old man) so has lots of chrome compared to the South African car. Solvol autosol ready and waiting.
I will be keeping this car (wife has said so) and aim to do the NC500 maybe next year in it. Lots of jobs to do and looking forward to getting stuck in. Already ordered some parts so Rimmer Bros will be raking it in. And I don't even pick it up till the weekend......
Oh, and its another black one
Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 10th October 00:51
Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 10th October 13:18
So, a month of ownership and an update on progress so far. The engine number was originally for a 3.9 in a TVR supplied by V8D.
The usual locations for oil leaks including the valley gasket and sump plug. The GM auto-box sump seal was also leaking as was the power steering pump.
So far removed the radiator and having it re-cored due to a slight weep. Pump is currently being refurbed.
Noticed movement of the crank pulley when removing the pump belt. The pulley bolt was loose. Removed it, cleaned and refitted with Loctite.
While doing the auto-box sump seal replaced the filter and fitted a new gear lever bush to give a precise movement. Oil was looking tired so all drained and new filled. The speedo only worked very occasionally so a new transducer has been fitted.
The exhaust manifolds looked shabby so removed, cleaned and sprayed with Rustoleum silver. New stainless flanged serrated nuts in place of the original tired brass ones. New gaskets too. New exhaust hangers so it doesn't bang now over potholes.
Alternator removed and cleaned. The mounting bracket removed and sprayed with Rustoleum black (looks like a deep grey) hammered finish. One engine mounting was cracked so both replaced.
The aircon compressor and 2 pipes were missing so decided to remove the rest of the system. Hopefully the sunroof will keep us reasonably comfortable in the searing UK weather.
With the radiator out and the front spoiler and under-tray removed, have treated the surface rust across the front of the car. The anti-roll bar was looking scruffy, so removed, cleaned up and painted. The bushes are poly ones and in good condition so being reused.
Driver's window jumped out when lowering so found one of the locating runners in the glass channel had completely corroded away. These channels are no longer available so ordered an early Discovery one. It is the same length, the only difference being the width of the runners. A few minutes of fettling with hammer and grips and all is now good.
After picking up the car I went straight to the petrol station as the fuel gauge was highly inaccurate. The car locked itself on the forecourt but managed to force the window down and get in. After a lot of effort found that the lock barrel had been wrongly fitted which required a rebuild as no longer available. That kept me busy for a while. A new sender unit fitted which has cured the 'have I got enough petrol' problem.
The driver's side rear electric window did not work. Traced to the installation of the remote central locking receiver where the installer had cut the earth wire and left it under the carpet by the accelerator pedal. Cheap fix.
That's about it for this update. Need to get the car off the axle stands as the driveway is being done in a week's time. Hope to remove the front suspension next - Gaz adjustable - to clean up, repaint and make the 30mm lowering springs look presentable.
The usual locations for oil leaks including the valley gasket and sump plug. The GM auto-box sump seal was also leaking as was the power steering pump.
So far removed the radiator and having it re-cored due to a slight weep. Pump is currently being refurbed.
Noticed movement of the crank pulley when removing the pump belt. The pulley bolt was loose. Removed it, cleaned and refitted with Loctite.
While doing the auto-box sump seal replaced the filter and fitted a new gear lever bush to give a precise movement. Oil was looking tired so all drained and new filled. The speedo only worked very occasionally so a new transducer has been fitted.
The exhaust manifolds looked shabby so removed, cleaned and sprayed with Rustoleum silver. New stainless flanged serrated nuts in place of the original tired brass ones. New gaskets too. New exhaust hangers so it doesn't bang now over potholes.
Alternator removed and cleaned. The mounting bracket removed and sprayed with Rustoleum black (looks like a deep grey) hammered finish. One engine mounting was cracked so both replaced.
The aircon compressor and 2 pipes were missing so decided to remove the rest of the system. Hopefully the sunroof will keep us reasonably comfortable in the searing UK weather.
With the radiator out and the front spoiler and under-tray removed, have treated the surface rust across the front of the car. The anti-roll bar was looking scruffy, so removed, cleaned up and painted. The bushes are poly ones and in good condition so being reused.
Driver's window jumped out when lowering so found one of the locating runners in the glass channel had completely corroded away. These channels are no longer available so ordered an early Discovery one. It is the same length, the only difference being the width of the runners. A few minutes of fettling with hammer and grips and all is now good.
After picking up the car I went straight to the petrol station as the fuel gauge was highly inaccurate. The car locked itself on the forecourt but managed to force the window down and get in. After a lot of effort found that the lock barrel had been wrongly fitted which required a rebuild as no longer available. That kept me busy for a while. A new sender unit fitted which has cured the 'have I got enough petrol' problem.
The driver's side rear electric window did not work. Traced to the installation of the remote central locking receiver where the installer had cut the earth wire and left it under the carpet by the accelerator pedal. Cheap fix.
That's about it for this update. Need to get the car off the axle stands as the driveway is being done in a week's time. Hope to remove the front suspension next - Gaz adjustable - to clean up, repaint and make the 30mm lowering springs look presentable.
Keep up the good work.
Hope you can enjoy it for many miles once finished.
TVR lump, so you still have a bit of a TVR then
Have a TVR 350i in standard tune to have a mighty blast to the past from time to time.
Not well known over here, but more and more people stop and stare. Think mainly because of the noise and they don't know what it is.....
Our SD1 not used a lot, as the son had to have a daily driver for large mileage.
It is taken out from time to time and it is a joy to drive, even with just the 2300 engine.
If the six goes pop, the replacement RV8 is already on standby in the garage
My son started looking at Vitesses, but convinced him that this solid body can be 'converted' to one and saving a few euro's and welding in the process.
Rob
Hope you can enjoy it for many miles once finished.
TVR lump, so you still have a bit of a TVR then
Have a TVR 350i in standard tune to have a mighty blast to the past from time to time.
Not well known over here, but more and more people stop and stare. Think mainly because of the noise and they don't know what it is.....
Our SD1 not used a lot, as the son had to have a daily driver for large mileage.
It is taken out from time to time and it is a joy to drive, even with just the 2300 engine.
If the six goes pop, the replacement RV8 is already on standby in the garage
My son started looking at Vitesses, but convinced him that this solid body can be 'converted' to one and saving a few euro's and welding in the process.
Rob
Agree with your logic about the engine. My first was a 2.6 manual and I loved that car. Something about a straight 6 engine 
I did't intend getting a Vitesse as I wanted another 2.6 but impatience got the better of me
My aim is to do the North Coast 500 in it next summer. Fingers crossed.......
I did't intend getting a Vitesse as I wanted another 2.6 but impatience got the better of me My aim is to do the North Coast 500 in it next summer. Fingers crossed.......
Boosted LS1 said:
[quote=N7GTX
My aim is to do the North Coast 500 in it next summer. Fingers crossed.......
That's my aim to, hopefully in my TR.My aim is to do the North Coast 500 in it next summer. Fingers crossed.......
So, power steering pump refurbed and back in. Offside front strut off, dismantled, cleaned and painted. Spring in good order so refreshed and strut insert in good nick too. Waiting for a new gaiter for the strut as it was torn, as a previous numpty fitted it all upside down. Wheel bearings cleaned of old grease and re-lubed.
2 steps forward and one back - took the radiator for re-coring and they threw the sides away before the new one arrived without, you've guessed, the side rails. After some measuring they've made it again.
Anti-roll bar refitted after its clean and repaint - using Rustoleum - and new track rod ends and steering gaiters - Bailcast - fitted too.
Have to get the car off the stands as the driveway is being done on Monday so work will stop for a week.
Wheel bearings cleaned of old grease and re-lubed.2 steps forward and one back - took the radiator for re-coring and they threw the sides away before the new one arrived without, you've guessed, the side rails. After some measuring they've made it again.
Anti-roll bar refitted after its clean and repaint - using Rustoleum - and new track rod ends and steering gaiters - Bailcast - fitted too.
Have to get the car off the stands as the driveway is being done on Monday so work will stop for a week.
Driveway all now done so car back on axle stands. Jacked up and got some pink fluid dripping down. The refurbished power steering pump is leaking quite badly from the gland seal. Not impressed with the local company so taken off and now back with them to fix properly.
The new rad seems to be okay and have checked with Kenlowe who say the fans were originally designed to be 'push type'. So, with the aircon condenser long gone, lots of usable room in front of the rad to make up a support bracket to fit them to. Started the engine and left the multimeter connected to the fan wiring and watched the temp. Just before an indicated 100c the voltage changed from 0v to battery voltage so that side is looking good.
Today, took the nearside front strut off, stripped it down and made a start on cleaning it all up. As per the offside, the gaiter upper collar was on top of the spring upper so no use to anyone. Too cold to spray so will wait till the weekend. Fitted a new steering rack gaiter - Bailcast neoprene type for long life - and a new track rod end.
The new rad seems to be okay and have checked with Kenlowe who say the fans were originally designed to be 'push type'. So, with the aircon condenser long gone, lots of usable room in front of the rad to make up a support bracket to fit them to. Started the engine and left the multimeter connected to the fan wiring and watched the temp. Just before an indicated 100c the voltage changed from 0v to battery voltage so that side is looking good.
Today, took the nearside front strut off, stripped it down and made a start on cleaning it all up. As per the offside, the gaiter upper collar was on top of the spring upper so no use to anyone. Too cold to spray so will wait till the weekend. Fitted a new steering rack gaiter - Bailcast neoprene type for long life - and a new track rod end.
Been making some progress on the old girl. Drained the auto box so I could replace the sump gasket which had a small leak. Refilled and turned the key to start and nothing happening. 
Suspected inhibitor switch on the gearbox as 0v at the starter motor. Access is difficult with the exhaust still on but managed to remove it and found the cover was separating from the body. Cleaned up, secured and refitted and 12v once more at the starter solenoid. Phew - no longer available.
Nearside strut reassembled and refitted so front suspension completely overhauled. As she has Jag V12 front discs and calipers had to trim a bit from the brand new back plates to allow fitting.
Made a start on sorting the door locks/handles etc. The passenger side rear door childproof lock mechanism was missing. Had a spare rod from a kit for a front door so cut it to size, tapped a tiny M4 thread and fitted the little white plastic button and grommet. The driver's side rear door handle was missing the external gasket so fitted that. A fiddly job with cold fingers.
Suspected inhibitor switch on the gearbox as 0v at the starter motor. Access is difficult with the exhaust still on but managed to remove it and found the cover was separating from the body. Cleaned up, secured and refitted and 12v once more at the starter solenoid. Phew - no longer available.
Nearside strut reassembled and refitted so front suspension completely overhauled. As she has Jag V12 front discs and calipers had to trim a bit from the brand new back plates to allow fitting.
Made a start on sorting the door locks/handles etc. The passenger side rear door childproof lock mechanism was missing. Had a spare rod from a kit for a front door so cut it to size, tapped a tiny M4 thread and fitted the little white plastic button and grommet. The driver's side rear door handle was missing the external gasket so fitted that. A fiddly job with cold fingers.
More progress this week. Door cards all refitted only to find one of the door window switches dodgy. Rimmer Bros sell them at £17 each but also sell a set of 7 for the whole car for £13 - bargain.
Wiring to the auto box is cracked and brittle so new harness only to find connectors the wrong type. Spent an hour fitting the old ones to the new part. Hopefully that goes back on tomorrow.
Made a start on the rear suspension. Even after 40 years, all the bolts into captive nuts on the chassis came out without a fight. Removed all of the Watts linkage including the mounting brackets and binned the lot. All new parts ready to fit. Shockers removed, cleaned and greased up to prolong their life but plenty resistance in them and no leaks. Springs removed, wire brushed and painted with that lovely hammered finish Rustoleum.
The car must have been stood for a while as the back axle has a lot of surface rust. So, next job is to clean it all off and also the fuel tank. Have got some epoxy paint to protect it from further rust. Forecast is dry and to warm up so hoping to progress.
Wiring to the auto box is cracked and brittle so new harness only to find connectors the wrong type. Spent an hour fitting the old ones to the new part. Hopefully that goes back on tomorrow.
Made a start on the rear suspension. Even after 40 years, all the bolts into captive nuts on the chassis came out without a fight. Removed all of the Watts linkage including the mounting brackets and binned the lot. All new parts ready to fit. Shockers removed, cleaned and greased up to prolong their life but plenty resistance in them and no leaks. Springs removed, wire brushed and painted with that lovely hammered finish Rustoleum.
The car must have been stood for a while as the back axle has a lot of surface rust. So, next job is to clean it all off and also the fuel tank. Have got some epoxy paint to protect it from further rust. Forecast is dry and to warm up so hoping to progress.
Nice to read about the progress. And you can get nearly all parts of the SD1, even better now then 20 years ago. Ok mark1 can still be difficult, but mark2 parts can be used (replaced master cylinder as after an overhaul it was still bad). But rimmers buying a job-lot in India did a great thing and prices are more reasonable. Sometime though parts are from the eighties and quality is not ok, luckily an exception. And parts are cheaper as well, so think it is costing less money to run an SD1now then back when i got the 2300S in 1995. Except if you need welding, but I do that myself and the SD1 only needed two small patches on the outer sills. Ours has been rustproofed old fashioned way when new and no rust except for small areas, but never structural.
My son has some parts he would like to install (brake upgrade, rear bumper as this one is dented) and it is still on the to do list a year after getting the parts.....
We fixed the headlining, but it is dropping again. Thought we used the strongest glue available, but need to redo it.
So let next years summer come and in just a few days the spare parts can be put on and the Rover is again a stage better and thus aging well.
Keep the updates coming and hopefully by next summer you can enjoy it on the road.
Rob
My son has some parts he would like to install (brake upgrade, rear bumper as this one is dented) and it is still on the to do list a year after getting the parts.....
We fixed the headlining, but it is dropping again. Thought we used the strongest glue available, but need to redo it.
So let next years summer come and in just a few days the spare parts can be put on and the Rover is again a stage better and thus aging well.
Keep the updates coming and hopefully by next summer you can enjoy it on the road.
Rob
Wow, it was a bit parky this morning. The driveway is in shade until early afternoon so out with the thick carpet to lay on.
First job was to fit the gearbox wiring harness that now has new wire with the old connectors so no more cracked/brittle stuff to fail. The inhibitor switch was disintegrating so laid a layer of Araldite on it which has given it a nice tough finish so hopefully that will last a few years.
Removed the old handbrake cable and fettled the compensator bracket which was well rusted. Rimmers price for the 2 small steel parts alone is a whopping £29+p&p so cleaned it all up and given a coat of Rustoleum. So set about the rear axle giving it a hard wire brush to remove rust/dirt. Then the fuel tank so I'd forgotten about the cold by now. Gave the tank a quick coat of Zinc182 until the weather warms up (alledgedly) next week when I can apply the black 2 part epoxy paint.
First job was to fit the gearbox wiring harness that now has new wire with the old connectors so no more cracked/brittle stuff to fail. The inhibitor switch was disintegrating so laid a layer of Araldite on it which has given it a nice tough finish so hopefully that will last a few years.
Removed the old handbrake cable and fettled the compensator bracket which was well rusted. Rimmers price for the 2 small steel parts alone is a whopping £29+p&p so cleaned it all up and given a coat of Rustoleum. So set about the rear axle giving it a hard wire brush to remove rust/dirt. Then the fuel tank so I'd forgotten about the cold by now. Gave the tank a quick coat of Zinc182 until the weather warms up (alledgedly) next week when I can apply the black 2 part epoxy paint.
Used the Rustbuster epoxy on the petrol tank and the back axle. Never used it before so will compare to other treatments in time. Removed the propshaft and checked for play and all good. Replaced the gearbox output shaft seal so fingers crossed, no more drips. Must remember to top the box up when the Dexron 2D comes tomorrow. Drained then refilled the back axle with EP90.
New handbrake cable and Watts linkage all greased up ready to go on tomorrow. Brake pipes cleaned and given a covering of grease.
Removed the last remnants of the cruise control which did not work with several parts missing. That tidied up the engine bay a bit. Then fitted NGK BPR6EIX plugs so no need to change them for 40,000 miles.
New 15" steering wheel from Rimmers - simple black 3 spoke vinyl covered one to match the black paintwork - fitted. Much better as it gives more thigh room. Took the top of the dash off to see what surprises there might be. The speedo works intermittently and having already tested the speed transducer noticed the wiring had been chopped at some time behind the dash. Fingers crossed it is a bad connection as the speedo is no longer available. But I always use a satnav one in my cars anyway.
Finally, fitted a new water temperature sender with the correct colour code as the one that was in was over reading badly.
And so to bed......
New handbrake cable and Watts linkage all greased up ready to go on tomorrow. Brake pipes cleaned and given a covering of grease.
Removed the last remnants of the cruise control which did not work with several parts missing. That tidied up the engine bay a bit. Then fitted NGK BPR6EIX plugs so no need to change them for 40,000 miles.
New 15" steering wheel from Rimmers - simple black 3 spoke vinyl covered one to match the black paintwork - fitted. Much better as it gives more thigh room. Took the top of the dash off to see what surprises there might be. The speedo works intermittently and having already tested the speed transducer noticed the wiring had been chopped at some time behind the dash. Fingers crossed it is a bad connection as the speedo is no longer available. But I always use a satnav one in my cars anyway.
Finally, fitted a new water temperature sender with the correct colour code as the one that was in was over reading badly.
And so to bed......
She's back on the ground. Fitted the new handbrake cable and then fitted the all new Watts linkage. Lots of grease just in case I ever need to remove something later. The refurbed springs reinstalled, wheels back on and torqued up. New Lucas battery fitted to look period correct. Fired her up, adjusted gearbox level then drove up and down the driveway to check the brakes, steering and suspension. Left her running to check the new fans were working okay. Just as well as I had ordered push type but these were pulling the air. Quick reverse of polarity (straight type blades so okay to do this) and were cycling on and off.
|https://thumbsnap.com/chsMLCxB[/url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/cQBifNqc[/url]
Need to do some jobs on the Chimaera so she'll be parked up for a few days.
|https://thumbsnap.com/chsMLCxB[/url]|https://thumbsnap.com/cQBifNqc[/url]Need to do some jobs on the Chimaera so she'll be parked up for a few days.
Edited by N7GTX on Thursday 21st December 14:49
Edited by N7GTX on Thursday 21st December 14:50
Happy New Year to SD1 fans! 
Finally got the TVR off the driveway so back on with the project. Fitted a new Lucas battery and it went flat overnight
Tried to remember what I'd been testing so removed the fuses from the rear fuse box. With the battery recharged got a 4.2 amp discharge when refitting the heated rear screen fuse. More investigations when it stops raining.
Fitted a new tailgate seal and then dismantled part of the dash. The water temp gauge is inaccurate as is the oil pressure gauge so got a new unit for £26 from Rimmers. The set is for a 6 cylinder car so did some swapping around as the computer is a different set up.
Rain stopped play
Finally got the TVR off the driveway so back on with the project. Fitted a new Lucas battery and it went flat overnight
Tried to remember what I'd been testing so removed the fuses from the rear fuse box. With the battery recharged got a 4.2 amp discharge when refitting the heated rear screen fuse. More investigations when it stops raining.Fitted a new tailgate seal and then dismantled part of the dash. The water temp gauge is inaccurate as is the oil pressure gauge so got a new unit for £26 from Rimmers. The set is for a 6 cylinder car so did some swapping around as the computer is a different set up.
Rain stopped play
So, after 40 days and nights of rain, finally got back on with the car. Removed the rear fuse box and did some more testing. Turns out the rear wiper unit was causing the drain so fitted a new one. Got a copy of the correct fuse ratings for the rear compartment fusebox and fitted the correct ones. Someone had fitted 25 amp in them all except the wiper which had a 30 amp, presumably when the motor was failing.
New wiper motor works perfectly and at £25 is a nice cheap fix. Forecast is for dry weather so hoping to get the tailgate all finished next.
New wiper motor works perfectly and at £25 is a nice cheap fix. Forecast is for dry weather so hoping to get the tailgate all finished next.
Dry and cold so decided to sort out the rear screen heater which does not work. It looks like a new piece of loom has been fitted in the rear corner at some time. Anyway, found a black plastic box labelled Radio Aerial Isolation Unit (?) bolted to the underside of the tailgate near the latch. The output from the relay disappears into this box of tricks and there is an aerial connector too. While testing the circuit the switch was working okay but no warning light on the dash. Discovered that the relay socket had been wired back to front - very odd. Quick check and there is now power to the warning light and to the wire that connects to the Isolation Unit. This will now be fitted to the heated rear window directly and I'll use the existing earth on the other side.
New relay on order and the box of tricks removed completely. Took it apart and found it to be totally corroded and knackered (technical term) so binned it.
Hopefully get this completed this week.
New relay on order and the box of tricks removed completely. Took it apart and found it to be totally corroded and knackered (technical term) so binned it.
Hopefully get this completed this week.
Slow progress this week. Caught the flu bug so been in bed a lot. Got bored with daytime telly and made an effort to do a bit on the old girl. Rewired the relay correctly and then found the earth wire from the switch was no longer earthing - probably connected to the removal of aircon parts as there is a common earth point. Made up a short earth lead behind the dash and then made up new leads to the window heater terminals. All connected and all good.
Hope to locate the leak point around the tailgate tomorrow.
Hope to locate the leak point around the tailgate tomorrow.
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